What steel plate sizes to get -or- help me set up my practice range

TheGerman

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  • Jan 25, 2010
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    I know this is about as subjective as, 'what color car is the best?' but I was looking to order some steel plates and figured I'd kick this around a little before having a few hundred pounds of them and realizing I should have done something else.

    My goal here is to get 4-6 plates with stands/hangers (more on this later) toss them in the back of the Jeep and go to the area I usually can shoot out to 1k to. Drive the Jeep around, drop off a plate, drive some more and drop off another, etc. All random distances, some obscured, some sitting all jacked up, etc. My main focus is UKD 1st round hits. And the rest is data book trial/error/why I did what I did.

    Question here is, what sizes for a 308 and 5.56 (18 inch SPR) would be considered on the more difficult side? I obviously don't want a 6 foot tall plate but I'm not going to shoot at a 2 inch square plate at 800 yards either. Was also thinking of getting a smaller torso on some sort of post for pistol and carbine shooting.

    I've never ordered plates before so I'd like some insights. Any that I've ever shot at either belonged to a friend, at the gun range or was at the tax payers expense. I was thinking about getting either 1 or 2 25% IPSC targets that can double as pistol/carbine targets as well as a 6x6 and something else.

    For 308/5.56, would 3/8" AR500 steel be fine? And what is the best way to hang them that is able to be moved by 1 person and is not a semi-permanent 'stand'? As I mentioned, everything would need to be able to go in the back of a jeep and not require 3 hours of setup or 2 people.

    Best question would be, as far as plates, what would you get for anything from 100 - 1k yards, UKD, for 308 and a 5.56 SPR as well as some pistol and carbine training?
     
    IPSC Precision Rifle Target [IPSCPRTSD] - $469.71 : MGM Targets, Taking training to the next level...

    I have had fun with this for @ 10 yrs from 300 to 1,760 w/ 5.56 - .300WinMag. Calling 'Head' at the outer reaches of the caliber is a great self check on the given conditions. Unlike the COM door, closing the head door is easy if you can open it.

    On really long days I open the COM door and fit in a cover plate (separate homemade AR500 plate) b/c getting that COM door closed can be shear luck depending on wind or big distances.

    I personally am not interested in shooting anything that is bigger, I also have some 8" x 8" and some 4" x 8".
     
    I used to cut 4x4s and 6x6s into same length squares and toss them out. Cheap and easy. Try that and it will give you a feel for the size targets you might want at the distances you want to shoot. The polymer target balls cost a good bit more, but they also change distance and location more readily.

    For an all-around target, I prefer the MGM autos: MGM Targets Auto-Poppers

    I have 2 of the skinny popper shaped and I use them for pistol from 10 to 20 yards, carbine 100 to 300 and rifle out to 400 yards. I also have 2 with the 8" plate which I will use out to 600 yards, and again for pistol and shotgun from 10 to 30 yards or so. Great targets, great company that heavily supports the shooting sports as well.
     
    He said practice range, not feel good about yourself range! =)

    Something like that lol

    Either way, it seems that with multiple targets and 'dropping' them randomly as I drive out, they will be a varying MOA regardless. I also think this may screw with me if I get enough different sizes as I try to mil and range them.
     
    German, hope your doing well!

    I would recommend a 1 and 2 MOA size target at each distance. Makes it esay to get on the steel with the bigger target and then shooting the 1MOA target will be much more challenging.

    If you have some T POSTs around your area, look at our T POST brackets, simple and quick,

    We do the same thing you are talking about, drive around, slip the target with small bracket attached over the T POST and keep driving, Easy, and quick. The T POST brackets just stay right on the targets and will last a lifetime like all the targets.

    Good luck, let us know if we can help!

    Jake
     
    I'm also of the thinking that 1 & 2 MOA targets will be the ticket. Although I have been known to go bigger in an area that don't show misses well. That way you may still see the "miss" on the edge of the steel
     
    I like to keep my steel at right about 2 MOA at a given yardage so I know I can make precise hits and measure groups, and at least make wind calls and get hits when the wind gets crazy here in SD.

    I have a 1/3 IPSC, 8", 10", 12" and 24" plates.

    I usually hang 8" at 400 or so.
    the IPSC at around 500,
    10 at 6-700 and 12 at 8-900.
    The 24" currently hangs at 1185.
     
    I won't get into the size of the targets...but I can at least try to save you some money.

    Use mild steel.

    My friend and I make targets in our spare time. One target we made uses 5/8" thick steel hanging from chain. .308, 7.62x39, and 5.56 (LAP green tip) leave a slight crater (LAP a little deeper from the steel core).
    However, we are shooting them at 75-80 yards...and I see no reason that they won't hold up for ~500rds. Longer if you don't mind the mangled look.

    Good news is, we get the steel for free. Or I could go to the drop shop in town and buy anything for $0.50/lb

    The last target we made was made from 2 pieces of 3/4" plate and one piece of 1" plate welded to separate pieces of round tubing. That tubing is slid over a slightly smaller tube mounted to the frame of the stand. The targets are free to swing, with none of the flopping around like they do hanging from chain.


    target2_zpsee33cf0d.jpg
     
    IPSC Precision Rifle Target [IPSCPRTSD] - $469.71 : MGM Targets, Taking training to the next level...

    I have had fun with this for @ 10 yrs from 300 to 1,760 w/ 5.56 - .300WinMag. Calling 'Head' at the outer reaches of the caliber is a great self check on the given conditions. Unlike the COM door, closing the head door is easy if you can open it.

    On really long days I open the COM door and fit in a cover plate (separate homemade AR500 plate) b/c getting that COM door closed can be shear luck depending on wind or big distances.

    I personally am not interested in shooting anything that is bigger, I also have some 8" x 8" and some 4" x 8".

    Wow! $500 for something I made for free! So mine doesn't have a "trap door"...give me 5 minutes with my plasma and welder and it will

    Just some inspiration for some of the more creative shooters out there:


    target1_zps01dbc653.jpg
     
    Do not listen to ATC, do NOT use mild steel. It becomes damaged too easily and the face of the steel becomes pitted. If shooting closer in it can really make splash back unpredictable and someone can get hurt. And yes, I have seen someone get injured shooting steel targets because of this, you have to be careful.

    To answer your question, targets of the 1-2 MOA size dispersed randomly gives you a lot of flexibility.
     
    There's a few reasons we pay more for targets made from AR500, none of them bad. There are group buys and inventory reductions on the Hide all the time that are quite affordable. Skip the mild steel.
     
    Another thing to think about is target shape. A 2/3 scale IPSC @ 500 yards is a lot easier than a 12" plate (circle) at the same distance. You better be dead nuts on range and have your data trued/squared away or that 2 MOA target becomes 1 MOA real quick if you are off on range/elevation and the wind is puffin'. That radius shrinks the target size and doesn't leave you with much to catch the strays on bad wind call, gusts, etc... I see it all the time and have fallen victim to the "round" targets more than once.
     
    The German – you have posted some good questions – here are some friendly suggestions.

    1) 3/8” AR500 will be plenty fine for shooting .308 or .223 at ranges over 100 yards … or any handgun for that matter. Do NOT shoot at mild steel – it can be very dangerous. Stay away from AR500 targets that have been welded – it weakens the material. AR400 can be had for less money but if you spend a little extra now on certified quality AR500 your targets should last a long, long time.

    2) 1 and 2 MOA targets will serve you well. A mix of 6” and 12” round gongs should let you do what you want to do. 50% IPSC torsos allow you to mix it up a little and provide different dimensions to practice mil ranging with. Consider that you don’t want to shoot only prone – you’ll want to shoot from all kinds of positions. When you really want to test your wind calling skills get some 2” or 3” wide x 12” tall “wind strips” to shoot.

    3) Place your targets in front of a berm if possible. This will allow you to see splash and make your own calls if shooting without a spotter. Shooting at a target with no background will become frustrating as it’s hard to see where your impacts are.

    4) For an easy to transport and setup stand check out The Last Stands. These simple brackets let you build any sized stand out of ½” rebar and the stands can be easily broken down and moved.

    Let us know what you end up with and how it works for you!
     
    I know this is about as subjective as, 'what color car is the best?' but I was looking to order some steel plates and figured I'd kick this around a little before having a few hundred pounds of them and realizing I should have done something else.

    My goal here is to get 4-6 plates with stands/hangers (more on this later) toss them in the back of the Jeep and go to the area I usually can shoot out to 1k to. Drive the Jeep around, drop off a plate, drive some more and drop off another, etc. All random distances, some obscured, some sitting all jacked up, etc. My main focus is UKD 1st round hits. And the rest is data book trial/error/why I did what I did.

    Question here is, what sizes for a 308 and 5.56 (18 inch SPR) would be considered on the more difficult side? I obviously don't want a 6 foot tall plate but I'm not going to shoot at a 2 inch square plate at 800 yards either. Was also thinking of getting a smaller torso on some sort of post for pistol and carbine shooting.

    I've never ordered plates before so I'd like some insights. Any that I've ever shot at either belonged to a friend, at the gun range or was at the tax payers expense. I was thinking about getting either 1 or 2 25% IPSC targets that can double as pistol/carbine targets as well as a 6x6 and something else.

    For 308/5.56, would 3/8" AR500 steel be fine? And what is the best way to hang them that is able to be moved by 1 person and is not a semi-permanent 'stand'? As I mentioned, everything would need to be able to go in the back of a jeep and not require 3 hours of setup or 2 people.

    Best question would be, as far as plates, what would you get for anything from 100 - 1k yards, UKD, for 308 and a 5.56 SPR as well as some pistol and carbine training?

    If the wind is up and you try your hand hitting MOA sized targets past 500Y you're going to wish you had bigger targets. That size steel isn't easy with ballistically superior cartridges when the wind is up. Lets face it, hitting is a lot more fun than doing a bunch of missing. At least get a few larger steels for the farther distances.
     
    Thank you andrewstc for pointing out The Last Stand target holder! As for answering the authors question, I would go with AR500 steel targets. There are a few good places to buy them for good prices, it is as easy as doing a Google search for AR500 steel targets, and comparing which place has the best prices on them with shipping. If you are shooting out to 1000 yards, I would get a full size torso target or some square or circle gongs that are at least 16".

    I have shot my AR500 targets with various pistol calibers, and rifles and they have lasted me for thousands of rounds with only some slight cratering from when I used 5.56 at about 80 yards. When I go to private property to shoot or to a range that I need to sometimes use my own target stands, I typically use a structure I built for a few bucks with 2x4's and 1x3's and some nails. Not the greatest way, and in fact I will be ordering the "Last Stand" target holder soon as mentioned in the post above. I can take a picture later if you want of the structure I built to hang my targets, if you guys promise not to laugh too hard at me ;).