WHat's the most cost effective way to tame recoil on a 1911? I was thinking of maybe adding a recoil spring that is 2# - 4# heavier. Would that do it?
Gunsmithing Taming Recoil on A 1911 Question
- Thread starter RoosterShooter
- Start date
Re: Taming Recoil on A 1911 Question
I wouldn't think a recoil spring would do anything. All the felt recoil of a 1911 is going to occur while the barrel link has the slide locked to the barrel, therefore, all the reactive force (Newton's third law) is transferred to the frame and ultimately to your hand. The only way to reduce it would be to reduce the load (my preference *), use a muzzle brake, or increase the mass (and ultimately the inertia) of the gun.
* When I shot a lot, my practice load was 0.45 APC 200gn LSWC bullets on top of 3.2 gn WST which was just enough to work the slide of a standard 1911. When I shot in competition, I used standard loads, but by practicing with light loads, I never anticipated the recoil and so never flubbed my shots.
I wouldn't think a recoil spring would do anything. All the felt recoil of a 1911 is going to occur while the barrel link has the slide locked to the barrel, therefore, all the reactive force (Newton's third law) is transferred to the frame and ultimately to your hand. The only way to reduce it would be to reduce the load (my preference *), use a muzzle brake, or increase the mass (and ultimately the inertia) of the gun.
* When I shot a lot, my practice load was 0.45 APC 200gn LSWC bullets on top of 3.2 gn WST which was just enough to work the slide of a standard 1911. When I shot in competition, I used standard loads, but by practicing with light loads, I never anticipated the recoil and so never flubbed my shots.
Re: Taming Recoil on A 1911 Question
So, a recoil buffer wouldn't bring the felt recoil down at all?
The reason I ask.
I have a Kimber Eclipse Target II and the standard spring weight is 16#. The Kimber Eclispe PRO Target II model utilizes a 22# spring with the exact specs and it shoots more comfortably with the same load.
So, a recoil buffer wouldn't bring the felt recoil down at all?
The reason I ask.
I have a Kimber Eclipse Target II and the standard spring weight is 16#. The Kimber Eclispe PRO Target II model utilizes a 22# spring with the exact specs and it shoots more comfortably with the same load.
Re: Taming Recoil on A 1911 Question
I run 18.5 springs in my 5 inch guns, recoil isn't bad. Might thing about an EGW flat bottom FP stop to slow everything down just a bit
I run 18.5 springs in my 5 inch guns, recoil isn't bad. Might thing about an EGW flat bottom FP stop to slow everything down just a bit
Re: Taming Recoil on A 1911 Question
You may try some reduced recoil loads....
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/241451/...point-box-of-20
or buy a 9mm (snicker snicker) Just don't tell anyone.
You may try some reduced recoil loads....
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/241451/...point-box-of-20
or buy a 9mm (snicker snicker) Just don't tell anyone.
Re: Taming Recoil on A 1911 Question
Nah .... I think I'll stick to my standard loads. I don't want to go feeding whimpy loads into my .45 !
The reason I'm asking about this is because I'm working up a B-day present for my wife next month. She loves my 1911s, but the recoil is a bit much on a 110# girl. Know what I mean?
Nah .... I think I'll stick to my standard loads. I don't want to go feeding whimpy loads into my .45 !
The reason I'm asking about this is because I'm working up a B-day present for my wife next month. She loves my 1911s, but the recoil is a bit much on a 110# girl. Know what I mean?
Re: Taming Recoil on A 1911 Question
just get her one in 9mm.
just get her one in 9mm.
Re: Taming Recoil on A 1911 Question
Adding weight helps. A tungsten guiderod and a magwell can reduce felt recoil.
As for springs, I find a lighter spring (14lbs with a buff) reduces flip over the 16-18lb springs. The recoil is "different". On my Edge in .40 the 12 lb spring is perfect.
I also use a flat FP stop, but find it's more of a tuning tool combined with spring rates to get the gun to return to battery how you want it (not left muzzle high or with a dip when it returns to battery).
Adding weight helps. A tungsten guiderod and a magwell can reduce felt recoil.
As for springs, I find a lighter spring (14lbs with a buff) reduces flip over the 16-18lb springs. The recoil is "different". On my Edge in .40 the 12 lb spring is perfect.
I also use a flat FP stop, but find it's more of a tuning tool combined with spring rates to get the gun to return to battery how you want it (not left muzzle high or with a dip when it returns to battery).
Re: Taming Recoil on A 1911 Question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lycanthrope</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Adding weight helps. A tungsten guiderod and a magwell can reduce felt recoil.
As for springs, I find a lighter spring (14lbs with a buff) reduces flip over the 16-18lb springs. The recoil is "different". On my Edge in .40 the 12 lb spring is perfect.
I also use a flat FP stop, but find it's more of a tuning tool combined with spring rates to get the gun to return to battery how you want it (not left muzzle high or with a dip when it returns to battery). </div></div>
+1 on what he said. Heavy recoil springs only introduce more flip. Go for a 14lb spring (conventional coils) and if you want add a 2nd buff that can dampen down the slide hit more but you will have to clip a coil or two to get the full slide travel. I also agree - add in a tungsten GR and a new FP stop. Play with it and you can tune it the way that it feels best.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lycanthrope</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Adding weight helps. A tungsten guiderod and a magwell can reduce felt recoil.
As for springs, I find a lighter spring (14lbs with a buff) reduces flip over the 16-18lb springs. The recoil is "different". On my Edge in .40 the 12 lb spring is perfect.
I also use a flat FP stop, but find it's more of a tuning tool combined with spring rates to get the gun to return to battery how you want it (not left muzzle high or with a dip when it returns to battery). </div></div>
+1 on what he said. Heavy recoil springs only introduce more flip. Go for a 14lb spring (conventional coils) and if you want add a 2nd buff that can dampen down the slide hit more but you will have to clip a coil or two to get the full slide travel. I also agree - add in a tungsten GR and a new FP stop. Play with it and you can tune it the way that it feels best.
Re: Taming Recoil on A 1911 Question
V10 (I thinks thats right) style porting? A comp hanging off the end of the barrel can reduce flip but can make the gun a bit nose heavy and really isn't practical for a carry gun. But you may just let her shoot it and see how she does. My 1911 is an old Springfield Compact (commander slide on an officers frame). I manage the recoil very well and its WAY more quirky than a full size. I thinks its not bad even with full power 230 gr ball.
The BIG difference for me was my husband fitting a memory grooved high beavertail safety, and getting it to fit my hand very well. Getting a solid grip it one of the most crucial aspects of getting great results out of your pistol. We're lucky, we're both solid 1911 shooters, but not everyone finds that it fits their hand as well. Jim was rather upset recently when I wrapped my paw around a FNP40 and went "Ooooohhhhhh, I like it!". Get what fits, and it will go a long way in recoil management and cut the time on second shots.
Take a girls word on it.
V10 (I thinks thats right) style porting? A comp hanging off the end of the barrel can reduce flip but can make the gun a bit nose heavy and really isn't practical for a carry gun. But you may just let her shoot it and see how she does. My 1911 is an old Springfield Compact (commander slide on an officers frame). I manage the recoil very well and its WAY more quirky than a full size. I thinks its not bad even with full power 230 gr ball.
The BIG difference for me was my husband fitting a memory grooved high beavertail safety, and getting it to fit my hand very well. Getting a solid grip it one of the most crucial aspects of getting great results out of your pistol. We're lucky, we're both solid 1911 shooters, but not everyone finds that it fits their hand as well. Jim was rather upset recently when I wrapped my paw around a FNP40 and went "Ooooohhhhhh, I like it!". Get what fits, and it will go a long way in recoil management and cut the time on second shots.
Take a girls word on it.
Re: Taming Recoil on A 1911 Question
add more weight to your pistol e.g. light or heavy guiderod
port your barrel
add more weight to your pistol e.g. light or heavy guiderod
port your barrel
Re: Taming Recoil on A 1911 Question
+1 weight will help with the recoil (tungsten guide rod or the like).
Jeffvn
+1 weight will help with the recoil (tungsten guide rod or the like).
Jeffvn
Re: Taming Recoil on A 1911 Question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Eric Bryant</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If the slide is smacking the frame as it cycles, then a heavier spring may help reduce "felt" recoil. </div></div>
+1
45 Super conversion of 1911 for $8
Hot loads with stock springs can give a guy a flinch.
A flinch can take a lot longer to get rid of than it takes to get.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Eric Bryant</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If the slide is smacking the frame as it cycles, then a heavier spring may help reduce "felt" recoil. </div></div>
+1
45 Super conversion of 1911 for $8
Hot loads with stock springs can give a guy a flinch.
A flinch can take a lot longer to get rid of than it takes to get.
Re: Taming Recoil on A 1911 Question
I run a comp on mine sometimes but mainly I run my Ti rant.
I run a comp on mine sometimes but mainly I run my Ti rant.
Re: Taming Recoil on A 1911 Question
The different Springs are to match to the ammo you are shooting.
Full power 230 gr hard ball = heaviest poundage spring.
Light target 180- 200 gr try a lighter spring.
keeps the slide from beating the frame up.
I also put a " shok buff" from wilson combat on the spring guide.
Not saying this will reduce all of your felt recoil but, it will protect your gun from needless destruction.
The different Springs are to match to the ammo you are shooting.
Full power 230 gr hard ball = heaviest poundage spring.
Light target 180- 200 gr try a lighter spring.
keeps the slide from beating the frame up.
I also put a " shok buff" from wilson combat on the spring guide.
Not saying this will reduce all of your felt recoil but, it will protect your gun from needless destruction.
Re: Taming Recoil on A 1911 Question
Light loads, light bullets, use a lighter spring. You're not going to beat physics.
Light loads, light bullets, use a lighter spring. You're not going to beat physics.
Re: Taming Recoil on A 1911 Question
Grip and stance can have an effect on perceived recoil.
Other than that many things have been mentioned here. However, from my experience, for the same power factor load, (bullet weight times velocity divided by 1000), using the heaviest bullet and the fastest powder gave the softest recoil.
Going to a lighter recoil spring will make the recoil feel less too, but you will be impacting the frame with the slide harder.
Grip and stance can have an effect on perceived recoil.
Other than that many things have been mentioned here. However, from my experience, for the same power factor load, (bullet weight times velocity divided by 1000), using the heaviest bullet and the fastest powder gave the softest recoil.
Going to a lighter recoil spring will make the recoil feel less too, but you will be impacting the frame with the slide harder.
Re: Taming Recoil on A 1911 Question
Actually a lighter recoil spring will reduce felt recoil, but is hard on the pistol frame. Try a 16-18 lb spring with the tungsten guide rod. No lighter than 16 lb.
Actually a lighter recoil spring will reduce felt recoil, but is hard on the pistol frame. Try a 16-18 lb spring with the tungsten guide rod. No lighter than 16 lb.
Re: Taming Recoil on A 1911 Question
I've never shot the two side by side, so I can't say if it really works or not, but STI sells a lot of their guns with what they call a Recoil Master. It's essentially a captive dual-spring and recoil rod assembly. I'm also not sure if it requires any machining to get it to work in a standard frame or not.
My 40S&W STI 1911 came with the Recoil Master and I must say it is surprisingly soft shooting, but again I've not been able to compare it to a standard spring and guide rod setup.
I've never shot the two side by side, so I can't say if it really works or not, but STI sells a lot of their guns with what they call a Recoil Master. It's essentially a captive dual-spring and recoil rod assembly. I'm also not sure if it requires any machining to get it to work in a standard frame or not.
My 40S&W STI 1911 came with the Recoil Master and I must say it is surprisingly soft shooting, but again I've not been able to compare it to a standard spring and guide rod setup.
Re: Taming Recoil on A 1911 Question
I went through all that with one of my .45s and to reduce felt recoil go to a LIGHTER spring. I followed my thinking and put a heavier spring under the slide and lo and behold the felt recoil went through the roof. The less resistance the slide has during the recoil phase, the less felt recoil for the shooter.
When you lighten the spring, don't make it too light, especially with a Kimber alloy frame because you don't want the slide coming back too hard and eventually cracking the frame.
Another excellent way to cut down recoil is to hand load rounds with a lighter powder charge (not too light or they'll squib on you). I shoot USPSA competition so I have to worry about making major power factor, but my loads are as light as I can go and make major with about five pounds to spare for atmospherics. If you aren't worried about competition you can load them quite a bit lower, but still enough charge to cycle your action.
I went through all that with one of my .45s and to reduce felt recoil go to a LIGHTER spring. I followed my thinking and put a heavier spring under the slide and lo and behold the felt recoil went through the roof. The less resistance the slide has during the recoil phase, the less felt recoil for the shooter.
When you lighten the spring, don't make it too light, especially with a Kimber alloy frame because you don't want the slide coming back too hard and eventually cracking the frame.
Another excellent way to cut down recoil is to hand load rounds with a lighter powder charge (not too light or they'll squib on you). I shoot USPSA competition so I have to worry about making major power factor, but my loads are as light as I can go and make major with about five pounds to spare for atmospherics. If you aren't worried about competition you can load them quite a bit lower, but still enough charge to cycle your action.
Re: Taming Recoil on A 1911 Question
or a 1911 in 9mm
or a 1911 in 9mm
Re: Taming Recoil on A 1911 Question
I read your post and many of the responses. My wife is petite and loves to shoot my 1911. When we first went out to the range, we started off with a .22lr and she pointed at the 1911 and wanted to shoot that.
She has trouble chambering rounds, but we've found that by improving her hand strength, grip, and stance she does a great job of bettering many a man at the pistol range.
The 1911 is a robust gun, in my opinion your just not going to reduce the recoil appreciably for your lady unless you are shooting hand loads that might not always cycle the slide. Spending money and time replacing parts may not do the trick or be worth the effort.
Good luck and maybe steer her towards the long guns or a single action 9mm.
I read your post and many of the responses. My wife is petite and loves to shoot my 1911. When we first went out to the range, we started off with a .22lr and she pointed at the 1911 and wanted to shoot that.
She has trouble chambering rounds, but we've found that by improving her hand strength, grip, and stance she does a great job of bettering many a man at the pistol range.
The 1911 is a robust gun, in my opinion your just not going to reduce the recoil appreciably for your lady unless you are shooting hand loads that might not always cycle the slide. Spending money and time replacing parts may not do the trick or be worth the effort.
Good luck and maybe steer her towards the long guns or a single action 9mm.
Re: Taming Recoil on A 1911 Question
In my Kimber Gold Match II, I went with a 14lb spring from Wolfe and installed the shok buffers from Wilson Combat. I load a 180 gr bullet and will start off my load about .5 gr less then what the load data calls for. If the load is to soft it won't cycle the slide. Be sure to check the bore however, I've never had a bullet not leave the barrel.
I'll even load a couple of light loads to use when I practice, it helps you learn clearing a malfunction under shooting conditions.
In my Kimber Gold Match II, I went with a 14lb spring from Wolfe and installed the shok buffers from Wilson Combat. I load a 180 gr bullet and will start off my load about .5 gr less then what the load data calls for. If the load is to soft it won't cycle the slide. Be sure to check the bore however, I've never had a bullet not leave the barrel.
I'll even load a couple of light loads to use when I practice, it helps you learn clearing a malfunction under shooting conditions.
Re: Taming Recoil on A 1911 Question
We got a top-shelf 1911 (no name mentioned) sent to us for T&E and - being a bit of a 1911 gunsmith and afficianado for close to 20 years - I naturally had to put it through it's paces and noticed it was recoiling unusually bad, no matter the ammo i put through it.
Anyway - to make a long story short, I ended up tearing it down for a thorough inspection and noticed that the BBL link was camming over the slide-stop a bit and making the lugs on top of the BBL hit the inside of the slide. It added an unbelievable ammount of recoil to the gun. I was shocked that a $2K+ "hand-crafted" 1911 would ever be sent out the door with a problem like that.
Just something to think about.
We got a top-shelf 1911 (no name mentioned) sent to us for T&E and - being a bit of a 1911 gunsmith and afficianado for close to 20 years - I naturally had to put it through it's paces and noticed it was recoiling unusually bad, no matter the ammo i put through it.
Anyway - to make a long story short, I ended up tearing it down for a thorough inspection and noticed that the BBL link was camming over the slide-stop a bit and making the lugs on top of the BBL hit the inside of the slide. It added an unbelievable ammount of recoil to the gun. I was shocked that a $2K+ "hand-crafted" 1911 would ever be sent out the door with a problem like that.
Just something to think about.
