Suppressors TBAC 30p-1 will not thread on, please help!

[eric.s]

Hi,

My tax stamp just got approved today for my tbac 30p-1. When I got home to thread it on my barrels, it would catch and screw a couple of turns and then get to tight to the point where I would be really torquing it down possibly damage the threads. I tried this on both my factory rem 700 barrel and rainier ultra match barrel with 5/8-24 pi threads. The threads on the tbac appear to have some sort of bronze coat on it so I used brake cleaner on both the barrel and can threads = still no luck, would catch on, turn a couple of turns, start to get a lot tighter, and then way too tight about 1/4 way screwed on to the barrel. I emailed thunderbeast arms but I wanted to post this to see if anyone else had a similar issue and was able to resolve it. I know tbac has a tight thread tolerance but like I said if I try forcing it on any more it will probably start to strip the threads. Thanks in advance

 

[c ward]

The stuff you cleaned off was anti seize to keep the threads from galling .

Short answer are the barrel threads are out of spec , have them recut to spec . There is a drawing on their website.

 

[rjacobs]

TB cans use really really good threads(I think Class 3). Most other stuff(especially factory "thread" jobs) just arent that good and thus you have slight interference with a tight thread(class 3) and a looser thread(type 1, type 2).

TBac is active on here so I am sure they will reply either here or to your email(probably both).

 

[eric.s]

Yeah I just pm'd Zak. I forgot to mention that I have used other suppressors and thread protectors, muzzle brakes, etc. on both guns. So I would still need the barrels cut to a tighter spec (class 3)? then basically forget using any other product like my thread protectors or any other can?

 

[c ward]

Proper cut threads should work with everything, there is also a video on their website explaining threads as well .

 

[eric.s]

Oh ok cool, that's good to hear! I appreciate the reply's c ward and rjacobs. I guess I will be stopping by my local gunsmith tomorrow.

 

[Red343]

Ack!!! that would suck to get your baby home and not be able to screw it on. Dont try to force it on, it may not screw back off, Best to take it in to your local gun smith or send to TBAC to get it checked out. There are a few post on here where that has happened that might help you out. Zak will help you out, TBAC has awesome customer service from what I can tell here on sniperhide.

 

[eric.s]

Lol no kidding Red343!! It was honestly probably the happiest days of my life up until I tried screwing it on (my first can so don't judge me lol). I really hope my gunsmith will be able to resolve this issue soon because waiting to shoot with it after waiting almost a year for the tax stamp is pretty depressing.

 

[trophyhunter]

Could it be that the 30p-1 is threaded differently ?

I'm positive they sell other thread pitches so that could be the issue as well.

Regardless I'm sure TBAC gets you straight and you get to enjoy your can soon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Assault116]

They do offer it in two different metric threads as well, so I'd make sure that the threads in the can are actually 5/8 and not one of the metric versions.

 

[Zak Smith]

Sorry for the delayed response, I was on the road the last 7 hours. I got you in email and this is for everyoneelse's benefit as well.

I think I found your can in the system and it should have been 5/8-24, so no problems there.

c ward covered most of the stuff for me. The gold stuff is anti seize. It is there to prevent galling the first couple times it is installed, and to prevent seizing if the muzzle threads are too large (within reason anyway).

The most likely explanation is that the muzzle threads' pitch diameter is too large. Check out Thunder Beast Arms Corporation [TBAC] | Tech | THREAD SPECIFICATIONS
and there are some videos that explain what it means

We can for sure take a look at your can but we gauge them with GO/NO-GO gauges multiple times before they ship. The best thing to do at this point is to put a GO gauge over your muzzle threads and make sure it goes all the way to the shoulder. If that doesn't "go", then that's the problem. If it does, something else is going on.

Most times if everything else is OK but the thread pitch diameter is just a little too large it can be cleaned up by someone who knows what he's doing in about 5 minutes with a manual die.

Most thread protectors are cut loose, no reason to have them tight (same with brakes and f/h's).

 

[Zak Smith]

By the way, our "Spec" is nothing more than the exact Class 3A specs from the Machinery's Handbook for the thread dimensions themselves, along with reasonable thread length and shoulder dimensions. It's nothing special in that regard.

 

[Zak Smith]

Yeah I just pm'd Zak. I forgot to mention that I have used other suppressors and thread protectors, muzzle brakes, etc. on both guns. So I would still need the barrels cut to a tighter spec (class 3)? then basically forget using any other product like my thread protectors or any other can?

In this case "tighter" means that the fit is tighter. The clearance for class 2 threads is larger than the clearance for class 3 threads. There is no spec that permits a larger pitch diameter than a class 3a pitch (for external threads)-- class 2a would be a smaller pitch diameter to allow for more clearance. Hope that makes sense.

 

[eric.s]

Thanks Zak for getting back to me so quickly and clarifying everything. I will be taking my barrels over to the gunsmith tomorrow to see if they have the go/no go gauges for threads to check the pitch, along with bring the thread dimension chart you linked, to double check on that. If threads match up then I guess my next step will be to send it too you.

Thanks again

 

[SHWILL]

First let me say that I own three TBAC cans, and I love them. I have had a few friends having threading problems with the latest edition cans that TBAC are releasing. All the problems that I am aware of have been recent production cans. TBAC are good people, but I believe that they have a threading issue that they have not yet identified on the latest production units. I sincerely hope that this issue is resolved.

eric.s-----Please keep us updated on your findings.

 

[Zak Smith]

Thanks for the comment.

Threads are critical to the fit of a direct-thread attach suppressor. To loose and it may loosen under fire or may have a fit that is not precise. Too tight and - obvious problems. Every can we ship has multiple checks with a "GO" gauge to make sure the gauge screws all the way in, and multiple checks with a NO-GO to make sure there is the right amount of clearance. This procedure for us has not changed.

We do everything we can to ship suppressors that fit correctly on in-spec muzzle threads.

One challenge we face is that it seems like every gunsmith threads a little differently. That is the purpose of having our thread specs, but the reality is that most people do not have access to the instruments to check before screwing the suppressor on, and most of their rifles have already been threaded by someone already. It is very common to see threads that are large (a gunsmith who wants to give you a "nice tight fit"), or where the major diameter is right but the pitch diameter is still too large. There is also variation in how the shoulders (if present!) are cut, in addition to variations in the root cut.

In the case of the BA/CB series of suppressors, we've never had a BA/CB can seize or gall on the BA/CB mounts and get stuck. In this case we control both halves of the thread interface 100% and can ensure both sides meet the specs for those threads.

From time to time, we get cans back from people who got them stuck on a muzzle or a can that wouldn't go on a particular rifle (and good on them for stopping before it got stuck!). 99% of the time we can trace it back to a measurement on the muzzle threads that was over-sized. For the remaining 1%, as much as we try, we aren't perfect and if a thread issue slips through, we'll get it fixed as quickly as possible and take care of you.

 

[AED146]

The last sentence says it all their true commitment to their customers


AMF

 

[HodgdonExtreme]

Any gunsmith that cuts threads (which means all gunsmiths) should have one of these:

Machine Shop 2 - Lathes - Screw Thread Micrometer

It is not "optional".

 

[Killswitch Engage]

you can simply measure your barrel threads using thread wires and a mic. 5/8-24 unef class 3a should measure .6339 max over .024 wires. any gunsmith that has a lathe should have them. sometimes the crest of the thread can be cleaned up with 600grt emery cloth and it will sometimes go right on.

 

[p8nt]

In the past, I have found that thunderbeast has something up with their threads. I use a thread micrometer and typically cut a pitch of .596 on a 5/8-24 muzzle. Thunderbeast cans are the ONLY thing that has ever given me issues with fit. The few cans I have threaded for have all seemed to be undersize. My go gages will not go so I am left with two options, both make me cringe. I have to cut the threads on the muzzle under the min. pitch diameter or.....ekk chase the threads on the suppressor with a tap being sure to follow thunderbeast's undersized threads. I have leaned to the side of an undersized pitch. I can only speculate on what the problem seems to be but I question the quality control, calibration of their gages and integrity of the tooling used to cut the threads. I am guessing that they single point the threads on these cans, which is the best way IMHO.

 

[Zak Smith]

p8nt, if you ever have a go gauge that won't go in, just call us. We'll fix the can and we'd want to get to the bottom of why gauge "A" goes in but gauge "B" doesn't go in. (We replace ours periodically as they wear.) You're right that putting the muzzle threading under spec is not the best solution.

 

[p8nt]

Mr. Smith, I have no doubt that you guys want to produce the best product possible and I am in no way attacking your company. As a machinest I go through gages quite a bit and have confidence in the things I do, as I'm sure you do as well. I only ask you look at some of the things that has gone out in the past year to year and a half. In stating the things I have posted let me follow up that I would have no problem buying one of your threaded cans as I would inspect it and know that you would resolve any problems that arise.

 

[Backspace]

I stuck my TBAC 30P-1 the first time I ever tried to screw it on a rifle. It was a barrel threaded by GAP and the badger thruster fit perfectly. Got it to my Smith and he was able to remove it and cut the threads down ever so slightly. The can is great and the rifle shoots great with and without it. Just seems these are more prone to getting stuck than other cans. I now apply antisieze every time I install the can. It seems to help things.

 

[RonA]

p8nt, if you ever have a go gauge that won't go in, just call us. We'll fix the can and we'd want to get to the bottom of why gauge "A" goes in but gauge "B" doesn't go in. (We replace ours periodically as they wear.) You're right that putting the muzzle threading under spec is not the best solution.

Zak.
I highly recommend you have one of these in your inspection department. They aren't cheap, but they remove all doubt on thread size.

 

[Zak Smith]

Thread micrometers, thread wires, we got it all..
Shane explains thread fit video

 

[HodgdonExtreme]

Zak.
I highly recommend you have one of these in your inspection department. They aren't cheap, but they remove all doubt on thread size.

Is there an echo in here?

Also, a pitch mic isn't much help for inspecting internal threads.

 

[RonA]

Is there an echo in here?

Also, a pitch mic isn't much help for inspecting internal threads.

Sorry for the repeat. The bad thing about internal threads is that you can't check the profile on the optical comparator or under a microscope. Gauges are about all you can do once you've established that your tools are properly mounted in the machine. Gauges can wear, and the pitch mic can let you know their condition.
Years ago I got into the habit of making my offset changes during setup on the geometry page so that the wear page can be monitored at a glance to see if there have been any large changes. If it jumps more than .001 on the wear page over a short period of time, there's a good chance you've chipped a tool. ID threading inserts are only $6 or so per corner so keeping them in good shape isn't a big deal.

 

[eric.s]

Update on situation - My suppressor arrived today at Thunderbeast Arms. Got a call an hr after it arrived, according to UPS, from William with TBAC, explaining the situation. Apparently there was a bur in the the third thread that was probably caused from my over sized threads on my stock rem barrel (apparently it doesn't take much force to cause it, on fresh threads) This would explain why it was not threading on any other rifle either. He said he cleaned it up and re checked with a go and no gauge and told me I had two options: Basically get it completely re threaded or get it overnight shipped to me today. He told me that with the threads cleaned up and checked, it will thread on fine with a class 3 thread spec, so I went with that option. On top of that he said he would personally get my threads fixed at just the cost of using the shop machines in order to help me if I couldn't find a competent gunsmith. So even though my experience has sucked ass...Thunderbeast's customer service has been some of the best I've ever dealt with, period. I will keep everyone posted after I get my barrels re-threaded.

 

[eric.s]

She fits!

 

[Jig Stick]

WTF are you doing at home on the computer posting on Snipershide? Get to the range and shoot that thang!!! My 30P absolutely rocks on my 300winmag. People at the range can't believe I'm shooting full power magnum loads from it.

 

[eric.s]

WTF are you doing at home on the computer posting on Snipershide? Get to the range and shoot that thang!!! My 30P absolutely rocks on my 300winmag. People at the range can't believe I'm shooting full power magnum loads from it.

Lol I'm working up loads for them atm. Taking them out this Thursday, to do ladder test.

 

[Enough Said]

Always thread the can on your rifle before starting the Form 4 process and you will never be waiting for threads to be cut again.

 

[sigma2chi]

Always thread the can on your rifle before starting the Form 4 process and you will never be waiting for threads to be cut again.

EXACTLY what I did. Went in to buy an AAC can and it wouldn't fit my threads. Tried the Innovative Arms can and it fit perfectly so that's what I bought.