I have a T1X in a KRG Bravo stock. KRG recommended 45 in/lbs torque for the action screws. A lot of times when I shoot groups [after seasoning the BARREL] 5 shots will group in the bull but, the next five will group right 1/2" for no reason I can see. The group size is the same or equal but, the zero moved. What am I doing wrong?
T1X Groups
- Thread starter dhom
- Start date
I have a T1x in a Bravo as well and I cannot say I have had the same experience, mine shoots same POI everytime I take it out. I am running my front action screw at 50 in/lbs and the rear at about 40 though as it did not shoot great at 45 front/rear.
Are the groups moving from day to day, or is it all in one range session?
Are the groups moving from day to day, or is it all in one range session?
Buckeye,,,,,,,,I can not figure whats going on. I will season the barrel 20 shots than start shooting 50 yds and make sure of the sight in and start shooting groups at a bullseye [usually1/2"] Then I will shoot maybe 5 - 5 shot groups and somewhere along the line the zero will change. The screw on the top of the Bravo is also torqued to approx 45 in/lbs. do you think that could have anything to do with it? I pay much attention to being consistent with trigger and how much or little pressure I am putting on the rifle.
That is a strange issue and I am not sure I will be much more help. I dont think the top screw could have anything to do with it, mine is set about the same. I would probably try shooting one group of 20 or 25 rounds to see if it strings out. It could be an issue with uneven carbon build up. If it keeps doing it, I would probably go over to Rimfire Central and ask the question under the Tikka thread, there are a lot of knowledgeable people there as well, many who spend most of their time with rimfires.
The screw ontop of the Bravo should not be torqued 45 in lbs. The Tikka is not a Centerfire Rifle, I only had my rimfire Tikka in the Bravo torqued around 20-30 lbs in the action screws.
Make sure you installed it correctly against the recoil lug.
Make sure your parallax is correct on your scope and target. I had a lot of times where parallax as off and I was wondering why I was grouping off.
Make sure you installed it correctly against the recoil lug.
Make sure your parallax is correct on your scope and target. I had a lot of times where parallax as off and I was wondering why I was grouping off.
I am sure it is not carbon build up. littlepod I will loosen up the top screw. As far as the fitting in the stock, it was fairly tight going in. I did not have to force anything but, it was snug fit. My scope had to be sent in for repair because the clicks got mushy and hard to distinguish. It is supposed to be returned today, so it will be a couple of days before I get to shoot again. I will take the barreled action out of the stock to see if I am on the recoil lug.
I believe that is the issue with my T1X/Bravo set-up. I had an early 1st gen PST and the zero would appear to shift. I checked and the scope wasn’t correcting parallax at 50 yards. Sent it to Vortex and they confirmed it wasn’t correct. They couldn’t fix the scope so they sent me a brand new one which I am going to try and zero this weekend weather permitting.
I just got my Vortex Crossfire II back and remounted it. I sent it in because the clicks went [mushy] bad and it did not want to track well. It looks like rain all day today so, it will be a few more days before I can try it out. The suggestion on bad parallax might just end up being the problem.
Dhom,
I am speaking on my shooting experience but when I had groups that seemed to shift (with a properly torqued, scope in good working order), then return to zero again, it was usually the result of one or more of the following factors.
1. Poorly set parallax - head bobble test to verify correct parallax with each target. when I’d lift my head slightly off the comb and move my eye position by imagining my cheek as the pivot point, the rifle would move less which allowed me to get a getter sense of whether or not the parallax was set correctly.
2. Muscling the rifle - even with a shift of 2-3 inches to the next Shoot-n-see target, the natural point of aim needs to be reset. reset the NPOA with each new target, no matter how small of a shift it may be.
3. Loose thread protector - most of my 22LR rifles are threaded. From the factory, I had issues with the thread protector starting to come loose during my initial break ins. My new procedure for New rifles with thread protectors is to clean the thread with brake cleaner and use blue locktire as my pre-range Inspection and cleaning of a new rifle.
These are my limited experiences With wandering zero shift with #1 and #2 having to do with marksmanship fundamentals and #3 with equipment set up. I hope that you find some value in it.
YMMV, happy shooting.
I am speaking on my shooting experience but when I had groups that seemed to shift (with a properly torqued, scope in good working order), then return to zero again, it was usually the result of one or more of the following factors.
1. Poorly set parallax - head bobble test to verify correct parallax with each target. when I’d lift my head slightly off the comb and move my eye position by imagining my cheek as the pivot point, the rifle would move less which allowed me to get a getter sense of whether or not the parallax was set correctly.
2. Muscling the rifle - even with a shift of 2-3 inches to the next Shoot-n-see target, the natural point of aim needs to be reset. reset the NPOA with each new target, no matter how small of a shift it may be.
3. Loose thread protector - most of my 22LR rifles are threaded. From the factory, I had issues with the thread protector starting to come loose during my initial break ins. My new procedure for New rifles with thread protectors is to clean the thread with brake cleaner and use blue locktire as my pre-range Inspection and cleaning of a new rifle.
These are my limited experiences With wandering zero shift with #1 and #2 having to do with marksmanship fundamentals and #3 with equipment set up. I hope that you find some value in it.
YMMV, happy shooting.
Mr Wolf,,, I am aware of the shooting technique. When I shoot bench I just let the rifle touch my shoulder and cheek. The only force applied is enough to feel the rifle. [very light and the rifle is free to recoil] I do check my thread protector fairly regular and have not had one loosen yet. [thread protector is something I wouldn't have thought of as the problem, good to know] I will be able to get shooting some time this week. I am leaning towards parallax being quite probable. If not I am back to square one. Thank you for your reply.
I finally got out to shoot but, it was windy. I have to believe parallax was the problem. I would normally set the scope to the appropriate parallax as indicated on the scope. This time at the range I looked in the scope to set. My groups were well rounded now. One thing I did was really torqued the front action screw hard. I can't tell what the in/lbs are because I had to use a long handled T grip to reach it. My Wheeler bit doean't reach the front action screw. Thanks for all your replies!
Yeah man, don’t do this. Set it through the scope and do a quick head bobble to check it’s correct.
Even high end scopes don’t always line up with the numbers on the scope, cough Niteforce cough.
Also scope changes with atmospheric changes. Throughout the summer, my #'s lined up perfectly... then on a 39 degree day I was shooting I noticed the numbers no longer matched the parallax free state.
Also depends on how well the diopter is set and your own eye refraction (sphere) can change up to +/- .25 from exam to exam. Recommend not trusting the numbers on the dial, instead do the bobble head check.
YMMV, happy shooting.
YMMV, happy shooting.
I got a chance to shoot at the indoor range yesterday. [25 shots at 25 bulls] The first round I managed 250-12X and the second round 250-14X. This is shooting SK+ nothing fancy. I am doing the bobble head check and my settings are fairly close to the scope markings but definitely different. My consistency is definitely better. Thanks again!
First day shooting T1X mounted in a KRG Bravo with Midas+ ammo. My rifle seems to like this combination. I agree with others about checking parallax. You might also want to make sure your cheek weld and sight picture are consistent.
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