Can somebody recommend a setup for swapping barrels on my Stiller Predator rifle? Having a barrel chambered in 6.5 SAUM and it's currently got a 300WSM barrel. Planning on shooting them both. I prefer to be able to swap barrels with the scope still on. Would a Davidson port action wrench do the trick? Would putting the barrel in the vise out past the end of the scope be detrimental? It is a #3 contour Lilja.
Gunsmithing Switch Barrel
- Thread starter blackfoot
- Start date
Not 100pct sure on stiller specs but I use ptg rear entry wrench for my 700 switcher. I leave optics and all on and clamp just in front of the scope. No issues.
I would remove the scope as you will have to zero again after the barrel swap. I'll bet you will be close after swapping barrels and remounting scope.
It will also depend on the torque the current barrel has.
R
It will also depend on the torque the current barrel has.
R
Uh, take the scope off there before unscrewing the barrel. I have seen scopes damaged from either the twist in the action if using a rear entry wrench, or the POP it makes when a tight one busts loose.
You can clamp the barrel anywhere, I like it close as I can to the lug, less spring in the barrel. Plus I don't doink up the paint on the stock, since it's off the action.
Either the Davidson or Surgeon wrench will work. I like the Surgeon myself, but I already had that.
For the really tough ones, yours is probably NOT one, the wheeler wrench that clamps around the action is the best. You can still mess up with that too, but it's easier on the action since the torque is right at the threads. If its that tight, I use a high speed steel wrench, in the lathe!!!
You can clamp the barrel anywhere, I like it close as I can to the lug, less spring in the barrel. Plus I don't doink up the paint on the stock, since it's off the action.
Either the Davidson or Surgeon wrench will work. I like the Surgeon myself, but I already had that.
For the really tough ones, yours is probably NOT one, the wheeler wrench that clamps around the action is the best. You can still mess up with that too, but it's easier on the action since the torque is right at the threads. If its that tight, I use a high speed steel wrench, in the lathe!!!
You can leave the bases on. Those are some of my favorite mounts too - I keep extras around, they fit so many things, and are foolproof. If I was making a switchbarrel though, I'd use a pic rail on top, and some sort of QD mount on the scope.
While you have the barrel off the first time, why don't you get the lug pinned? That will make life a lot easier, and one less tool to keep up with.
Switched mine and many others with scope mounted and no issues. I doubt popping and action is any more severe then recoil on a scope. I had the barrel off one yesterday to paint and reinstalled it to same torque and torqued it back into my chassis and zero was dead nuts. Ymmv
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