Suppressor Issue

[Solo 43]

Here's the problem: custom built M700, with a 24" Shilen 1-10 , reamer a .308-M852. Rifle is a tack driver with all factory Match ammo/sub 1/2 MOA. When I put my Banish suppressor on, either a 7" or 9" .308, I can't get the bolt open with ANY factory Match ammo (the same factory ammo that shot fine W/OUT the suppressor), or my hand loads. Take the suppressor off, no problem....suppressor on...PROBLEM! Silencer Central and Banish had NO answer for the problem.

Comments/opinions?

 

[SD3Gunner]

might need a thunder beast! lol or a flow through...

 

[4O6shootist]

Here's the problem: custom built M700, with a 24" Shilen 1-10 , reamer a .308-M852. Rifle is a tack driver with all factory Match ammo/sub 1/2 MOA. When I put my Banish suppressor on, either a 7" or 9" .308, I can't get the bolt open with ANY factory Match ammo (the same factory ammo that shot fine W/OUT the suppressor), or my hand loads. Take the suppressor off, no problem....suppressor on...PROBLEM! Silencer Central and Banish had NO answer for the problem.

Comments/opinions?

Chrono numbers with and without suppressor? I see a 5-15 fps increase with several different supressors. Dilligent, TBAC, Deadair. None my rifles go from pressure safe, to wtf with can VS without.

 

[rustyinbend]

Just to be clear what you're saying .... are you saying that without the suppressor and after a shot, the bolt opens and the case easily ejects ... but with the suppressor on and after a suppressed shot, the bolt won't open and the case will not eject correctly.

Is that what you're saying? Plus ... tell us what you have to do to get the bolt to open after a suppressed firing. Obviously you get it open, but how difficult is it, or what gyrations do you go through to open it?

Frankly, what you're describing makes no sense ... I get why everyone is so confused by this. I've never seen anything like this, and I have 8 cans that I use on a dozen different rifles.

 

[clark33]

I recently experienced heavy bolt lift when running my tbac ultra 7 on a 20” 6.5prc with 147 Hornady match. Every 4 or 5th shot seemed over pressure so I decided not to push it. I just figured Hornady was loading them a little hot.

 

[John Glidewell]

When was the last time the suppressor was cleaned?

 

[Solo 43]

1) rustyinbend...that is EXACTLY what I'm saying. NO suppressor, bolt opens easily/case extracts normally. Screw on the suppressor, as in 'brand new', bolt won't open....you have to pound it open. Obviously, excessive pressure...with BOTH 7" and 9" cans. I know....this makes NO sense and I am a very experienced rifle shooter/reloader......High Master Highpower and long range (Palma) classifications, with 25K+ rnds reloaded with NO issues.
2) As mentioned, cans are brand new
3) Is it the brand of can?

I really am flummoxed!

 

[4O6shootist]

1) rustyinbend...that is EXACTLY what I'm saying. NO suppressor, bolt opens easily/case extracts normally. Screw on the suppressor, as in 'brand new', bolt won't open....you have to pound it open. Obviously, excessive pressure...with BOTH 7" and 9" cans. I know....this makes NO sense and I am a very experienced rifle shooter/reloader......High Master Highpower and long range (Palma) classifications, with 25K+ rnds reloaded with NO issues.
2) As mentioned, cans are brand new
3) Is it the brand of can?

I really am flummoxed!

Pressure has to be WAY up. Did you chrono anything? Going from safe to locked up is gonna be a 100-200fps delta VS bare muzzle.

I'd disassemble the supressor as much as possible, take to a smith with pin gauges and check baffle size. Soubds like you're shooting 308 through an undersized can.

 

[CoryT]

I've seen this issue, but only with handloads, not factory ammunition. If a powder is used that does not get a complete burn in the barrel length available, the excess powder and gasses can flash over in the suppressor, leading to a VERY high pressure wave going back down the barrel. The old Shooting Software site had an article on this issue with the Pressure Trace displays to illustrate it.

Odd to see it in a 24" .308, as most loads have a complete burn in 22" or so. What's the handload and what factory ammo have you used? The suppressor can be part of the issue, reflecting the pressure wave back down the tube.

 

[Aftermath]

Just a guess...you are at MAX load or maybe a good bit more. You are skating by when not using a suppressor but add that faux barrel length and now you are in the real serious red zone.

 

[loveha]

Some people are missing if they go back and reread the first post that he has tried factory loads with the same issue.

I would get some chrono results so we can get a better idea as to what is going on.

 

[Macht]

Does it happen on the very first shot with the can, or get worse over time?

 

[Aftermath]

Some people are missing if they go back and reread the first post that he has tried factory loads with the same issue.

I would get some chrono results so we can get a better idea as to what is going on.

Pressure can be there with factory loads, too...ala carbon ring...

 

[4O6shootist]

Pressure can be there with factory loads, too...ala carbon ring...

Pressure from a carbon ring would likely be present without supressor as well one would think.

 

[Aftermath]

Pressure from a carbon ring would likely be present without supressor as well one would think.

I would think so...imagine that it is there but not yet manifesting as a sticky bolt...yet. Or maybe it IS sticky but not being realized.

 

[Aftermath]

Here's the problem: custom built M700, with a 24" Shilen 1-10 , reamer a .308-M852. Rifle is a tack driver with all factory Match ammo/sub 1/2 MOA. When I put my Banish suppressor on, either a 7" or 9" .308, I can't get the bolt open with ANY factory Match ammo (the same factory ammo that shot fine W/OUT the suppressor), or my hand loads. Take the suppressor off, no problem....suppressor on...PROBLEM! Silencer Central and Banish had NO answer for the problem.

Comments/opinions?

CLEAN the ever loving crap out of your chamber, freebore and bore. Make sure your suppressor is clean. Shoot and discover.

 

[Solo 43]

It's a BRAND new Shilen, which I slugged before chambering....the slug was perfect! NO, repeat, NO, pressure issues with factory match OR my hand loads WITHOUT the suppressor. You know, bolt just pops open. First shot, with the brand new can installed, with the same factory match box of ammo, can't lift the bolt. And this occurs with the Banish 7" and 9" can. I'm gonna try another can from someone and see what happens.

 

[rustyinbend]

It's a BRAND new Shilen, which I slugged before chambering....the slug was perfect! NO, repeat, NO, pressure issues with factory match OR my hand loads WITHOUT the suppressor. You know, bolt just pops open. First shot, with the brand new can installed, with the same factory match box of ammo, can't lift the bolt. And this occurs with the Banish 7" and 9" can. I'm gonna try another can from someone and see what happens.

Any other pressure signs ... cupped primers, prints on the base, stuff like that? Or is a heavy bolt the only pressure sign?

 

[rustyinbend]

Next step for me would be to soak the inside of the barrel and chamber with Bore Tech Eliminator overnight, then scrub the ever-lovin' shit out of it making sure there's no carbon ring or chamber fouling ... which is basically the only thing I can think of that might be at play here. I know there are bore-scope haters out there, but checking carbon rings before and after cleaning is a good use of them.