Hunting & Fishing  Whats your zero?

athanasios23

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Just wondering what your zero is for a hunting rifle that has a scope with capped turrets. Do you go 100 yards or 200. Do you find the 200 yard zero has you on at 50 and 200, while being slightly high at 100 yards? My question if for hunting rifles that don't see much more then 2or 300 yard shots.
 
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rth1800

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    Most folks here don't shoot rifles like that or limit shots to those distances. Not that it is right or wrong, simply the wrong crowd to answer your question.
     

    athanasios23

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    Thanks for your input. I know it a long range site but many members seem to be and hunt on the East cost. Figured they may have a rifle or two set up for hunting tree stands or smaller fields.
     
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    SD carpenter

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    You should always zero at 100 yards, and then dial up to what you want your max point blank range to be. That way your zero is more consistent wherever you go when environmental are different.
     

    Baron23

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    Just wondering what your zero is for a hunting rifle that has a scope with capped turrets. Do you go 100 yards or 200. Do you find the 200 yard zero has you on at 50 and 200, while being slightly high at 100 yards? My question if for hunting rifles that don't see much more then 2or 300 yard shots.
    200 yard zero for hunting. Dial up?...with the buck moving out of the shooting lane and into the woods..."oh, wait, where are my reading glasses so I can read the turret" haha

    With ELD-X in .308, 200 yard zero makes me a tad under an inch high at 50, 2.2" high at 100, 3.75" low at 250, and about 9.5" low at 300. All good for hold over or, quite frankly, from 50 - 200 just treat it as flat shooting.

    I live on the east cost....for me, over 250 is a damn long hunting shot out of a stand. But I don't claim to be a great shot or hunter so take it all with a grain of salt.
     
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    Skookum

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    200 yds makes the most sense if you aren't going to be able to dial quickly.

    It's been done for more than a century now. Anyone who has hunted the eastern mountains knows this.
     

    XLR308

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    For the type of rifle you are asking about and zero in my case that is a sporter weight 270win running mostly 130 grain bullets.
    I sight in and zero at 100 yards since it is a relatively flat shooting round and just hold over when needed.
     

    Lange Carabine

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    Mine are zeroed at 100yds and I very seldom shoot game over 200yds anymore.
    Nothing wrong with a 200yd zero and in years past I zeroed my hunting rifles at that distance.
    Now that I'm older and have more patience it's more of a challenge to see how close I can kill deer.
     
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    XTREM HTR16

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    Just wondering what your zero is for a hunting rifle that has a scope with capped turrets. Do you go 100 yards or 200. Do you find the 200 yard zero has you on at 50 and 200, while being slightly high at 100 yards? My question if for hunting rifles that don't see much more then 2or 300 yard shots.

    For whitetail hunting in Indiana with fixed power scopes I sighted in 2” high at 100 yards.
    For my “out west” rigs with elevation turrets I am dead on at 100 and twist.
     
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    BrienM

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    We used to sight in deer/groundhog rifles at 200 yards or 1.25"-1.5" high at 100.. They would be close enough inside that and if the animal was beyond, we would hold over an estimated amount.. "kentucky windage"/ "wing it".... Now we have rangefinders as well as target knobs and dial.
     
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    diggler1833

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    My first deer rifle (still have) has an old Redfield on it with duplex reticle and capped turrets. I'm zeroed at 150 with it, and figure I'm pretty good with a center hold just behind the front leg to 200. I don't take it to areas where I'll need to go further or have the time to mess with a scope when I see game.

    My 'grab and run out onto the back porch to shoot something' rifle is a .223 with a SFP BDC reticle calibrated on 8x. I've got the reticle zeroed at 100 and doped to 300, and used that rifle two mornings ago to shoot a coyote at about 200 yards that was running around inside of one of my herds.

    My hunting rifle that I take to shoot across pastures wears a scope that I dial the correct elevation on.
     

    Old Coach 67

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    I sight in at 200yds with a 30-06 shooting 165grn bullets.
    You will be 2" high @ 100, dead on at 200, aim at the back
    of the deer @ 300- bullet hits about 9" below POA
    Leupold VXII 3-9 duplex reticle put the top of the bottom
    post on the belly of the deer @ 400- POI is about 8" high.
    At 500 put the top of the bottom post on the back of the deer,
    POI will be 10" below POA.
    This works well for my load and rifle.
    You MUST work up your own DOPE for your combo.
     
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    Double Naught Spy

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    I have a 100 yard zero because most of my shots are 75-150 yards. I don't want a 200 yard zero where I need to be considering compensating for the difference more often than not. I know, so people will say that the difference is negligible. It is until it isn't.

    A buddy of mine was running a 200 yard zero and forgot to compensate for the difference when shooting at 85 yards or so. His opening was supposed to be a head shot below the ear. He managed to kill the hog with a followup, however. Afterwards, he told me, "Well, I didn't miss. I hit it three times with my first shot."

    100_1803 crop.JPG
     

    zk-315

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    I have a 100 yard zero because most of my shots are 75-150 yards. I don't want a 200 yard zero where I need to be considering compensating for the difference more often than not. I know, so people will say that the difference is negligible. It is until it isn't.

    A buddy of mine was running a 200 yard zero and forgot to compensate for the difference when shooting at 85 yards or so. His opening was supposed to be a head shot below the ear. He managed to kill the hog with a followup, however. Afterwards, he told me, "Well, I didn't miss. I hit it three times with my first shot."

    View attachment 7405427
    My dad did that on a doe. Pierced both of her ears but didn’t get a follow up shot until the next morning when she came in.
     
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    Skookum

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    I have a 100 yard zero because most of my shots are 75-150 yards. I don't want a 200 yard zero where I need to be considering compensating for the difference more often than not. I know, so people will say that the difference is negligible. It is until it isn't.

    A buddy of mine was running a 200 yard zero and forgot to compensate for the difference when shooting at 85 yards or so. His opening was supposed to be a head shot below the ear. He managed to kill the hog with a followup, however. Afterwards, he told me, "Well, I didn't miss. I hit it three times with my first shot."
    How does your buddy shooting poorly make the case for one zero vs another?
     
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    BullGear

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    It depends on how and where you're hunting. Hunting in the East with thick woods, zeroing in your rifle at 200 yards would be a waste. Many time 100 yards isn't optimum. I sight my hunting rifles for the area I'm hunting. My Winchester 30-30 is sighted in at 50 yards. This will allow me shoot anything from 20 yards to 100 yard without thinking too much about bullet trajectory.

    Now if you're hunting in more open areas, I like to sight my rifles in at 200 yards. I also use a 270, so it's a flatter trajectory than most other rounds.
     
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    acudaowner

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    pretty much center at 100 yards
    1598167036311.png
    even if I pull the last shot I'll take it for what it is
     

    AlpineSniper

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    Reason for not doing a 200 yard zero is that at 100 the environmental factors don't really affect the impact much whereas at 200 its in the air for that much longer and has longer for environmental effects. So if you are shooting on a windy day at 200 your zero will be off. And a 200 at sea level/humid air will be different if you travel elsewhere, whereas a 100 will be pretty close.
     

    Cheyenne Bodie

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    Reason for not doing a 200 yard zero is that at 100 the environmental factors don't really affect the impact much whereas at 200 its in the air for that much longer and has longer for environmental effects. So if you are shooting on a windy day at 200 your zero will be off. And a 200 at sea level/humid air will be different if you travel elsewhere, whereas a 100 will be pretty close.

    Very true, but you can use a 100 yard distance to zero at 200. Like said above with most game calibers that'll be ~1.5" high at 100 to get dead on at 200. Calculating MPBR for your preferred load will give you a good idea of 3" or so kill zone up/down deviation at ranges up to around 300, but it depends on the load of course.

    On a totally separate point, all this dialing talk ain't landing on my appalachian ass, over 400 is a pretty rare poke on game around here. I just use the reticle all the time, but that's small game with medium mag optics and not really worried about shot placement too much.
     

    inspcalahan

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    I used to go with 1-2" high at 100 and call it good. The last few years, I've migrated to 100 for a zero and then hold as necessary from there. I've not found my hunting style allows/gives the time to adjust the turrets. I just know my rifle and the caliber/ballistics out to what ranges I'm comfortable with. Knowing the animal size, I manually adjust my point of aim. Worked for me so far.
     
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    HeavyAssault

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    I sight in at 200yds with a 30-06 shooting 165grn bullets.
    You will be 2" high @ 100, dead on at 200, aim at the back
    of the deer @ 300- bullet hits about 9" below POA
    Leupold VXII 3-9 duplex reticle put the top of the bottom
    post on the belly of the deer @ 400- POI is about 8" high.
    At 500 put the top of the bottom post on the back of the deer,
    POI will be 10" below POA.
    This works well for my load and rifle.
    You MUST work up your own DOPE for your combo.

    ^^^^^This right here.....Here's your shooter.
     

    HeavyAssault

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    We all have held the sights just a tad off too much.....

    Ground hog....150+yds.... 223Rem @ 30ft off the ground....It decided to come back out after the close shave.....well I adjusted the hold.

     

    HaroldCoulter

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    Just wondering what your zero is for a hunting rifle that has a scope with capped turrets. Do you go 100 yards or 200. Do you find the 200 yard zero has you on at 50 and 200, while being slightly high at 100 yards? My question if for hunting rifles that don't see much more then 2or 300 yard shots.
    on my varmint / hog setups I really like a 50/200 zero. offset RMR at 25y -/+
     

    Nathan Gravitt

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    Just wondering what your zero is for a hunting rifle that has a scope with capped turrets. Do you go 100 yards or 200. Do you find the 200 yard zero has you on at 50 and 200, while being slightly high at 100 yards? My question if for hunting rifles that don't see much more then 2or 300 yard shots.
    I site in at 200 yds. Will put you near dead on at 50 and about 1 1/2” high at 100. For your average deer caliber, this will give the best “dead hold” for 0-240 yds. I used to site in dead on at 100 years ago. Chuck Hawks has some good write-ups about the 200 yd zero
     

    Slab74

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    When I hunt locally, I zero at 50 with my 6.8 spc. I’ve killed 90% of my blacktails under 60 yards but I’m a sneaky bastard, for a fat man. Out of state, I zero at 100. The math just seems easier for me with my 7mm mag and muzzle velocity.
     

    Skookum

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    You guys don't seem to be able to differentiate between "initial zero" and "hunting zero".

    You can get your initial zero at 100 yds, and still hunt with an adjusted 200 yd zero based on your dope.

    The OP is asking about a hunting zero, NOT at what distance he should establish an initial zero
     

    FalconII

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    For me my longest deer field is 340 yards long and 175 yards wide. I just zero at 100 yards and use the BDC on my scope in it. The majority of the fields are 150-200 yards long and those are the ones I mostly hunt in as they have the most game. Narrow 75 yards wide and out to 200 max yards long and shooting houses are in the middle on the south sides of the fields. 100 yard zero is all that's needed. The deer here prefer the smaller sized fields over wide open fields. Some times all you'll see is the front leg, neck and head sticking out of the brush with their head down eating on the very edge of the field.

    So for hunting I say zero for whatever is suited for your conditions. Just the opinion of an old red neck deer hunter.
     

    Prebanpaul

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    I have every single gun zeroed, at 100 and dial for distance. I have found typically if a deer is over 250y they are stationary or walking. I have plenty of time to dial up on a shot. I live in Ohio and we are only allowed a straight walled cartridge so 45-70 it is for me. 100 y zero and 1 mil to 200 for fast shots. After that it's simply dil and shoot. The deer in my profile pic was shot at 280y standing still. I have take 5 bucks (where only allowed one per year) like this the last five years.
     

    wade2big

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    For a rifle with a set and forget it scope, a 200 yard zero is what I use. Point and shoot from just in front of you to about 225 or so. Most cartridges leave about a 6” drop at 300 yards. Easy to compensate for.
     
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    wade2big

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    You guys don't seem to be able to differentiate between "initial zero" and "hunting zero".

    You can get your initial zero at 100 yds, and still hunt with an adjusted 200 yd zero based on your dope.

    The OP is asking about a hunting zero, NOT at what distance he should establish an initial zero
    Not all scopes are meant to dial. A plane Jane 3-9x40 will hold zero but turn the elevation adjustment up and back down and you wont even be in the ballpark. This is where a 200 yard or so initial zero makes the most sense as it reduces hold over height out to reasonable distances compared to a 100yd zero. Other than that, I get what you are saying.
     

    Skookum

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    Not all scopes are meant to dial. A plane Jane 3-9x40 will hold zero but turn the elevation adjustment up and back down and you wont even be in the ballpark. This is where a 200 yard or so initial zero makes the most sense as it reduces hold over height out to reasonable distances compared to a 100yd zero. Other than that, I get what you are saying.
    A 200 yard initial zero can still be done at 100 yds if need be. You just zero high. How many generations of hunters have zeroed 2" high at 100 yards and went to the woods?

    This isn't rocket science. I grew up hunting with a 30-06 and a 3-9x40mm Leupold. I get it.
    I have been shooting to 1K+ yards for 20 years with scopes meant to dial. I get it.
    Let's not make this shit hard.
     
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    wade2big

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    A 200 yard initial zero can still be done at 100 yds if need be. You just zero high. How many generations of hunters have zeroed 2" high at 100 yards and went to the woods?

    This isn't rocket science. I grew up hunting with a 30-06 and a 3-9x40mm Leupold. I get it.
    I have been shooting to 1K+ yards for 20 years with scopes meant to dial. I get it.
    Let's not make this shit hard.
    It sounded like you were making it hard. Lol. I never said a 200 yard zero couldn’t be accomplished at 100 yards. That was another fellow. Most scopes on most peoples rifles aren't meant to dial. I would wager a 3-9x40 out numbers any ither 100-1 or more. I didnt see my first one until well into my 30’s and it was because I bought it. We are in agreement that if your scooe is meant ti dial then absolutely zero for 100 yards and preset your turret if you want. I do exactly as you describe when out hunting with my rifles with scopes that dial.