What type of 6mm BR sizing dies to use?

ilmonster

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Well, I have a die question for a new build I’m doing. I have taken a Rem 700 I bought for cheap (and put a few hundred rounds through), had my local gunsmith remove the barrel and am going to do a Remage conversion. The barrel I bought is a Criterion 6mm BR Norma from NSS. This will be used mostly for putting shots on paper and trying to make tiny groups. No competitions in my future.


The question I have is what type and/or brand of dies should I be looking at? I’ll be using Lapua brass. Looking at dies, I’m thinking Forster FL dies (which I have for my .223 and 6.5CM) that I always could have honed out by Forster for my particular loads. Also considering Redding Type-S FL sizing die set where I could buy the proper neck sizing bushings after measuring the diameter of a loaded round.


My concern is I’ve read that using a bushing die can cause a doughnut around the base of the neck after a few reloads as the bushing doesn’t size all the way down the neck. Is this a legitimate concern? I’ve had good luck with the Forster FL die sets I’ve use in the past – no complaints. Thoughts?
 

Herb Stoner

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Forster has a new zinc coating that I personally don't care for. I just received a Short Action Customs sizing die and, based on very initial playing with it, like it. The SAC bushing configuration avoids the donut issue. A bit pricey but a very nice tool. I previously avoided bushing dies due to the donut issue.
I have various Redding FL dies for other calibers and am happy with them as well.
 

ma smith

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    Tagged for interest.
     
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    ilmonster

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    I like the idea of the SAC dies, but boy, are those pricey!! A bushing that goes down to the shoulder makes total sense. Interesting no one else has produced dies and bushings like that...
     

    straightshooter1

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    My concern is I’ve read that using a bushing die can cause a doughnut around the base of the neck after a few reloads as the bushing doesn’t size all the way down the neck. Is this a legitimate concern? I’ve had good luck with the Forster FL die sets I’ve use in the past – no complaints. Thoughts?
    Not sizing all the way down the neck is sometime considered a benefit, like when it's sizing only 2/3's down the neck resulting in better centering of the cartridge in the chamber. As for the doughnut, it's only of concern when the bullet is being seated to where the bearing surface makes contact with the doughnut. Since I seat all my bullets long, it's never really an issue. The only thing I don't like about using a bushing die is that they tend to produce more runout than a non-bushing die like Forster's FL dies, though that too can be mitigated by the use of expansion mandrels.
     

    Dolomite

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    Harrells FL bushing die, send them 3 - 3x fired pieces of brass and they will send you a die that fits your chamber.

    Call them and ask about the donut, they'll explain everything.
     

    mbeavers1

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    Harrells FL bushing die, send them 3 - 3x fired pieces of brass and they will send you a die that fits your chamber.

    Call them and ask about the donut, they'll explain everything.
    2nd this. My Harrells die has been great and very cost effective. I use a Wilson Arbor seater.
     

    Dstoenner

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    I turn all my necks. So i use a Forster FL sizing die that i sent back and had honed to the sizing bushing i used on my Whidden die. I also pulled the button expander. Now when i size my cases 90% or so are .001 or less runout. Much better than using a bushing die

    David
     

    want to be

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    Just asking a question, does the mighty armory full length compare to these?
     

    mbeavers1

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    Just asking a question, does the mighty armory full length compare to these?
    I have used the Mighty Armory die. Waynes dies are generally very good but the 6BR die was developed using Petersen brass, which have thicker necks than Lapua. I found that I did not get proper sizing and almost no neck tension.

    This was a while back (8mo ago) and I discussed it at length with him. The die at that time was equivalent to a 268 bushing, but for my Lapua I needed a 266. I believe he was going to fix that. If he fixed that, I'd certainly recommend them.

    I used his dies for 6cm and found them to be very good.
     

    ilmonster

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    Thanks for all the reply's. I finally decided to get a Whidden Gunworks non-bushing sizing die after reading a lot about them. You can change out the sizing buttons to get a different sized neck. No, not the same as a SAC die, but I don't want to spend that type of coin on one die, nor go down the rabbit hole of neck turning, mandrel dies, $600 primer seaters and all the other things F-class and benchrest guys do. Rather work on my shooting skills.
     

    Cardboard Assassin

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    Thanks for all the reply's. I finally decided to get a Whidden Gunworks non-bushing sizing die after reading a lot about them. You can change out the sizing buttons to get a different sized neck. No, not the same as a SAC die, but I don't want to spend that type of coin on one die, nor go down the rabbit hole of neck turning, mandrel dies, $600 primer seaters and all the other things F-class and benchrest guys do. Rather work on my shooting skills.
    I have a Whidden (non-bushing) for my 6BR and they are great dies - it will serve you well.
     
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    Tokay444

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    SAC, or Redding die and SAC Bushings.
    Donuts are a non issue if you never push the bearing/boat tail junction past the neck/shoulder junction. Using an expander mandrel also helps push the donut to the outside.
     

    Changed

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    Anyone use the Bullet Central Micron dies?
     

    Trippm

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    Redding dies with Redding TiN bushing. No issues. SAC bushings are on the way
     

    ilmonster

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    Well, got all the parts in from Northland Shooter Supply in addition to some soft jaws for my vise for my 6 BR build. Had some time yesterday and decided to get to it. My local gunsmith already removed the original barrel from the action. I cleaned up the action, paying special attention to cleaning the action threads. Next was removing the ejector from my R700 bolt, then dry fitting everything to make sure there were no fitment issues. With the new barrel threads lubricated (lightly) with some Lubriplate 130-A and the barrel nut screwed on, I screwed the barrel into the action. Put the Go gauge in the bolt and screwed the barrel in until I felt resistance and then hand screwed the barrel nut up to the action. Then tried the No Go gauge and the bolt wouldn’t drop. We’re in business! Put the action and recoil lug into the action vise and the barrel into the bench vise and torqued the nut down. Then tried the Go and No Go gauges a few more times to be safe and I was done! Ejector back into the bolt and then the barreled action into the stock. Now I have to get some of that nice new Lapua brass loaded up and get that brass a first firing. Looking forward to this being the easy button as others say!


    6BR IMG_3960.jpeg
    6BR IMG_3959.jpeg
    .
     

    Cardboard Assassin

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    Well, got all the parts in from Northland Shooter Supply in addition to some soft jaws for my vise for my 6 BR build. Had some time yesterday and decided to get to it. My local gunsmith already removed the original barrel from the action. I cleaned up the action, paying special attention to cleaning the action threads. Next was removing the ejector from my R700 bolt, then dry fitting everything to make sure there were no fitment issues. With the new barrel threads lubricated (lightly) with some Lubriplate 130-A and the barrel nut screwed on, I screwed the barrel into the action. Put the Go gauge in the bolt and screwed the barrel in until I felt resistance and then hand screwed the barrel nut up to the action. Then tried the No Go gauge and the bolt wouldn’t drop. We’re in business! Put the action and recoil lug into the action vise and the barrel into the bench vise and torqued the nut down. Then tried the Go and No Go gauges a few more times to be safe and I was done! Ejector back into the bolt and then the barreled action into the stock. Now I have to get some of that nice new Lapua brass loaded up and get that brass a first firing. Looking forward to this being the easy button as others say!


    View attachment 7834774View attachment 7834773.

    From my experience it is the easy button. It is not uncommon for my 6BR to be sub 0.25 MOA (I've had several groups in that range in the same day so totally repeatable).

    I run 105 Berger Hybrids / Varget / Lapua brass / CCI 450 primers and load development was almost non existent. I read Mark Gordons article on bullet jump and went with 0.075" jump.

    I started low and tested 4 different powder charges and at the end I was left scratching my head as they all shot well!. From there I picked the speed I wanted and simply used that combo ever since.

    Good luck with your journey.