Suppressors Thread/Removal of Barrel

[jblack]

Ok, I have searched the forum to no avail in finding my answer so if this is a repeat question, then Im sorry.
I have three bolt guns, .223 Rem 700 LTR, .308 HS Precision LTR, 300WM custom with Obermeyer Barrel. all three of which shoot lights out with the 30 cal's shooting an easy 1/2 MOA or less.
I am wanting to thread to accept the SUREFIRE Muzzle Brake which will inturn be used to accept the SUREFIRE SOCOM CAN.
My question to the masses is this;
1. Does the barrel have to be removed from the action in order to thread?
2. If barrel is removed, does this effect the accuracy?
3. Will barrel/action be able to return to its original accuracy?
3. Is there a way that the barrel is reinstalled with the same head space and return to the same location in the receiver?
4. Am I making more out of this than the accuracy is worth?

Thanks in advance. I am asking this as I like so many of you here have spent thousands of dollars on very nice custom tools and I for one do not want to damage of detrack with any noticable results the accuracy of these firearms.

Again Thanks,

 

[stik]

My gunsmith removed my barrels to thread them. There was no loss of accuracy on either rifle. I am pretty sure that he marked the barrels and returned them to the same position after threading them.

 

[EL34]

My experience is limited to .223 Rem. chambered bolt guns w/ a can, but I don't believe that my barrel was removed for threading. Not sure about your other questions. I will say that the weight of the suppressor can affect barrel harmonics, requireing you to have two zeros.
After the new wore off of it, I wouldn't do it again, centerfire cans really aren't that quite, still require ear pro, add weight, can affect zero, etc. For me I'll stick with .22, and pistol cailiber cans.

 

[bengineer]

1. No, with exceptions like lever guns where action won't fit in lathe.
2. Maybe, but not necessarily. It went into the action, right?
3. Yes.
4. Yes.
5. Yes and no.

Just find a machinist who will NOT turn between centers. The shoulder for the can (or mount in your case) MUST be concentric with the muzzle. If you can't find this, PM me and I will hook you up.

 

[wfjames22]

FWIW, I had some shitty threads get cut on the muzzle of one of my R700's in 260 by the gunsmith that built it. I got it before my first stamp had cleared the ATF so I didn't know until I had worked up a load and shot it about 300x that the can wouldn't screw on. I was pissed to say the least. One of my suppressor dealer's other customers (who is a machinist by trade and a hobby smith) was present when this was discovered. He had me break down the rifle completely to the bare barreled action and bring it to his house. His lathe wasn't big enough to leave the barrel attached to the action, so we had to pull the barrel off to thread the muzzle.

He re-installed the barrel and then I took it back home where I re-installed the trigger, scope base, scope and put it back into the stock. I ran out to the range and I was shocked to see that at 100yds, the first round was about 1" high and .5" right. I zeroed the rifle, screwed the can on and then proceeded to shoot a five shot group. The group was the smallest group I had ever shot with that rifle and load, just under .3MOA. The shift from the zero I had just attained to five shot group with the can on was about .5MOA low and dead on horizontally.

Long story short, if you use someone who knows what they are doing, you shouldn't have any problems with what you are proposing.