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What are some good optional reloading pieces?

goodgorilla

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 16, 2013
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Lecanto, FL
Sorry this is such a broad subject, but I am genuinely curious to see some responses. Only reloading gadgets I have beyond a supreme RCBS starter kit, is a Hornady Lock and load overall length and comparator. I still need to get a digital caliper, and possibly a digital scale. I was thinking about getting a tumbler but am unsure which brand to get.
 
A tumbler for sure. The 'popular' choice right now seems to be wet tumbling with stainless media (can get pricey), I do just fine dry tumbling with walnut and/or corncob (much cheaper).

Decent calipers is another you really should have. Doesn't have to be digital, but those are nice (especially for older eyes).
A bullet puller WILL come in handy eventually.
A case trimmer will be necessary for most rifle brass, if you load them more than once or twice. They grow quite a bit with repeated firings.

I'm sure I'll come up with more, if others don't beat me to it:)
 
Primer pocket uniformer. Flash hole deburrer. Sinclair hand primer. Bump gauges. Good calipers. Feeler gauges.
 
The RCSB Chargemaster is a nice piece to have and will make life so much easier. You'll think it was necessary.
 
Depends on what you are reloading, but I use a modified Dillon Super Swage 600 for military brass.

Overall length gage, I like analog (dial) calipers, good lighting and a quiet place.

I haven't gotten to an automated bullet feeder yet, but that would be on the cool list.
 
I get calipers from Harbor Freight.

I finally got a couple of micrometers, a regular and a ball type (measure case mouth thickness).

Dillon Super Swage if you get once fired mil brass.

For tumbler, I have a Lyman vibratory that has processed 10s of thousands of cases. A media separator is a must have to go along. I have a small Dillon. I used corn cob media. Lyman media for .223 empty brass, KayKob from Pet Smart for larger brass or loaded rounds. The KayKob gets seriously STUCK in .223 cases.

I have an old round tray Lee Auto Prime that works great. Until the handle broke, and I got a 21st Century handle, which is SUPERB.

I also got a 21 st Century Powder funnel, which is very nice.
 
If you are loading rifle in batches, I like the Satern caliber specific powder funnels. Loading blocks, I use MTM universals, but there are better ones for specific calibers. If you are loading military brass, a primer pocket swager is handy. I use a Lyman power trimmer. Neck turning tool. Primer pocket uniformer from Sinclair with the drill adapter. All of the vibrators work OK, get a separator too. I make my own load labels for ammo boxes with Avery labels. Keep lots of notes and start a log book of all of your loads.
 
After doing some reading I really want a chargemaster, and a thumbler's tumbler. I also need to make a list of the regular tools before they slip my mind. Like these "Primer pocket uniformer. Flash hole deburrer. Sinclair hand primer. Bump gauges. Good calipers. Feeler gauges". If anyone was curious, when I start reloading I will be only doing 7mm rem mag and I also have the cartridge holder.

A few other pieces I forgot to mention are the Steel media for the Thumbler Tumbler and the Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ Rotary Media Separator. I don't think the tumbler comes with the steel media.
 
Get a K&M chamfering tool and a Sinclair runout gauge and be sure to use plenty of Imperial sizing lube. Use Norma brass and don't worry about uniforming primer pockets and flash holes as the Norma is consistent and the holes are drilled and not punched. Time and trouble on pockets and holes will net you nothing other than lost time - I promise you'll thank me later!
 
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The RCSB Chargemaster is a nice piece to have and will make life so much easier.

I second that

The most important thing I see missing are Wilson case gauges for every cartridge you plan to reload. Great for go/no go checks of your brass, especially if you are buying once fired from anywhere. They will tell you what needs to be done to the case to make it right. (Well at least fit in the chamber correctly)
 
I picked up a Lyman case prep center. Having a single tool that removes the primer crimp, uniforms primer pocket and flash hole (2 steps). Having it all motorized has been super nice. Having a second scale to check the cheap Hornady one that came in my kit was also helpful.
 
I have owned and used an enormous variety of supplemental items over several decades. They nearly all did something good, but very few have stood the test of time in that their cost and additional demands on my attention have usually failed to add any real overall improvement to my complete, all-inclusive handloading/shooting process. The two go together as one, what demands get made on one affect the overall whole.

First, my Dillon RL-550B press is indispensable, with additional powder measures, toolheads, and a second primer feed setup. A good drop tube, an RCBS collet bullet puller setup, and a Dillon strong mount and bullet tray round out the rest of the indispensables. ** Edited to add my Dillon Super Swage, as well as an inside case neck chamfer tool for when I'm reloading boxer primed steel cartridge cases. I do believe that concentricity has great value in a custom tight necked chamber, but none of mine are so configured.**. I now use RCBS Water Soluble case lube, and I haven't had a stuck case in the decade and a half since I started using it. I still use the original Lee mechanical dial caliper that came with the (used) Dillon back in the mid-90's and the RCBS digital scale I acquired around the millennium may be a tad slow, but even so, I weigh every charge that counts (and that's every one of them).

Weighing every charge may seem like a chore, but once I dropped playing with all the other optional bells and whistles, the entire process became a lot more efficient, and if there's an accuracy downside, it's certainly small enough to embrace with a smile. Weighed charges are worth the extra effort, no matter what it is. This is where the progressive press earns its kudos. I don't keep track of rounds per hour production rates or overall times for anything else associated with handloading. It takes as long as it takes, and that's good enough for me.

I have no secret-squirrel handloading secrets. KISS is a very good mantra for me. I once thought I had a mindblowingly simple process for managing neck tension, but as of now, that's off the menu. Just make the ammo simply and with truly diligent attention to each step, and you come out ahead in the long run (unless, of course, you get hung up on 'that perfection thing'). Nobody makes perfect ammo, and those of us who don't try attaining the impossible get to make and shoot a lot more of it.

Good ammo is ammo that hits the target, period. If you can't, stop blaming the ammo and consider questioning your judgment regarding distances and hit probabilities. Every marksmanship system has its own unique capabilities, and that includes the capability of missing when we ask too much of it.

Even cheaper factory ammo is great ammo when we use it within its reasonable capabilities. The failures don't reside with the ammo, they reside with the unrealistic expectations. Nobody would call Russian Spamcan X54R surplus stuff precision ammo, but it still did a pretty good job of driving the Germans all the way back to Berlin back in 1945.

Greg
 
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I'm spent on buying for awhile. I picked up the thumbler tumbler, chargemaster, rcbs universal trim station, tumbler media, and media extractor.

Get a K&M chamfering tool and a Sinclair runout gauge and be sure to use plenty of Imperial sizing lube. Use Norma brass and don't worry about uniforming primer pockets and flash holes as the Norma is consistent and the holes are drilled and not punched. Time and trouble on pockets and holes will net you nothing other than lost time - I promise you'll thank me later!

I'm going to be starting with Norma, I've only heard one guy complain about these shells for being tough to prime, but Lapua doesn't make a 7mm case which was my second choice.
 
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My favorite optional tool has been my 21st Century priming tool. For a long time, I was using the priming arm on my Rockchucker and it had become my least favorite step of the loading process as it was a pain to use. After I got the 21st Century tool, I actually enjoy sitting down to prime cases. No more standing at the press, feeding primers into the priming cup...now I can sit in my easy chair and effortlessly prime my brass. Just my personal preference, but I'd say the extra money for this optional piece of equipment is a decision you won't regret.
 
I picked up a Lyman case prep center. Having a single tool that removes the primer crimp, uniforms primer pocket and flash hole (2 steps). Having it all motorized has been super nice. Having a second scale to check the cheap Hornady one that came in my kit was also helpful.

I second the Lyman case prep center, has saved me a tremendous amount of time and greatly improved my brass prep
 
Harrels precision culver style powder measure, it's expensive but throws ultra low es powder charges especially with ball powder or finer cut powders like r17
 
After doing some reading I really want a chargemaster, and a thumbler's tumbler. I also need to make a list of the regular tools before they slip my mind. Like these "Primer pocket uniformer. Flash hole deburrer. Sinclair hand primer. Bump gauges. Good calipers. Feeler gauges". If anyone was curious, when I start reloading I will be only doing 7mm rem mag and I also have the cartridge holder.

If I was looking to buy a first tumbler then I would go this route instead Stainless Tumbling Media | Stainless Tumbling Media Package. This is the new tumbler that they are selling and looks much superior to the Thumbler's Tumbler. I currently have the Thumbler's and while good, does have parts that wear out and need replacement, like the bearings for example. Additionally, the first upgrade that I did on mine was replacing the wing nuts with the same type of nut the Extreme Tumbler. Their new Extreme Tumblers Rebel 17 has a bigger capacity and is much more durable looking, will probably last a lifetime. Now if only they would make one with a four hour timer. Just Sayin'...

If you are going to be processing a lot of military brass also get the Dillon Super Swage primer pocket swaging tool. You will not regret it.
 
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If I was looking to buy a first tumbler then I would go this route instead Stainless Tumbling Media | Stainless Tumbling Media Package. This is the new tumbler that they are selling and looks much superior to the Thumbler's Tumbler. I currently have the Thumbler's and while good, does have parts that wear out and need replacement, like the bearings for example. Additionally, the first upgrade that I did on mine was replacing the wing nuts with the same type of nut the Extreme Tumbler. Their new Extreme Tumblers Rebel 17 has a bigger capacity and is much more durable looking, will probably last a lifetime. Now if only they would make one with a four hour timer. Just Sayin'...

If you are going to be processing a lot of military brass also get the Dillon Super Swage primer pocket swaging tool. You will not regret it.

I already ordered the Thumbler, but I can send it back for a refund when it gets here. What about the 4 hour timer? The extreme tumbler doesn't have a timer?

rebel 17 thread here on sniper's hide

If the rebel 17 doesn't have a timer, I think I will have to pass on it. I would have to also pay to ship the Thumbler back. About the pocket swaging tool, I'm pretty sure the RCBS brass trimming station I ordered has one of those type of tools included.

Concentricity gauge. Build in some Quality. Personally I don't think it is optional

What makes you say that? I'm a little confused how to put one of those to good use, I would imagine if the something was off enough to cause a big difference, you would notice it before measuring it. But that's just my uninformed opinion.
 
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A set of (eg RCBS Standard Scale) checkweights.

Calibrating your beam scale at 0gr is admittedly closer to being real than most digital scales that calibrate at 20, 50, or 70 grams. With the checkweights you can find out if your scale's calibration is linear, ie. find out what it will say at close to or exactly the weight you want to throw.

PS: Inexpensive 1, 2, 4, 8 hour timers are readily available. Check Amazon, and go from there. Plug the timer into an outlet, the tumbler (or any other device) into the timer, and push a button to set it. They aren't "to-the-second" timers, but close enough for hand grenades. Ooooops - bad analogy :)
 
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I already ordered the Thumbler, but I can send it back for a refund when it gets here. What about the 4 hour timer? The extreme tumbler doesn't have a timer?

rebel 17 thread here on sniper's hide

If the rebel 17 doesn't have a timer, I think I will have to pass on it. I would have to also pay to ship the Thumbler back. About the pocket swaging tool, I'm pretty sure the RCBS brass trimming station I ordered has one of those type of tools included

I have yet to see any tumbler with a four hour timer, just wish someone would incorporate one with a timer. If you already have a Thumler's on the way then don't worry about it. My bad for not getting to you faster. you will still like your tumbler.

I have a RCBS case prep center and the tool that they have for dealing with military crimped primers is a cutter for removing a the crimp on the primer pocket. Get the Dillon super swage, you will not regret it. Using the cutter takes longer, is more difficult and removes material. Other than that the case prep center is great.
 
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What makes you say that? I'm a little confused how to put one of those to good use, I would imagine if the something was off enough to cause a big difference, you would notice it before measuring it. But that's just my uninformed opinion.

That's the point, if the bullet has enough runout to cause a 'flyer' you can't see it by eye.

Most people's processes have no quality control. Runout is one cause of group dispersion. One loading may shoot ok, then the next does not because the process used does not adequately control runout.

By using a concentricity gauge initially on every case at each stage of the loading process you can assess the consistent quality of that step and of the final round. In that way you can work out which bits to focus on and improve. After a bit of work you have a robust, well understood process that you know will deliver consistent results. At that point you can just do random or batch measurements just to confirm that the results are being maintained.

Seemingly innocuous things can cause major problems.

Industry has adopted QA and QC to ensure a quality product but most hand loaders just seem happy to stuff the rounds and then moan about the 'unexplained' fliers. I had a 270 that I could not get rid of the odd flier. When I grouped reloaded rounds by runout, oh look the 'fliers' went away on low run outs and there were nothing but 'fliers' on large run outs.
 
+1 on the Sinclair catalog idea. Lots of good ideas and nice gear to choose from.

Goodgorilla, you spent a nice chunk of change, but you will be happy with your purchases.

YetiSlayer, my Bigdawg tumbler came with the optional timer, built in to the "pecker head" on the motor. Lowes or Home Depot should have a good selection of plug-in timers to choose from.

I agree that a concentricity gauge is a very worth while tool. It explained a lot of the unexplained fliers that I was manfully taking credit for. I like the one Sinclair sells.