Does the crown make a difference on a barrel if I plan to get it threaded? Getting ready to order a prefit, am wondering which crown to choose, plan to get it threaded for a brake later.
Gunsmithing What barrel crown to get threaded for brake.
- Thread starter ArmyJerry
- Start date
As long as the crown is well-cut, clean, uniform, free from burrs, etc., then the specific type/style of crown is fairly inconsequential by in large.
What specific options are you looking at/concerned about?
What specific options are you looking at/concerned about?
All the different "shapes" of crowns are there to protect the edge of the rifling and gooves. Most target shooters will just use a 90 degree and be real protective of their muzzle. In field or tactical applications, a recess is desired. Some just use an 11 degree cut which recesses the critical edges and others prefer a stepped design, same purpose and performance, just a larger "collar" around the outside of the barrel end.
If you are going to have the barrel threaded I'd just have it cut to a 90 degree angle. If you have a thread protector made for shooting with the brake (or perhaps a supressor at a later date), then just have a thread protector made a little longer and have the ID beveled so it effectively makes the crown stepped.
One thing nice about a 90 degree crown is that in an "EMERGENCY", it can be repaired somewhat satisfactorily with a flat Mill File. As I said, emergency.
My rifles all have 11 degree crowns and I keep an 11 degree crown cutting reamer with pilot in my kit. Get a nick in the crown, accident or stupidity, and I can touch it up without loosing any shooting time.
If you are going to have the barrel threaded I'd just have it cut to a 90 degree angle. If you have a thread protector made for shooting with the brake (or perhaps a supressor at a later date), then just have a thread protector made a little longer and have the ID beveled so it effectively makes the crown stepped.
One thing nice about a 90 degree crown is that in an "EMERGENCY", it can be repaired somewhat satisfactorily with a flat Mill File. As I said, emergency.
My rifles all have 11 degree crowns and I keep an 11 degree crown cutting reamer with pilot in my kit. Get a nick in the crown, accident or stupidity, and I can touch it up without loosing any shooting time.
If there's a cheaper option, then that's what I'd opt for because when you send it out to be properly threaded for your brake/suppressor, it'll most likely need to be redone anyway.
BUT...if you are ordering it new...why not just have McGowen set it up in the proper thread patter you want/need and ensure that it is threaded concentric to the bore from the get-go?
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