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Gunsmithing Think I may have screwed up...

Sixfivesavage

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 30, 2013
2,388
1,640
Maryland
Well, it's not that bad. At worst I still have a good stock and a good action. What happened was I started gathering parts for another build. I'm pretty excited since its my first from a custom action, a used defiance rebel off of another member. Second thing i picked up was my m24 Bartlein 5R 6.5 blank fom bug holes. All good there since I already had a Lapua reamer. Then I found a good deal on a manners mini chassis from a member. Here's where the problem is...I thought that the defiance rebel would drop in to the stock since its a Remington footprint. It does...well, as long as the bolt handle is up. Do I have any options besides A. Dremel which I don't want to do...B. have manners re-inlet or C. Just get a Remington action or new gun and drop it in for now and save the defiance? Is there anything else I'm not thinking of that can be done to make it work? New bolt handle? This is what I get for not researching enough and not wanting to wait on ordering a stock.
 
Defiance should be able to make you a swept handled bolt. I don't know how much milling would be required to make the stock work. So if you haven't chambered it, I'd go the new bolt route.

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Well, here is the deal. I called manners today first since I was thinking it would be the easiest fix. Since it is a mini chassis I'm pretty much dead in the water unless I want to go to work on it with a dremel myself, or let my smith work on it when he screws it all together. Next I called defiance to see if they could do anything. Springingly they told me the same thing, take a dremel to the bolt handle since they leave them plenty big and I don't have to worry about weakening in. I was kinda surprised to hear that from them. They did say that I could send it back to them and they would be able to get something done to make it go. I know it would be a pain for them to have to stop the mill and work my bolt, so I doubt I will go that route. I'm not too keen on dremeling anything on the stock or action, even though it isn't much, so I'm thinking my best option is just wait till I can get a remington action to stick in the manners and hold on to the defiance till I find a stock for it. All in all I'm kinda bummed since I thought I would be close to putting this thing together, but its my own fault. I learned from it at least.
 
Oh, I don't know....if it would only take a slight amount of Option A ( dremel ) to the stock around the bolt inlet to get the bolt to drop, I'd VERY carefully lightly work it with the Dremel, maybe add a little Marine Tex or Devcon to accommodate the straighter bolt, and then final sand it with very fine sand paper. Careful contouring can make it look like factory, I'd bet. A final polish or paint blending and you should be good to go.
 
Is your defiance action the one that is the same length as a remington or does it have an extra .25" added in the front?

If it is the same length as a remmy you can just modify the bolt handle inlet with a dremel and files/sandpaper. You will also need to cut the ejection port inlet longer and cut a spot for the side bolt release.

However, if your action is the longer version you are basically dead in the water because you will need to move the recoil lug slot forward .25" and use bedding compound and basically do a "lug bed" to fill in the gap and give it a good recoil shoulder. Not to mention that Manners minichassis doesn't have enough material to cut that far forward.

I hope you have the shorter of the two.

Ern (GAP)
 
Is your defiance action the one that is the same length as a remington or does it have an extra .25" added in the front?

If it is the same length as a remmy you can just modify the bolt handle inlet with a dremel and files/sandpaper. You will also need to cut the ejection port inlet longer and cut a spot for the side bolt release.

However, if your action is the longer version you are basically dead in the water because you will need to move the recoil lug slot forward .25" and use bedding compound and basically do a "lug bed" to fill in the gap and give it a good recoil shoulder. Not to mention that Manners minichassis doesn't have enough material to cut that far forward.

I hope you have the shorter of the two.

Ern (GAP)

Yea, its the Remington footprint. The shorter version. So everything you say, I will have to do.
 
i know it sounds scary cutting on your expensive stock but take your time and only trim where needed. i do this almost daily, my pointers are get a good flashlight to check bolt handle clearance and get an assortment of round files in the same radius as the action openings (bolt release, ejection port). If memory serves me right 3/16 and 3/8. Also use good technique for sanding, use a form (files, dowel round, etc.) behind the paper or you will round the edges pretty bad since your finger tip is soft.

Don't be afraid to file a little on the aluminum chassis in the bolt handle inlet area, the weird shape of the defiance action bolt handle does tend to touch there.

It is a pretty easy task and definitely not worth paying shipping both ways to have someone else do it.

Post some pics after you get done.

Ern (GAP)
 
i know it sounds scary cutting on your expensive stock but take your time and only trim where needed. i do this almost daily, my pointers are get a good flashlight to check bolt handle clearance and get an assortment of round files in the same radius as the action openings (bolt release, ejection port). If memory serves me right 3/16 and 3/8. Also use good technique for sanding, use a form (files, dowel round, etc.) behind the paper or you will round the edges pretty bad since your finger tip is soft.

Don't be afraid to file a little on the aluminum chassis in the bolt handle inlet area, the weird shape of the defiance action bolt handle does tend to touch there.

It is a pretty easy task and definitely not worth paying shipping both ways to have someone else do it.

Post some pics after you get done.

Ern (GAP)


Thanks for the encouragement. I was leaning more and more towards this all day long, and I think this is the route I'm gonna go. I put the action in the stock last night and kept looking at it and it really doesn't look like much work. The only hang up I had was the chassis to handle clearance at the bottom of the stock inlet. I wasn't sure how much, if any, aluminum would need to come off. The only other thing I don't really like is there seems to be a small gap between action and stock along the bottom of the ejection port. I'm hoping it closes up when the action is torqued down and it doesn't collect all kinds of junk and foul up magazines.
 
I just took some material off a McMillan bolt notch. I used a tapered stone and put the Dremel on LOW. Take your time and be extra careful when you get near the edges b/c the bit can jump out of the notch and booger your stock. fng's method with files and sandpaper is probably safer.
 
I just took some material off a McMillan bolt notch. I used a tapered stone and put the Dremel on LOW. Take your time and be extra careful when you get near the edges b/c the bit can jump out of the notch and booger your stock. fng's method with files and sandpaper is probably safer.


Thanks for the info. I will defiantly heed the advise.
 
Everyone stop! Do not use a Dremel, a Dremel is not a gunsmithing tool. Use a rasp, do it right.

A Dremel will fuck up a gun in a heartbeat.
 
Well, here is the deal. I called manners today first since I was thinking it would be the easiest fix. Since it is a mini chassis I'm pretty much dead in the water unless I want to go to work on it with a dremel myself, or let my smith work on it when he screws it all together. Next I called defiance to see if they could do anything. Springingly they told me the same thing, take a dremel to the bolt handle since they leave them plenty big and I don't have to worry about weakening in. I was kinda surprised to hear that from them. They did say that I could send it back to them and they would be able to get something done to make it go. I know it would be a pain for them to have to stop the mill and work my bolt, so I doubt I will go that route. I'm not too keen on dremeling anything on the stock or action, even though it isn't much, so I'm thinking my best option is just wait till I can get a remington action to stick in the manners and hold on to the defiance till I find a stock for it. All in all I'm kinda bummed since I thought I would be close to putting this thing together, but its my own fault. I learned from it at least.
Hi Sixfivesavage, Not sure if I am following you, but I hope no one from the office told you to take a dremel to your action. If so please let me know who it was. The correct response from the office should have been to send it in. We can change the bolt notch inlet in your stock in just a few minutes, once you get it you will not be able to tell what we did and it will look like new. There is no cost to do this. Let me know and I will get you fixed up asap. Thank you very much,
 
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Hi Sixfivesavage, Not sure if I am following you, but I hope no one from the office told you to take a dremel to your action. If so please let me know who it was. The correct response from the office should have been to send it in. We can change the bolt notch inlet in your stock in just a few minutes, once you get it you will not be able to tell what we did and it will look like new. There is no cost to do this. Let me know and I will get you fixed up asap. Thank you very much,

Dang, is that customer service, or what?
 
Hi Sixfivesavage, Not sure if I am following you, but I hope no one from the office told you to take a dremel to your action. If so please let me know who it was. The correct response from the office should have been to send it in. We can change the bolt notch inlet in your stock in just a few minutes, once you get it you will not be able to tell what we did and it will look like new. There is no cost to do this. Let me know and I will get you fixed up asap. Thank you very much,

No, no! I didn't catch the name of who I spoke with, but they didn't tell me to dremel my bolt handle. They did tell me to file it or dremel it myself to make it work though. Or have my smith do it when I complete the build. Oddly enough, defiance is the one who told me to take a dremel to the bolt handle. I definitely was not told to send it to you and that it was going to be easy. I was actually told it would not be that easy, or maybe even possible since it is a mini chassis. Truth be told, I wasn't really shocked by the response even though I know you have an exemplary record of customer service. I had already assumed nothing could be done before I called, so I wasn't surprised at all. Hearing from you is sweet as candy, even more so since I actually just bought a couple files today planning on doing this myself. Obviously, I would much rather you guys do it. I will be calling tomorrow!

Thanks so much!
 
Tom Manners and his crew are the best!!!

I have an early T4 that has been well used. It ended up with a hair line crack at the front sling swivel stud. Possibly due to the owner (me) over tightening his bipod on it for too many years. I get in touch with shop. They tell me send it in. Not only do they fix it gratis, they repainted it, upgraded the flush cups and added a Badger rail. Cost me price of the rail and shipping.

I could not be happier or more impressed.

Met a few of the crew and Mr. Manners himself last time I was in KC. Got to see the folder with mini chassis, laminated multi colors, and a few carbon shells fresh out of the molds. My next and future stocks will all be Manners with out a doubt!