Re: Switching bolts between M1A rifles?
I think you have some minor problems, and it sounds like you may be able to fix them on your own.
First of all...you can't just swap bolts. They are an armorer hard-fit item. You can have the headspace checked, but I have not seen h/s to be a problem in Springfields. They are built to commercial specs, and military rifles are longer and fire fine. It's a possibility, but you can eliminate the other potential issues first.
Disassemble the bolt and clean the interior of the bolt thoroughly with a brush. Let it soak overnight if necessary to get all the gunk out. When clean, check the firing pin protrusion from the bolt face in the Scout bolt and compare it with the one in the Loaded model...I don't remember the spec off hand. Just a little debris in the nose section of the bolt can restrict firing pin protrusion. You can also compare the two firing pins while you have them apart. If the Scout is shorter, ask SA for a new GI firing pin.
Clean and compare the two trigger groups. You may need a new hammer spring, or there may be some other defect in the Scout trigger group causing a weak strike. It's hard to give comprehensive advice on this, but check for burrs and make sure it is clean and greased/lubed properly. You can ask SA for a new hammer spring either way.
The extractor problem is likely caused by an out-of-spec aftermarket extractor. This is a very common issue. Ask Springfield to send you a GI extractor, pin and spring for the Scout, and replacements for the Loaded model.
When you have exhausted your efforts, you can always send it back to SA with detailed description of the problem after first talking to a supervisor as Santo describes. Make it clear you want the rifle thoroughly inspected and fixed...just taking a rifle out of the box and firing a few rounds to see if it goes bang is not trouble shooting a problem.
TC