My SAS Titanium Arbiter was finally approved. Searched the forum to see if anyone has removed the brake from a 10FCP-K and screwed a can on - nothing came up. Anyone done it? Any problems getting the brake off?
Suppressor on 10FCP-K?
- Thread starter Xshot
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Re: Suppressor on 10FCP-K?
Yep. You'll need some wood bocks to support the barrel, and either an industrial strength heat gun or a torch to heat-soak the brake to at least 300F, or more. They used some sort of thread locker at the factory that makes it a beotch to remove otherwise.
Yep. You'll need some wood bocks to support the barrel, and either an industrial strength heat gun or a torch to heat-soak the brake to at least 300F, or more. They used some sort of thread locker at the factory that makes it a beotch to remove otherwise.
Re: Suppressor on 10FCP-K?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bodywerks</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yep. You'll need some wood bocks to support the barrel, and either an industrial strength heat gun or a torch to heat-soak the brake to at least 300F, or more. They used some sort of thread locker at the factory that makes it a beotch to remove otherwise. </div></div>
Made up some barrel blocks out of some 1 1/2" oak I had on hand. Got everything set up in a vise and put a wrench to the OEM muzzle brake. Gave it a test twist and to my surprise the muzzle brake came loose with just a slight twist. Probably could have done it in my lap. The SAS muzzle brake threaded right on with no problems.
Word of advise - if you go with a suppressor that threads onto a brake or FA, make sure you apply thread locker to the brake/FA. Otherwise, when you put your suppressor on the brake/FA - giving it a good twist to make sure it's tight - the brake/FA may also move. Ask me how I know.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bodywerks</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yep. You'll need some wood bocks to support the barrel, and either an industrial strength heat gun or a torch to heat-soak the brake to at least 300F, or more. They used some sort of thread locker at the factory that makes it a beotch to remove otherwise. </div></div>
Made up some barrel blocks out of some 1 1/2" oak I had on hand. Got everything set up in a vise and put a wrench to the OEM muzzle brake. Gave it a test twist and to my surprise the muzzle brake came loose with just a slight twist. Probably could have done it in my lap. The SAS muzzle brake threaded right on with no problems.
Word of advise - if you go with a suppressor that threads onto a brake or FA, make sure you apply thread locker to the brake/FA. Otherwise, when you put your suppressor on the brake/FA - giving it a good twist to make sure it's tight - the brake/FA may also move. Ask me how I know.
Re: Suppressor on 10FCP-K?
Visually checking bore and suppressor alignment later today. Loctite blue takes 24 hour to cure, so if everything looks good I'll be able to test fire late this afternoon.
Visually checking bore and suppressor alignment later today. Loctite blue takes 24 hour to cure, so if everything looks good I'll be able to test fire late this afternoon.
Re: Suppressor on 10FCP-K?
So far so good. No problems with my test firings, but I haven't figured out how to remove the grin from my face
I will say the SAS suppressor and brake are well made and quite effective. Next I'll move on to test firing with it fitted to my AR-10. I bought a separate SAS brake for it too and it installed easily.
So far so good. No problems with my test firings, but I haven't figured out how to remove the grin from my face
I will say the SAS suppressor and brake are well made and quite effective. Next I'll move on to test firing with it fitted to my AR-10. I bought a separate SAS brake for it too and it installed easily.
Re: Suppressor on 10FCP-K?
The Hoff
Regarding the question of the FCP-K, I am BRAND NEW to precision bolt gun shooting and I was able to get 100yd .4 inch 3 shot groups this afternoon with my FLCP-K. First time out ever with this rifle....The holes touched each other.
For $750.00 I don't see how I could have done any better.
The Hoff
Regarding the question of the FCP-K, I am BRAND NEW to precision bolt gun shooting and I was able to get 100yd .4 inch 3 shot groups this afternoon with my FLCP-K. First time out ever with this rifle....The holes touched each other.
For $750.00 I don't see how I could have done any better.
Re: Suppressor on 10FCP-K?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: The_Hoff</div><div class="ubbcode-body">how do you like the 10FCP-K? I am thinking about picking one up </div></div>
Incredibly accurate rifle. I put 30 rounds down the tube and cleaned it every 5 rounds. Then hit it real good with J-B bore paste. Cleans up fast with very little copper residue. Now I only clean it once the accuracy drops off, about 100 - 120 round.
AccuStock is acceptable once I made an adjustable cheek rest for it. I'm good with the AccuTrigger.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: The_Hoff</div><div class="ubbcode-body">how do you like the 10FCP-K? I am thinking about picking one up </div></div>
Incredibly accurate rifle. I put 30 rounds down the tube and cleaned it every 5 rounds. Then hit it real good with J-B bore paste. Cleans up fast with very little copper residue. Now I only clean it once the accuracy drops off, about 100 - 120 round.
AccuStock is acceptable once I made an adjustable cheek rest for it. I'm good with the AccuTrigger.
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