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Rifle Scopes What ring height for Bushnell ERS on an XLR chassis & Rem 700?

sentry1

Crayon Eater
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Minuteman
Jul 7, 2012
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I'm swapping my Remington 700 from a McMillan A5 to an XLR Evolution chassis, and I just realized that my Seekins 34 mm low rings will no longer work on the XLR.

What is the minimum height in Seekins or Leupold rings that will work with this new setup?

Details: Bushnell 34mm ERS, 50mm objective, NF 20MOA one piece rail on a Remington 700 short action.
 
Well, it depends upon how big you are, how tall your face is, what position you like to get a good cheek weld, what the barrel taper/dimensions are and etc., etc...... So this is all pretty personal and additionally can be very specific to a given rig. Usually when I am putting together a rig, I peruse the manufacturers' websites (they often have better, more extensive specs/measurements than their catalogs do) and get out my calipers to do a bunch of measuring and then do the math. That usually saves me from spending money on something that will turn out to be not suitable for MY application. Usually, if you are off by a few thousandths of an inch, it doesn't really matter much unless it leads to a scope to barrel "clash"!!

I know that isn't what you were hoping to hear, but there is no easy answer, really. My suggestion would be to get your calipers out, do some research and use a little brain power to figure out what is right FOR YOU.
 
Thanks for the condescending tone and implying I'm too dumb/lazy to do my own legwork. Also, way to write out all that mess (you get points for good grammar/spelling at least), just to contribute nothing in the way of a solution.

If you had used some brainpower yourself, you would know that it doesn't depend on the conditions you stated, because the XLR has an adjustable cheekpiece, and a tubular forearm, so ring height-cheek weld match up and barrel contour are irrelevant. I need a ring height that will clear the forearm, and I can just lift up the cheek piece to get the cheek weld I want.

There IS an easy answer by the way, which is why I crowd sourced my question here on the forum: Someone may have this combination of mass produced hardware, and be able to give me the answer I was looking for.

I did do the measuring, and I need about .2" more height. But that's hard to verify at the moment, because the XLR forearm tube requires the rail be chopped short, so I can't get a good measurement, and I don't want to waste time & money on rings that will be 'close-ish' but not actually work.

So to clarify: I asked hoping someone with actual hands/eyes on a relevant configuration could provide me with some useful input.
 
Thanks for the condescending tone and implying I'm too dumb/lazy to do my own legwork. Also, way to write out all that mess (you get points for good grammar/spelling at least), just to contribute nothing in the way of a solution.

If you had used some brainpower yourself, you would know that it doesn't depend on the conditions you stated, because the XLR has an adjustable cheekpiece, and a tubular forearm, so ring height-cheek weld match up and barrel contour are irrelevant. I need a ring height that will clear the forearm, and I can just lift up the cheek piece to get the cheek weld I want.

There IS an easy answer by the way, which is why I crowd sourced my question here on the forum: Someone may have this combination of mass produced hardware, and be able to give me the answer I was looking for.

I did do the measuring, and I need about .2" more height. But that's hard to verify at the moment, because the XLR forearm tube requires the rail be chopped short, so I can't get a good measurement, and I don't want to waste time & money on rings that will be 'close-ish' but not actually work.

So to clarify: I asked hoping someone with actual hands/eyes on a relevant configuration could provide me with some useful input.

OK...forgive me if being realistic and stating what needs to be done is condescending, not to mention that I did NOT imply you were lazy, but if that is what you took from direction from someone that has been there and done that and TRIED TO GIVE YOU SOME SUGGESTIONS AS TO HOW TO GET WHERE YOU WANT TO BE, then so be it. And where you put your scope, height-wise DOES depend on a lot of things that are individual which no one else can actually do for you without you and the gun right there. I DID NOT INTEND to give you an answer because YOU are the only one that can answer the questions you posed. Since you don't understand that, I guess getting your shorts in a wad is the fall-back position. So be it. Put it wherever SOMEONE ELSE tells and don't gripe. Just don't be surprised where they tell you to put it.
 
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I've got the XRS 4.5-30x50 on an AX chassis. I know it's not the xlr but it's a tube gun without the rail section on top. I've got a badger 20 MOA rail on it and am running seekins rings. I went with the extra high and my scope is maybe 1/8" off of the tube. I'd think that yours would be very similar. I did however call seekins and talk to them, and then I called eurooptic to order because seekins was out of stock on that model. They actually had a XRS and an ax in stock and tried it out to make sure it'd fit. Hope this helps even though it's not the same exact chassis.
 
If I remember correctly XLR has a calculator on there website to figure ring height. I'm thinking about ordering one myself.
 
With my 700 aac in a carbon chassis I needed 1.3" inch rings with a 50mm bell. That is with xlr's scope base.
 
If I remember correctly XLR has a calculator on there website to figure ring height. I'm thinking about ordering one myself.

Yep, I tried to use that and got 1.25", I figured I might end up needing to go 1.3" minimum because I use flip up caps.

With my 700 aac in a carbon chassis I needed 1.3" inch rings with a 50mm bell. That is with xlr's scope base.
Is the XLR base level, or canted 20 MOA? I couldn't find their scope base on their website.