Using steel with no holes

T

timelinex

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
    • May 7, 2011
    1,382
    33
    Scottsdale,Az
    #1
    So I'm planning on getting some ar500 locally but all the places I've talked to can cut it into what I want but none of them can make small holes in it! Seems like they should be able to if they can cut it in the first place....but regardless, that's the deal.. So what are your guy's ideas of attaching the steel to the err of the setup.

    I was thinking buying clamps and clamping chains/belts to the steel, but it seems like they would vibrate loose.

    I have no experience or tools to wield, so that's out of the picture, without spending more $$

    Any other ideas?
     
    #2
    Re: Using steel with no holes

    Take it and put it at 50 yards and shoot a green tip 223 through it where you want the hole.
    or closer.
    Disclaimer " i have never done it but sounds like a good idea " LOL....LOL...
     
    #4
    Re: Using steel with no holes

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tripwire</div><div class="ubbcode-body">EDM, plasma torch, water jet....come to mind.

    Weld hangers on the back side and be done with it...... </div></div>
    To be honest, other than knowing those are welding terms I have no idea what they are.. I'm really not trying to spend more $$ on tools that I'll use once, got to many of em at this point haha

    Closest thing I got is a glue gun
    grin.gif
     
    #7
    Re: Using steel with no holes

    So your saying making little slits in 2x4's and build a box around the steel by nailing them together and then connect hardware to that?

    Seems like a legitimate idea, if nothing better pops up might do that, thanks.
     
    #8
    Re: Using steel with no holes

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: schmitty</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Any fab shop should be able to cut holes in it with a plasma. probably wouldnt cost much at all (like under 40$). should take them no more than a few minutes. </div></div>
    Paying 40 dollars to cut holes in 20 dollars of steel doesn't make much sense to me
    cool.gif


    If I knew people "in the biz" this wouldn't be a problem and could of done fast and free, but unfortunately I don't, so I will be charged!
     
    #9
    Re: Using steel with no holes

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: timelinex</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tripwire</div><div class="ubbcode-body">EDM, plasma torch, water jet....come to mind.

    Weld hangers on the back side and be done with it...... </div></div>
    To be honest, other than knowing those are welding terms I have no idea what they are.. I'm really not trying to spend more $$ on tools that I'll use once, got to many of em at this point haha

    Closest thing I got is a glue gun
    grin.gif
    </div></div>

    Sorta meant you could pay someone to use those methods to cut your holes....

    EDM - Electrical Discharge Machining, very effective way to cut a hole with no detriment to the hardness of the base metal. Company I worked for EDM'd holes of all shapes and sizes in carbide laced hardface and other "alloys".

    Plasma Torch - electric cutting torch.

    Water Jet - Uses high pressure water stream to cut the metal.

    As far as spending more money; you are going to have pay someone if you can't do the holes yourself.

    If you can't make connections with a bargain on the methods above, then the next best thing is to have a good welder attach some anchors on the back for you. Hell, I'd do it for you, likely no charge, if you were anywhere close.

    Found this, FWIW.....

    http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=21102
     
    #11
    Re: Using steel with no holes

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: timelinex</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
    Paying 40 dollars to cut holes in 20 dollars of steel doesn't make much sense to me
    cool.gif


    If I knew people "in the biz" this wouldn't be a problem and could of done fast and free, but unfortunately I don't, so I will be charged! </div></div>

    Don't take this the wrong way but as of the present you have "20 dollar steel". You want holes in it to hang it from. The holes add value to the steel as far as you are concerned simply because you can't put "free" holes in it yourself. You then would have "60 dollar steel".

    Sometimes you gotta bite the bullet to get what you need/want.........
     
    #12
    Re: Using steel with no holes

    Ok, I'll try to ask them why they can't do it....imdoubt they don't have any of those tools ...

    Im planning on getting a 12" for 1000+yds, 8" for 400-1000yds and 4" for <400yds. I was thinking 3/8 thickness for the 12/8 and 1/2 for the 4" since it will be used at closer distances. Is that good or do I even need the 1/2" at all, it's barely any more $$ but if I don't need it then , hey the less weight for me to carry. I use a 308, but want to have something that will stand up to bigger calibers too(not 50 cal big, but bigger than 308)
     
    #13
    Re: Using steel with no holes

    yeah i know it doesnt make much sense but its just kinda the way it is. they might not even charge you 40$ i was just kinda throwin out a figure. it would seriously take maybe 3 mins to actually cut 2 holes in the steel. if you consider getting something welded to it, take into consideration that welding to ar500 will mess with the hardness (make it softer). it would probably require a lotta hits on target around the welded area before you noticed any deformation or failure of the welded area though. or, as stated above, get up some scrap 2x4s and build you a frame on the cheap.
     
    #15
    Re: Using steel with no holes

    I don't understand why they can't put holes if they can cut the steel. As far as the guy above that says welding would make it softer, you do realize the haz would only be a very small area around the weld even if it was preheated like you are suppose to with ar steel. OP, if you get the steel cut, try a small garage around your area. Most of them should have oxy/acetylene and they may do it for little or nothing.
     
    #16
    Re: Using steel with no holes

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: schmitty</div><div class="ubbcode-body">if you consider getting something welded to it, take into consideration that welding to ar500 will mess with the hardness (make it softer). it would probably require a lotta hits on target around the welded area before you noticed any deformation or failure of the welded area though. or, as stated above, get up some scrap 2x4s and build you a frame on the cheap. </div></div>

    Oh come on......

    A "lotta" is a LOT.

    Couldn't tell you how many thousands of rounds these 1/2" plates have taken. Enough that they developed radial stress cracks and chunks have been cracked out of them (not where there's chain welded on the back mind you), welded back up with 70 series wire, ground smooth, and shot up again. On the orange one, what we're shooting at now was the back side, up until just recently.....

    Shit, they HAD bolt holes in 'em when they first got here, but I got tired of replacing bolts so I just welded the damn holes shut and put chain on the back.

    These plates have been around for at least 15 years that I know of. If it bothered us enough we'd figure the money's worth was gotten long ago, and replace 'em..... but, there's a welding machine around here somewhere.

    500yds83112.jpg

    1k1.jpg

    weld6.jpg
     
    #17
    Re: Using steel with no holes

    Most weld shops have a minimum charge for any work done. Usually $20 in my area. Call around see what you can find.

    But if your suppiler can cut the steel in the first place they should be able to cut the holes at the same time.

    Cut
     
    #18
    Re: Using steel with no holes

    Plasma and especially oxycetelyne cutting would screw with the temper just as much if not more in the immediate vicinity of the cut as welding. Its probably not much, and it should be localized, but since its been mentioned, heat is heat if it melts the metal it changes the metal.
     
    #19
    Re: Using steel with no holes

    Or you could stop messing around and just buy one of our Round Sets for $109 shipped that include a 12", 8", 6" & 4" Circle in laser cut 10mm AR500. We also have the same size sets except with squares in 3/8" thick waterjet cut AR500 for $130 shipped or $160 shipped for 1/2" thick waterjet cut AR500.

    Ours even have slightly oversized 1/2" holes in them
    wink.gif


    http://snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2763376#Post2763376

     
    #20
    Re: Using steel with no holes

    Get the plates cut from mild steel then just go and buy the cheapest panda brand drill not a cordless you will find eBay is prob best and a 12mm drill bit and drill the wholes should only cost you about $20 and your done then just attach with d shackles and chains use 2 chains to reduce deflection and its job done I can't see why a shop that can cut the plate wouldn't have a pedestal drill and couldn't drill the wholes for you I only have a little one and it has no problems drilling 1 1/4" steel plate I make all my targets from mild steel they last over 100 rounds at 100 yards and my half inch ones last ages at 500 yards
     
    #21
    Re: Using steel with no holes

    if you have an engineering school or place that trains people and they need projects they might do it for free if your lucky i've done this on a few projects where i don't have the tools

    that being said beer speaks a million languages
     
    #22
    Re: Using steel with no holes

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: osuarchitect</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Or you could stop messing around and just buy one of our Round Sets for $109 shipped that include a 12", 8", 6" & 4" Circle in laser cut 10mm AR500. We also have the same size sets except with squares in 3/8" thick waterjet cut AR500 for $130 shipped or $160 shipped for 1/2" thick waterjet cut AR500.

    Ours even have slightly oversized 1/2" holes in them
    wink.gif


    http://snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2763376#Post2763376

    </div></div>


    This! I bought my steel from BDS. Great stuff. Don't know why you are worrying about an extra $20-$30. Good steel will last you years.

    Bob
     
    #23
    Re: Using steel with no holes

    Welding anything to a 4" round is useless. The weld will hold up for maybe 12 hits.

    Bobcat Steel sells 4" rounds with a hole for $9 each I think. Get some old conveyor belt (like a 2"x16" strip) attach it with a grade 8 bolt. Welding will probably be ok for the bigger/heavier plates, but this is the only way to go for little rounds.
     
    #25
    Re: Using steel with no holes

    JB Weld (mixed glue's) and a couple cheap carabiner's from Home Depot would probably solve the problem. just JB weld the carabiner to the back of the plate, and use a chain or rope to hang it?
     
    #26
    Re: Using steel with no holes

    I got some from bobcat steel as well and they are great. I thought about welding something on the backside but bolts are cheap and I got a firehose from a buddy to hang it on my stand. The hose will last a long time and the bolts are cheap and easy to change in the field. Sometimes it is worth spending the money vs cheating and this is one where I cheated the first time and learned with the 2nd time to buy the right stuff.
     
    #27
    Re: Using steel with no holes

    Kyle I picked up a bunch of targets from bigdogsteel had them in a couple of days. If you are still wanting to get some local bring them to my place and I can weld something on them for you so you can hang them
     
    #28
    Re: Using steel with no holes

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: npetric</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Kyle I picked up a bunch of targets from bigdogsteel had them in a couple of days. If you are still wanting to get some local bring them to my place and I can weld something on them for you so you can hang them
    </div></div>
    Thanks for the offer! I'll keep you posted, I might get some with holes. Haven't decided yet, and hasn't been a top priority.

    Thanks again
     
    #29
    Re: Using steel with no holes

    I just used my drill press and a regular drill bit. I clamped it down put some oil down on the drill spot and cut a very small amount then let up. I did this over and over adding oil as I went. The bit was never in contact for more than a second before pulling it away. I did the same thing with a friend on leaf springs from a dump truck with a hand drill. Oil is the key and so is patients. Just do not give it hell and drip oil in. You will burn bits like there is no tomarow.

    Edit

    Most of my steel has rebar holders that allow the steel to vibrate. These holders form fingers that do not allow the plate to fall and that will grasp a rebar A-frame.

    end edit
     
    #32
    Re: Using steel with no holes

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BapZander</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just noticed this thread... I have a shop up in North PHX, I can weld something on or cut some holes or whatever as well if npetric is busy - feel free to PM or whatever if I can help. </div></div>
    I sent ya a PM, hopefully you are near by! Just picked up a 12" square, three 6" squares and two 4 inch mild steel circles to try with the 22.
     
    #33
    Re: Using steel with no holes

    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Killer Spade 13</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Generally speaking, a machine, be it plasma or laser, can't cut holes with a diameter smaller than the thickness of the material.

    Now, keep in mind I said "generally". </div></div>

    The limiting factor is not the thickness of the material, it's the thickness of the beam being cut with.

    I've seen some pretty intricate cats made on 1/2 AR500....
     
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