Does anybody know a gunsmith that can do a good job on my FNSPRa1? I need it threaded for suppressor. It shoots a .5moa with smk hpbt's I don't want it messed up. I'm going to purchase an AAC 762 SD within the next year. (Any other recommendations?) I want it ready with QD by then.
Gunsmithing Threading for suppressor:
- Thread starter 10-23GreenShooter
- Start date
Re: Threading for suppressor:
For best accuracy potential, the 762-SD is not the best choice from the AAC product line. The Cyclone will typically perform better on a bolt-action host.
Regarding threading, I agree it is best to send it to a well regarded, competent gunsmith.
Mark
For best accuracy potential, the 762-SD is not the best choice from the AAC product line. The Cyclone will typically perform better on a bolt-action host.
Regarding threading, I agree it is best to send it to a well regarded, competent gunsmith.
Mark
Re: Threading for suppressor:
If we knew where you were located, we may be able to offer suggestions for a good gunsmith in your area.
If we knew where you were located, we may be able to offer suggestions for a good gunsmith in your area.
Re: Threading for suppressor:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BookHound</div><div class="ubbcode-body">For best accuracy potential, the 762-SD is not the best choice from the AAC product line. The Cyclone will typically perform better on a bolt-action host.
Regarding threading, I agree it is best to send it to a well regarded, competent gunsmith.
Mark </div></div>
I will disagree. The 762-SD does just fine in the accuracy department. I have one on my GAP Valkyrie and its easily a .5MOA shooter all the time. I also have the 51t model on a Gap built barreled action in a McRee Chassis and it will hold .5MOA all the time.
While the Cyclone does produce better suppression and tone, the accuracy comes from the rifle and ammo. Some of which is going to be determined by your loads used. I find no difference in accuracy with my 762SD, Cyclone, or Cyclone K. If you were to toss a TBAC 30P-1 in there, well that is a different story.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BookHound</div><div class="ubbcode-body">For best accuracy potential, the 762-SD is not the best choice from the AAC product line. The Cyclone will typically perform better on a bolt-action host.
Regarding threading, I agree it is best to send it to a well regarded, competent gunsmith.
Mark </div></div>
I will disagree. The 762-SD does just fine in the accuracy department. I have one on my GAP Valkyrie and its easily a .5MOA shooter all the time. I also have the 51t model on a Gap built barreled action in a McRee Chassis and it will hold .5MOA all the time.
While the Cyclone does produce better suppression and tone, the accuracy comes from the rifle and ammo. Some of which is going to be determined by your loads used. I find no difference in accuracy with my 762SD, Cyclone, or Cyclone K. If you were to toss a TBAC 30P-1 in there, well that is a different story.
Re: Threading for suppressor:
Thanks for the advice on GAP. Looks like what I want. Found a good smith here in VA, he wants 255 just for thread job, he does pr's and br's. Found another place the does suppressors, but.... I think GAP will be where I get it threaded...now to wait 3 months...
Still interested in suppressor advice. Thanks
Thanks for the advice on GAP. Looks like what I want. Found a good smith here in VA, he wants 255 just for thread job, he does pr's and br's. Found another place the does suppressors, but.... I think GAP will be where I get it threaded...now to wait 3 months...
Still interested in suppressor advice. Thanks
Re: Threading for suppressor:
I can have it back in less than 2 weeks.
Rate for threading a muzzle (for a can) is $75.00
Fitting a brake/adapter is $125.00
Thread protectors: $45.00
Sample of our threading work:
Tennons:
Muzzles/Brakes:
Now you see it:
Now you don't:
I can have it back in less than 2 weeks.
Rate for threading a muzzle (for a can) is $75.00
Fitting a brake/adapter is $125.00
Thread protectors: $45.00
Sample of our threading work:
Tennons:
Muzzles/Brakes:
Now you see it:
Now you don't:
Re: Threading for suppressor:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MasterChef</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm going to purchase an AAC 762 SD within the next year. (<span style="font-weight: bold">Any other recommendations</span>?) I want it ready with QD by then. </div></div>
I'd recommend the S.A.S. line of suppressors over the AAC. I have an older 18 tooth setup that doesn't lock up 100% on some of my mounts. I also have a friend with the new 51 tooth mount and it's really no better.
SAS has 2 types of muzzle attachments that offer you a muzzle brake when you're not running the can. Stacey from mile high shooting is a dealer for them and can talk you through the differences.
If you know which can you're going to run, make sure you supply the "QD" mount to the smith that is threading your barrel. They will time your attachment when they thread the barrel.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MasterChef</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm going to purchase an AAC 762 SD within the next year. (<span style="font-weight: bold">Any other recommendations</span>?) I want it ready with QD by then. </div></div>
I'd recommend the S.A.S. line of suppressors over the AAC. I have an older 18 tooth setup that doesn't lock up 100% on some of my mounts. I also have a friend with the new 51 tooth mount and it's really no better.
SAS has 2 types of muzzle attachments that offer you a muzzle brake when you're not running the can. Stacey from mile high shooting is a dealer for them and can talk you through the differences.
If you know which can you're going to run, make sure you supply the "QD" mount to the smith that is threading your barrel. They will time your attachment when they thread the barrel.
Re: Threading for suppressor:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Goin'Hot</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MasterChef</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm going to purchase an AAC 762 SD within the next year. (<span style="font-weight: bold">Any other recommendations</span>?) I want it ready with QD by then. </div></div>
I'd recommend the S.A.S. line of suppressors over the AAC. I have an older 18 tooth setup that doesn't lock up 100% on some of my mounts.<span style="color: #FF0000"> I also have a friend with the new 51 tooth mount and it's really no better.
</span>
SAS has 2 types of muzzle attachments that offer you a muzzle brake when you're not running the can. Stacey from mile high shooting is a dealer for them and can talk you through the differences.
If you know which can you're going to run, make sure you supply the "QD" mount to the smith that is threading your barrel. They will time your attachment when they thread the barrel. </div></div>
If it's "no better" then a 18t then something is very wrong with it. Because your statement is not correct. I have an 18t can from them and the newer 51t locking model. They both lock up fine on my mounts and rifle. The 51t can be hard to get off sometimes because it locks up so tight. Especially with a little carbon fouling, that stuff is like powdered loctite!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Goin'Hot</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MasterChef</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm going to purchase an AAC 762 SD within the next year. (<span style="font-weight: bold">Any other recommendations</span>?) I want it ready with QD by then. </div></div>
I'd recommend the S.A.S. line of suppressors over the AAC. I have an older 18 tooth setup that doesn't lock up 100% on some of my mounts.<span style="color: #FF0000"> I also have a friend with the new 51 tooth mount and it's really no better.
</span>
SAS has 2 types of muzzle attachments that offer you a muzzle brake when you're not running the can. Stacey from mile high shooting is a dealer for them and can talk you through the differences.
If you know which can you're going to run, make sure you supply the "QD" mount to the smith that is threading your barrel. They will time your attachment when they thread the barrel. </div></div>
If it's "no better" then a 18t then something is very wrong with it. Because your statement is not correct. I have an 18t can from them and the newer 51t locking model. They both lock up fine on my mounts and rifle. The 51t can be hard to get off sometimes because it locks up so tight. Especially with a little carbon fouling, that stuff is like powdered loctite!
Re: Threading for suppressor:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If it's "no better" then a 18t then something is very wrong with it. Because your statement is not correct. I have an 18t can from them and the newer 51t locking model. They both lock up fine on my mounts and rifle. The 51t can be hard to get off sometimes because it locks up so tight. Especially with a little carbon fouling, that stuff is like powdered loctite! </div></div>
Well, it truly is no better. He has gotten used to tightening the can down to the shoulder (which I now do on my 18 tooth) and not relying on the teeth to hold the can tight. His "spring" sits about 3/4 away from engaging the next tooth. Just tightening down to his final engagment notch allow the can to wiggle a fair amount. I would have expected the mount to have a more positive lockup.
I get different lockup on my 18 tooth mounts. Some are better than others so they must not have 100% manufacture repeatability during process.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If it's "no better" then a 18t then something is very wrong with it. Because your statement is not correct. I have an 18t can from them and the newer 51t locking model. They both lock up fine on my mounts and rifle. The 51t can be hard to get off sometimes because it locks up so tight. Especially with a little carbon fouling, that stuff is like powdered loctite! </div></div>
Well, it truly is no better. He has gotten used to tightening the can down to the shoulder (which I now do on my 18 tooth) and not relying on the teeth to hold the can tight. His "spring" sits about 3/4 away from engaging the next tooth. Just tightening down to his final engagment notch allow the can to wiggle a fair amount. I would have expected the mount to have a more positive lockup.
I get different lockup on my 18 tooth mounts. Some are better than others so they must not have 100% manufacture repeatability during process.
Re: Threading for suppressor:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pyplynr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How much barrel has to be cut to thread for a suppressor and with a matched thread protector. My bbl is 26" long. What would be the length after the threading and matched protector? </div></div>
You thread the existing barrel so, no length is removed.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pyplynr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How much barrel has to be cut to thread for a suppressor and with a matched thread protector. My bbl is 26" long. What would be the length after the threading and matched protector? </div></div>
You thread the existing barrel so, no length is removed.
Re: Threading for suppressor:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pyplynr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How much barrel has to be cut to thread for a suppressor and with a matched thread protector. My bbl is 26" long. What would be the length after the threading and matched protector? </div></div>
Assuming I understood what your trying to say:
Typical threads on a muzzle run between .500 and .600 from the face of the crown to the shoulder the can squares up on. In most instances the can manufacturers do not machine the female thread with a counterbore.
Your overall barrel length doesn't need to change unless you want it to. Just be sure you stay ahead of 16" to be in compliance with the NFA rules.
This is a source of irritation for me at times because it'll require an undercut thread right at the shoulder. Otherwise you end up with a can/thread protector that won't shoulder up because you can't machine a full thread form to the intersection between the cylinder/shoulder of the barrel. There must be a clearance somewhere in order for it to work.
Whenever possible I machine the counterbore in the can/thread protector/adapter to avoid this little annoyance. I like as much material left on the barrel as possible. Not a deal breaker, just one of my (and a few others) little "tics" regarding fitting this stuff.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pyplynr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How much barrel has to be cut to thread for a suppressor and with a matched thread protector. My bbl is 26" long. What would be the length after the threading and matched protector? </div></div>
Assuming I understood what your trying to say:
Typical threads on a muzzle run between .500 and .600 from the face of the crown to the shoulder the can squares up on. In most instances the can manufacturers do not machine the female thread with a counterbore.
Your overall barrel length doesn't need to change unless you want it to. Just be sure you stay ahead of 16" to be in compliance with the NFA rules.
This is a source of irritation for me at times because it'll require an undercut thread right at the shoulder. Otherwise you end up with a can/thread protector that won't shoulder up because you can't machine a full thread form to the intersection between the cylinder/shoulder of the barrel. There must be a clearance somewhere in order for it to work.
Whenever possible I machine the counterbore in the can/thread protector/adapter to avoid this little annoyance. I like as much material left on the barrel as possible. Not a deal breaker, just one of my (and a few others) little "tics" regarding fitting this stuff.
Re: Threading for suppressor:
Nice photos and work, Mr. Dixon!
All I can say is DO NOT take it to someone who does not have a stellar reputation. Ship it if necessary and get it done right the first time. I tried the local route and had strikes on the first baffle - eventually got the barrel cut and rethreaded, a new baffle stack pressed in, and the can refinished for no more than the original quoted price, but it took months and some negotiation and shipping the rifle and can to YHM.
Nice photos and work, Mr. Dixon!
All I can say is DO NOT take it to someone who does not have a stellar reputation. Ship it if necessary and get it done right the first time. I tried the local route and had strikes on the first baffle - eventually got the barrel cut and rethreaded, a new baffle stack pressed in, and the can refinished for no more than the original quoted price, but it took months and some negotiation and shipping the rifle and can to YHM.
Re: Threading for suppressor:
Thank y
all. Mr. Dixon, my buddy all ready sent me a recommendation for you. As soon as I have the qd in Ill be making my decision. Ill keep yall posted.
Thank y
all. Mr. Dixon, my buddy all ready sent me a recommendation for you. As soon as I have the qd in Ill be making my decision. Ill keep yall posted.
Re: Threading for suppressor:
A lot of good information, and beautiful threads for sure-
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C. Dixon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Typical threads on a muzzle run between .500 and .600 from the face of the crown to the shoulder the can squares up on.
</div></div>
1/2x28 industry standard threads for the .22lr are .400" length. On pistols AFAIK .430" is the std length. ~.625-.630" length is the std Ar-15 thread length.
The 5/8x24 rifle threads are typically .630" length.
On that "to relieve or not relieve the male (barrel) thread topic:
The most compatible barrel thread will be one that has a relief cut. It is the best way to do the job from the perspective of mounting a suppressor or any alignment critical device that you do not make yourself.
A lot of good information, and beautiful threads for sure-
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C. Dixon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Typical threads on a muzzle run between .500 and .600 from the face of the crown to the shoulder the can squares up on.
</div></div>
1/2x28 industry standard threads for the .22lr are .400" length. On pistols AFAIK .430" is the std length. ~.625-.630" length is the std Ar-15 thread length.
The 5/8x24 rifle threads are typically .630" length.
On that "to relieve or not relieve the male (barrel) thread topic:
The most compatible barrel thread will be one that has a relief cut. It is the best way to do the job from the perspective of mounting a suppressor or any alignment critical device that you do not make yourself.
Re: Threading for suppressor:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Goin'Hot</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If it's "no better" then a 18t then something is very wrong with it. Because your statement is not correct. I have an 18t can from them and the newer 51t locking model. They both lock up fine on my mounts and rifle. The 51t can be hard to get off sometimes because it locks up so tight. Especially with a little carbon fouling, that stuff is like powdered loctite! </div></div>
Well, it truly is no better. He has gotten used to tightening the can down to the shoulder (which I now do on my 18 tooth) and not relying on the teeth to hold the can tight. His "spring" sits about 3/4 away from engaging the next tooth. Just tightening down to his final engagment notch allow the can to wiggle a fair amount. I would have expected the mount to have a more positive lockup.
I get different lockup on my 18 tooth mounts. Some are better than others so they must not have 100% manufacture repeatability during process. </div></div>
I agree. There is NO consistency in their muzzle brakes. Some are nice and tight, others are sloppy. I have had to send a few back due to them being to bad out of spec.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Goin'Hot</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: KYS338</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If it's "no better" then a 18t then something is very wrong with it. Because your statement is not correct. I have an 18t can from them and the newer 51t locking model. They both lock up fine on my mounts and rifle. The 51t can be hard to get off sometimes because it locks up so tight. Especially with a little carbon fouling, that stuff is like powdered loctite! </div></div>
Well, it truly is no better. He has gotten used to tightening the can down to the shoulder (which I now do on my 18 tooth) and not relying on the teeth to hold the can tight. His "spring" sits about 3/4 away from engaging the next tooth. Just tightening down to his final engagment notch allow the can to wiggle a fair amount. I would have expected the mount to have a more positive lockup.
I get different lockup on my 18 tooth mounts. Some are better than others so they must not have 100% manufacture repeatability during process. </div></div>
I agree. There is NO consistency in their muzzle brakes. Some are nice and tight, others are sloppy. I have had to send a few back due to them being to bad out of spec.
Re: Threading for suppressor:
I have to agree with AAC mounts. They seem to have a lot of slop. I have 3 M4-2000 moounts and one fits my can like a glove. One is so loose that it won't even get close to the last notch and one is somewhere in the middle. Either way, 2 of 3 mounts leave a can with some wobble in it.
I have a SCAR H SD that is going on a precision rifle in the future so we will see how that goes.
Another thing that pretty much sucks is availability...good luck getting something that isn't a part for a current can like one of the older 18 tooth mounts or the brake for the SCAR cans that exists on paper only...
I used to be a big AAC fan but now not so much.
I have to agree with AAC mounts. They seem to have a lot of slop. I have 3 M4-2000 moounts and one fits my can like a glove. One is so loose that it won't even get close to the last notch and one is somewhere in the middle. Either way, 2 of 3 mounts leave a can with some wobble in it.
I have a SCAR H SD that is going on a precision rifle in the future so we will see how that goes.
Another thing that pretty much sucks is availability...good luck getting something that isn't a part for a current can like one of the older 18 tooth mounts or the brake for the SCAR cans that exists on paper only...
I used to be a big AAC fan but now not so much.
