Went to add a new coat of Scotchgard on my boots for the upcoming season AND the can is nearly empty bad on me for not replacing last year. Was about to buy another can and saw Kiwi has a product I was unaware of....anyone try this stuff thought I may give it a run?
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Throw any boot that needs "waterproofing" in the trash, and by some modern water proof boots. Its crazy thinking back, I remember waterproofing boots when Gortex was still too expensive. The night before the hunt, spend an hour getting every nook and cranny so that the next day your boots will repel water for......... about an hour. 
Hmmm I don't have that issue of next day leaks at all just do my Danners before the season starts. I've spent the entire summer trudging around in the Florida swamps b/f they started to seep water in last week....not throwing them out just yet still feel like bedroom slippers.
Ive always just used mink oil paste on my boots that ive had for 10 years or so. Seems to do the trick stomping through the creeks...just dont get in over the boots...because then you wore the wrong boots.
In b4, you are doing it all wrong.
In b4, you are doing it all wrong.
Hmmmm mink oil paste.....i may just give that a shot
Ya nkow I've toyed with that for years, but my dang danners are so soft any comfy. there are a couple of pairs of those at the hunting camp i've grabbed and they feel like wearing cinder blocks on my feet comparatively....but i may have to just go for those for teh summers
American rubber boots all either feel like clown shoes or they let your foot swim around creating blisters and shit. Muck Boots, Lacrosse, Chippewa, all the ones from the big box stores, they all suck but people buy them because they know no better.
Go get yourself a pair of Hunters, Le Chameaus, Harkrila, or any other European brand of rubber boot. It's like night and day and they're worth every penny.
Definitely what Salty said about the mink oil, it's what I use to "waterproof" everything I make as a hobbyist leather worker. Without knowing what goes into some of the synthetic products out there you could potentially be damaging the boots in the long run. Also, if you really want the best result, mixing melted beeswax in the oil before rubbing it on gives an unbeatable result.
Agreed. Silicone is the worst.
All my leather boots are Red Wings. I just go by their recommendations for each model, since what RW recommends is directly tied to the type of leather (and type of tanning) used for each particular boot
I don't hunt any more but I'm out in the yard and in the field for many reasons in the fall and winter. My neoprene-lined Le Chameaus keep my feet dry and warm down to the low 20s with alpaca wool socks, as well as keeping my trousers dry and clean.
I have soem insulated and non-insulated muck boots. Good for dirty chores, not so good for walking.
If you wear long socks that touch your pants or long johns, your socks are going to wick water down into your boots and get your feet wet. My Danners never get wet, but I don't exactly live in a Flordia swamp. You rarely find standing water here covering a big enough arms you can't just, walk around it. Th dew in the grass, and occasional snow are the big boot soakers.
Never trust a sheep farmer that wears muck boots.
Never trust a sheep farmer that wears muck boots.
I use this and have been very happy. I apply it to all of my hunting boots. 
I may do that. Leather boots treated w/ mink oil I can walk across a creek and not get wet. But a few hrs in dew soaked tall grass and my feet will get wet.
Mucks are my go to for hunting
But I don’t have to walk far. I can say from experience a day in the muck boots will leave you hurting the next day. But for a couple hundred yard walk to the stand, tracking, cleaning etc they’re excellent
If I’m walking a ways I like my danners
But I don’t have to walk far. I can say from experience a day in the muck boots will leave you hurting the next day. But for a couple hundred yard walk to the stand, tracking, cleaning etc they’re excellent
If I’m walking a ways I like my danners
D
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^^^^This.
Wore Danners and Matterhorns through 4 winters in Germany doing it this way.
Muck boots are fine right up until you hook one on a barbwire fence and get a pinhole, then they leak all the time!
thanks guys will give this mink thing a try. it's amazing these old danner pronghorns have been scotchgarded about 10 times are more waterproof than the other danners that are supposedly 'waterproof' with gore tex. oh well eithe rway i'm gonna keep trying some old school remedies these darn things are so soft to ma feets!
actually not gonna do those pronghorns they are stupid dry at this point have not given me cause yet, but will do the seams on the tall snake boots
Clean em up good first with just some warm water. No soap! Let dry really well then oil.
I suppose one could be bothered to find the hole and apply a dab of this, then the boots go back to being completely waterproof.
On it boss thanks will report back b/c shocking....more rain in the forecast for FL!
Slightly different topic, but does anyone have a suggestion for Stopping squeaking Leather boots
The leather lining against the tongue squeak when walking.
The leather lining against the tongue squeak when walking.
When I still had Redwings (as a kid) we sno-sealed them and never did I have wet feet. Not running in snow, walking across streams squirrel hunting, camping, etc. Granted, I now have some Merrell Gore-Tex and if I was still out in the woods all the time I'd have a 10-12" boot instead of a 6" high top. But I'd likely go with Gore-Tex now, if anything mainly due to the weight.
Mink oil definately works but Ive found after long term use it tends to soften the threads. Wax works sell and doesnt do that though it can be a pita. Best solution is buy a pair of GoreTex.
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JB Marine Weld
I tried this stuff, made for jackets, and it really didn't work too well. Kept having plastic-looking stuff come off my jacket. Sounded good as a wash/rinse, but not sure after my experience with clothing. Maybe their boot formula is better...sound like it from your experience.
I prefer the Crispi waterproofing spray which I believe is a silicone based product. I wouldn't use mink oil as it softens and not in a good way, the leather.
Dan,
Once you get them clean, put them into your oven at 170* or so for 20-25 minutes.
Take them out and apply the snow seal, beeswax or whatever else. Rub a couple coats in and put them back for ten minutes.
Pull them out, apply another coat and let cool.
Buff the excess off and you'll be good.
Once you get them clean, put them into your oven at 170* or so for 20-25 minutes.
Take them out and apply the snow seal, beeswax or whatever else. Rub a couple coats in and put them back for ten minutes.
Pull them out, apply another coat and let cool.
Buff the excess off and you'll be good.
Never tried the oven approach, used hairdryer myself. Still do when just doing a normal polish - if I'm motivated.
Baby powder. Stops squeaks on new saddles, should work on boots as well.
rattle can those babys...
titty pink
lol
titty pink
lol
Just putting them in the hot sun is enough.
if its sunny
thanks coach i'm on it. do NOT put dales low sodium on the soles, correct?
@MtnCreek - look at xtratuff boots too.
wore those a lot in AK (state footwear I think).
worked well for walking. Even for 3 miles on moderate terrain to get to a good fishin hole.
Thats toting a pack for fish (8 lb salmon add up!) and a 12g along with fishin gear.
Would have to stop fishing at times due to bears coming in for a snack.....
Knew a guy they just took his stringer with 5 nice sockeye on it!
wore those a lot in AK (state footwear I think).
worked well for walking. Even for 3 miles on moderate terrain to get to a good fishin hole.
Thats toting a pack for fish (8 lb salmon add up!) and a 12g along with fishin gear.
Would have to stop fishing at times due to bears coming in for a snack.....
Knew a guy they just took his stringer with 5 nice sockeye on it!
Snow seal.
Clean boots very well.
Let them get to just moist.
Apply Snow Seal thick.
Hair dryer until they look wet.
Good to go.
This is the technique I've used on my Lowas.
Shed water like a duck for over 100 miles on the mountain.
R
Clean boots very well.
Let them get to just moist.
Apply Snow Seal thick.
Hair dryer until they look wet.
Good to go.
This is the technique I've used on my Lowas.
Shed water like a duck for over 100 miles on the mountain.
R
Has worked very well for me on boots and gloves. IIRC it was the same stuff included with my Hestra Gloves.
Sno Seal is the answer. I've worn Hoffmans for thirty or so years. They are a pac with felt liners, air bob soles and quality leather uppers. Use a tooth brush to rub into stitching. I've also used it on the old Redwing work boots that had no lining of any kind and double stitched vibram lug soles.
The formulation is simple. It's beeswax. It will not rot your leather or your stitching and will be completely waterproof unless you go in over the tops.
Rthur's appplication technique is the same as mine. I use only water and a medium soft brush to clean. I keep the hairdrier on low.
Good hunting and dry feet to everyone this year.
