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Suppressors What do you love/hate about your suppressor cover?

Precision Underground

Rifle Gear
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Minuteman
  • I tried 100 different shooting bags and hated all of them. I decided to make one and after trial and error I love it and have sold a few. Hoping they are well liked so I can maybe take another step and set up a company and start really selling them. So thinking about other things I could make and figured I could do some suppressor covers. I didn't stick to the norm with the shooting bag and don't want to stick to the norm with a cover either. If I am going to do it I want to make it different and give people a reason to choose mine rather than another.

    So what do you like or hate about yours? I want mine to check all of the boxes you have checked now but also address any problems/annoyances you deal with. Do you like how it is held on? What could be better about how it is held on? Does yours handle the heat well or do you wish it was more insulated? Would you like it to come with a pouch to put it in for an extra cost? Etc... If I can identify some problem areas and come up with a solution I would prob send a few to people for free to see how they work and get some feedback. Let me know your likes and gripes. Thanks in advance.
     
    I hate how my suppressor cover "spins" and then gets into my line of sight. It doesn't seem to walk forward on me. I have a silencerco cover with velcro to tighten it and that damn thing always seem to spin around until the velcro straps are at the top which happens to be the thickest portion of the cover. It overlaps and then has the velcro straps on top and I always see it in the bottom portion in my scope after its spun around. Not a show stopper and doesn't interfere with much of the reticle or my ability to hit targets, but annoys the crap out of me while shooting. If you make a suppressor cover don't overlap it but butt joint it together to keep a lower profile. Lace, velcro straps, bra clasps I could care less how it attaches to itself as long as it holds. Its just the overly thick portion from the overlap and straps that always seems to get into my line of sight. The spinning is going to happen no matter what with the cover I have. I may try one of those silicone stretchy ones next as they grip and don't move, but I don't know how effective they are at blocking mirage.
     
    I hate how my suppressor cover "spins" and then gets into my line of sight. It doesn't seem to walk forward on me. I have a silencerco cover with velcro to tighten it and that damn thing always seem to spin around until the velcro straps are at the top which happens to be the thickest portion of the cover. It overlaps and then has the velcro straps on top and I always see it in the bottom portion in my scope after its spun around. Not a show stopper and doesn't interfere with much of the reticle or my ability to hit targets, but annoys the crap out of me while shooting. If you make a suppressor cover don't overlap it but butt joint it together to keep a lower profile. Lace, velcro straps, bra clasps I could care less how it attaches to itself as long as it holds. Its just the overly thick portion from the overlap and straps that always seems to get into my line of sight. The spinning is going to happen no matter what with the cover I have. I may try one of those silicone stretchy ones next as they grip and don't move, but I don't know how effective they are at blocking mirage.
    Good info and something I have been thinking about. From a manufacturing perspective the overlap makes things a lot easier. If it overlaps you don't have to make 100 different sizes that fit perfectly. You can make a couple of sizes that overlap and that would allow it to fit a lot of models by making a "window" of fit depending on how far it overlapped. I was leaning toward not overlapping just because it will look better. If not I will def make it a low profile overlap and make sure it does not slip/spin.
     
    The failing on suppressor covers is insulation. Ive never used one that was worth a dam. To get it to truly stay cool it would have to be huge. Otherwise it’s mostly to look kewl. I’ve looked for real asbestos fabric, and I guess they don’t sell it in the US, or at least ship it here, but if you could make one with real asbestos fabric around the can it would be so vastly superior to anything offered I bet I could sell twenty for you myself. It would be the same size as the ones for sale today, but it would actually work.
     
    I have a few covers and here are just some thoughts..
    -Thickness: Too thin and mirage is visible after a decent string. Too thick and it gets heavy and bulky.
    -Retention method: Paracord is a PITA to tie quickly. Elastic cords can fail. I've had one pop.
    -Staying put: I prefer to have the can wrap over the barrel or a lip of the can to keep it from sliding forward under recoil.
    -Price: I guess that depends on the buyer and what they want to spend.
    -Longevity/robustness: I've had covers start fraying from taking them off and on.
     
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    The failing on suppressor covers is insulation. Ive never used one that was worth a dam. To get it to truly stay cool it would have to be huge. Otherwise it’s mostly to look kewl. I’ve looked for real asbestos fabric, and I guess they don’t sell it in the US, or at least ship it here, but if you could make one with real asbestos fabric around the can it would be so vastly superior to anything offered I bet I could sell twenty for you myself. It would be the same size as the ones for sale today, but it would actually work.
    I've got some Ideas to try. I think I could keep the cover itself cool enough not to mirage but the problem is, that heat has to go somewhere. Depending on how hot the suppressor gets i imagine the heat will eventually start boiling from the uncovered end of the suppressor. How much that affects your view is probably dependent on the air movement at the muzzle. Thanks for the reply!
     
    I have a few covers and here are just some thoughts..
    -Thickness: Too thin and mirage is visible after a decent string. Too thick and it gets heavy and bulky.
    -Retention method: Paracord is a PITA to tie quickly. Elastic cords can fail. I've had one pop.
    -Staying put: I prefer to have the can wrap over the barrel or a lip of the can to keep it from sliding forward under recoil.
    -Price: I guess that depends on the buyer and what they want to spend.
    -Longevity/robustness: I've had covers start fraying from taking them off and on.
    All good points that I have been pondering. I was def thinking a small "lip" with a quick adjust tensioner that can grab the threaded end and keep recoil from moving the cover forward. In my thinking, the less you have to wrap it tight to avoid movement, the less heat will be transferred to the cover. So I am plotting on a secure yet not cinched super-tight all over method of attachment. Price-wise I am hoping to offer a better performing product at about the same price as others.
     
    Definitely focus on the way in which you fasten the cover to the can. Paracord sucks because you can’t tie a knot tight enough to get it to stay put. I prefer elastic for this reason. It can “pop” as stated above but I’ve had much better luck with this type of fastening system.

    Otherwise, recoil is definitely an issue as I’ve had SilencerCo (Cole-Tac), Armageddon Hi-Temp, and Rifles Only covers. While there were things that I liked about each of them, every one of them moved at some point when I did not intend for them too.

    I settled on the standard Armageddon “Mirage cover” because I’m able to cinch it around the back of the can and it holds tight with the elastic cord. It also offers the cleanest look I think (though I also like the Cole-Tacs if going off of looks only).

    One thing to understand is that there really isn’t a “do-it-all” cover and I don’t think there will be. You’re either giving up something in terms of how much heat they can handle, size, ease of use, durability, etc. I would first identify which type of shooter you’re going after and make a cover specifically for them rather than trying to make one that covers all of your bases at once.
     
    My "best" cover is one from Burn Proof Gear. Yes I've melted one on my SBR but the concept is nice. It's easy to tighten down but the downfall is that the elastic cord can melt. It's fine for slow fire though.
     
    I've always been curious about a silver radiant/heat rejecting barrier wrap like the stuff they use for homes. But yes, the heat has to go somewhere.
    Something like this.. (no affiliation) https://www.ecofoil.com/Double-Bubb...KH8qE0QdNKuazT8PsjncU--gjiLgSHskaAkK8EALw_wcB
    Yea I have been researching insulation options quite a bit and have come up with a few that I want to mess around with. Not sure the silver foil type would be durable enough. Though I am looking at some things that are very similar.
     
    Here's how a Burn Proof Gear can wrap cinches down.. I'm doing this one handed so it was hard. The wrap wasn't measured for my Ultra 7. It's just for demo purposes. If I had two hands to use the elastic can be made tighter.
     
    Definitely focus on the way in which you fasten the cover to the can. Paracord sucks because you can’t tie a knot tight enough to get it to stay put. I prefer elastic for this reason. It can “pop” as stated above but I’ve had much better luck with this type of fastening system.

    Otherwise, recoil is definitely an issue as I’ve had SilencerCo (Cole-Tac), Armageddon Hi-Temp, and Rifles Only covers. While there were things that I liked about each of them, every one of them moved at some point when I did not intend for them too.

    I settled on the standard Armageddon “Mirage cover” because I’m able to cinch it around the back of the can and it holds tight with the elastic cord. It also offers the cleanest look I think (though I also like the Cole-Tacs if going off of looks only).

    One thing to understand is that there really isn’t a “do-it-all” cover and I don’t think there will be. You’re either giving up something in terms of how much heat they can handle, size, ease of use, durability, etc. I would first identify which type of shooter you’re going after and make a cover specifically for them rather than trying to make one that covers all of your bases at once.
    At this point I would likely be targeting the PR community. So not looking to insulate mag dumps or anything.
     
    I’ve got some non-asbestos socks on my ignition wires in my 427. It puts off a fukton of heat and the wires don’t melt. They sell them at any auto parts store, along with high temp wrap (which I have around my headers). It’s still 1/10th the insulation of real asbestos.
     
    How about removing the can? I read on another forum people talking about it being a pain to remove with the cover which I can see as it would want to slip. Do you normally take the cover off to take the can off? Would it be great if you could if you don't?
    I’ve got some non-asbestos socks on my ignition wires in my 427. It puts off a fukton of heat and the wires don’t melt. They sell them at any auto parts store, along with high temp wrap (which I have around my headers). It’s still 1/10th the insulation of real asbestos.
    Yea I'm def looking to tinker with the header wrap material or something of the sort. The socks are likely fiberglass. That is on the radar as well.
     
    Here's how a Burn Proof Gear can wrap cinches down.. I'm doing this one handed so it was hard. The wrap wasn't measured for my Ultra 7. It's just for demo purposes. If I had two hands to use the elastic can be made tighter.

    That's pretty slick. The heat + the elastic would worry me. Any issues there?
     
    I’ve got a Rifles Only HAD cover. Thus far it has performed admirably. On a bolt gun it’s been lights out. Cinch down the high temp cord & tie it off around the barrel (follow instructions in RO video) & it doesn’t walk or spin at all. There’s been no issues w/ mirage. As hot as the can & cover can get after a prolonged string of fire the HAD is far from unpleasant to touch afterwards. The only real improvement I’d suggest is making the bite end of the high temp cord a little more solid & longer so it’s easier to push through the loop a little easier.

    I’ve beat it up a little bit on a semi-auto platform. So far it’s held up really well. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve not ran it for hundreds of rounds over a day such as a class or formal training.

    This cover has exceeded my expectations. I’m not sure what the inner core is made of but it works.
     
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    I’ve got a Rifles Only HAD cover. Thus far it has performed admirably. On a bolt gun it’s been lights out. Cinch down the high temp cord & tie it off around the barrel (follow instructions in RO video) & it doesn’t walk or spin at all. There’s been no issues w/ mirage. As hot as the can & cover can get after a prolonged string of fire the HAD is far from unpleasant to touch afterwards. The only real improvement I’d suggest is making the bite end of the high temp cord a little more solid & longer so it’s easier to push through the loop a little easier.

    I’ve beat it up a little bit on a semi-auto platform. So far it’s held up really well. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve not ran it for hundreds of rounds over a day such as a class or formal training.

    This cover has exceeded my expectations. I’m not sure what the inner core is made of but it works.
    Good info thanks.
     
    I have an armageddon cover and hate the whole putting it on and then having to futz with it all. And the asr module tears up the inner cover. I can usually go through 12 shots or so before mirage starts cooking too bad. By that time the whole barrel is hot enough that I figure I should take a break.

    I used it the first and second time out and now for the past 2 years I just shove all my silencer tools in it to keep them contained in the same spot in my range bag. What a waste of 70 bucks to me.
     
    I hate how no matter which suppressor I am running the wrap always goes on uneven when I tighten the paracord around the insulation and the paracord eventually comes unraveled on the bitter end. I am thinking about trying out a Coletac next to see if they are any better.
     
    I hate how no matter which suppressor I am running the wrap always goes on uneven when I tighten the paracord around the insulation and the paracord eventually comes unraveled on the bitter end. I am thinking about trying out a Coletac next to see if they are any better.
    Give me a week or two and I'll have something nice put together! I am waiting on my super high tech NASA insulation to come in.
     
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    I have a silencerco hi temp cover for my Omega 300. I have two "small" complaints about it.
    1- I hate the color, but at the time, the grey sleeve was all they had and the website did not allow for another color option with the high temp
    2- the sleeve pushes itself forward due to the recoil, so you have to make sure the sleeve isn't sticking out way past the suppressor after several rounds of shooting. I have tightened the sleeve down with the straps as much as possible but it still happens. I think this is due to the slick surface on the "insulated sleeve" insert under the cover itself.

    Overall, I think it is a great cover and it does what it is intended to do!
     
    I have a silencerco hi temp cover for my Omega 300. I have two "small" complaints about it.
    1- I hate the color, but at the time, the grey sleeve was all they had and the website did not allow for another color option with the high temp
    2- the sleeve pushes itself forward due to the recoil, so you have to make sure the sleeve isn't sticking out way past the suppressor after several rounds of shooting. I have tightened the sleeve down with the straps as much as possible but it still happens. I think this is due to the slick surface on the "insulated sleeve" insert under the cover itself.

    Overall, I think it is a great cover and it does what it is intended to do!
    Thanks for the info. My goal is to make a semi-high temp(800 degrees or so) for precision rifle that is easy to put on, doesn't slip, and looks good. I think I have the design I'm just waiting on my new insulation to get here so I can prove it. From what I can tell 800 deg F should be more than enough for precision rifle ROF and temps. Really the weak link is the thread which will be kevlar and the way it will be put together my guess is the can would be able to get to 1000 deg before critical temp reached the thread. I don't shoot suppressed but will have some people do some testing on them to see what they can handle.
     
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    Thanks for the info. My goal is to make a semi-high temp(800 degrees or so) for precision rifle that is easy to put on, doesn't slip, and looks good. I think I have the design I'm just waiting on my new insulation to get here so I can prove it. From what I can tell 800 deg F should be more than enough for precision rifle ROF and temps. Really the weak link is the thread which will be kevlar and the way it will be put together my guess is the can would be able to get to 1000 deg before critical temp reached the thread. I don't shoot suppressed but will have some people do some testing on them to see what they can handle.

    Oh yea! I think 800 degrees will be MORE than enough for the ROF of a precision rifle! Let us know ho the testing goes!
     
    I have a silencerco hi temp cover for my Omega 300. I have two "small" complaints about it.
    1- I hate the color, but at the time, the grey sleeve was all they had and the website did not allow for another color option with the high temp
    2- the sleeve pushes itself forward due to the recoil, so you have to make sure the sleeve isn't sticking out way past the suppressor after several rounds of shooting. I have tightened the sleeve down with the straps as much as possible but it still happens. I think this is due to the slick surface on the "insulated sleeve" insert under the cover itself.

    Overall, I think it is a great cover and it does what it is intended to do!

    In order to mitigate your cover’s slipping issues you’ll have to tie it off around the barrel. Rifle’s Only has a YouTube vid that covers this process.

    *It’ so easy even a libtard can do it, LOL.
     
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    In order to mitigate your cover’s slipping issues you’ll have to tie it off around the barrel. Rifle’s Only has a YouTube vid that covers this process.

    *It’ so easy even a libtard can do it, LOL.
    HAHAHA I will give this a shot and see what happens. It isn't too terrible to deal with but higher rates of fire will allow it to become a worse issue.
     
    In order to mitigate your cover’s slipping issues you’ll have to tie it off around the barrel. Rifle’s Only has a YouTube vid that covers this process.

    *It’ so easy even a libtard can do it, LOL.
    There are a couple of ways to mitigate that problem. Do you have a R0 cover? Do you find it to be a pain to wrap the cord around?
     
    There are a couple of ways to mitigate that problem. Do you have a R0 cover? Do you find it to be a pain to wrap the cord around?

    I do have a RO cover. I like it a lot & I’d have no issues w/ buying another. I don’t have any complaints w/ it either. As for innovation, I’d like to see the bite end of the high-temp cord a little stiffer or just easier to thread through the loop. That is all.

    DISCLAIMER:
    As for the RO cover, I’m not a fanboy. It’s the only RO gear I own. Thus far, this particular piece of gear has performed flawlessly. *Competition drives the free market so I wish you well in your endeavors.
     
    I do have a RO cover. I like it a lot & I’d have no issues w/ buying another. I don’t have any complaints w/ it either. As for innovation, I’d like to see the bite end of the high-temp cord a little stiffer or just easier to thread through the loop. That is all.

    DISCLAIMER:
    As for the RO cover, I’m not a fanboy. It’s the only RO gear I own. Thus far, this particular piece of gear has performed flawlessly. *Competition drives the free market so I wish you well in your endeavors.
    Thank you sir! Of all of the ones I have looked at for research that one looks to be the best. And I wondered why they made that loop so tight. I thought it was odd that with as much thought as they put into it he has to use a screwdriver to shove the cord through in the video lol.