- Thread starter GetReal
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Where can a person read about the ignition power of primers such that in a pinch they can substitute pistol primers into rifles / mag primers for standard / rifle for HG?
For example - large pistol mag primer v. large rifle primer?
For example - large pistol mag primer v. large rifle primer?
Be aware that rifle primers have thicker cups in order to withstand the higher pressures rifle ammunition generates.
As I understand it using rifle primers in pistol rounds may be problematic as pistol springs may not always have enough power to ensure reliable ignition.
Never use pistol primers in rifle rounds as the thinner cups can cause blown primers.
Just my .02 worth. Others may say different.
As I understand it using rifle primers in pistol rounds may be problematic as pistol springs may not always have enough power to ensure reliable ignition.
Never use pistol primers in rifle rounds as the thinner cups can cause blown primers.
Just my .02 worth. Others may say different.
I have used Remington 6 1/2 primers in 9mm and in 45 GAP when I owned one. No issues
I have shot thousands of 9mm major in uspsa with Winchester small rifle primers. As mentioned the cup is harder but there is no other issues.
@Lange Carabine I’m thinking 7mag exc... The reason I’m asking - I have a 6mm creedmoor and the only primers I can find are magnum.
Good to hear they work ok. I have some 44 Mag rounds I loaded years ago for use in a rifle with lr primers. Ill have to give them a try in my Ruger SBH and see if they go bang.
I was just yanking you're chain. It makes no difference really. Might back off the charge a bit to compensate for the slightly higher pressures of magnum primers with max loads. I used to use CCI 250 primers in my .30-06 M1 loads as they were supposed to eliminate slam fires and in other "standard" cartridges when they were all I had.
FWIW, Speer recommends the use of magnum primers in nearly all of their loads using ball powders regardless to whether the cartridge is a "magnum" or not.
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I've run CCI 400's in my .38 loads for a few hundred rounds and I had just a very minor bump in velocity, however I did see better ES over a 20 shot group, which could account for the "bump" in velocity. IF I can find them in the future, I'll probably switch to 400's or any regular rifle primer completely...as that would make my primer stash down to only two types.
I have run a couple in some light/medium 9mm loads with titegroup and didn't have a problem. NO extensive testing but I can't imagine you'd have issues. From MULTIPLE forum posts of guys who have contacted CCI or primer manufacturers, they have found that SRP's are very close to SPP's, with some being close to SPM's....either way, probably safe if you do proper workup
I use SRP in my loads for the 38 Super Auto +P+ race gun. Works great.
I'm running Tula small rifle primers in my race guns. Never had a FTF after thousands of rounds....
I use Winchester small rifle in my 9mm/40/357mag rounds, I'm using the stock hammer springs or striker springs. I started during the last primer shortage, never switched back.
Just back off a grain or two from your max charge with pistol primers and carefully work back up.
I use SRM primers in my 6.5 grendel loads. Just work up your load with that primer. I don't think I would substitute a SRM in a load you had developed with a SR primer without backing off the charge and working back up.
I use my 9mm w/SRP in Glocks and CZ's, but I do not use reduced power striker or hammer springs. I've had zero problems with miss fires.
I always run srp in my pistol loads. Only buy srp, and then there is no way I get spp into my 223 stuff by accident. Have shot thousands of rounds in uspsa with srp. Don’t worry about the spring issues, it should not matter unless you are running super light target springs.
CZ 9mm and Glock 19
1. 115 blue bullet, 3.8 red dot- 125pf. My go to load. Don’t laugh at the red dot, it meters like water through my dillon. 4.1 will get you 130pf (or 1134 fps)
2. 115 Blue bullet-3.7 Vita 320 -117pf
3. 105 Bayou-4.0 Vita 320. 121pf
JP and Lead Star 9mm PCC
105 Bayou. 5.0 Vita 340- 1370 fps or 143pf
115 Blue bullet. 3.5 red dot gives 1211 fps and 139 pf.
I could come down a little off this load, but if I’m running splits in the .16-.18 range, does it really matter?
thoughts- my Dillon hates Vita 320! The powder will slosh a little and get into the rim grooves on the shell plate, and cause a lot of primer seating problems. I know this is supposed to be a premium clean burning powder, but man what a hassle. Red dot flows with no problems!
my CZ HATES the Bayou Bullets, while both of my PCCs will eat them like freaking candy. Go figure. After sorting this out, my future load will be 115 BB and Red Dot. All the guns will run it, I just have to tweak the powder charge a little depending on what I’m loading for. Keep it simple For success! Good luck with your project.
CZ 9mm and Glock 19
1. 115 blue bullet, 3.8 red dot- 125pf. My go to load. Don’t laugh at the red dot, it meters like water through my dillon. 4.1 will get you 130pf (or 1134 fps)
2. 115 Blue bullet-3.7 Vita 320 -117pf
3. 105 Bayou-4.0 Vita 320. 121pf
JP and Lead Star 9mm PCC
105 Bayou. 5.0 Vita 340- 1370 fps or 143pf
115 Blue bullet. 3.5 red dot gives 1211 fps and 139 pf.
I could come down a little off this load, but if I’m running splits in the .16-.18 range, does it really matter?
thoughts- my Dillon hates Vita 320! The powder will slosh a little and get into the rim grooves on the shell plate, and cause a lot of primer seating problems. I know this is supposed to be a premium clean burning powder, but man what a hassle. Red dot flows with no problems!
my CZ HATES the Bayou Bullets, while both of my PCCs will eat them like freaking candy. Go figure. After sorting this out, my future load will be 115 BB and Red Dot. All the guns will run it, I just have to tweak the powder charge a little depending on what I’m loading for. Keep it simple For success! Good luck with your project.
