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Tikka T3x UPR vs CTR vs VARMIT

Mc Max

Private
Minuteman
Feb 8, 2023
11
5
Germany
Hey, I like to buy a Tikka T3x and not sure which one it should be. I like to decide between the UPR vs CTR vs Varmit.

- Is one stock more stiff than the other?

- Are the 22mm varmit barells much more accurate than the 20mm? Whats the weight difference between the two barrels (to carry)?

These two points would help me to decide.

Thanks in advance!
 
No difference in accuracy and I don’t think you’d ever tell a difference in carrying weight (unless you were talking like 24” Varmint vs 20” CTR). CTR is probably the lightest of the 3.

CTR/UPR are sort of akin to a light Palma profile whereas the Varmint maybe starts to get more towards a medium Palma or standard Rem Varmint (though I still think it’s still lighter than either of those).

Feature-wise it’s just going to depend what’s more important to you, heavy contour or adjustable stock, muzzle threads, nicer mags, and so on.

Ultimately if you have plans to buy it and leave it as-is then get the UPR. If you have plans to change stock, barrel, etc. down the road then buy whatever you can find cheapest.
 
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none of what I'm sharing is verified, just thoughts:

Varmint might be a heavier barrel, but will require threading unless you want to bare muzzle it. Not sure if they come with a scope rail.

CTR is the easy button as you can just drop them into stock or chassis of choice, muzzle threaded, the non SS does rust fairly easily unless you keep it oiled, but not nearly as easily as a R700; I'd save the $ and go with the non SS personally and put that toward stock, ammo or the next barrel

I've never used the UPR stock, but I'd guess you're basically getting an adjustable cheekrest with a slightly stiffer stock. I'd skip the UPR and get the CTR and drop it into a stock or chassis of YOUR choosing or just run with the factory stock if you're hunting/carrying it a lot; PM me if you want cheekrest ideas for that stock

the factory Tikka stock (non UPR) are simply flimsy plastic, that said if you make sure it's not touching your barrel when bolted in, there should be NO difference in accuracy other than what ergonomics and weight change for you as a shooter

doubt you'll notice the difference in barrel weight much shooting or carrying
 
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If you didn't plan on future stock upgrades, go UPR. To start with one and mod, CTR. Either one comes threaded and with a much nicer 10rd mag system than the varmint.
 
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I went CTR in KRG bravo. The bravo allows you to add rail/spigots/LOP etc.
E5C5F308-CF33-45C9-BF39-FF8C23C44A5D.jpeg
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Thanks for all these informations! Talked to a real army sniper and Tikka fan and he advised me also the CTR with a 6.5 cm system. Probably I will also take as a next step a KRG Bravo. But at first the CTR.

Many thanks!
 
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If you are in Europe, what is the cost difference between the Tikka CTR vs

-Accuracy International AT?
-US made custom action like Impact or Zermatt TL3?

Bravo is an excellent choice, but know it's a bit light in the rear end.
 
If you are in Europe, what is the cost difference between the Tikka CTR vs

-Accuracy International AT?
-US made custom action like Impact or Zermatt TL3?

Bravo is an excellent choice, but know it's a bit light in the rear end.
CTR is around 1700€/$
AI AT is around 4.900€/$

thats why Tikka T3x is my go to. Price compared to performance is very attractive!
 
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CTR is around 1700€/$
AI AT is around 4.900€/$

thats why Tikka T3x is my go to. Price compared to performance is very attractive!
$1800 / $5182

in the US,
Tikka around $1200
AI AT around $5300

AI is a bit of a better deal for you guys
Tikka is a better deal for US

Not saying you should buy AI, just factor in that the Tikka factory stock isn't comparable to a standard AI chassis. Something to factor in as far as price/value.

FYI, I am a Tikka fan.

Don't know how the warranties would work on Tikka, AI, US made custom actions should you need or decide to go that route. Most likely gunsmith over sending overseas.
 
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The UPR stock is nice. It’s stiff, light, plenty of free float and has a nice grip texture.

I have a CTR in a Bravo chassis which is a really good platform, but the UPR is lighter and IMO more of a hunting stock.
 
The Super Varmint is Cerakoted SS, includes pic rail, has a two stage trigger found in the Tac A1, threaded, and has an actually quite nice stock with an adjustable cheek piece. Not floppy! I own one.

Only downside is it doesn’t take their CTR mags. But I’m sure a smith could mill it out some and you buy a CTR bottom metal and done. I bought a take-off bottom metal for $65. Haven’t gotten the stock milled yet.

I actually really like the stock. Better than my Grayboe Terrains, IMHO. Took off the front wide bit as I like slim forends.
 
The Super Varmint is Cerakoted SS, includes pic rail, has a two stage trigger found in the Tac A1, threaded, and has an actually quite nice stock with an adjustable cheek piece. Not floppy! I own one.

Only downside is it doesn’t take their CTR mags. But I’m sure a smith could mill it out some and you buy a CTR bottom metal and done. I bought a take-off bottom metal for $65. Haven’t gotten the stock milled yet.

I actually really like the stock. Better than my Grayboe Terrains, IMHO. Took off the front wide bit as I like slim forends.
The army sniper I talked to at the range had one CTR with him and two Super Varmits. Its very nice but costs 1000€/$ more than the CTR or Varmit. This money I wanted to use for the KRG BRAVO and spend it more in a nice optic. But I know what you mean ;)
 
Any chance you can get a UPR in your hands to try (or feel, at least)?
When I handled a CTR and a UPR, I much preferred the UPR stock ergonomics.

As mentioned, a UPR will be lighter than a CTR in a Bravo. Does that matter? Which is preferable?
 
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Any chance you can get a UPR in your hands to try (or feel, at least)?
When I handled a CTR and a UPR, I much preferred the UPR stock ergonomics.

As mentioned, a UPR will be lighter than a CTR in a Bravo. Does that matter? Which is preferable?
Probably I should look for an UPR. Thats a good thought! Thanks!
 
The army sniper I talked to at the range had one CTR with him and two Super Varmits. Its very nice but costs 1000€/$ more than the CTR or Varmit.
Huh, wow. In the US a stainless .223 CTR costs about $1100 and a Super Varmint is $1649, so $550 difference.

€1000 difference is crazy!
 
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I took my UPR out of the Bravo stock and put it back in the UPR stock. I already have my CTR 6.5 CM in a Bravo, but the UPR stock in some ways is better than the Bravo IMO.

The UPR is at least a pound lighter and has a better feel for a hunting stock. It’s also very solid off the bench.

There isn’t really any comparison in the UPR vs CTR stock. The UPR has better barrel float, is stiffer, has an adjustable cheek riser and a better grip.

I took these pics this evening of my UPR 308.

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109EF083-0F30-4942-A6E0-888AD94A5CDC.jpeg
We
 
I have a UPR and a CTR and the UPR stock is a definite upgrade to the CTR. The UPR is just a CTR barreled action in a different stock.

I also have a CTR in a KRG Bravo chassis and there are things I like more in both the Bravo chassis and the UPR stock. The UPR stock is much lighter and more ergonomic for carrying in the field IMO. I had my UPR in a Bravo chassis as well and sold that Bravo and put it back in the UPR stock.
 
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No difference in accuracy and I don’t think you’d ever tell a difference in carrying weight (unless you were talking like 24” Varmint vs 20” CTR). CTR is probably the lightest of the 3.

CTR/UPR are sort of akin to a light Palma profile whereas the Varmint maybe starts to get more towards a medium Palma or standard Rem Varmint (though I still think it’s still lighter than either of those).

Feature-wise it’s just going to depend what’s more important to you, heavy contour or adjustable stock, muzzle threads, nicer mags, and so on.

Ultimately if you have plans to buy it and leave it as-is then get the UPR. If you have plans to change stock, barrel, etc. down the road then buy whatever you can find cheapest.
I bought the Varmint because I knew I wanted the heavy barrel and knew I was going to stick it in a chassis. Bought the chassis here, used. Have about $1k in the rifle before optics

Downside? No threaded barrel so no muzzle devices

M
 
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