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Tripod head for spotting scope

opeagle

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Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 18, 2009
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Ohio
I’m looking for something on the better side for a tripod head to use with a spotting scope. I’ve seen recommendations for a geared head, but I tend to spot and move down the line to the next shooter, so I’m wondering if a geared head will prove to to slow to correct.

If I do look at geared, what should I be looking for? I’m likely going to stay with some type of ball head, and basically have the same question. What should I look at?


For context, I’ve been using a pistol grip head for years, and while it’s fast to move, they sometimes have more movement than I want. No, it’s not a really good one either, so I’m looking to upgrade.
 
Anvil 30 would be my pick. Simple to use and value priced for the quality you get.
 
"better side for a tripod head"... 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 ... sorry. I know what you were trying to say, but still got a good laugh as you can buy 2 or 3 AXMC's for the price of what some of the camera industry guys would even consider "good heads".


Geared heads can be very accurate. If you have a reticle in your spotter and absolutely need it precisely aligned on target within .1 mil every single time a gear head might be for you. Other wise I recommend avoiding them. They are a pain in the butt, imo.

I've tried several ball heads and pistol grips. They work ok, better than gear heads for my needs, but still not great. That's true of even the RRS offerings.

Pan/tilt heads are the next step in the right direction over ball heads, imo. Most are too cheaply made for my liking in field conditions.

The next step and the one I would advocate for a spotting scope is a fluid head. They are the smoothest scanning/panning head I've found. Quick and natural to point and to adjust. Just a few picked out in different price ranges as recommendations: Manfrotto 128, if you're a poor. Benro S6 if you're kinda poor. Manfrotto 504's are still just a friction head like the previously mentioned, but one of the better ones. Manfrotto N8 (now being replaced by the 608) is kinda the entry point of true counter balances. Smooth Camera Gear T8 might be one of the best values under $800. Past that is where the true continuous counter balanced heads start, but I'm guessing that's more than you want to spend?
 
I had a Manfrotto 410 geared head for many years. It worked well if you had all the time in the world to find and orient on a target. A couple of months ago I bought an RRS Anvil 30 and immediately sold the Manfrotto. It may not be as precise but it is way faster. My original use was a Spotter 45 with H32 reticle. I don’t feel I’ve lost much precision but gained a lot of speed and versatility by being able to use my rifles on the same head (with adapters as needed).
 
For what it's worth, I currently run a slick 634 tripod and an outdoorsman micro pan head. I really like it.
 
I had a Manfrotto 410 geared head for many years. It worked well if you had all the time in the world to find and orient on a target. A couple of months ago I bought an RRS Anvil 30 and immediately sold the Manfrotto. It may not be as precise but it is way faster. My original use was a Spotter 45 with H32 reticle. I don’t feel I’ve lost much precision but gained a lot of speed and versatility by being able to use my rifles on the same head (with adapters as needed).

+1

Added: most true fluid heads large enough to support the big optics like 95mm or shooting from are heavy as hell and large.

The new Outdoorsman Fluid $699 is 1.5lbs and shots up to a rifle. The pan tilt Berlebach 553 is $519 & 1.8lbs with my RRS QR. You don’t get the true counter balance of heads costing upwards of $5k but they are good dual purpose heads to also consider.
E6DC18FB-778C-4701-808B-FFC8C67DBEB0.jpeg

The added bonus of pan tilt is they can constrain *off balance loads that my Anvil, BH55 or any ball head struggle with. That said while pan tilt is best for grid glassing, you can get the job done with other heads; it just takes more practice.

*The Binos are heavy Swaro 56mm and way off center. The weight I listed is with the 5oz RRS QR head. The pan and tilt locks also lock solid.

All that said if your just at a range moving from shooter to shooter, never shooting off it, don’t pack it, use it in high wind or grid glass (searching) you can get away with just about anything. My thought would then be, look for something used off eBay in the class SharpsNitro recommend. There are tons of used fluid heads to choose from especially if you do not care about weight or shooting from using while an RRS dove tail.

FWIW I shoot off my RRS 33 and Anvil, but in a pinch can use the other tripod with the 553 to shoot from; Vice a versa.
 
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I use the Manfrotto 410 as well. It's big, heavy, well made and strong as a dose of the philippino clap, but I have a few minor bitches about it.

It's heavy as fuck! With the 410 mounted, if I swung the tripod at someone I could easily kill them. I use it because it helps align the reticle with targets. Also, the knobs are pretty stiff to turn. The force needed to rotate the knobs moves the scope just enough to be annoying.

I want to try the new polymer Xpro geared head. I hear it's lighter, and the knobs easier to turn.
 
sorry to give a poors solution, but just in case it is helpful.... :ROFLMAO:

i strongly considered both a fluid head (suggested by doug) and a geared head (suggested by many), but balked at the price of the heads.
being a poor, i found a compromise by using the anvil 30 as the primary tool, and i added a cheap Orion "precision slow motion adapter" for more precise aiming. It isn't particularly fine, so not as precise as a real gear head, but might actually be more useful because it isn't so dang slow.
i put my rangefinder on it for scanning targets as i felt it would be more useful for that, but i can put the spotter on it, or use it to aim the RF at the same point as the spotting scope.

E2S52rC.jpg
 
For checking out quickly a fluid head would be a better choice then a geared head. The best fluid head for the $$ is the Sirui VA5. Normally it's $169.90, members here get it for $148.41. Here is the link to see it:


Feel free to call me with any questions

Joel
516-217-1000
 
I use the Manfrotto 410 as well. It's big, heavy, well made and strong as a dose of the philippino clap, but I have a few minor bitches about it.

It's heavy as fuck! With the 410 mounted, if I swung the tripod at someone I could easily kill them. I use it because it helps align the reticle with targets. Also, the knobs are pretty stiff to turn. The force needed to rotate the knobs moves the scope just enough to be annoying.

I want to try the new polymer Xpro geared head. I hear it's lighter, and the knobs easier to turn.

The stuff we are discussing is for another use than the OP asked about. but oh well.

I have an Xpro 3 axis geared head on eBay. It is one of many I bought and tossed out. You don't want that one too much slop in it.

Nice tight geared heads are simply amazing if you're using subtensioned glass and calling shots - but, I'd go pan-tilt / fluid for regular spotting.

RRS MULTI SPOTTER.jpg

This simple set up similar to theLBC lets you co-witness, spotter binos and PLRF. Honestly, though, I will use the Bino's and spotter together for truck spotting along BLM or Forest roads, but never really all three as the distances are too far anyway. Usually, I scan with the binos and if someone sees something, use the binos to find the area fast then drill down with the spotter. You'd be surprised how many animals end up being parts of stumps, deadfall or a bolder once on the Swaro ATX spotter. LOL

The binos go on the right to bring them up to the same level as the spotter. The little RRS micro head on the left has constrained pan and super light for the PLRF. Once I I lock the spotter in the center, it is fast and easy to spin the others onto the same target. From that point on I can just move the main Pan Tilt 553 while on the Binos and the spotter follows.

I'll use this setup on the BT-ATLAS stage to score the shots on playing cards but the binos to spot the other distances in our up-coming UKD match.

For checking out quickly a fluid head would be a better choice then a geared head. The best fluid head for the $$ is the Sirui VA5. Normally it's $169.90, members here get it for $148.41. Here is the link to see it:


Feel free to call me with any questions

Joel
516-217-1000

Joel how much weight can that head manage smoothly?
 
The stuff we are discussing is for another use than the OP asked about. but oh well.

I have an Xpro 3 axis geared head on eBay. It is one of many I bought and tossed out. You don't want that one too much slop in it.

Nice tight geared heads are simply amazing if you're using subtensioned glass and calling shots - but, I'd go pan-tilt / fluid for regular spotting.

View attachment 7389959
This simple set up similar to theLBC lets you co-witness, spotter binos and PLRF. Honestly, though, I will use the Bino's and spotter together for truck spotting along BLM or Forest roads, but never really all three as the distances are too far anyway. Usually, I scan with the binos and if someone sees something, use the binos to find the area fast then drill down with the spotter. You'd be surprised how many animals end up being parts of stumps, deadfall or a bolder once on the Swaro ATX spotter. LOL

The binos go on the right to bring them up to the same level as the spotter. The little RRS micro head on the left has constrained pan and super light for the PLRF. Once I I lock the spotter in the center, it is fast and easy to spin the others onto the same target. From that point on I can just move the main Pan Tilt 553 while on the Binos and the spotter follows.

I'll use this setup on the BT-ATLAS stage to score the shots on playing cards but the binos to spot the other distances in our up-coming UKD match.



Joel how much weight can that head manage smoothly?


OK, due to your info and a few other reviews, I scratched the XPRO geared head off my list.
My main reason for ditching the 410 geared head was weight. I put the 410 on eBay and it sold within minutes of listing it. I won't be shooting off it, so I'll look at fluid heads like the one @cameraland mentioned.

What is that multi-mount rail thing called? A shorter version, to coaxially mount my laser and spotter would be nice to have.
 
OK, due to your info and a few other reviews, I scratched the XPRO geared head off my list.
My main reason for ditching the 410 geared head was weight. I put the 410 on eBay and it sold within minutes of listing it. I won't be shooting off it, so I'll look at fluid heads like the one @cameraland mentioned.

What is that multi-mount rail thing called? A shorter version, to coaxially mount my laser and spotter would be nice to have.
if you just search amazon for "arca rail" you should see some options. not saying to buy from there...
 
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The stuff we are discussing is for another use than the OP asked about. but oh well.

I have an Xpro 3 axis geared head on eBay. It is one of many I bought and tossed out. You don't want that one too much slop in it.

Nice tight geared heads are simply amazing if you're using subtensioned glass and calling shots - but, I'd go pan-tilt / fluid for regular spotting.

View attachment 7389959
This simple set up similar to theLBC lets you co-witness, spotter binos and PLRF. Honestly, though, I will use the Bino's and spotter together for truck spotting along BLM or Forest roads, but never really all three as the distances are too far anyway. Usually, I scan with the binos and if someone sees something, use the binos to find the area fast then drill down with the spotter. You'd be surprised how many animals end up being parts of stumps, deadfall or a bolder once on the Swaro ATX spotter. LOL

The binos go on the right to bring them up to the same level as the spotter. The little RRS micro head on the left has constrained pan and super light for the PLRF. Once I I lock the spotter in the center, it is fast and easy to spin the others onto the same target. From that point on I can just move the main Pan Tilt 553 while on the Binos and the spotter follows.

I'll use this setup on the BT-ATLAS stage to score the shots on playing cards but the binos to spot the other distances in our up-coming UKD match.



Joel how much weight can that head manage smoothly?

About 10 lbs. rated at 6.6, but we have used it with lenses that weigh 10 with no issues
 
Yes, it is awesome. A little heavy but an excellent head
 
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OK, due to your info and a few other reviews, I scratched the XPRO geared head off my list.
My main reason for ditching the 410 geared head was weight. I put the 410 on eBay and it sold within minutes of listing it. I won't be shooting off it, so I'll look at fluid heads like the one @cameraland mentioned.

What is that multi-mount rail thing called? A shorter version, to coaxially mount my laser and spotter would be nice to have.

That is an RRS Cinema Rail. They come from 7" to 17"
 
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I run a Gitzo fluid head with my Swaro ATX 95mm on an RRS tripod. I am happy with the Gitzo head and don't see a need to change. The head weighs in at 1.3 lbs, so while not light, it's not extremely heavy. I also own an RRS Anvil but prefer to use the Anvil for rifle work and the Gitzo for the glass.
 
I run a Gitzo fluid head with my Swaro ATX 95mm on an RRS tripod. I am happy with the Gitzo head and don't see a need to change. The head weighs in at 1.3 lbs, so while not light, it's not extremely heavy. I also own an RRS Anvil but prefer to use the Anvil for rifle work and the Gitzo for the glass.

Which model Gitzo do you have? I'm curious, since I just ordered a GHF2W pan / tilt fluid head. The specs say 1.3lbs.

No issues with it?
 
Which model Gitzo do you have? I'm curious, since I just ordered a GHF2W pan / tilt fluid head. The specs say 1.3lbs.

No issues with it?

I have the GHF2W. I have had no issues with mine and have a friend who also has one that has seen quite a bit of use and his has been flawless also.
 
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I went with a leveling base with a pan head built in from sunwayfoto. This allows for getting it level and then planning on a level plane, but doesn’t risk flopping over like a smaller ball head.
 
I went out the other day and tested a few cheap heads to mine on the left. I have some other tripods not shown, one 3372 with RRS leveling base as well as the RRS BH-55.

1. Left is the 553 pan/tilt head, ideal for grid glassing. It supports way more weight locked solid than listed but the dampening and sping assist are set to work best within it's load range. Personally, I don't use that feature even when I have two really heavy optics to top like the SWARO ATX and Swaro 15x-56 . It easily lock solidly my carbon barreled hunting gun. It is still much lighter than my RRS BH-55 ballhead

2. is the classic Anvil setup.. hard to beat the stability in a light small robust package

3. Super cheap knock off. It sized closer to the 2 series of RRS and a bit steeper leg angles so it's a little less sure-footed and a bunch more shakey.

4. Fesiol 3472 ( I also have the 3372 3 leg version) , personally just like some guys are buying the PRS 2 leg RRS for speed, any 4 leg is just the opposite. I prefer the balance the 3 leg tripods provide, especially when out in the hills. This setup is still a bit more stable than the Leofoto


RRS vrs other.png
I

Have a 553 pan tilt in the photo I posted with the ATX and Swaro 15x56 in post number 7 - but here it is shooting from as well.

RRS with 553 Pan head shooting.png
 
Enough above for me to find something useful, i think. But, i wrote this other stuff so please, you gotta read it. Thanks, folks.
If youre not into being dithered with, please go to LAST SENTENCE. Otherwise … For a variety of reasons, aiming at not bench, not precision, somewhat in between. Mostly, if assume prone position, couldn’t get up/recover without lotta help; couldnt do more than a few seconds kneeling, couple more handsfulls of seconds standing. Most of it without much effective aiming of anything going on. Y’all get it. So, whatever that is, im sure theres no rules, or sponsoring organization like the Olympics, li’ dat. All good with me. So what is, is: generally organized social/shooting activity; (assigned)bench/table space; your gear; paper at some common distance. Y’all get it. Oh yeah, electric scooters or some such to check (hopefully) holes in paper (downrange). This is so thrilling, my huevos are gelling. Pretty sure something like this happens in lots of communities around the US. Just never where i was, and if you were so inclined to do such social shooting activity, the city &/ county shall have been trying to take the range away for going on 10 years because some rat bastard wanted to situate a new subdivision right in the middle of your outdoor range, and youre now restricted by court edict to operating as an outdoor air rifle shooting gallery until the SOBs take your range away. Ok, im ready: should i find all enabling conditions, im sharing out my birdee spotting scope (65-80) with such social, shooting (yes, bullets, not bbs) activity. Unless somebody sez 65-80 is not enough. FINALLY: my current tripod is too frickin heavy. If y’all would: tripod recommendations, please. LAST SENTENCE: what’s a promising tripod for sports shooting versus birding; im convinced (but dont know if) the activity’s are different enough.
 
For checking out quickly a fluid head would be a better choice then a geared head. The best fluid head for the $$ is the Sirui VA5. Normally it's $169.90, members here get it for $148.41. Here is the link to see it:


Feel free to call me with any questions

Joel
516-217-1000

I got a kowa 553 from you guys last year and bought a cheap table top tripod with it. Its served its purpose but I think its time to upgrade. I believe its the ball type mentioned above. I run the 553 as a digiscope most of the time but its still pretty light. I use it a lot for hiking so I was hoping there were some options that didn't weigh 3-4 lbs. Also do I need new legs or can I put a new head on mine? They're not great but work. The head gives me fits trying to get fine placement on things over a mile away.

20210628_215101.jpg