I have been reading and learning alot on this site. Thanks to what has been shared on this site I trued my first 700 receiver a few days ago. One question that I have not been able to find an answer to is; what is the major diameter of the barrel shank for the trued receiver. This is what I came up with and please tell me if I am wrong or right. I am using full profile lay down cutters for my threads. My internal threading insert is a class 2B with a thread depth of .036. If I add the thread depth(x2) to the new minor diameter(1.012) of the reciever I get 1.084. Can I use the 1.084 as a major diameter for the barrel tennon? My external cutter is a class 2A with a thread depth of .039. I am not sure how much I cut the reciever threads, I just cut until they were clean all the way around. Thanks for your response.
Gunsmithing Truing Receiver
- Thread starter Sharps45110
- Start date
Re: Truing Receiver
What did you cut the tenon ring threads to for a major diameter?
If you had to open them all the way to 1.084 then you can do that, although, if you just cleaned them up, they're probably in the 1.065-1.075 range so the major diameter at 1.084 is going to be too large.
What did you cut the tenon ring threads to for a major diameter?
If you had to open them all the way to 1.084 then you can do that, although, if you just cleaned them up, they're probably in the 1.065-1.075 range so the major diameter at 1.084 is going to be too large.
Re: Truing Receiver
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: azshooter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Your major thread diameter should not exceed 1.063" </div></div>
even after he opened up the receiver threads? if so, i don't agree with that.
to the op, did your insert cut all the way down so the crest of the threads was cut also, ie make a true full profile?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: azshooter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Your major thread diameter should not exceed 1.063" </div></div>
even after he opened up the receiver threads? if so, i don't agree with that.
to the op, did your insert cut all the way down so the crest of the threads was cut also, ie make a true full profile?
Re: Truing Receiver
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 300sniper</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: azshooter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Your major thread diameter should not exceed 1.063" </div></div>
even after he opened up the receiver threads? if so, i don't agree with that.
to the op, did your insert cut all the way down so the crest of the threads was cut also, ie make a true full profile?</div></div>
Right... he did say a "trued" receiver.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 300sniper</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: azshooter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Your major thread diameter should not exceed 1.063" </div></div>
even after he opened up the receiver threads? if so, i don't agree with that.
to the op, did your insert cut all the way down so the crest of the threads was cut also, ie make a true full profile?</div></div>
Right... he did say a "trued" receiver.
Re: Truing Receiver
Yes, I used dykem on the threads and then I cut until the dykem was removed from the entire thread. After that I took a .001 pass to make sure I cut a full profile.
Yes, I used dykem on the threads and then I cut until the dykem was removed from the entire thread. After that I took a .001 pass to make sure I cut a full profile.
Re: Truing Receiver
i have not gone to full profile inserts but plan to. i <span style="font-style: italic">think</span> your math is good. with the full profile insert on both the internal and external threads, i don't think you can cause the roots and crests to make contact before the thread pitch, especially if you are using the receiver as the gauge. don't take what i say as gospel though because i haven't spent much time thinking about it.
edit: 1.084" od <span style="font-style: italic">may</span> be a bit too tight. do you have the manufacture and part number of the inserts you are using. i'd like to see the dimensions of them.
i have not gone to full profile inserts but plan to. i <span style="font-style: italic">think</span> your math is good. with the full profile insert on both the internal and external threads, i don't think you can cause the roots and crests to make contact before the thread pitch, especially if you are using the receiver as the gauge. don't take what i say as gospel though because i haven't spent much time thinking about it.
edit: 1.084" od <span style="font-style: italic">may</span> be a bit too tight. do you have the manufacture and part number of the inserts you are using. i'd like to see the dimensions of them.
Re: Truing Receiver
Forgive my ignorance here, but isn't the class of threads determined by the minor diameter (internal threads), and not the cutter?
I think if you use 1.084" and then dress the tops of the threads with a file, it will likely be very close. Like said above, just have the receiver handy to use as the gauge.
Forgive my ignorance here, but isn't the class of threads determined by the minor diameter (internal threads), and not the cutter?
I think if you use 1.084" and then dress the tops of the threads with a file, it will likely be very close. Like said above, just have the receiver handy to use as the gauge.
Re: Truing Receiver
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sharps45110</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have been reading and learning alot on this site. Thanks to what has been shared on this site I trued my first 700 receiver a few days ago. One question that I have not been able to find an answer to is; what is the major diameter of the barrel shank for the trued receiver. This is what I came up with and please tell me if I am wrong or right. I am using full profile lay down cutters for my threads. My internal threading insert is a class 2B with a thread depth of .036. If I add the thread depth(x2) to the new minor diameter(1.012) of the reciever I get 1.084. Can I use the 1.084 as a major diameter for the barrel tennon? My external cutter is a class 2A with a thread depth of .039. I am not sure how much I cut the reciever threads, I just cut until they were clean all the way around. Thanks for your response. </div></div>
Once the receiver threads have been re-cut as to give 95 to 100% clean up I set all dials back to zero and advance the threading tool in to just remove the first two threads. This will give you a reference point to measure and let you know the Major Diameter.
Now for the truth. The crest of the barrel threads never touches the root of the receiver threads. If you turn your tenon to 1.0625" and thread for fit you'll be fine. That’s the way a large percentage of the smiths do it and the results speak for them self’s. If you just cleaned up the receiver threads chances are your Major Diameter is around 1.072" to 1.082"
Measure the Minor Diameter of the receiver threads and add .054" to that. Cut your tenon to that diameter and sail on.
Once again I see someone giving advice that they've either read or heard. My advice is from experience as is several others that have posted.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sharps45110</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have been reading and learning alot on this site. Thanks to what has been shared on this site I trued my first 700 receiver a few days ago. One question that I have not been able to find an answer to is; what is the major diameter of the barrel shank for the trued receiver. This is what I came up with and please tell me if I am wrong or right. I am using full profile lay down cutters for my threads. My internal threading insert is a class 2B with a thread depth of .036. If I add the thread depth(x2) to the new minor diameter(1.012) of the reciever I get 1.084. Can I use the 1.084 as a major diameter for the barrel tennon? My external cutter is a class 2A with a thread depth of .039. I am not sure how much I cut the reciever threads, I just cut until they were clean all the way around. Thanks for your response. </div></div>
Once the receiver threads have been re-cut as to give 95 to 100% clean up I set all dials back to zero and advance the threading tool in to just remove the first two threads. This will give you a reference point to measure and let you know the Major Diameter.
Now for the truth. The crest of the barrel threads never touches the root of the receiver threads. If you turn your tenon to 1.0625" and thread for fit you'll be fine. That’s the way a large percentage of the smiths do it and the results speak for them self’s. If you just cleaned up the receiver threads chances are your Major Diameter is around 1.072" to 1.082"
Measure the Minor Diameter of the receiver threads and add .054" to that. Cut your tenon to that diameter and sail on.
Once again I see someone giving advice that they've either read or heard. My advice is from experience as is several others that have posted.
Re: Truing Receiver
300Sniper: The inserts are from Sandvik Coromant. The external is a 3/8 size 2A class part# R166.0G-16UN01-160. The internal is a 1/4 size 2B class part# R166.0L-11UN01-160.
Wnroscoe: I was going to perform the operation that you suggested but I got a little excited that I did not destroy anything and pulled the receiver from the jig before I could cut the first two threads. That is when I started looking at the specs on the threading inserts and that is what prompted my question.
One other question that I have. Do any of you use cutting oil to true the reciever?
300Sniper: The inserts are from Sandvik Coromant. The external is a 3/8 size 2A class part# R166.0G-16UN01-160. The internal is a 1/4 size 2B class part# R166.0L-11UN01-160.
Wnroscoe: I was going to perform the operation that you suggested but I got a little excited that I did not destroy anything and pulled the receiver from the jig before I could cut the first two threads. That is when I started looking at the specs on the threading inserts and that is what prompted my question.
One other question that I have. Do any of you use cutting oil to true the reciever?
Re: Truing Receiver
Here's what I'd do.
Get a chunk of steel and turn/thread it like it was a barrel and trial fit it to your action first. The point being you avoid potentially goofing a good barrel if your unsure of where to start. Maybe it takes a few times to be sure but its still money ahead of a $300 barrel and the 6 week wait.
I always cut Remington threads to 1.085" to take any guesswork out of where things are. I also punch the minor ID out the same +.022" so that the thread form still looks right. this way you don't have razor sharp thread crests.
From there turn the stub/test piece to 1.082" and thread till the action just goes on.
Gauges, pitch diameters, and thread wires/mics are great to have and use when manufacturing 1000's of parts that have to assemble into another part that you don't have access to.
That statement is counter to what a custom hand fitted rifle is supposed to be however and I can't help but think that since the barrels are individually fitted to the actions were building off of why depend on them? Every gauge specification I've ever seen has a +/- tolerance. If the barrel is fitted to the action where it just barely makes it onto the action (without galling of course) then you know that you have a good fit that is more apt to resist movement/deflection during a course of fire. Minimizing the gaps on the thread flanks/pitch diameter promotes a more stable joint which is absolutely critical on a 60* thread form since only about the first three/four threads up by the shoulder are supporting the joint anyway. (slice a loaded joint in half once and view it under polarized light and you'll see exactly what I'm talking about-well understood in aerospace) The PITCH DIAMETER of a thread is where the tensile loading takes place. Crest/root diameters are more or less "along for the ride" and if you depend on them your apt to enjoy the experience of removing a stuck barrel-especially with stainless on stainless.
Just something to consider.
Good luck.
C
Here's what I'd do.
Get a chunk of steel and turn/thread it like it was a barrel and trial fit it to your action first. The point being you avoid potentially goofing a good barrel if your unsure of where to start. Maybe it takes a few times to be sure but its still money ahead of a $300 barrel and the 6 week wait.
I always cut Remington threads to 1.085" to take any guesswork out of where things are. I also punch the minor ID out the same +.022" so that the thread form still looks right. this way you don't have razor sharp thread crests.
From there turn the stub/test piece to 1.082" and thread till the action just goes on.
Gauges, pitch diameters, and thread wires/mics are great to have and use when manufacturing 1000's of parts that have to assemble into another part that you don't have access to.
That statement is counter to what a custom hand fitted rifle is supposed to be however and I can't help but think that since the barrels are individually fitted to the actions were building off of why depend on them? Every gauge specification I've ever seen has a +/- tolerance. If the barrel is fitted to the action where it just barely makes it onto the action (without galling of course) then you know that you have a good fit that is more apt to resist movement/deflection during a course of fire. Minimizing the gaps on the thread flanks/pitch diameter promotes a more stable joint which is absolutely critical on a 60* thread form since only about the first three/four threads up by the shoulder are supporting the joint anyway. (slice a loaded joint in half once and view it under polarized light and you'll see exactly what I'm talking about-well understood in aerospace) The PITCH DIAMETER of a thread is where the tensile loading takes place. Crest/root diameters are more or less "along for the ride" and if you depend on them your apt to enjoy the experience of removing a stuck barrel-especially with stainless on stainless.
Just something to consider.
Good luck.
C
Re: Truing Receiver
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sharps45110</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wnroscoe: I was going to perform the operation that you suggested but <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">I got a little excited that I did not destroy anything and pulled the receiver from the jig before I could cut the first two threads.</span></span> That is when I started looking at the specs on the threading inserts and that is what prompted my question.
One other question that I have. Do any of you use cutting oil to true the reciever? </div></div>
I understand. Did you need a wetnap
A little oil never hurts anything. Measure the thread minor diameter and work in reverse, you'll be OK
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sharps45110</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wnroscoe: I was going to perform the operation that you suggested but <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">I got a little excited that I did not destroy anything and pulled the receiver from the jig before I could cut the first two threads.</span></span> That is when I started looking at the specs on the threading inserts and that is what prompted my question.
One other question that I have. Do any of you use cutting oil to true the reciever? </div></div>
I understand. Did you need a wetnap
A little oil never hurts anything. Measure the thread minor diameter and work in reverse, you'll be OK
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