what ar10 style would be best for 600 yard f class tactical matches

mese341

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Minuteman
Dec 8, 2013
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Duluth,Mn
okay guys and girls i am looking for a ar10 style rifle and optic that would be competitive at 600 yards i know its going to be very spendy like the lwrc repr or along that price range with out optic and i am not worried about that i just need a good solid choice and it has to be in 308 with a 20 inch barrel other than that i am leaving it open i need more ideas on rifles and optics.

thanks
 
For 600 yards ... I would say go with a LMT MWS 20 SS barrel and stick a NF F1 3.5-15 on it at 600 yards it makes a very nice set up. I have this set up now and really like it but you will prob want to swap the stock and trigger out . I went with a UBR and am going with a SSA-E trigger
 
A bolt gun would be a better choice. Are you serious about wanting to shoot F T/R? Do you want to actually be competitive or just shoot the matches for fun to get some MR/LR practice? Usually clubs are pretty open to letting you shoot whatever you want (as long as you're not using a muzzle brake), but they may not honor your score, and the NRA definitely won't if you're not following the rules. That means a .308 SAAMI chamber, no muzzle device, and SINGLE LOADING, meaning your rifle will be single shot, and probably take longer to operate, although unless your puller is lightening fast it won't really make a difference. You can see why for F T/R there is no reason to use an AR. Most that do shoot F T/R have 28-30" barrels specifically to get every last bit of velocity possible, and while I'm not positive, but I don't think you can get the most out of the heavy .30 cal bullets in an S/A, as overgassing starts early. The inherent accuracy of bolt vs. semi is not as important here, as there are plenty of 5R's placing in F T/R (around me at least), but the more precise, the better. I don't have the most experience with S/A's, but as you can see you are very quickly either going to be handicapped by a S/A, or you are going to build a very cumbersome rifle to arguably only get close to bolt action performance. Sure you CAN make hit's with a 18" AR at 1K, hell Haley did it with a 12.5" bbl, but there's a damn good reason why you don't see anyone shooting one in a sanctioned NRA match. Post this in the F T/R section and see what comes back.

For glass most use 8-32x or 12-42x Nightforce NXS, partially for the high magnification to see exactly where the last round went, partially for the 1/8 MOA adjustments (you want MOA, b/c that's what your target stadia are scaled to). Those two scopes dominate the F T/R realm.

And if you're still going to shoot an AR in F T/R, get a GAP-10, period, nothing is going to shoot better.

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...19312-308-ar-f-class-long-range-shooting.html

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/f-class-f-t-r-competition/87401-ar15-f-t-r.html
 
I just want to get proficient at that far and I am 21 years old and only 5 foot 2 inches and a full size stock is to big and a youth is to small so that's y I like ar15 and ar10 styles and I don't like to shoot things everyone else does
 
Gotcha, I know where you're coming from, I'm 22 and not the tallest myself. Do you handload? If you just want to start out to 600 I would just go for an AR-15 with either a .223 Wylde, 6.5 Grendel, or 6 Hagar chamber (or some hi-pro wildcat if you handload). Large frame AR's are notoriously less forgiving than the 15's as semi's aren't the easiest to learn on. Have you tried measuring your length of pull? I had the same issue with my first rifle, a 700P, so I got a Mcree chassis, and the LOP is adjustable down to something around 10.5-11" which is comparable to an AR-15 with the stock collapsed to the 2nd or 3rd position, I'd have to double check. I would strongly recommend a bolt gun to start, as I'm getting into ARs now, and while I can shoot my bolts without issue, my semis are always right there to take advantage of any mistake on my part. The best rifle I own is my .22LR 40XB, and the one I have the most fun with because every time I start screwing something up I go back to that rifle, square it away within a few rounds and then I'm back to shooting my other rifles.

I'm not trying to discourage you from what you asked for, but the patterns have been made, and if you want to learn to shoot LR, it will be easier to start with mastering, and VERIFYING, the fundamentals on an accurate 22, moving up to a bolt gun to begin to learn wind and get DOPE, then move on to gas guns. Each time you're going to be adjusting to what's new with each system, and each will present new issues. Reducing the amount of variables will make learning easier as you won't have to figure out what your problem. Seldom are issues straight-forward or simple, most are compounded and indeterminate without someone more skilled there to show you what your exact problem is. I spent many hours trying to pin down issues with my .308 bolt gun and watched the online training over and over only to realize when I got my 22 was that I wasn't relaxed and had remaining muscle tension that was affecting my accuracy. Way easier to learn when you know what you're doing right.

Still, if you're going to get a .308 AR, go GAP.
 
My dad is pretty happy with his Les Baer .308. The sub 1/2 MOA guarantee is hard to beat. The factory targets that came with the gun were 2, 5-shot groups measuring closer to 1/4". Not bad. The built in muzzle brake is also awesome if you want one. Kicks WAY less than my AR-10...

Oh, and his NF 8-32x is pretty sweet when the distances get long...
 
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Armalite AR-10(T) Black Target Rifle w/20" Stainless Barrel

ARM10TBNFMedium.jpg


Plus @ $1650 for NF 5.5-22x50 HS/non-ZS with mount of your choice {i'm an evil Larue fan}

So, for about the same cost as the "other" rifles, you can have a rifle & glass and have no regrets.
Not even toward those that say you should have got one of the other rifles. Just out-choot'em.

Since 1999, I've never met an ARMALITE AR-10T {20"-24"} or A4 {20"} that couldn't shoot sub-0.5" @ 100yds with fodder that it liked.
That has been with knees in the dirt and a Dodge 1500 tailgate as the bench with <$500 scopes.
 
A bolt gun would be a better choice. Are you serious about wanting to shoot F T/R? Do you want to actually be competitive or just shoot the matches for fun to get some MR/LR practice? Usually clubs are pretty open to letting you shoot whatever you want (as long as you're not using a muzzle brake), but they may not honor your score, and the NRA definitely won't if you're not following the rules.

Agree, you don't need a semi auto since you have plenty of time to shoot your 20 shots, and to get a 1/2 to 3/4 moa gas gun it ain't gonna be a factory barrel and trigger. And if you can't drive a gas gun better than me stick to a bolt gun! LOL! I have seen guys shoot F class with a match barrel .223 AR and shoot way better than me with a bolt gun, but they were serious I wasn't. You might consider a .223 with heavy bullets if you are only shooting 600 yards. But if you live in a windy part of the country it might be tougher than a .308.
 
I just want to get proficient at that far and I am 21 years old and only 5 foot 2 inches and a full size stock is to big and a youth is to small so that's y I like ar15 and ar10 styles and I don't like to shoot things everyone else does

I didn't like the 14.75 inch length of pull on my LRS-308, so I swapped out the factory stock for an older M16-A1 stock that had a shorter length of pull. I mounted a .25 inch pad covered with leather on the back end, and now have a perfect 13.5 inch length of pull, just the way I like it. The longer receiver makes for the longer length of pull.