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What is your favorite brake for .308?

Bender

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Full Member
Minuteman
  • Feb 12, 2014
    12,752
    44,850
    Cheyenne WY.
    Looking at buying one soon. Barrel is threaded. Looking for recoil control.

    Any Pro-Con to type or brand? No can in my future, till I win the lottery.
     
    I am using a Holland's Gunsmithing Quick Discharge brake on my .308 long range rifle. Had some recoil issues when shooting prone, the rifle would hop from the ground totally loosing the target. Now with the brake, I can control it easily and I can re-acquire my target quickly.
     
    What is your favorite brake for .308?

    You don't need a brake for a .308. If you need recoil control with a .308 it's time to revisit the fundamentals.

    Besides, buying a brake now can limit your choice of can in the future. Ideally, wait until you have the money for a suppressor, then send the barrel with the can (or the specs if it's a Thunderbeast) for threading.

    Or, just get a single point threaded can.
     
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    I disagree. People have different levels of comfort when dealing with recoil. I always thought a brake on a 223 was ridiculous til I bought an ar with a brake on it already. Not like I need it for comfort but the muzzle barely moves even during fast strings. I love it.

    The holland quick discharge brake works great. The muscle brake is another good one. I havent tried too many others but I tend to prefer the brakes with ports rather than holes unless the holes are on top like the one on my ar.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
     
    You don't need a brake for a .308. If you need recoil control with a .308 it's time to revisit the fundamentals.

    QFT. I would also worry that with bad fundamentals the brake is likely going to decrease your accuracy.
     
    APA Little Bastard. It can be turned down to a heavy barrel profile and still mitigate recoil. I have one on my 300 Win Mag and it makes it very mild.
     
    I prefer brakes that can be easily installed and removed for cleaning and especially for suppressed use. If a suppressor is in your future I'd certainly go this route. If your barrel is already threaded and you want to do no additional work the new APA gen II little bastard is probably the way to go. If you don't mind paying for some extra machining I'd also check out the badger FTE.

    You don't need a brake for a .308. If you need recoil control with a .308 it's time to revisit the fundamentals.

    Besides, buying a brake now can limit your choice of can in the future. Ideally, wait until you have the money for a suppressor, then send the barrel with the can (or the specs if it's a Thunderbeast) for threading.

    Or, just get a single point threaded can.

    I'm sorry but this is bad advice. No matter how good your recoil control is a 308 without a brake will still push you off target enough to make a difference when you're not in a perfect prone position. Kneeling, standing, off barricades, rooftop, tripods, etc a brake is a must on a 308 if you want to spot your misses and impacts. Pretty much all of the top shooters at comps run brakes even on 6mm's and 6.5's, I'd say they have there fundamentals pretty down pat.
     
    What is your favorite brake for .308?

    I'm sorry but this is bad advice. No matter how good your recoil control is a 308 without a brake will still push you off target enough to make a difference when you're not in a perfect prone position. Kneeling, standing, off barricades, rooftop, tripods, etc a brake is a must on a 308 if you want to spot your misses and impacts. Pretty much all of the top shooters at comps run brakes even on 6mm's and 6.5's, I'd say they have there fundamentals pretty down pat.
    OP,
    You can take advice about competition from people on the Internet, or you can come take a class or shoot an actual match - with all the obvious implications of each.
     
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    Brakes...

    Bender,

    I agree with Graham. And your neighbors at the range will be annoyed with you. However, if you must have one, I like the Surefire. It not only tames recoil but controls torque, and it looks good. The APA Little Jimmy is great for recoil, but it's big and ugly. This is why it's on a fire breathing 300Win Mag. If you're standing next to me on a hunt and it blows your ears out then let that be a lesson to you. The AAC brake is for a MK13-SD. It's a good, but not great, brake. Do not get one unless you need it for a mount. Which brings me to what another poster said, just get a can. Subsist on peanut butter and Ramen noodles. Forget you have an AC (you live in WY anyways). Drive slower. Drink cheap beer. Date homely girls (maybe one that resembles the Little Jimmy). Cooking is over rated, eat things raw, start a mammalian sushi trend and tell natural gas providers to go pound salt. Go scrub floors at TBAC. Whatever it takes, save up for a can.

    MTT
     

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    I completely agree with Graham about training and fundamentals, however great technique can also be helped with a good brake. I don't care if you're shooting a 223 or 408.

    With that being said, in my experience the JP tank brake is the best by far on the market. My second choice is one of APA's brakes, especially if you want something not as obnoxious looking. However, if performance is your only criterion, nothing beats the JP Tank brake.
     
    If I wanted to option to put a suppressor on:

    Surefire 762SS Brake
    SWR Spec War Brake
    TBAC Micro brake

    If you did not want to use a suppressor

    APA Fat Bastard
    Badger FTE
    Muscle Brake
     
    Shooting 20 rounds or so inside of an hour, I didn't need a brake. Shooting 60+ rounds in an afternoon, i DEFINATELY needed a brake. I did not want to commit to threading my barrel so I opted for a clamp on Kahntrol brake. Lessend my recoil quite a bit. I bench shoot so between the brake and some elbow pads I shoot 100% pain free. Another advantage of a brake is staying on target and the ability to quickly spot your shots. Here's a pic of my Rem .308 :

     
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    OP,
    You can take advice about competition from people on the Internet, or you can come take a class or shoot an actual match - with all the obvious implications of each.

    He's right, don't take advice from people you asked for advice. Don't listen to his either for that matter.

    While the PRS blog should be taken with a grain of salt as far as brands go because of sponsorship and such, the fact that 56% of the shooters at the 2013 finale were running brakes, 22% were running suppressors, and the other 22% were running neither speakers volumes. More than half the field shooting brakes... as many running suppressor as plan muzzle.

    With data like that you don't need to go to a match to see that, a little common sense and reading comprehension is your friend.

    I started match shooting again last year after a two year break and shot my AX308 with no brake in my first match. I still took second but on two stages I was pushed around enough to lose my target with as good of a position as anybody could have gotten from how you had to shoot the stage. I've got no doubt that not having a brake cost me hits and that's on a 18lbs rifle. I had a brake installed and it was night and day off of barricades and odd positions.
     
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    Mike, he might not have meant to say that but he most certainly did say it. Then tried to discredit my advice because I'm an opinion on the internet even though I shoot comps.

    His first paragraph reads:

    "You don't need a brake for a .308. If you need recoil control with a .308 it's time to revisit the fundamentals."

    First sentence he's saying you don't need one. Just reading what he said and he is wrong.
     
    What is your favorite brake for .308?

    OK, I've changed my mind: Get a brake. They are pure magic. They will make all your shooting problems disappear. After all, people who shoot comps use them to get more points.

    BTW, eat apple pie. I saw one win a ribbon in my local fair once: Pure magic. They make all your gastronomic problems disappear. After all, people who eat pie eat apple pie.
     
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    For the OP, I had my AINA barrel threaded 5/8x24 and profiled for a Badger FTE. The smith bored it just .020 over bullet diameter and it works fantastic. Loosen one Allen bolt, spin off, spin can on with no POI shift. Muy bueno.

    Only downside to the FTE is weight. It's a fat lil chode. Then again rifle is 18+ lbs as is. Suck it up and move to the next stage.
     
    OK, I've changed my mind: Get a brake. They are pure magic. They will make all your shooting problems disappear. After all, people who shoot comps use them to get more points.

    BTW, eat apple pie. I saw one win a ribbon in my local fair once: Pure magic. They make all your gastronomic problems disappear. After all, people who eat pie eat apple pie.

    What a Dick comment Graham.....
     
    I am going with a NWP here in wyoming. My gun is coming in (used) without a thread protector on its pre threaded barrel (AAC-SD .308) and I am just getting a "thread cover" with holes drilled in it. I am getting the brake so my wife will shoot it. I agree 100% about training, and will do so when the time comes. Thank you all for the advice.

    P.S. I know the brake will make it shoot like a watergun and get sub .0001 moa groups with it as well.......It will match my Ballistic plate hello kitty backpack too.......
     
    I've owned and used only surefire. So far so good. It was on a fairly light Rem700 300wm and did well enough i've got one coming for a new TRG I just picked up in 308. I would role with what KYS said. Find what can you want, and order both....:)
     
    What is your favorite brake for .308?

    What a Dick comment Graham.....
    If you really think that's being a dick, and you're not just being a Troll, then you haven't been here very long.

    The marksmanship principle is this: Spotting your hits from alternative positions has nothing to do with muzzle brakes.
     
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    Bender,

    I agree with Graham. And your neighbors at the range will be annoyed with you. However, if you must have one, I like the Surefire. It not only tames recoil but controls torque, and it looks good. The APA Little Jimmy is great for recoil, but it's big and ugly. This is why it's on a fire breathing 300Win Mag. If you're standing next to me on a hunt and it blows your ears out then let that be a lesson to you. The AAC brake is for a MK13-SD. It's a good, but not great, brake. Do not get one unless you need it for a mount. Which brings me to what another poster said, just get a can. Subsist on peanut butter and Ramen noodles. Forget you have an AC (you live in WY anyways). Drive slower. Drink cheap beer. Date homely girls (maybe one that resembles the Little Jimmy). Cooking is over rated, eat things raw, start a mammalian sushi trend and tell natural gas providers to go pound salt. Go scrub floors at TBAC. Whatever it takes, save up for a can.

    MTT

    Lol....I do all of that....I am going to go donate plasma for gun money. My wife of 14years is Beautiful and puts up with my sorry ass. I don't rock the boat when times are tough....she let me open a gun store for pete sake!!! But I am a cheap bastard and like boobies. So i will pinch all the money I can, I have a SWFA showing up today and a timney trigger coming with the AAC, so a good stock and Bi pod are next. I already reload and have the AAC's lil brother in .223 SPS Tac for practice. I would love a suppressor, especially since Thunder Beast is here in town. but that will be a year or two....
     
    i was pleased with my PWS PRC before my can came in. Brakes let me shoot more rounds which means more practice which means maybe i get a little better. I like a good brake, regardless of the hecklers.
     
    Guy asks for a muzzle brake and people start bashing him. Maybe he has a reason he doesn't want to disclose for wanting a muzzle brake. In my humble opinion using a muzzle brake doesn't make you any less a shooter, and no one should be heckled for it. In that kind of logic do you wear shoes? If you wear shoes you should really go barefoot because it will improve your posture (true story). But do you? Probably not because walking outside in shoes in more comfortable. Theirs no need to argue the whole muzzle brake vs no muzzle brake vs improving your form. Me, I cant shoot without a muzzle brake. I was shot in the wrist. Braking both my radius, and my ulna and 3 bones in my hand. In my left hand, my support hand. Every single time I pull the trigger that 14cm long titanium bone replacement conducts that recoil. Without a muzzle brake on a the 308, 30-06, or the 7mm Mag, even the shot gun.... I don't shoot. I think the wrong approach here is to bash, or downplay someone because of the equipment they choose to use. As for me. I run with surefire, its what we used in combat. I know it works, and it works well (hence their great reputation). If you do decide to get a can in the future your already set up for the surefire suppressors (also well known as being good). As for the bashing, shouldn't we be trying to help each other out, not bashing their choices, but trying to help them become better shooters?
     
    I disagree. People have different levels of comfort when dealing with recoil. I always thought a brake on a 223 was ridiculous til I bought an ar with a brake on it already. Not like I need it for comfort but the muzzle barely moves even during fast strings. I love it.

    The holland quick discharge brake works great. The muscle brake is another good one. I havent tried too many others but I tend to prefer the brakes with ports rather than holes unless the holes are on top like the one on my ar.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

    Considering most .223 guns are AR's and we are in the bolt section.


    A brake on a .223 will result in faster follow up shots as there ill be less recoil and muzzle change.

    A brake on a .308 bolt gun is going to do nothing but make a little more noise and may reduce recil slightly. Your follow shots wont be any faster beacuse you still have to manualy cycle the action.

    If this was a 300WM or above, it would be a different story.

    Many breaks also can change how the weapon shoots. Some are known to open up groups.
     
    Looking at buying one soon. Barrel is threaded. Looking for recoil control.

    Any Pro-Con to type or brand? No can in my future, till I win the lottery.


    Looks to me that the OP was asking for recommendations on which type or brand he should get, minus any recommendations on a suppressor because last I checked, the chances of winning the lottery was pretty slim. So why not spare the talk/bickering of "you don't need one" or "shooting fundamentals" and focus on what OP is really asking for?

    I had ran Ross Schuler's brakes, Badger Thruster, and now Badger Mini FTE, on two different .308s and now 6.5 Creedmoor respectively. Of these, I prefer the Badger Mini FTE because it is effective, and is easily removed for cleaning of ports and barrel crown. I shoot mostly prone and I go home pain-free after each and every range session and that's what matters to me. YMMV.
     
    If you really think that's being a dick, and you're not just being a Troll, then you haven't been here very long.

    The marksmanship principle is this: Spotting your hits from alternative positions has nothing to do with muzzle brakes.

    I've been here since '09 Graham....but between losing passwords and the big site switcharoo where alot of members lost post counts etc. etc. and also givin the fact my job has nothing to do with sitting behind a desk or working in front of a computer....might just a TINCY LITTLE BIT have to do with it.....those giant office buildings you see all over the country, yeah I'm the guy up there on that iron....since the fall of 2000....steady

    So those things^^^have a little to do with my sooo low post count and member date....i'm a builder of America first, posting on here is pretty low on my list. :)
     
    Bender,

    PM sent. I have (found) what you need, thanks to having to clear the way for the HVAC guys in the basement while this thread was growing over the last few hours.

    MTT
     
    Considering most .223 guns are AR's and we are in the bolt section.


    A brake on a .223 will result in faster follow up shots as there ill be less recoil and muzzle change.

    A brake on a .308 bolt gun is going to do nothing but make a little more noise and may reduce recil slightly. Your follow shots wont be any faster beacuse you still have to manualy cycle the action.

    If this was a 300WM or above, it would be a different story.

    Many breaks also can change how the weapon shoots. Some are known to open up groups.

    Interesting. I was unaware that brakes are effective at reducing recoil and muzzle climb on semiauto 223s but not bolt action 308s.

    I've fired a lot of rounds of 308, both with and without brakes and it's ALWAYS felt like a substantial reduction in recoil when I've had the brake on. I must've been imagining that.

    Perhaps "breaks" might open up groups, but quality brakes installed by a good gunsmith don't.
     
    Interesting. I was unaware that brakes are effective at reducing recoil and muzzle climb on semiauto 223s but not bolt action 308s.

    I've fired a lot of rounds of 308, both with and without brakes and it's ALWAYS felt like a substantial reduction in recoil when I've had the brake on. I must've been imagining that.

    Perhaps "breaks" might open up groups, but quality brakes installed by a good gunsmith don't.



    I was unaware that Semi and Bolt guns have the same shooting characteristics.

    Recoil and Muzzle climb effect shooting semi auto, not so much for a bolt gun. This results in faster and more accurate shooting with a semi.................which does not translate to a bolt gun.

    Do you not understand the obvious? Not trying to be a smartass, serious question.

    If recoil on a moderate to heavy bolt .308 is a problem, then I suggest a more appropriate hobby like knitting or learning to arrange flowers.




    Truth is you don't know what effect a brake/can/slick setup have until test them all. May find out that your "good gunsmith installed and timed brake" actually will close the group up some when the brake is removed.
     
    Ahh, let them bash. I like to hear both sides. I want my 125lbs wife to shoot it. Form or no form. At least she will go shoot with me. I will go post pics when she does. I was going to try Badger or Thunder Beast. But I have some other shooters offline say the NWP is better. So I will try it out, and if I don't like it I will sell it here.
     
    I was unaware that Semi and Bolt guns have the same shooting characteristics.

    Recoil and Muzzle climb effect shooting semi auto, not so much for a bolt gun. This results in faster and more accurate shooting with a semi.................which does not translate to a bolt gun.

    Do you not understand the obvious? Not trying to be a smartass, serious question.

    If recoil on a moderate to heavy bolt .308 is a problem, then I suggest a more appropriate hobby like knitting or learning to arrange flowers.




    Truth is you don't know what effect a brake/can/slick setup have until test them all. May find out that your "good gunsmith installed and timed brake" actually will close the group up some when the brake is removed.

    Ahhhh, I understand you now!!

    Recoil reduction is only an advantage for semi autos.

    I learn so much from the snipers hide!
     
    What is your favorite brake for .308?

    I love it. Got popcorn and a Dr. P. I have brake questions answered. But if I hear someone say "bone support" I am going to pee myself.....

    I should make a Sniper's Hide bingo card....with Frank's blessing I just might......
     
    I agree Mike, on the bs. If you want a brake get one. Properly installed they shoot great. I use JEC, they aren't the only but do the job great. Also some states don't allow suppressors. Suppressors seem to reduce recoil also, Just a thought.


    R
     
    Glad to know there are so many Hercules on this forum who can take a beating... How getting a brake for a rifle automatically equates to the shooter being weak and unable to shoot large caliber firearms, or any firearms is beyond me...

    Saying if recoil on a 308 (medium to heavy weight only, so a light weight 308 is okay to cry about?) is too much for us then we should leave this hobby, is like saying if we don't like to eat veggies we should stop eating altogether...

    If you don't need a brake to shoot even a .50 BMG, good for you, but don't presume to tell others how they should go about enjoying their hobby.
     
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    Pretty much all my rifles have brakes and any I have built will have one but I won't bother to explain why since it's pointless. It's obvious I can't shoot, have poor form and am just a giant pussy.
     
    I am 140 pounds, and after shooting my .308 bolt all day I can be a little sore...Probably mostly from bad form since I am new to long range bolt guns.

    I appreciate the info on here, I ordered a JEC brake for my Rem 5R, call me a sissy if you like but I also want my girlfriend to shoot with me and she's only 102 pounds and is not interested in taking classes with me (yet).

    She can handle the 5.56 rifle length AR I built for her well, and doesn't mind the recoil (have a VLTOR A5 buffer system and Emod stock which helps).

    She hates the .308 still, so limbsaver + muzzle brake is it. I'm also going to have her shoot the semi-auto first

    Not everyone is a giant muscle bound military spec ops elite operator, some of us are tiny midgets...

    PS--Sometimes sarcasm is lost on us noobs--For Example: I know it's not true, but part of me really thinks I should eat some apple pie before I go to the range next time...dammit Graham for putting that in my head! But hey, maybe I should eat some pie and gain some weight....
     
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    I am built like a 6'2" Jack Black. The closest I will ever be to an Operator is if I go find Gecko45 at the mall and join his F.ast A.ction R.esponse T.eam
     
    I noticed Franks "Bravo 6 Delta" in 6 Creedmoor sports a Badger brake.

    Must be he really lacks "fundamentals" putting a brake on a 6mm.