Gunsmithing Using anti-seaze for barrel changing

Re: Using anti-seaze for barrel changing

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DebosDave ©</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I use some copper anti-seize on the barrels I have changed out.

DD </div></div>

Same here
 
Re: Using anti-seaze for barrel changing

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DebosDave ©</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I use some copper anti-seize on the barrels I have changed out.

DD </div></div>

+1...

I use the C5-A used to be by Felpro now it's made by another company. I think Loctite.

I use 2 small beads of it slightly larger than a couple of BBs. A small plastic jar will last you most of your life. I bought a 1 quart can of the old stuff and gave most of it away. A 35mm film tube will keep most shooters in anti-sieze the rest of their life if they don't change several a month.
 
Re: Using anti-seaze for barrel changing

Both the copper based stuff and the nickel based stuff will work. I always use some form of antiseize on the barrel threads.

Glock does use some copper based anti seize in their guns for lube.
 
Re: Using anti-seaze for barrel changing

I clean threads well and then use choke tube lubricant (bead down each side as Victor described). The important thing is that it should be "metal fortified" to keep the threads from galling. Anti-seize and the copper stuff should do that, also.

Cheers,

Bill
 
Re: Using anti-seaze for barrel changing

I have taken ~ 100 barrels off. Different things I have seen on barrel threads:
Moly grease
boat trailer wheel bearing grease
motor oil
Break Free CLP
Loctite
Looks like White-Out Rem factory 700
anti-seize
rust
nothing

The vapor pressure of grease is lower and should last longer, but barrels put on 70 years ago are all dry.

I have seen galling twice in guns:
1) Chipmunk 22 firing pin inside bolt
2) Out of round Rem700 action trying on different factory take off barrels

I have cut threads and chamber and screwed on ~25 barrels. I typically put on:
Moly grease
motor oil
Nothing

But I am usually working with actions that have an inner C ring, where the shoulder butts and the breech butts leaving the tenon threads in tension near the shoulder and in compression near the inner C ring.

Rifles without an inner C ring may need loctite to keep from shooting loose.
Previous SH thread on barrel thread friction

What does it all mean?
You must define the problem. What are you trying to prevent?
galling?
barrel shooting loose?
barrel too hard to remove later?
dissimilar metal sacrificial anode corrosion?




 
Re: Using anti-seaze for barrel changing

Although I understand it's pretty rare, a while back, I had a hell of time getting my old AI barrel off an AW .308. By the time I was done, the old barrel looked like hell (good thing it was shot out). The threads were bone dry. I use a copper based anti-seize now (can't remember the brand it just came in a generic white jar). I've swapped the barrel out several times since then (not due to barrel wear, but changed calibers a couple of times) without a single problem. I definitely reccomend using something like anti-seize - I bought mine at Sinclair (pretty sure).
 
Re: Using anti-seaze for barrel changing

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I use some copper anti-seize on the barrels I have changed out.

DD</div></div>

Same here