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Gunsmithing Torque spec for FTE Brake

264shooter

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 1, 2009
419
15
65
Western Nevada
I just had a Badger FTE brake installed and there was no note on the recommended torque value for the clamp screw. I called Badger but they are closed for the week, they are all at the shot show.
Anybody know what that number is?

Thanks
 
I just had a Badger FTE brake installed and there was no note on the recommended torque value for the clamp screw. I called Badger but they are closed for the week, they are all at the shot show.
Anybody know what that number is?

Thanks

I run an FTE on my .300WM and don't see a reason to tighten it more than necessary to keep it from rotating(which hasn't been an issue and the screw hasn't ever loosened on me). I use a short allen wrench and go about 1/4 turn past contact. Never torqued it down but, if I did, I'd probably torque it to 25 in/lb. Please let me know if you find any official #s. Good thread.
 
I run an FTE on my .300WM and don't see a reason to tighten it more than necessary to keep it from rotating(which hasn't been an issue and the screw hasn't ever loosened on me). I use a short allen wrench and go about 1/4 turn past contact. Never torqued it down but, if I did, I'd probably torque it to 25 in/lb. Please let me know if you find any official #s. Good thread.

That is basically what I do on mine
 
It looks like quarter turn is about 65 in/lbs.
I have Seekonk T-Handle 65 in/lb torque wrench that I use on my action and scope rings.
I paid attention to where the screw started to snug up and the location of the handle, it snapped over at about a quarter turn.
I'm still going to call again next week and get an answer,
 
It looks like quarter turn is about 65 in/lbs.
I have Seekonk T-Handle 65 in/lb torque wrench that I use on my action and scope rings.
I paid attention to where the screw started to snug up and the location of the handle, it snapped over at about a quarter turn.
I'm still going to call again next week and get an answer,

can you say anal
 
You don't want it any tighter than necessary to keep it in place, compressing the barrel near the muzzle might mess with your accuracy.
 
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You don't want it any tighter than necessary to keep it in place, compressing the barrel near the muzzle might mess with your accuracy.

Your not compressing it, you are putting the muzzle shank in tension. Does it have an effect? Possibly, I threaded a few barrels for a gent who insisted that I time the brakes to 12:05. He would do the final install with Rocksett at 12:00 and no tension on the shank at all. He swore by it.
I like to shoot for 25-40 ft/lbs because I could see excessive torque being an issue, especially with a stainless barrel/brake.
 
I tighten mine clamp on brakes by feel. I snug them up while trying to turn the brake by hand. As soon as I can not easily turn it by hand it is tight enough. The bore WILL get tighter by over tightening it.

You can even choke the bore by over tightening a regular thread on brake due to the apposing angles of the thread surfaces.
 
Your not compressing it, you are putting the muzzle shank in tension. Does it have an effect? Possibly, I threaded a few barrels for a gent who insisted that I time the brakes to 12:05. He would do the final install with Rocksett at 12:00 and no tension on the shank at all. He swore by it.
I like to shoot for 25-40 ft/lbs because I could see excessive torque being an issue, especially with a stainless barrel/brake.

That all sounds great but they are talking about the CLAMP screw on an FTE brake. It DOES compress the barrel.....You sure you are a smith, or did you stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night?
 
That all sounds great but they are talking about the CLAMP screw on an FTE brake. It DOES compress the barrel.....You sure you are a smith, or did you stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night?

well if you have ever put a action wrench on a receiver you can over torque the bolts that the barrel will not turn, let alone screw on or off. I think you could do the same thing with a clamp-on gas block, clamp-on front sight or a clamp-on sling, may be good or bad, as in barrel tuner got to do a lot of testing to find the good spot.
 
Tipper I ain't sayin' you can't overtorque the damn thing. I was simply curious what his post had to do with torquing a CLAMP.
Yes having a known torque on a CLAMP, for a brake that is screwed onto the barrel and timed by the CLAMP, is a very good thing. I would say there are already several good suggestions here to do just that.
I would say torque it to the minimum torque, that would hinder a missing link like myself from moving it at all, with all the pressure I could exude from my rather sizable meathooks. Very scientific I know, but until an actual spec is given that will have to be good enough.
 
tipper i ain't sayin' you can't overtorque the damn thing. I was simply curious what his post had to do with torquing a clamp.
Yes having a known torque on a clamp, for a brake that is screwed onto the barrel and timed by the clamp, is a very good thing. I would say there are already several good suggestions here to do just that.
I would say torque it to the minimum torque, that would hinder a missing link like myself from moving it at all, with all the pressure i could exude from my rather sizable meathooks. Very scientific i know, but until an actual spec is given that will have to be good enough.

you did not
 
I did a couple groups with it simply indexed and then with 15 inch pounds with zero change and it did not loosen. I've shot a few hundred at 15 and it hasn't loosened. You can also see how much rotation is required to get at/close to 15 and just use an allen at that travel
 
That all sounds great but they are talking about the CLAMP screw on an FTE brake. It DOES compress the barrel.....You sure you are a smith, or did you stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night?

LOL, I'm a knucklehead! I missed the CLAMP SCREW aspect.

Sorry, making reservations at HIE now.........(hangs head in shame)
 
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The screw in the FTE is a 10-32 x 1/2" that uses a 5/32 key.
A torque spec chart from federal screw products calls for 29.7 in/lbs for a carbon steel screw.
That's just for what the screw it self is good for but that does not take in to consideration the clamp application.

It's just a number and it's not that big of deal, but I do believe in repeatable results.
The name of the game is the same..........every time.

I think a quarter turn is a little excessive, so I think I will go with an 1/8 of turn for now.