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Thumler"s Tumbler Model B...

RLinNH

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 23, 2019
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I have been using my Dry Media Tumbler for a little over a year now. I am going to keep it, but I would like to try wet tumbling. I have decided on the Thumler's Tumbler Model B. I have a few questions though...
-Where do you get the Stainless Steel Media?
-Does the Stainless Steel media get caught in the primer pockets as much as dry media does(seems as if 50% of cases with the dry media have media in the flash holes. Hence, I dry tumble with the spent primers in place)?
-How long do you wet tumble for your best results? I have heard that you can actually wet tumble to long?

Thanks in advance. And on that note, I'm off to clean 260 small primer pockets from my .223 Star Line brass that was tumbled and deprimed last night...:sleep:
 
I’ve wet tumbled for years, it’s a huge difference over dry.

Use a 9mm-45 case of lemi shine and a couple teaspoons worth of dawn or similar dish liquid; TBH I don’t actually measure. After 45 minutes to two hours brass is clean to include primer pockets usually. about 10% of 5.56 will get media stuck in the primer flash hole. This hasn’t happened with any of my large primer brass.

I don’t think you can over do it, this isn’t annealing.

You can make your own reasonably priced I have the CNC cutter file and list of supplies required.

You’ll want to invest in an adjustable dehydrator or a heat gun to get them completely dry in a reasonable amount of time.
 
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I have been wet tumbling with the Frankford Platinum wet tumbler for 3-4 years and it comes with the SS media. I use a Dillon media separator to separate the pins and water which works very well. I have cleaned well over 10,000 pieces of brass pistol & rifle and have never gotten SS media stuck in a primer pocket or hole. I have had 3 or 4 pins get crosswise in the mouth of 223 brass. I used to clean too long but now limit it to about 45 minutes using the same formula that E-tool mentions. I have even cleaned without the SS media and it still does a good job but not quite as shiney. I use the Lyman case dryer to speed the drying process.
 
Lemi shine, spoonful of dish soap, and stainless media works awesome in a thumblers 👍
 
i've only used my thumlers tumbler for 223 at present. we don't have lemishine here so i substitute with citric acid and also use dish soap as mentioned. i only use 1kg of pins and only put in 200 cases at a time. takes about half hour for them to be squeaky clean. some primer pockets need a little touch up if one wants them like new. motor heats up a tad so i run a small desk fan blowing on the motor. you might also need some soft sticky pads as feet so it keep the noise down from the metal rattling on a table or floor while tumbling.

you'll need one of these also to separate the pins. i use the lyman one but you can pick whichever.

1606788552179.jpeg
 
i've only used my thumlers tumbler for 223 at present. we don't have lemishine here so i substitute with citric acid and also use dish soap as mentioned. i only use 1kg of pins and only put in 200 cases at a time. takes about half hour for them to be squeaky clean. some primer pockets need a little touch up if one wants them like new. motor heats up a tad so i run a small desk fan blowing on the motor. you might also need some soft sticky pads as feet so it keep the noise down from the metal rattling on a table or floor while tumbling.

you'll need one of these also to separate the pins. i use the lyman one but you can pick whichever.

View attachment 7487871

forgot to mention the separator :). Good call!
 
these are the sorts of results you should expect. mixed bucket has Federal and Winchester brass. i also use a towel to dry them somewhat before putting them in the lyman dryer for an hour.
disclaimer: individual results may vary :ROFLMAO:
 

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Stainless media can be had from online retailers that sell reloading gear, from eBay, Amazon, and the online storefronts of the tumbler makers like STM.

I do not have a problem with pins sticking in the flash holes, but they can stick in the necks. The most common size of pins that most tumbling media vendors sell tend to stick in 6.5mm necks.

Pins will stick in primers. Jerry Miculek doesn't deprime before he wet tumbles so he says he disfavors the pins because they break decapping pins, and he uses stainless steel chips instead from "Southern Shine Media." I bought some of those but found they etch the cases (they're very sharp) and they're hard to clean up -- some of the chips are very tiny and light almost like grit or dust and in the slurry they stick to stuff. The pins, on the other hand, are individually heavy enough they stay neat. I bought the chips just for my 6.5mm cases so I don't have to pick pins out of the necks, but I think I hate cleaning up the grit just as much. It does clean up with a neodymium magnet.

With the pins, I find I don't even need the magnet. I just use a Frnk. Arsn. sieve type separator over a 5 gallon bucket and hot water. Hot water seems to make the pins come away from the brass whereas cold water makes them stick to the brass. I believe temperature affects the surface tension and film strength of the water.

I decap before I tumble because water sticks in the primers and leaves the primer pockets wet which causes misfires and squib loads. You can avoid this by baking the brass in an oven. Whether wet or dry, I still hate the slime or grit left in the primer pockets and so I decap them before I tumble and they get cleaned out well.

When you wet tumble, decapped or not, you must dry the brass. Water will ruin primers and powder and you can get misfires, squibs and bore obstructions. Have a good procedure and don't be in a rush to go from wet brass to loaded rounds. Make sure you have enough brass that you can load stuff that's been dry for a long time. Guys will go on long threads about how they dry their brass. However you do it, just be sure to do it.

If you wet tumble cases for a long time, the case mouths can be peened out of good condition. Get a timer that shuts off the tumbler to avoid this. I tumble for 15 minutes, rinse and dry the cases (quickly), then lube and resize. After that, I tumble another 15 minutes at most. Then the cases are dried thoroughly. I see no point to tumbling more than 20 or 30 minutes. It just peens the case mouths. I tumble for 30 minutes or less and I've never seen used brass that was cleaner, nor have I ever gotten it cleaner by tumbling for hours. I'm going to start tumbling for 10 minutes and I bet I still get clean brass. I think a lot of people don't even try that because they were accustomed to tumbling for hours in dry media.
 
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Stainless media can be had from online retailers that sell reloading gear, from eBay, Amazon, and the online storefronts of the tumbler makers like STM.

I do not have a problem with pins sticking in the flash holes, but they can stick in the necks. The most common size of pins that most tumbling media vendors sell tend to stick in 6.5mm necks.

Pins will stick in primers. Jerry Miculek doesn't deprime before he wet tumbles so he says he disfavors the pins because they break decapping pins, and he uses stainless steel chips instead from "Southern Shine Media." I bought some of those but found they etch the cases (they're very sharp) and they're hard to clean up -- some of the chips are very tiny and light almost like grit or dust and in the slurry they stick to stuff. The pins, on the other hand, are individually heavy enough they stay neat. I bought the chips just for my 6.5mm cases so I don't have to pick pins out of the necks, but I think I hate cleaning up the grit just as much. It does clean up with a neodymium magnet.

With the pins, I find I don't even need the magnet. I just use a Frnk. Arsn. sieve type separator over a 5 gallon bucket and hot water. Hot water seems to make the pins come away from the brass whereas cold water makes them stick to the brass. I believe temperature affects the surface tension and film strength of the water.

I decap before I tumble because water sticks in the primers and leaves the primer pockets wet which causes misfires and squib loads. You can avoid this by baking the brass in an oven. Whether wet or dry, I still hate the slime or grit left in the primer pockets and so I decap them before I tumble and they get cleaned out well.

When you wet tumble, decapped or not, you must dry the brass. Water will ruin primers and powder and you can get misfires, squibs and bore obstructions. Have a good procedure and don't be in a rush to go from wet brass to loaded rounds. Make sure you have enough brass that you can load stuff that's been dry for a long time. Guys will go on long threads about how they dry their brass. However you do it, just be sure to do it.

If you wet tumble cases for a long time, the case mouths can be peened out of good condition. Get a timer that shuts off the tumbler to avoid this. I tumble for 15 minutes, rinse and dry the cases (quickly), then lube and resize. After that, I tumble another 15 minutes at most. Then the cases are dried thoroughly. I see no point to tumbling more than 20 or 30 minutes. It just peens the case mouths. I tumble for 30 minutes or less and I've never seen used brass that was cleaner, nor have I ever gotten it cleaner by tumbling for hours. I'm going to start tumbling for 10 minutes and I bet I still get clean brass. I think a lot of people don't even try that because they were accustomed to tumbling for hours in dry media.

this is some solid advice!! I just learned a couple of things myself, thank you!
 
MacGuire's car wash soap with polymer wax is excellent in wet tumblers with some lemishine.
 
I use a 9MM case full of Lemi-shine and have substituted Armor-all wash and wax in place of the Dawn. Any liquid wash and wax should work. I only get a stuck pin in a primer pocket or case neck about every 2000 cases when tumbling 223. Larger calibers are not a problem but 17 and 20 caliber are much worse. I deprime my brass before tumbling. I don't have a separator, I just dump the drum in a tub, drain off the dirty water and rinse with clear water and shake the media out by hand. It takes maybe 5 minutes. I bought an RCBS separator and didn't like it. It had a groove in each end that was just the right size to catch the pins. I use the hot Summer Sun to dry with during hot weather and the oven, set at a very low temp in the winter. I tumble for 2 hours. A dehydrator is on my want list.
 
Check out the Rebel 17 from Extreme Tumblers. Its very similar to the Thumbler with some improvements for about the same price. I have one on my xmas list but will likely just buy one if santa fails to come through. A couple dudes I know speak very well of it.
 
The rebel is actually what I run and I’ve been really happy with it
 
I've used the Rebel 17 for a few years now. Works fine. The main improvement compared to the Thumlers B is it uses pillow blocks with roller bearings instead of nylon bushings but plenty of people have run the nylon for years without trouble and I imagine they're inexpensive to replace. The downside of the Rebel 17 is it's made in China vs Thumlers USA. The powdercoating on my Rebel drum flaked off, but it's stainless steel underneath so I don't care. The motor is wimpy, but I think it's equivalent to Thumlers. A good motor would probably cost as much as the whole tumbler, so I'm content with mine, but if I was shooting more, I would want a bigger drum. A small cement mixer can be had for about the same money -- but they take up more shop/storage space.
 
For the most part, I have eliminated the use of SS media and in doing so do not need the separator. The brass with an 1/8 tsp of Lemishine, and a 'shot' of both Dawn and Armor-all Carwash with wax using hot water will make the cases look like media tumbled yet the primer pockets will still be be a bit dirty. A pass in prep over a brush on the prep center fixes this. I setup my Thumler's and drying dehydrator to cycle for 2 hours, the lowest time setting u have in a outdoor lighter timer used for this purpose.