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Use this instead, then use an inside action wrench for installing the next barrel. You might need to get some longer bolts because you'll need to turn the head of the wrench the opposite way. Amazon product ASIN B0047WMXVQ
From what I’ve read, you are not supposed to use a rear-insert action wrench to remove the factory barrel, use a barrel vise, external action wrench, and a big pipe extension. Give it a whack with a BFH.
I was able to get both of mine off with a SAC barrel vice clamped TIGHT and some drywall tape underneath the bushings like mark recommends. It grips and protects the barrel at the same time. Two were removed with the above external action wrench. One with a 5 pound BFH and the other one with a dead blow hammer, both were with little difficulty in a couple of minutes. They both worked equally well. I wrapped my actions in a piece of printer paper 2-3 times and that protected the finish on the action from the jaws of the external wrench. Chewed up the paper but the action looked flawles afterwards. Clamp the action wrench tightly just in front of the ejection port on the flats of the action so you have solid metal on metal with all the surface area of the flats, but its far enough back so your not clamping over the threads of the barrel and causing compressing/bbindingif the action on the threads of the barrel. I didnt need a cheater bar, or fancy lubricant or penetrating oil. And as the handle on the wheeler wrench is pretty long already I figured that made the cheater bar irrelevant. 3-4 healthy whacks and your there spinning off the rest by hand.
Be glad the wrench broke (as designed) instead of damaging the action. Stock barrels are on tight. Use an external wrench or send it to LRI to do for you