Night Vision Super Yoter C - Any Experience Yet?
- Thread starter rlsmith1
- Start date
Mine would be the other in the wild!
I will say the MAJOR down side is lack of abilities in changing the contrast. You can change colors and you can make it brighter. That's it. If they would do a software update to allow for more range of adjustment it would be fantastic.
As for useable at 18x? Ehhhh it is. But side by side with the UTC xii and ELR, it's blown out of the water for telling what's what quickly vs watching how something moves to get "PID".
Overall I'm happy with it, but I'll also be upgrading to the newer ELR that's coming out because it's nice enough to do so for the price.
It is. As it should be. (5.5* FOV vs 8.8) I was impressed that there wasn't more difference.
The contrast thing is an issue once in a while. The animals don't seem to appear if there standing in front of something that's warmer than the background, but not as warm as the animal. I've noticed on all the Berings I've owned.
I will say that if the animal is in the open, it "pops" more than the Eotech, but the Eotech definitely gives more definition once you pick it out.
If I had known that the new Eotech was actually a MK1.5 with a replacement coming in a matter of months, I may have used the SY-Cii for a year before upgrading also.
Can you define performance a little more specifically?
I can't think of a single thing the first one does that the Genii doesn't do better off the top of my head.
I guess just the clarity of the picture in general. My hopes was you’d say they were equal so I didn’t feel guilty going for a V1 so I could also use it as a scanner as well haha I’m sure you’d say the V1 is still very good. But I couldn’t live with myself knowing there was something better for the same/similar price.
To the best of my knowledge, they use the same front sensor and lens, but the Genii has a better rear display and lens assembly. I feel the Genii produces a significantly better image that doesn't degrade as much with higher magnifications.
Also, my Genii had a scanner mode in the menu that increased the size of the icons. It's possible to use it as a scanner by just holding it to your eye, but the image is tiny since there's no magnifying eyepiece to swap on. It's not something I would want to do much
I said it in another post, but I would never give up all of the Genii features just for the scanner ability, but that's just me.
Any more updates on the SY-Cii? I'm saving up some cash with the goal of replacing my Simrad with a thermal this winter, and the enhanced SY-Cii really interests me. I don't see any for sale and this thread is the only place I've found any mention of it.
It isn't in the 2023 Bering price guide at this point, so I don't believe it will be released anytime soon. I am guessing they are swamped trying to get the LRF units out as well as the Hogster Charge (NV unit). If I hear something on it, I will provide an update.
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I’m looking to get one of these units soon, is the situation still the same? The dealer I’m going through reached out to Bearing yesterday and didn’t get a response. I guess they’ve still got their hands full?
I got a man on the phone and he gave me a direct sales email. I’m probably just going to bite the bit and do it that way.
For all the guys who have ordered from them do mounts come with it from Bering?
There are two Super Yoter C models now. The newer one that some called V2, is now called the Bering Optics Super Yoter C. It is part# BE46155. This is the model records video and has WiFi. The legacy version is now called the Super Yoter C Universal, part# BE46150. We don't have them both on our website yet, but they can be ordered from Night Goggles.
When you order a clip-on from Bering, you can order it with an objective mount. You measure the outside diameter of the scope you want to use it on, and they will provide an adapter that attaches to the outside of the scope. The other option is to purchase it with a picatinny QD mount. Bering recommends the objective mount unless you need to use on multiple guns and/or your day scope isn't perfectly round.
When you order a clip-on from Bering, you can order it with an objective mount. You measure the outside diameter of the scope you want to use it on, and they will provide an adapter that attaches to the outside of the scope. The other option is to purchase it with a picatinny QD mount. Bering recommends the objective mount unless you need to use on multiple guns and/or your day scope isn't perfectly round.
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I’m looking at optic mounted clip ons to run with a HNT26 chassis and the V2 yoter C is top of the list after reading this thread. I’m also looking at the pulsar krypton 2 and sterner C35 V2 but I’m not sure either of those are even stateside yet.
Any more V2 yoters out in the wild being put through their paces? I’d really like to hear from anyone objective mounting them as well.
Any more V2 yoters out in the wild being put through their paces? I’d really like to hear from anyone objective mounting them as well.
No experience with the Super yoter V2, but it has the same FOV as the V1. I had an FXG 50 and the yoter was the better clip on due to a lesser FOV and better eye piece glass (didn't blurry as fast as the FXG 50). Also, the steiner V2 more than likely has the same 12⁰ FOV, so the Super Yoter will support more mag than it still.
I’m running the V2 currently and I’m happy with it for sure. I’ve killed a few coyotes with it, and shot it out to 400 yards on a 10in steel circle.
If you don’t have a FFP optic it will give you trouble. That happened to me at first. SFP optics cover too many pixels and cause zero shift as you increase power on the day scope and as you increase your shooting distance. It will be a repeatable shift, but a shift nonetheless.
I switched to a FFP optic and it has made a tremendous difference.
Also, the features are nice. Wi-Fi connectivity works well, and you can saver zero profiles for multiple rifles.
If you have other questions PM me I’ll be happy to answer. I am running it as a clip on. I forgot to mention that at the beginning of my message.
Thanks for the response. I’m running an FFP NX8 2.5-20 so no issues there. When you say you’re running it as a clip on do you mean rail or scope mounted?
I did have to do a few modifications to get it to work correctly. Pm me and I’ll send you my phone number and get you some pictures.
I think that will depend on the adaptor and/or spacers you use.
I have 2 objective mounts a no name chinese and a smartclip I just measured them both and the chinamount is .350 and the smartclip is .150
Hope that helps
You’re saying the chinamount one requires .350” underneath for clearance? Is that the lowest part of the assembly including the yoter? The rail on my chassis is the whole length so I have to account for clearance on the mount and thermal itself.
Thank you. My scopes a 50mm objective so I’m sure the adapter will be bigger then the thermal. If I step up to 1.26” rings that’ll give me about 5/16” from the bottom of the scope to the top of the forend.
I've played with both versions and I would not objective mount either one unless you absolutely had to. Reason being is that the rear display is in the body of the scope and the lenses are housed in a separate section that is screwed onto the body. Objective mounting stresses the connection between the two and can cause a zero shift. The original version with the removable eyepiece for use as a scanner was really bad about this. The Genii is permanently affixed and is much better.
Both versions need a scope with adjustable parallax that goes down to 50yds or less. LPVO's with a fixed parallax such as a Geniii 1-10 razor will have as much a 1mil of cross hair movement if your eye position or cheekweld isn't perfect each time.
The HNT26 is less the ideal for clip on use for multiple reasons and I’m running an NX8 2.5-20 which I’ve seen several guys using so that should be fine.
Snagged one of these used and it came with the handheld viewer installed.
I swapped to the clip on eye piece, and the image is great but sometimes is a little blurry through my scope if I don't have my head positioned just right (more than I would have expected, and much more finicky than my PVS30).
My question is, how do I make sure the clip on eye piece is installed correctly to get the best experience through the scope? Thanks!
I swapped to the clip on eye piece, and the image is great but sometimes is a little blurry through my scope if I don't have my head positioned just right (more than I would have expected, and much more finicky than my PVS30).
My question is, how do I make sure the clip on eye piece is installed correctly to get the best experience through the scope? Thanks!
Regarding imagery and blur, it's not easily avoided. Eye piece designs are the solution, and good eye pieces are typically costly. Parallax can fix some of the issue. Staying on low power can resolve some of the issue too. I haven't found a solution that entirely fixes the blur, unless like you said, you're perfectly square behind the day-optic.
i2 devices are analog - you see through them - much easier to control image quality as seen by their rather wide band of collimation tolerance. Thermals have a significantly tighter tolerance which is why the best solution is to have a co-planer day-optic and thermal clip-on.
Even bell mounting a thermal clip-on with a Rusan type adapter doesn't always get the thermal square to the display.
The issues outlined are typically why you see large variance in pricing based on convenience and capability.
Makes sense, I mill see if there's anything I can do to make things better (or possibly worse haha). I am using the ADM pic mount which has been great. Thanks for the input!
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