I don't know anything about CDI.
As far as mags you might have to tweek the feed lips a little so the fatter saum round sits higher in the mag and lets the bolt pick up the round instead of riding over the top of it.
As far as mags you might have to tweek the feed lips a little so the fatter saum round sits higher in the mag and lets the bolt pick up the round instead of riding over the top of it.
I wanted to pile on the info here. I’ve had my Tikka CTR .308 for about a month, most of it in a KRG Bravo chassis (the same as my semi-custom 700 because I like the chassis and so my comparison would be as close to apples to apples as I could afford). The more I shoot this Tikka, the less I like my trusty Remington. I run a range. A large federal agency in our state does their tac team sniper training at it each month because it goes out to 500 yards - most departments don’t go out that far. I just sit in and do their drills, and steal ideas for our tac team sniper training if it looks good. None of their guns shot with this box-stock Tikka during groups or quals (they shoot HS precision actions in a chassis).
Our PD rifles are Rem 700P’s that have been dropped into a chassis (Mcrees) many years ago. Some of the rifles are over 20 years old, but on their second barrel and trigger. I’m seriously considering trading them in for the Tac A1. We like to try to keep stuff pretty close to factory just for liability. I wonder how support (warranty, parts, etc) for the Tikka would be. And will it be the same in 10 years. 20 years. How will they work in that time? Any thoughts.
Our PD rifles are Rem 700P’s that have been dropped into a chassis (Mcrees) many years ago. Some of the rifles are over 20 years old, but on their second barrel and trigger. I’m seriously considering trading them in for the Tac A1. We like to try to keep stuff pretty close to factory just for liability. I wonder how support (warranty, parts, etc) for the Tikka would be. And will it be the same in 10 years. 20 years. How will they work in that time? Any thoughts.
SAKO's been in business for almost a hundred years. They've been making civilian rifles for 75 years and the Tikka T3 and T3x for 15.
Now they're owned by Beretta Holding Group, and with arrangements like that there's always the danger that some corporate beancounter might decide to shut down the subsidiary business if it has a bad quarter or two, or if corporate priorities change... But Beretta Holding Group also owns Beretta, which has been making firearms since the 16th century, so maybe they see value in continuity.
I cannot find part number for that. Weird! You should ask this from your Tikka dealer.
So... if a person was looking to do a Tikka T3 'build' i.e. add a pre-threaded and chambered barrel from PVA, a good chassis, etc. what kind of base action would be preferable? Any T3 hunting rifle, or would there be 'gotchas'? What specifically does the 'CTR' model everybody talks about bring to the table? A good factory barrel? Integral scope rail? The bolt handles can be changed out at will, correct?
I bought a used t3 lite in 22-250 for $275.
Wow... that's a heckuva deal 
I was eyeballing one recently (online) for $465 NIB thinking that wasn't bad...
Another question to add to the list... extended scope rails? Some of us are a bit taller, and need to move the scope forward. So far I've only found a couple extended mounts... anyone here have experience with them? I know they can be a PITA with some types of barrel nuts; I was hoping that with the PVA style nut it might not be necessary to remove the scope base to change the barrel?
I was eyeballing one recently (online) for $465 NIB thinking that wasn't bad...
Another question to add to the list... extended scope rails? Some of us are a bit taller, and need to move the scope forward. So far I've only found a couple extended mounts... anyone here have experience with them? I know they can be a PITA with some types of barrel nuts; I was hoping that with the PVA style nut it might not be necessary to remove the scope base to change the barrel?
If you’re just now starting to look at a build with a nut, I might hold out until next year. WTO is working on a switch lug that should be out Q1 next year for Tikka.
Josh at PVA also informed me there will be a Barloc coming soon for the Tikka.
Josh at PVA also informed me there will be a Barloc coming soon for the Tikka.
Good to know... I'm kind of at the point of starting looking for an action now... then a stock... then a new barrel. Still kind of up in the air between a Howa 1500 build and a Tikka T3 build, TBH. Or both By the time I get around to the barrel, we'll see what's available. I'm pretty comfortable with barrel nuts, for sure.
By the time I get around to the barrel, we'll see what's available. I'm pretty comfortable with barrel nuts, for sure. Another question, guys. How does the Tikka do with feeding/extracting the short/fat rounds like 6 BR / BRA / Dasher?
Sorry for all the newbie questions but I'm very new to the platform
Sorry for all the newbie questions but I'm very new to the platform
They are more prone to ejection issues than anything. Feeding is not really the problem. When they are extracted from the chamber and into the receiver, the short cases have a tendency to flip out of the extractor and stay in the action instead of kicking out like they should. Light modifications to the spring/plunger take care of that issues pretty easily.
Anyone had their bolts fluted by LRI and have you noticed any difference in feel once you did? I’ve heard that the fluting can make them ‘less smooth’ but I’ve never felt one myself. Figured I would ask before having Chad & Co. go to town on mine.
Also, anyone had their actions DLC coated?
Also, anyone had their actions DLC coated?
Speaking from somewhat limited experience with Tikkas (I own 2 T3 Hunters), the bolt handles i believe are replaceable across all Tikka models. As for reasons behind CTR fandom, i would venture to guess that the majors ones are a slightly heavier barrel profile, 20” availability, threaded, more vertical grip angle, raised/molded cheek piece, included pic rail (although it is 0 MOA) , and maybe the steel mags (although they ain’t cheap!). Tikka’s are known tac drivers, and the CTR is no exception. It basically just takes the T3x platform to the next level, shy of a full chassis. So my humble advice would be that if you intend to swap the stock and/or barrel any time soon, then a standard T3(x) would suite you just fine, as you’re basically just buying the action at that point. Hope this helped!
I’d be very interested in this feedback as well! Love the ‘buttery ness’ of Tikka actions, and have long wondered if spiral fluting hinders that.
Absolutely not !
I've had LRI flute two tikka bolts and they both run just as smooth if not smoother than they did before.
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Here is a tikka buying guide 101 condensed from my own research and reading this whole giant thread and other tikka threads. The 2 most important criteria is action options and bolt face (changing that is $400).
T3x action you have 4 options. (note all are same length)
Blued righty
Blued lefty
Stainless righty
Stainless lefty
Bolt face you have 3 options. Some bolts are factory fluted.
223
308ish
Magnum
Bolt stop length is a part that can be changed.
Barrel options are generally 4 as well
Blued thin (2.5-3ish contour) non thread (9/16 at most possible) possible factory fluted
Stainless thin (same) non thread (same) possible factory fluted
Blued heavier (light Palma per @bohem ) threaded
Stainless heavier (same) threaded
Ed: there is also varmint which is slightly heavier than the ctr but isn't threaded. There is a super varmint that is threaded. Not sure on contour vs varmint.
Trigger you generally have 2 options
Two stage trigger (Tac A1 and Super varmint) 3p on A1 and 2p on sv.
Excellent single stage (all others. Some change out with a $10 trigger spring. Fewer change out to a different trigger. This ain't like Remingtons)
Note from all that I have seen here in this thread the factory barrels all shoot great. Barrels are chf and pretty much same as Sako. Some may be a little slow (per @Lowlight and a few others). Also they may be throated a little long from what I have heard.
Magazines you have 2 options.
CTR pattern 5 or 10 (Tac A1 and CTR only. 10's come with. Extra 10's cost on par with steel aics)
Basic tikka flush fit sized
Note most chassis only fit short action aics only. Somebody somewhere on the hide went through and created the spreadsheet attached. If I remembered who I'd credit.
Magpul aics Do Not work with any tikka without Extensive filing of feed lips which makes them prone to troubles.
Tikkas generally do not need blueprinting to work. The general consensus is you could but why waste the money? Aftermarket shouldered pre-fit barrels are made by a few different companies.
Pic rail.
CTR and tac a1 come with 0 moa rail. Rail pretty much has to be removed with heat of some sort (clothes iron or blow torch and then scraping off residue.)
Actions come with a dovetail that spuhr (and maybe a few others) makes stuff that fits. 20, 30, and I think 40's are available. (Currently no tac a1 specific slanted rails exist that match fore end.)
Bolt handles are dovetailed in. Swept are available from some. Metal shrouds are available as well. Reviews and pictures are in this thread. Aftermarket are available from
Sterk (@cannoncrossfire )
Glades armory
Anarchy outdoors
Mountain tactical (tikkaperformance.com)
When you are looking at tikka and you are in the USA, make sure you are looking at the en-US site. http://www.tikka.fi/en-us/rifles
It is tempting to look at the other international site http://www.tikka.fi/rifles but they don't import alot of those options.
Aug 2019 edit
Aftermarket trigger options
Yodave spring or similar $10
Krg midas 2 stage trigger top safety $289
Timney 430 2 stage trigger. $248
March 2020 edit. Krg Bravo is now available with ctr mag fit.
Oct 2020 update.
If you want to have an aftermarket 2 stage trigger on a left handed tikka you will need to get a slot milled in the right side for the safety. Or move the safety (carefully) from the left handed trigger (works on midas). @K2e2vin has done it.
March 2021 update.
Www.Choose.tikka.fi/usa shows lots of great options but per a conversation with the Beretta Dallas flagship store they won't order anything in that ends in MTB. Stupid teasing. The ones that they import start with JRT
August 2022 update: added bolt fluting and barrel fluting notes since they weren't in there.
Hope this helps. If anybody knows more about other options chime in.
July 2023 update
Super varmint update. Sv has single stack mag. Sv has 2 stage trigger. Cheek piece is adjustable. Bolt is fluted. Barrel is threaded. Epoxied 0moa rail. Stock has some texture. Not sure if stock is stiffer. No left handed options.
March 2024
Havent seen @cannoncrossfire / Sterk in a while. Unsure if he is still making his parts.
Also updates to triggers.
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LRI fluted my Tac A1 bolt and it runs just as smooth. I mailed my bolt to LRI on a Friday, and it was done and in my mailbox the following Friday, wow!
What caliber is that?
Do you notice any issue with accuracy?
Did you change out the recoil lug or use the original from KRG?
RedSnake tactical. Can’t remember his handle on here.
Check out the attachment from miy post 3273. Cadex does but only with the factory mag. Manners. I think Mcmillan can inlet for whatever dbm.
Cdi, atlasworx, tikka performance (mountain tactical), and red snake all show that they do. Might be a good idea to check out tikka performances video of what changes need to be made for theirs.
I was considering doing a 300winmag build for awhile. Frank sorta changed my mind on the podcast. That and the krg whiskey 3 is the only chassis that looks really good to me.
Thats why I went with MDT LSS-XL Gen 2 for my 7 WSM. I load nearly to 3.2" COAL with long action MDT magazines for the Tikka with plenty of mag space. Still feeds like butter even with factory 7 WSM loads as well a 2.860" SAMMI stuff.
Disregard the sling. It’s a long story
Tikka CTR 6.5CM 24" Factory Barrel
TIkka Performace Elite scope rail
TImeny 2 stage trigger
Hoptic 2 round quiver and cheek pad
Sterk Handle/shroud @cannoncrossfire
Little Bastard Brake
ARC10 Rings
Vortex Razor Gen2
Evo Bipod
J Allen Tikka Chassis
The thing is almost perfect, once the Arca rail gets in it will complete the package. The wait was well worth it. J Allen is making their own bolt stops to replace the factory when you drop it into the chassis, they also have a set screw below the pin the keep it from backing out. It is user adjustable SA to LA with the change of a collet that you buy separately. I will get more pictures once the Arca rail and new bolt stop show up.
TIkka Performace Elite scope rail
TImeny 2 stage trigger
Hoptic 2 round quiver and cheek pad
Sterk Handle/shroud @cannoncrossfire
Little Bastard Brake
ARC10 Rings
Vortex Razor Gen2
Evo Bipod
J Allen Tikka Chassis
The thing is almost perfect, once the Arca rail gets in it will complete the package. The wait was well worth it. J Allen is making their own bolt stops to replace the factory when you drop it into the chassis, they also have a set screw below the pin the keep it from backing out. It is user adjustable SA to LA with the change of a collet that you buy separately. I will get more pictures once the Arca rail and new bolt stop show up.
Post some info on your barrel, PleaseThats why I went with MDT LSS-XL Gen 2 for my 7 WSM. I load nearly to 3.2" COAL with long action MDT magazines for the Tikka with plenty of mag space. Still feeds like butter even with factory 7 WSM loads as well a 2.860" SAMMI stuff.
Disregard the sling. It’s a long story
Look at German Gun Stock. They make 3 different Tikka stocks that factory and CTR bottom metal fit into.
Thats why I went with MDT LSS-XL Gen 2 for my 7 WSM. I load nearly to 3.2" COAL with long action MDT magazines for the Tikka with plenty of mag space. Still feeds like butter even with factory 7 WSM loads as well a 2.860" SAMMI stuff.View attachment 6961296View attachment 6961297
Disregard the sling. It’s a long story
What barrel are you running on that?
Test test test.
KRG TRG rear stock in KRG Bravo.
KRG TRG rear stock in KRG Bravo.
So I saw some discussion about that stock combo in the KRG thread.
Those TRG rear stocks seem pretty spendy.... Why go with the bravo/TRG rear over a straight up W3?
Those TRG rear stocks seem pretty spendy.... Why go with the bravo/TRG rear over a straight up W3?
Well i have a change to do this, and go straight to W3, i would need quite much more doe to add in the pot.
Its a carbon barrel that Hells Canyon armory does. 27" barrel.
Not super light but not overly heavy at 11.75 pounds with the NF 7-35 on there.
Who did the threading? Did you have to cut down the barrel at all or is there a decent shoulder behind the threads with a 9/16-24 rate?
I have a T3 lite in .30-06 that I'm considering having threaded. Suppressed hunting seems so much more pleasant.
One factor that may be contributing to the difference in opinion: It's guaranteed that anyone who recommends Tikka is aware that Ruger exists, but it's not nearly so certain that a Ruger fan -- especially in the USA -- has even heard of SAKO or Tikka.
So your request for opinions from people who own both may seem like a good way to get an unbiased answer. But there's a problem with that:
Whenever the RPR vs CTR-in-a-chassis or RPR vs Tac A1 question comes up, everyone generally agrees that both rifles are very good, with the Tikka having the edge in fit and finish while the Ruger has a definite cost advantage; the comparison is usually phrased as "The Tikka feels nicer, but is it $xxx nicer?" And so you might get a biased answer from people who can afford to own both, because they're probably not influenced as much by the cost difference and they may therefore be more likely to come down on the side of the Tikka.
If the cost difference doesn't matter to you, either, I say get the Tikka. It certainly won't shoot any worse than the RPR, and it really does feel nicer (in my opinion). Plus it's slightly exotic, which I personally find appealing.
But if the cost is important, then I think you'll have to actually see and hold (or shoot, if you can) both rifles to decide whether the Tikka is worth the money TO YOU. They're too close for anyone else to make the decision for you.
Best of luck.
Tikka every day of the week.
While I don't own any, I've handled both and much prefer the Tikka. The action or bolt on the RPR is not smooth at all. It makes a leather sound and almost always, the bolt catches on the mag and stays stuck there. The tikka, has a really smooth action and the bolt runs freely and smoothly all the way. Again, I don't own any but I've handled them so hopefully someone who does own both can chime in so you take their word and not mine!
Tornado Technologies did the threading. There is just enough to place a washer and time my thunder beast brake onto it.
This is what it will go forward now, i really liked that rear stock
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I've searched around a bit and I haven't found a fix for the magazine issue that I have.
The front of the magazine dips down, and sometimes this causes the tip of the bullet to get stuck on its way to the chamber. The short term fix is to rest the rifle on the front of the magazine. I tried the screwdriver mod to the hole where the magazine is retained at the rear, but that didn't help with the front dipping... The magazine is also loose and rattling in the mag well.
Is this a common issue?
The front of the magazine dips down, and sometimes this causes the tip of the bullet to get stuck on its way to the chamber. The short term fix is to rest the rifle on the front of the magazine. I tried the screwdriver mod to the hole where the magazine is retained at the rear, but that didn't help with the front dipping... The magazine is also loose and rattling in the mag well.
Is this a common issue?
Have you slid the fore end all the way to the rear to take up the slack in the Mag well?
Honestly, get whichever you feel will fit your needs better. I had a Gen2 RPR, I bought it back before I knew much about Tikka and thought it would suite what I needed. The more I shot the Ruger the less I liked it. It shot amazing groups, on par with my Tikka's, but I didn't like how I was married to using just that chassis, and the bolt felt horrible like doing up a zipper. I eventually sold the RPR because it was just taking up space in the safe. The aftermarket is there for both platforms, so thats not an issue. Again, whichever would suite your needs is the one you should go with.
Sent PM
I realize I forgot to put that in my post, but I have an original out of the box Tikka T3x CTR. The forend is integral with the rest of the stock and can't be moved back and forth.
I haven't heard of the mags being that loose that they tilt down in the front. I did the screwdriver mod to all 3 of my CTR mags as they were dropping sometimes when I fired the rifle. No problems since then.
Here's a video that describes the fix for a CTR failure-to-feed issue that persisted even after the magazine retaining-hole mod was performed. The video's narrator doesn't say exactly what his issue was, so I'm not sure whether it's the same as yours, but take a look:
I believe bending the spring was because the follower was trying to come out of the magazine and the rounds were tipping up too much.
