Suppressors Surefire FA762ss Owners - Quick Inquiry
- Thread starter chrome
- Start date
Absolutely none. Have had mind since 2011 or 12. It’s a beast and has easily seen more rounds than any other can I own. It’s extremely repeatable and always marries up to the same tooth on every mount.
Thx for the reply. Check the video below. Am I not man-handling this enough when I tighten it? The only reason I ask this is because I have another rifle with the same mount, and I notice both a distinct audible and tactile difference when I mount the suppressor compared to this rig:
Dropbox - Error - Simplify your life
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Thx for the reply. Check the video below. Am I not man-handling this enough when I tighten it? The only reason I ask this is because I have another rifle with the same mount, and I notice both a distinct audible and tactile difference when I mount the suppressor compared to this rig:
Dropbox - Error - Simplify your life
I forgot they made two iterations of these things, only difference being the QD mechanism. Mine has the exposed flange that you have to pull down on to disengage, not the button style. I'll snap a pic
Thx for that, yeah looks like we have different QDs. I've only had 2 shooting sessions with it so nothing leads me to believe its coming loose per se, but given that 1-2 degree rotation under pressure, now my spidey sense is up on it. Also knowing it locks up different on two different mounts is interesting to me. Probably warrants a quick call to SF.
Chrome, for your style latch, try this:
Cinch down on the collar like normal. Do it swiftly. Then grab the suppressor and twist to check for play. If play is present, give the collar another swift twist, using more force if necessary. Repeat the sequence a few times until there is no visual or audible play.
This is what I have to do on the 556 and 762 RC’s. Some mount require more effort to eliminate the play than others. All of my play is audible, it’s not even visible.
Cinch down on the collar like normal. Do it swiftly. Then grab the suppressor and twist to check for play. If play is present, give the collar another swift twist, using more force if necessary. Repeat the sequence a few times until there is no visual or audible play.
This is what I have to do on the 556 and 762 RC’s. Some mount require more effort to eliminate the play than others. All of my play is audible, it’s not even visible.
It’s what I’ve had to do with all the fine-tooth Surefires to get them to lock up solid. Although from the numerous times I’ve shot with the audible play still present, I can’t say I noticed any adverse effects (based on the platforms and ammo being fired). I just much prefer knowing it’s solid. I’ve always preferred the old days with the latch style like the other dude posted above. They were simple.
chrome - i have two 762ss's with the same symtyle latch as you and neither moves like in your video. you have pictures of your brake/flashider? it may not be a big deal - as long as its seating on all the way and not misaligning it should function properly - but i would call surefire just to see what they say
So tried man handing it a bit more this morning and still getting a bit of wiggle similar to the video. On hold with surefire to get their take on it. But quick question, when y'all mount up your can, how much distance do you have between the collar and the tube? Here are mine below, first is the 6.5cm where I have the wiggle, and the second is the .308 where i have no wiggle:
6.5cm
.308
6.5cm
.308
Can you give us a better angle on that pic. I did have a barrel not cut for proper clearances. It can hit in multiple spots 1) One the fattest part of barrel diameter and also 2) on the Inside of the lock not on the smaller diameter. Try turning it on with about 60% force a few times, take it of and look for marks on barrel. See below pic for when I had original barrel cut wrong from smith. There is small line that is more shiny than the surrounding area.
I sent the barrel to a different smith who cut the barrel shoulder back past that line, but then didn't go quite deep enough. Teeth were locking, but it was angling the can. Luckily we caught it doing the same thing and seeing the rub. Finished taking it down and can works great now. The lock nut has a cam motion to it when it tightens down.
I sent the barrel to a different smith who cut the barrel shoulder back past that line, but then didn't go quite deep enough. Teeth were locking, but it was angling the can. Luckily we caught it doing the same thing and seeing the rub. Finished taking it down and can works great now. The lock nut has a cam motion to it when it tightens down.
OP - did you put the brake on the 6.5 yourself, or did the smith? can you get the brake to wiggle at all or is it clearly just the can and how it engages with the brake that is introducing the wobble?
Brake doesn't wiggle under the same pressure as I can get the can to wiggle, and I had a smith install it. Barrel was profiled and threaded by PVA
Dude, you may have nailed this. I just attached the can on/off hard 5 times, and I noticed the below, it is VERY slight, but you can see something rubbing
Here is the profile of the .308 barrel:
i can tell just looking at that picture that it couldnt properly lock on without the appropriate relief cut machined behind the break. that is your problem. surefire can send you the machining diagram. i have one saved somewhere if you need.
if the smith wont fix it theres a lot of good ones on here that will. LRI has done good work for me in the past on similar small fixes.
if the smith wont fix it theres a lot of good ones on here that will. LRI has done good work for me in the past on similar small fixes.
Damn 
- I sent the instructions w/the brake when it was made, but admittedly trusted it to be right. Guess good news is I haven't shot the can off the gun!
If you happen to come across the machining diagram lmk, I'll call surefire back again today to see if they can get them to me.
- I sent the instructions w/the brake when it was made, but admittedly trusted it to be right. Guess good news is I haven't shot the can off the gun!If you happen to come across the machining diagram lmk, I'll call surefire back again today to see if they can get them to me.
Sorry I'm late to the party here...
My can has the same button lock that yours does, and I use it on multiple rifles. It locks on rock solid, no play like yours has...
As noted above it looks like the relief cut is your issue.
Surefire has outstanding customer support, I'm sure they will send you a new set of instructions if you contact them.
Sorry I didn't see this/chime in earlier!
I know a good smith to fix this for you, shoot me a pm if you are interested.
DW
My can has the same button lock that yours does, and I use it on multiple rifles. It locks on rock solid, no play like yours has...
As noted above it looks like the relief cut is your issue.
Surefire has outstanding customer support, I'm sure they will send you a new set of instructions if you contact them.
Sorry I didn't see this/chime in earlier!
I know a good smith to fix this for you, shoot me a pm if you are interested.
DW
UPDATE:
This thread was super helpful, especially the few who PM'd (especially @deltawiskey) and got me hooked up with a specialized M40 smith here in VA. 1 week turn around time and I have it back today. In short, everyone above was correct, profile of the barrel was the root cause to the can wiggling on me. Got it all put back together this afternoon, and it is rock solid in its lock up, and I can hear/feel the "tactile" clicks when I mount it on this rifle just like I do when I mount it to other FA762ss setup I have.
This thread was super helpful, especially the few who PM'd (especially @deltawiskey) and got me hooked up with a specialized M40 smith here in VA. 1 week turn around time and I have it back today. In short, everyone above was correct, profile of the barrel was the root cause to the can wiggling on me. Got it all put back together this afternoon, and it is rock solid in its lock up, and I can hear/feel the "tactile" clicks when I mount it on this rifle just like I do when I mount it to other FA762ss setup I have.
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Happy I was able to help out!
Mark, https://ravenrifles.com/ has always been great to work with and a top notch M40 builder!
DW
I have a legacy can on an XM-3 and it's been nothing but rock solid, for many years,no zero shift worth mentioning
Ended up deciding against it. Just couldn’t justify the $2500 it would’ve cost for one with the stamp and brake. Not at the moment anyway. It’s on the list though.
