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To crimp or not? --Lee FCD/.308 for Ruger Scout.

mark5pt56

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Nov 20, 2005
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So, I expect to pick up my Ruger Gunsite Scout next week and I have loaded some rounds for testing. I was able to find 900 Hornady #3037(150 FMJBT) Used three powders(Varget/IMR4064/H4895) to test, mainly for two reasons, which one seems the most accurate and to have two other choices if in a bind finding one or the other. I thought I had the RCBS full length, only a standard Lee die, seated using my newly arrived Sinclair Arbor/Wilson seater.(mainly got this for the more accurate rifles and love it!)

Big question, never had an issue with precision rifle w/o crimp, should I use the Lee FCD since this will be a bit more rough handling?

I appreciate the advice on the crimp.

Mark
 
Mark,

No reason to crimp so long as you have adequate neck tension. It adds another variable, generally isn't needed and you're adding another step to the loading process. I will say, the Lee FCD is probably the best crimp set up on the market, and if you've simply got to use one, that's the one to use.

Just curious why you're wanting to go with the FMJs? Not usually the choice for accuracy minded reloaders.
 
Crimping is unnecessary for a bolt gun from the perspective of the bullet getting jammed into the case when feeding the round, but some people report an improvement in accuracy from using the LFCD. Seems to me if you already have the LFCD for that cartridge, you might as well try it once you've eliminated all the other variables.

I really like the LFCD for gas guns; unless all the brass is the same length, it's impossible to get a consistently adequate taper crimp. I just ran off 5k of .223 reloads with MSSS Varmint Nightmare bullets, without cannelures. The LFCD leaves a nice firm crimp regardless of brand or length of the brass.

Joe
 
I have a limited supply of 168/175 SMK's for the precision rifles. Although the GSR is capable of reasonable accuracy, I don't consider it a precision rifle. I got these for this rifle and also for the Garand. What I really want to find is a quantity of the 150 SST's and use them for everything I do with the GSR. Yes, they are a tad more, but hunting and practice with one zero would be ideal.

Since I don't have any other cases prepped, I will try crimped/uncrimped when I see which seems to be the best load out of this first batch. I trimmed all to the same length to insure a proper crimp if doing so.

Sounds good, thanks!
 
I expect to try crimping soon. I have been watching videos from a guy who says without a crimp the bullet gently eases into the rifling very early in the powder ignition phase. With a crimp the powder undergoes slightly more complete combustion before overcoming the crimp. The bullet is launched into the rifling. Thus a better seal is created between the bullet and barrel allowing for better combustion of the powder at that point and keeping the expanding gasses behind the bullet where they belong. Also the bullet engages the barrel truer I believe. Google "tiborasaurus Rex sniper 101" if you would like to see his video series.
 
I expect to try crimping soon. I have been watching videos from a guy who says without a crimp the bullet gently eases into the rifling very early in the powder ignition phase. With a crimp the powder undergoes slightly more complete combustion before overcoming the crimp. The bullet is launched into the rifling. Thus a better seal is created between the bullet and barrel allowing for better combustion of the powder at that point and keeping the expanding gasses behind the bullet where they belong. Also the bullet engages the barrel truer I believe. Google "tiborasaurus Rex sniper 101" if you would like to see his video series.

This is why Richard Lee developed the LFCD.
Some people swear by 'em, others believe they are expensive paperweights.
I've not found enough of a difference to form a conclusion, but I like the assurance a little crimp provides for some applications.

Joe
 
Not gonna tell you I haven't used a LFCD, they are great crimping tools.BUT. Much has been made of the perceived need for one. If you need one you have a feeding problem, even in a gas gun. If you use one on non cannalured bullets it will NOT improve your accuracy. Yes they will crimp on ANY bullet as advertised. I have NEVER seen a crimp improve my accuracy in anything in over 30 years handloading. You crimp in a heavy revolver load to insure a bullet doesn't "get loose" and lock up the cylinder.

Pardon me if I refrain from taking advice from a youtube video from " yada yada...sniper 101"

Don't crimp them, you don't need to if you have resized your brass properly and have proper neck tension.
 
I use the LFCD for all my .308 loads. I noticed an improvement in accuracy when I started crimping and since Im loading on a Dillon 550, its just setup in the last station in my toolhead. It's nice too since in a pinch, I can grab my bolt gun loads and toss them in my M1A and they work great! (I ALWAYS FL size...:)
 
I expect to try crimping soon. I have been watching videos from a guy who says without a crimp the bullet gently eases into the rifling very early in the powder ignition phase. With a crimp the powder undergoes slightly more complete combustion before overcoming the crimp.

This is one of the reasons that I use a LFCD when loading heavy revolver loads - the effective "freebore" on a revolver is so large that a firm crimp is required in order to get proper ignition with certain powders (H110 being a prime example).

Maybe the same holds true for a factory rifle with a long throat? Can't say that I've ever tried, but it seems like an easy enough experiment. A chrono would be really nice for this experiment - especially if testing at shorter ranges - since a reduction in SD or ES would be an indication of improved ignition consistency. If the bullets don't have a cannelure, just go easy on the crimp or else you might end up deforming the jacket and going the wrong way with accuracy.