So today I tried removing the torx screws from the scope rail on my new Tikka t3x tac, and that didn’t work out the bit just slipped. Anyone got a solution for removal?
Gunsmithing Torx Problem
- Thread starter Tom Nixon
- Start date
If the head on the Torx screw is completely trashed, you can carefully drill the head out, using the same/similar diameter drill bit as the shank of the screw. Once through the head, it will walk up your drill bit a little, but the rail will be free. Remove the rail and carefully clamp a pair of small vise grips to the shank sticking out of the action and unscrew/remove the shank. Be careful not to mar or gouge the action right under the vise grips as you turn them.
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Take a soldering iron to the heads first. Heat them up. Then remove them. Also heat the rail up. There is stuff (loctite, epoxy or something similar) locking it all in place.
I just removed my Tikka Tac A1 rail about an hour ago to replace it with an Area 419 20 moa rail and it was unbelievably stubborn. I had to hit the rail with a torch a few times, and smacked the rail with a nylon mallet to loosen it up.
Instead of trying to turn the torx key with bare hands, I clamped it in vise grip pliers. Right after I hit it was a torch I put the torx key in place while gripping the vise grip and pushed down really hard as I turned and that broke the loctite bond finally. Whole process took me around 40 mins to an hour and the screws were damn close to stripping.
Instead of trying to turn the torx key with bare hands, I clamped it in vise grip pliers. Right after I hit it was a torch I put the torx key in place while gripping the vise grip and pushed down really hard as I turned and that broke the loctite bond finally. Whole process took me around 40 mins to an hour and the screws were damn close to stripping.
Yes, apparently The Tikka (and Sako) Pic rail has industrial adhesive holding both fastern threads and rail itself to the receive, this is why you need to heat it up.
google "tikka rail removal+iron"
.... and you'll get a bunch of hits across various forums dealing with this issue...
Good luck, OP
I removed the rail from my Sako TRG. I used a heat gun with a reducer tip (to restrict the heat to a small area) on the screws and rail. The rail seemed to be held on with some kind of epoxy and to remove that I used Klean Strip Strip-X Stripper (use in a well ventilated area) and a plastic scrapper, just take it slow and easy.
It’s easy to wreck a Torx head screw with a cheap bit, I bought some Wiha Impact Bits and haven’t had any problems.
Wiha Torx Bits
It’s easy to wreck a Torx head screw with a cheap bit, I bought some Wiha Impact Bits and haven’t had any problems.
Wiha Torx Bits
Wiha, Great shit made in Germany!!
Buy good tools, save yourself headaches.
Buy good tools, save yourself headaches.
^^^^^ What jetmd said
The reason torx/6 lobe was developed was to be able to handle a much higher torque than a allen/hex drive. It should be able to handle a lot of torque with a good tool. Especially since screws with 6 lobe or internal hex drive are almost always a harder screw like grade 8 or astm F835 vs a simple phillips machine screw. Some heat never hurts though if their is some type of thread locking compound.
Left hand drill bits or ez outs work for rounded screws.
The reason torx/6 lobe was developed was to be able to handle a much higher torque than a allen/hex drive. It should be able to handle a lot of torque with a good tool. Especially since screws with 6 lobe or internal hex drive are almost always a harder screw like grade 8 or astm F835 vs a simple phillips machine screw. Some heat never hurts though if their is some type of thread locking compound.
Left hand drill bits or ez outs work for rounded screws.
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