Re: Wanting to Reload...Need basic Equipment...?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: eboggs</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I see a lot of single-stage presses for under $100. Is there something wrong with this?
Obviously not as good of quality...but, wouldn't they work? </div></div>
Actually, the Redding <span style="font-style: italic">Boss</span> is in that price range, and it is a top quality press. Also, it's the right size for what you're loading. If you use it with a good beam scale (RCBS 502, Redding or Dillon) and with good quality dies (Forster and Redding), you can make ammo as good as anybody's. You'll need a few accessories, and I'll suggest that you look at Sinclair's catalog. You don't need everything or the most expensive, but a few of the right pieces will make life much easier.
I'll make a few recommendations for you to complement what's been suggested:
Lee powder dippers and a trickler - Redding makes the best one. The few dollars extra is money well spent. Makes for a basic and economical powder dispensing facility. Nothing is more accurate.
VLD inside chamfer tool; a long inside chamfer aids initial bullet alignment when seating. Lyman and RCBS both have inexpensive ones. You'll also need a tool for the outside burr.
Caliber-specific loading blocks. Sinclair's are very nice, but Frankford Arsenal (MidWay) has less expensive ones; they're also available from MidSouth. The Satern funnel (Sinclair), also caliber-specific, is more expensive, but makes life a lot easier.
It sounds like you're not ready to afford bushing and micrometer dies, but a Forster standard set gives you the same seater design as the micrometer units, and the FL sizer has design advantages with the location of its sizing button. Many prefer, especially with factory barrels, to use a Lee collet die (neck sizes only) in conjunction with a Redding body die for the sizing operation instead of a FL die. The dies are the key to building straight ammo.
You can use the press's priming device, at least until you obtain the priming tool of your preference.
Sinclair has a little gauge for measuring your rifle's chamber length; it's only a few dollars. It will tell you if you need to be concerned immediately with case trimming. The Lee trimmer is inexpensive, but doesn't allow adjustment. The Wilson trimmer is not expensive in its basic form, and it's the nicest manual trimmer available. It can be bolted to a block of wood and clamped to the bench when needed or placed in a vise if you prefer. Possum Hollow's trimmer is inexpensive and adjustable. It's worthy of your interest.
A small screw driver or the Lee primer pocket cleaner serve for that purpose. If you find a burr on the flash hole, it can be reduced with a hand-held twist drill bit.
A pair of end cutters from Harbor Freight ($5) can be used to pull bullets, using the press as an extractor. Pad the bullet to prevent damage.
You will need a dial caliper. The less expensive ones are made in China, and they will serve your purpose.
Imperial sizing wax. It does the best job, and it's convenient to use.
You'll also need a way to clean your brass. A wide-mouthed jug (kitty litter, etc.) and electric dishwasher liquid with hot water will get them clean. Shake vigorously, soak, and shake again. A large collander (WalMart) will help rinse. Putting them in a mesh bag and then into a load of clothes (washing machine) or in an electric dishwasher will do it with less effort, although some object to the practice. The <span style="font-style: italic">plate warmer</span> option leaves brass dry.
Hope this is helpful for you.
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