Am looking in to a Tikka Tac A1. Rifle has no cant in the rail. Wondering what guys are doing to get additional MOA. Know Burris makes a set of canted rings but only find 1" height in 34mm. Not enough clearance for 56mm scope. Any advice?
Tikka Tac A1 needing MOA
- Thread starter Ks new guy
- Start date
Here's what I use on my Tikka T3x TAC A1 ... it is AWESOME ... super accurate and little or no return-to-zero issues when I take it off and put it back on. I use QD mounts for storage and cleaning.
www.americandefensemanufacturing.com
BTW (edit) ... this standard height solution works fine and has perfect clearance with my Leupold Mark 5 5-25x56 scope.
American Defense MFG, LLC | AD RECON S 20MOA Scope Mount
Similar to the ADRECON the ADRECONS 20MOA mount is made for putting high power glass onto a flattop style AR15 or bolt action rifle with 20 MOA built in to the base. It is precision machined from 6061 T6 aluminum and finished in hard coat T3 MilSpec anodize. It features the Patented QD Auto...
BTW (edit) ... this standard height solution works fine and has perfect clearance with my Leupold Mark 5 5-25x56 scope.
I have no less than eight (8) ADM QD mounts on glass assigned to a variety of rifles. They are solidly built, extremely accurate, consistently return to within 1/2 MOA when removed/remounted ... and they allow me the room in my safe to store more rifles, instead of more scopes. I'm not a company spokesman ... but I am a fan based on years of use with "zero" issues.
Any quality scope mount will have that return and will be properly torqued. The days of QD are gone with the mounts we have now and easy access to proper torque devices
Let me understand what you're saying. You think that fixed mounts unscrewed each time, removed, mounted, and re-torqued ... is better, easier, more accurate ... than a quality QD mount that spans the whole used rail length, and tightens solidly? Do I have that right?
If so, I don't agree ... but the glory of democracy is when men of good conscience and righteous intent, can disagree and remain friends.
No shortage of good advice on this one. Only caveat to all is ... beware of height. My recommendation above is confirmed with exactly that rifle (flat full-length rail) ... and a 56mm objective lens. I've gotten the height wrong before ... nothing more annoying that buying a new mount only to learn your scope doesn't clear the rail.
I'll take a SPUHR MPA or MDT over a QD system with stupid levers every day of the week. Because they are better. Every time. (Unless you need the ability to remove the scope with just your hand because it took a bullet or otherwise broke and need to use the BUIS or even no sights. But I dont play on life or death 2 way ranges)Let me understand what you're saying. You think that fixed mounts unscrewed each time, removed, mounted, and re-torqued ... is better, easier, more accurate ... than a quality QD mount that spans the whole used rail length, and tightens solidly? Do I have that right?
If so, I don't agree ... but the glory of democracy is when men of good conscience and righteous intent, can disagree and remain friends.
And that doesnt even go into vertically split rings if that's your style too
SPHUR 20 MOA. It costs, but my suggestion is to save up for it. I put it on TAC A1, absolutely no regrets, Rock solid. Edit, I used the highest ring on my RAZOR and I have room for lens caps.
Fair enough. I still like the ADM QD mounts ... probably because (a) I'm lazy so 5-second remove/install seems way easier, and (b) they've worked flawlessly for me for years and on multiple different rifles ranging from 223's to 338 Lapua's. To each his own ...
I’ve had issues in the past with an ADM and a buddy learned a valuable lesson about his Larue QR on his 338.
Curious if you could have gone with a 30 MOA. Still have enough left below your zero position?
I have zero experience with "elevated" mounts/rings so can't offer feedback. With that said -
My first "serious" rifle was a TAC A1 in 6.5CM topped with a first-gen Vortex Razor 5-25x50. It got me to 1000 yards with no problem. That was all I needed. Clearly, though, if you're setting up a new optic and need to get rings or a mount anyway, no reason not to get a setup with elevation added.
My first "serious" rifle was a TAC A1 in 6.5CM topped with a first-gen Vortex Razor 5-25x50. It got me to 1000 yards with no problem. That was all I needed. Clearly, though, if you're setting up a new optic and need to get rings or a mount anyway, no reason not to get a setup with elevation added.
Apologies for the slight threadromancy, but wanting to keep this all on one place ... @Steel head, any reflections on QD mounts a couple of years on?
(Context: I also need a mount with MOA built in to go on a Tac A1, but want QD, as I'm going with a clip-on NV unit that goes on the occular lens, not the objective, so I'll need to move the scope relatively frequently, for correct eye relief with both options. Am looking at the Tier One mount as a reliable option.)
you’ll need a 1 piece mount that has elevation built in. Something like the Seekins, Vortex, ADM Recon, or Spuhr.
I had a Tac A1 and took the action out and dropped it in ACC chassis after a few years. The top rail is part of the chassis system so you can’t replace it without ditching the Tac A1 chassis. I replaced my rail with an Area 419 20 MOA rail and used ARC M10 rings. The factory Tikka rail was an absolute pain in the ass to remove.
I had a Tac A1 and took the action out and dropped it in ACC chassis after a few years. The top rail is part of the chassis system so you can’t replace it without ditching the Tac A1 chassis. I replaced my rail with an Area 419 20 MOA rail and used ARC M10 rings. The factory Tikka rail was an absolute pain in the ass to remove.
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