• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

To build from scratch? Or to buy it complete?

mikeross506

Private
Minuteman
Sep 11, 2010
12
0
39
I am going to be purchasing my first personal M4 in the very near future. I have a lot of combat time behind them so I know exactly what I want.

Question is : "Will it be cheaper to build my own or buy one already assembled? I am on a very strict budget of $1000. My goal is to get a good quality setup up that is ready to rock n roll but still leaves room for upgrades as the extra money becomes available.
 
Re: To build from scratch? Or to buy it complete?

DIY is what I say,basic tools to assemble an AR15 are not too pricey.Do a list of what you want and resource it.For instance,if you are doing an aftermarket trigger,you can get a LPK from WOA w/ no trigger for about $40,saves buying a trigger twice.As far as the M4 profile,I don't have an M203 and would just go with a quality HB IMHO.
 
Re: To build from scratch? Or to buy it complete?

I would bet, depending on the specifics of what you want/need on the rifle, that you can build it cheaper than you can buy it. In 99%+ of the cases, it is tough to beat buying all the parts/accessories and assembling it yourself versus buying and upgrading from a complete rifle when it comes to your basic, mainstream AR-15/M4. Now, once you get into match rifles, DM/SPR type builds, etc., then you have to weigh the results you require against your ability to DIY.

What are the specific components (barrel, furniture, A2/A4 upper, handguard, trigger, etc.) you are looking to use on your build and I can probably get you to a rough cost estimate on building versus buying and upgrading.
 
Re: To build from scratch? Or to buy it complete?

AR-15s are pretty easy to build and then you can pick every component...if that sounds good to you. Plus you can build to your budget and then upgrade later as funds and desires dictate. Just build it.
 
Re: To build from scratch? Or to buy it complete?

Midway and DPMS was having a sale on a complete upper for $399(+$20 for a A3 upper):
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=416788

Here's a Lower on the Sale Forum:
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthre...rue#Post2037403

Here's a stripped lower:
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthre...rue#Post2023053

Here's a BNIB Bushmasters on the Sale forum for a good price, I love Bushmasters:
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2036919#Post2036919

Cabelas has BNIB DPMS Oracle's, sometimes I've seen them go for $699 when they've got sales:
http://cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/...&hasJS=true

Just some options. If you build it yourself, you'll have every component that you want. If you buy a complete one, you might not like a certain component on it. I've seen some tack drivers built from all used parts before too. Good luck with your decision and keep us updated!
 
Re: To build from scratch? Or to buy it complete?

Sort of like buying a new car. If you order with the options you want you get exactly what you want instead of buy what someone wants to sell you.

Unless there is already one built to your spec, put it together yourself. It may cost you a little more than the stripped down model but it will be what you desire.
 
Re: To build from scratch? Or to buy it complete?

Thanks for all the feedback guys. I was really leaning towards building my own and you have cemented it. It was never a question of my ability. When I was on the line with the 506th Infantry I had to go to the Armorer's Assistant Course....

I've been working on my spec list over the past few days and what I m certain of is:
Must have rail system. (leaning towards full length), collapsible stock, flat top, nice flash suppressor...
What I am basically going to due is create a platform that is very capable of performing at CQB distance (out to 150) but that I can also set a scope on and throw a bullet out to 300 0r 400 yards to pop a ground hog...
 
Re: To build from scratch? Or to buy it complete?

Another option is Spikes Tactical they will build it anyway you want it or even partially.They have a list of the parts and the cost. I had them use a Danile Defense barrel and low profile gas block on mine.Everyone else that I have spoken to also has had nothing but wonderfull things to say about Spikes Tactical and the customer service is awesome. I have had around 250 rnds through mine and it shoots very good. No malfunctions at all. My Spikes ran me about $800.00 www.spikestactical.com and yes they give police/millitary discount they did with me. Spikes is good to go.
 
Re: To build from scratch? Or to buy it complete?

I put mine together for $595. Started with a new stripped RRA lower from the KCMO gun show for $120. Bought a new DPMS complete upper from the Tulsa gun show for $375, and for another $100 they threw in the lower parts kit and collapsible stock assembly (Sunday show prices). That did not include sights, but I already had optics picked out anyway.

My upper, lower parts kit, and stock assembly came from the JSE Surplus booth, and they're located in Cape Girardeau, MO. Check them out on the web. They have some pretty good prices and their service is great. I've ordered some tools and other stuff from them, and I've been very pleased.

Eric
 
Re: To build from scratch? Or to buy it complete?

Building from scratch is much cheaper, since you don't have to pay the Federal Excise Tax that you do on completed firearms. It depends on what you mean by "build". Completed upper on a built lower, etc. If you are going to put everything together including separate barrel and the like, please be mindful of the tolerances, proper torque specifications and using the appropriate components. I see lots of mistakes in the ARs I check, to include inadequate barrel nut torque, lack of anti-seize grease on the barrel/receiver connection, improper alignment of the barrel nut resulting in tension on the gas tube, etc.
 
Re: To build from scratch? Or to buy it complete?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USACS</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Building from scratch is much cheaper, since you don't have to pay the Federal Excise Tax that you do on completed firearms. It depends on what you mean by "build". Completed upper on a built lower, etc. If you are going to put everything together including separate barrel and the like, please be mindful of the tolerances, proper torque specifications and using the appropriate components. I see lots of mistakes in the ARs I check, to include inadequate barrel nut torque, lack of anti-seize grease on the barrel/receiver connection, improper alignment of the barrel nut resulting in tension on the gas tube, etc.</div></div>

You mention lack of anti-seize grease on the barrel/receiver connection as a mistake. WOA suggest red loctite on the barrel extension / receiver connection.
 
Re: To build from scratch? Or to buy it complete?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mikeross506</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am going to be purchasing my first personal M4 in the very near future. I have a lot of combat time behind them so I know exactly what I want.

Question is : "Will it be cheaper to build my own or buy one already assembled? I am on a very strict budget of $1000. My goal is to get a good quality setup up that is ready to rock n roll but still leaves room for upgrades as the extra money becomes available. </div></div>

Check out Del-ton. I think I'm about to order one from them. There located in Elizabethtown NC. Their prices are hard to beat. You can get a complete m4 for 700.00 shipped There website says 750, but you can get them cheaper if you look or maybe call them. They have kits to build yourself also. You can call them and tell them exactly what you want. I've only heard good things about this company.
 
Re: To build from scratch? Or to buy it complete?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: son</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USACS</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Building from scratch is much cheaper, since you don't have to pay the Federal Excise Tax that you do on completed firearms. It depends on what you mean by "build". Completed upper on a built lower, etc. If you are going to put everything together including separate barrel and the like, please be mindful of the tolerances, proper torque specifications and using the appropriate components. I see lots of mistakes in the ARs I check, to include inadequate barrel nut torque, lack of anti-seize grease on the barrel/receiver connection, improper alignment of the barrel nut resulting in tension on the gas tube, etc.</div></div>

You mention lack of anti-seize grease on the barrel/receiver connection as a mistake. WOA suggest red loctite on the barrel extension / receiver connection.</div></div>
I'm talking about where the barrel extension slides into the upper receiver, and then on the receiver threads where you will attach the barrel nut. You need to use anti-seize lubricant on to prevent the aluminum receiver from fusing to the steel barrel.

Are you sure you're not talking about the barrel and barrel extension connection? And by WOA, do you mean White Oak Armament? Do they say this on their website? I'm not finding it on the website. I'd be very curious about the logic behind that recommendation if they actually did say to use Loctite on the receiver.
 
Re: To build from scratch? Or to buy it complete?

I would not red locktite my barrel nut on, use a quality moly grease

Definately build it yourself
 
Re: To build from scratch? Or to buy it complete?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USACS</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: son</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USACS</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Building from scratch is much cheaper, since you don't have to pay the Federal Excise Tax that you do on completed firearms. It depends on what you mean by "build". Completed upper on a built lower, etc. If you are going to put everything together including separate barrel and the like, please be mindful of the tolerances, proper torque specifications and using the appropriate components. I see lots of mistakes in the ARs I check, to include inadequate barrel nut torque, lack of anti-seize grease on the barrel/receiver connection, improper alignment of the barrel nut resulting in tension on the gas tube, etc.</div></div>

You mention lack of anti-seize grease on the barrel/receiver connection as a mistake. WOA suggest red loctite on the barrel extension / receiver connection.</div></div>
I'm talking about where the barrel extension slides into the upper receiver, and then on the receiver threads where you will attach the barrel nut. You need to use anti-seize lubricant on to prevent the aluminum receiver from fusing to the steel barrel.

Are you sure you're not talking about the barrel and barrel extension connection? And by WOA, do you mean White Oak Armament? Do they say this on their website? I'm not finding it on the website. I'd be very curious about the logic behind that recommendation if they actually did say to use Loctite on the receiver. </div></div>

I just received a WOA ( white oak armament) 18" spr barrel for my upcoming build. I called them to ask their opinion on squaring the front of the receiver. I asked for John , but he wasn't in. The name of gentleman I talked to has slipped me.

He told me that on mil spec receivers they had seen very few that needed squaring , and didn't recomend it.

As I understood it. He said that applying loctite on the mating surface between the barrel and upper receiver seemed to help with accuracy. I asked if they were using green loctite for this app.. He said red. He said if you wanted to remove the barrel it would have to be pressed out.

He also wanted the barrel torq at 70 ft/lbs. The instructions on my vtac extreme handguard say max torq on the troy barrel nut is 60 ft/lbs.

Yes you do want grease or never seize on the barrel nut threads to prevent galling.
 
Re: To build from scratch? Or to buy it complete?

I think fully assembled upper is the way to go for your 1st. Especially now that BCM has such great deals and selection.
For the lower, of course it's simple to do it yourself, but maybe first check out Grant at G&R, since he does a lot of custom builds and sometimes has some ready to go which other clients bailed out on. You can always swap a grip or stock later if it isn't "just right." Rarely does someone build one which fits them perfectly: only can tell after running it a while.

Before you buy a lower via mail order, tho, be sure to see how much your local FFL will do it for, since I've seen anywhere from $25 to $100. One end would be totally reasonable, considering you pay shipping but no state sales tax, the other is extortionate.

Last, I suggest only dealing with absolutely top notch vendors. You want 100% CS and QC, at least until you have a few under your belt and can bargain shop (if even then...) Best--carb

ETA: since you mentioned rails and optics, may I suggest looking at monolithic uppers so you don't have to cant forward. And for the muzzle end, this looks like the latest best thing going: http://www.battlecomp.com/
 
Re: To build from scratch? Or to buy it complete?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: son</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USACS</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: son</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USACS</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Building from scratch is much cheaper, since you don't have to pay the Federal Excise Tax that you do on completed firearms. It depends on what you mean by "build". Completed upper on a built lower, etc. If you are going to put everything together including separate barrel and the like, please be mindful of the tolerances, proper torque specifications and using the appropriate components. I see lots of mistakes in the ARs I check, to include inadequate barrel nut torque, lack of anti-seize grease on the barrel/receiver connection, improper alignment of the barrel nut resulting in tension on the gas tube, etc.</div></div>

You mention lack of anti-seize grease on the barrel/receiver connection as a mistake. WOA suggest red loctite on the barrel extension / receiver connection.</div></div>
I'm talking about where the barrel extension slides into the upper receiver, and then on the receiver threads where you will attach the barrel nut. You need to use anti-seize lubricant on to prevent the aluminum receiver from fusing to the steel barrel.

Are you sure you're not talking about the barrel and barrel extension connection? And by WOA, do you mean White Oak Armament? Do they say this on their website? I'm not finding it on the website. I'd be very curious about the logic behind that recommendation if they actually did say to use Loctite on the receiver. </div></div>

I just received a WOA ( white oak armament) 18" spr barrel for my upcoming build. I called them to ask their opinion on squaring the front of the receiver. I asked for John , but he wasn't in. The name of gentleman I talked to has slipped me.

He told me that on mil spec receivers they had seen very few that needed squaring , and didn't recomend it.

As I understood it. He said that applying loctite on the mating surface between the barrel and upper receiver seemed to help with accuracy. I asked if they were using green loctite for this app.. He said red. He said if you wanted to remove the barrel it would have to be pressed out.

He also wanted the barrel torq at 70 ft/lbs. The instructions on my vtac extreme handguard say max torq on the troy barrel nut is 60 ft/lbs.

Yes you do want grease or never seize on the barrel nut threads to prevent galling.</div></div>

I've heard of people using red loctite on the barrel extension before, though I've never done it personally. These are the guys who are looking to squeeze every possible bit of accuracy out of their rifles for whatever reason. That said, I've never seen any objective data that shows it actually does anything beneficial.

As to anti-seize on the barrel extension, I've never heard of that before, I've never seen it done, and I've never done it. I have no idea how the barrel extension would ever fuse to the aluminum receiver since it's just a slip fit and there isn't any relative movement between the surfaces once you slide it in by hand.

Obviously you DO want anti-seize on the barrel nut and receiver threads since they do move relative to each other as you torque them.
 
Re: To build from scratch? Or to buy it complete?

I'd say build it yourself.. it will take some shopping around to find the best price, and some time to figure out what exact parts you want.. but this way you have all the parts you want at once.. as in having to take a already built ar apart multiple times as you upgrade parts.. jmho
 
Re: To build from scratch? Or to buy it complete?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: son</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USACS</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Building from scratch is much cheaper, since you don't have to pay the Federal Excise Tax that you do on completed firearms. It depends on what you mean by "build". Completed upper on a built lower, etc. If you are going to put everything together including separate barrel and the like, please be mindful of the tolerances, proper torque specifications and using the appropriate components. I see lots of mistakes in the ARs I check, to include inadequate barrel nut torque, lack of anti-seize grease on the barrel/receiver connection, improper alignment of the barrel nut resulting in tension on the gas tube, etc.</div></div>

You mention lack of anti-seize grease on the barrel/receiver connection as a mistake. WOA suggest red loctite on the barrel extension / receiver connection. </div></div>

WOA also practices what they preach,I actually broke a wrench on a barrel nut from WOA,never thought in a million years someone would do that with a barrel nut,it was glued on with something.This was on a 204 Ruger upper.One thing I can say is it was a Laser Beam as far as accuracy,almost not even sporting for the varmint victims.
 
Re: To build from scratch? Or to buy it complete?

Check out the kits, Shotgun News had a couple good articles a fewe months back on budget builds.