Where do I start?

[BrentBradford]

Hello everyone, I'm new to the group have have so much to learn. I am no stranger to shooting but to this point it's primarily been related to hunting. I have decided to make something I enjoy my new hobby and I am really unsure of where to begin. I was recently given a new Remington 700 in 6.5 Creedmoor as a gift a have decided this will make for a good first project.

I know that most of the rifle needs to be scrapped but I don't really know where to begin. I don't have the budget to do everything at once so this will be a project build over a period of time. My question is this, what component do I start with first? I have already swapped out the factory trigger for a new Timney trigger, I know that I will need to get the action blueprinted, get a new stock, and a new barrel, and so on. I just need a little guidance of what I should do first, second, third, etc.

Thanks in advance

 

[TheBoctor]

Next step should be shoot it. The next modification i'd make would be a stock or chassis after you get some trigger time and identify some things you'd like. Then shoot the factory barrel out and figure out what direction you want to go with gunsmith/cartridge selection/barrel in the meantime.

 

[BrentBradford]

Thank you, I am planning on shooting it this weekend.

 

[Dthomas3523]

If you’re planning on spending the money on a blueprint, barrel, chassis etc.......

Just shoot that rifle as is while getting out and trying components or researching them. You can build a custom rig for not much more than you’ll spend reworking that one.

 

[hafejd30]

Before you start investing money a little at a time into the action (which is basically all you’ll have left when you throw the rest out) price what it will cost to have the work done.

LRI (long rifles Inc) is a great company. Go to their website and look under the gunsmithing. Or give them a call. The site allows you to scroll down with options of what you want and a final price when finished. Price what you plan to have done throughout the entire course of the build. Blueprint/bolt fluting/handle/side bolt release/cerakote etc

Then price it against a Bighorn or Defiance action.

You may find the best starting point may be an aftermarket action vs money into the 700.

If you have the work done definitely go through a reputable Smith. Not bubbas gunsmithing. Who will just square the face up and say it’s blueprinted

Your resale will be much better on the bighorn and defiance vs what you’ll have into the R700

Just food for thought. Practice with what you have until you research your desired final product

Personally I’m a fan of prefit barrels. A bighorn origin running a savage prefit from CBI is a good course. My cheapie prefits are savage actions and my recent platform is AIAT. Allows you to switch barrels and calibers etc without the need/cost/wait time of a smith. But that’s a personal preference

 

[b6graham]

Dont do anything that wont transfer to a custom action.

Trigger okay you're set there.
Chassis will transfer (krg bravo is a good starting point)
Scope and rings will transfer (what's your budget and intended shooting)

Action and barrel. Well throw a brake on it but leave the rest alone. Take that money youd spend on blueprinting and put it towards a custom action in a year when you shoot out that stock barrel

 

[BrentBradford]

Thanks everyone, I think for starters I will look at throwing out the tupperware stock and invest in a good one. I am a little bit of a traditionalist and would rather go with a stock vs a chassis. As of now I am stuck between getting a manners stock or an AG Composites stock. I don't really know much about the AG Composites but from what I have found they seem to be pretty good.

 

[b6graham]

what type of shooting? PRS/long range or more hunting?

 

[BrentBradford]

At this point I think just shooting at the range trying to see how far I can stretch it out. I have never had access to a range past 200 yards but recently found a range that goes out to 600.

 

[JC0352]

@BrentBradford I would say just shoot it. My dad has an SPS Tactical in 6.5CM that is bone stock, except for a Magpul hunter stock that I gave him. He’s placed middle of the pack at a few local matches with it before putting a muzzle brake on it, factory trigger and no prior long range or PRS experience. Just the other day, he said he still enjoys shooting it as much as his custom 6XC.

Edit: I wanted to add that the more you get into this, you’ll learn what you want/need (as with anything else). Shoot it as-is to get a baseline of what the rifle is capable of.

 

[supercorndogs]

Its nice if you can get your feelers on a few stocks and see what site you well. I always like the more traditional look like the MCS-T. So that is what I bought first. I don't like the way the vertical grip on the T4 or EH1 looks, but it fits me much better, so I ended up switching over. Fitting the rifle to the shooter seems very undervalued in general, but it is important.

 

[pmclaine]

Made the following post this morning on a different sie but it seems to have some relevance here......


Shot the 1000 yard range at Sig Sauer back in May.

Kid beside me was using the rifle pictured below.

He was using 168 grain Sig Sauer ammo.

He had bought the rifle specifically to learn LR shooting and it was new to him that week as he went through PSR1, PSR2, and PSR3 classes.

His scope was bought new at Sig and mounted that first class he attended. It broke the afternoon before the class I was in and was new and unzeroed the morning we started.

Sig advised him about building up the comb and it doesnt look like he went nearly far enough but.......

On the 1000 yard line he was crushing steel.

So according to the experts.....his budget M700 would never be accurate due to crappy QC and a shitty stock. He would be lucky to extract/eject brass because the timing is all off on the bolt. His 168 SMKs would hit a wall at 800 yards and drop dead from the sky. None of that happened. Might even be a Caldwell bipod which should have bent on him at first recoil.

What was a bummer was the death of the Sig scope considering all the mil contracts they seem to be getting.

I always found 168s more accurate at the ranges I typically shoot but believe in the idea 175s do better beyond 600 yards.

Ive standardized all my .30 caliber to 175 SMK just so I dont have to make the small zero adjustments or have two sets of data.

Thinking I should just concern myself with whats cheaper to buy the most of.

One thing I will say is that this new gunner had it right.....he was investing in training.

 

[jcmullis2]

OP Don’t throw anything out. Always save the factory parts you might need them later. Don’t waste your time and money on blueprinting get a custom action later if you want better performance. Get a good stock/chassis like krg bravo, it’ll transfer to a custom action. Get a decent eyepiece like a Athlon Ares etr or vortex viper pst gen 2, it’ll transfer too. That’ll take care of things for now and get as much trigger time as you can. Don’t try to save buying new lesser quality stuff. Buy off the px here on the hides classified sections. Buy quality and you can always sell here and recoup most of your money. Later on if you wanna build a custom rig you’ll have most of what you need. The stuff you were gonna throw away can go back on that rifle and you can keep it, loan it, or sell it. I tend to sell my extra stuff to help buy more stuff. The biggest thing is to listen to the consensus of what people are recommending. There’s literally thousands of years of combined experience here. Good luck and welcome to club.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

Budget consideration should prioritize ammunition high on the list; we have to shoot in order to learn how to shoot. Down the road, other ammunition considerations should prompt you toward handloading.

Not throwing things out is another great observation, and should include the selling of things too. Used items will sell at depreciated prices, and be even more expensive to replace if/when a need for them arises again. We think we don't need a thing anymore, and lo; the unforeseen future simply laughs at such thinking.

Options like optics and supporting accessories may benefit from being replaced by more adequate features. But the replaced items can serve on a trainer rifle, or to aid in bringing a close companion into the activity.

Before you hit the range on a far more serious basis, be sure you're singing from the right Hymn Books. These two books are better ones than most anything else out there available.

Cleckner, and LowLight.

I've been involved in entry level Marksmanship Instruction, and I have emphasized the crawl, walk, and run method. It flies in the face of impatience and the natural desire to find shortcuts, especially ones that involve buying into some of that. There are no shortcuts, the process takes time, and jumping the gun and buying impressive implements for which no actual justifying skills exist is simply wasted money and wasted lovely equipment.

In my case, I was founded in years of youth rimfire shooting and as with many here, the need for that rimfire as never gone away. Please make certain a rimfire, and it doesn't need to be a supadupah specimen, exists in your training regimen. It's cheep to feed, and does not require long distances, maybe far away, in order to provide learning gain.

Beginners will not get their money's worth from match ammunition. That's something whose added cost is only justifiable when match shooting skills have been developed.

And finally (as well as first); learn and practice firearms handling safety. Once that primer ignites, you cannot recall the bullet.

My only Uncle lay for a week in a hospital bed in the late 1930's, comatose after an ROTC training accident, shot in the lung with a 22LR. He recovered, but was never completely up to speed after it. The training he was doing was part of a segment where he was being familiarized as a pilot for the B-17. That never came to pass.

Greg

 

[BrentBradford]

Budget consideration should prioritize ammunition high on the list; we have to shoot in order to learn how to shoot. Down the road, other ammunition considerations should prompt you toward handloading.

Not throwing things out is another great observation, and should include the selling of things too. Used items will sell at depreciated prices, and be even more expensive to replace if/when a need for them arises again. We think we don't need a thing anymore, and lo; the unforeseen future simply laughs at such thinking.

Options like optics and supporting accessories may benefit from being replaced by more adequate features. But the replaced items can serve on a trainer rifle, or to aid in bringing a close companion into the activity.

Before you hit the range on a far more serious basis, be sure you're singing from the right Hymn Books. These two books are better ones than most anything else out there available.

Cleckner, and LowLight.

I've been involved in entry level Marksmanship Instruction, and I have emphasized the crawl, walk, and run method. It flies in the face of impatience and the natural desire to find shortcuts, especially ones that involve buying into some of that. There are no shortcuts, the process takes time, and jumping the gun and buying impressive implements for which no actual justifying skills exist is simply wasted money and wasted lovely equipment.

In my case, I was founded in years of youth rimfire shooting and as with many here, the need for that rimfire as never gone away. Please make certain a rimfire, and it doesn't need to be a supadupah specimen, exists in your training regimen. It's cheep to feed, and does not require long distances, maybe far away, in order to provide learning gain.

Beginners will not get their money's worth from match ammunition. That's something whose added cost is only justifiable when match shooting skills have been developed.

And finally (as well as first); learn and practice firearms handling safety. Once that primer ignites, you cannot recall the bullet.

My only Uncle lay for a week in a hospital bed in the late 1930's, comatose after an ROTC training accident, shot in the lung with a 22LR. He recovered, but was never completely up to speed after it. The training he was doing was part of a segment where he was being familiarized as a pilot for the B-17. That never came to pass.

Greg

Thank you for the invaluable information!

I am starting to understand that I should learn to walk before I run. I should probable hold off on upgrading components right now and focus my time and money on shooting. I do feel however that a new stock is a must, the factory stock just doesn't fit me well and I have no doubt will limit my ability for tight and consistent groups.

 

[Jcrios014]

Thank you for the invaluable information!

I am starting to understand that I should learn to walk before I run. I should probable hold off on upgrading components right now and focus my time and money on shooting. I do feel however that a new stock is a must, the factory stock just doesn't fit me well and I have no doubt will limit my ability for tight and consistent groups.

Keep an eye out for deals on the PX, there's always someone selling a stock or chassis at a good price.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

My intent is to help make the process more affordable; especially in the beginning, where commitments and funds may not be so easily justifiable. As immediately above, used gear is usually a savings.

Also, in our inexperience, we could be applying unnecessary wear and other mayhem to more delicate and expensive components that really aren't associated with the beginner skills we seek. Hold off one the higher tier gunsmithing upgrades just yet, and concentrate on trigger, stock, and optic. Trigger is good for now, likely for all time.

I recommend a relatively robust Varmint rifle chambered appropriate to the shooting goals that you know you'll be pursuing.

If in doubt, the 223 is an excellent chambering for beginners, and can also serve as an offline training aid. It's also an excellent first handloading chambering.

This stock could be what you seek. I have a pair of them, inletted for the Savage short actions, on my otherwise unaltered F T/R 223 and 308.

My stocks arrived without the LOP spacers mentioned in the description. I obtained mine direct from Choate. I ended up with 4 half-inch spacers stacked on each stock due to my 16.5" LOP. This necessitated replacing the mounting screws with ones 2" longer from the local hardware; no biggie.

This stock has a sliding front sling stud that rides a block fore/aft within a metal channel inletted flush along the center of the forend bottom. It can be positioned and locked in place by tightening down the bipod mounting screw. Or, it can be slid out the front end of the slot, removed, and the stock used as a bag rider. I removed the two-sided lateral sling mounts, as they were unused and contributed significantly to overall weight.

I'm very pleased with the solidity of these stocks.

Optics can be pricey, and some 'lesser' ones can still do the job. Mueller 8-32x44. I have three of them (for years), and they are outstanding for the money. They are especially popular with rimfire precision shooters; but they have also held together fine for me all the way on up to 30-06 chamberings.

Standardized all my 30 cal to 168, accepting that at 4350ft altitude, they go a bunch further supersonic (to 1000yd? I have no current way to be sure, my distance limit so far is 300 meters) My 308 BDC scopes (308 and 6.5 Grendel rifles) are set up with a drop curve reticle that favors that load (and the 120 in the Grendel). I am redeveloping those loads nowadays, concentrating on the Speer Gold Dot 308 168 bullets, which have a more reliable terminal performance than match bullets. I also have the Speer 180gr SPBT for later development as a longer reaching load. It is these additional options that make handloading so attractive.

Greg

 

[BrentBradford]

My intent is to help make the process more affordable; especially in the beginning, where commitments and funds may not be so easily justifiable. As immediately above, used gear is usually a savings.

Also, in our inexperience, we could be applying unnecessary wear and other mayhem to more delicate and expensive components that really aren't associated with the beginner skills we seek. Hold off one the higher tier gunsmithing upgrades just yet, and concentrate on trigger, stock, and optic. Trigger is good for now, likely for all time.

I recommend a relatively robust Varmint rifle chambered appropriate to the shooting goals that you know you'll be pursuing.

If in doubt, the 223 is an excellent chambering for beginners, and can also serve as an offline training aid. It's also an excellent first handloading chambering.

This stock could be what you seek. I have a pair of them, inletted for the Savage short actions, on my otherwise unaltered F T/R 223 and 308.

My stocks arrived without the LOP spacers mentioned in the description. I obtained mine direct from Choate. I ended up with 4 half-inch spacers stacked on each stock due to my 16.5" LOP. This necessitated replacing the mounting screws with ones 2" longer from the local hardware; no biggie.

This stock has a sliding front sling stud that rides a block fore/aft within a metal channel inletted flush along the center of the forend bottom. It can be positioned and locked in place by tightening down the bipod mounting screw. Or, it can be slid out the front end of the slot, removed, and the stock used as a bag rider. I removed the two-sided lateral sling mounts, as they were unused and contributed significantly to overall weight.

I'm very pleased with the solidity of these stocks.

Optics can be pricey, and some 'lesser' ones can still do the job. Mueller 8-32x44. I have three of them (for years), and they are outstanding for the money. They are especially popular with rimfire precision shooters; but they have also held together fine for me all the way on up to 30-06 chamberings.

Standardized all my 30 cal to 168, accepting that at 4350ft altitude, they go a bunch further supersonic (to 1000yd? I have no current way to be sure, my distance limit so far is 300 meters) My 308 BDC scopes (308 and 6.5 Grendel rifles) are set up with a drop curve reticle that favors that load (and the 120 in the Grendel). I am redeveloping those loads nowadays, concentrating on the Speer Gold Dot 308 168 bullets, which have a more reliable terminal performance than match bullets. I also have the Speer 180gr SPBT for later development as a longer reaching load. It is these additional options that make handloading so attractive.

Greg

Thank you! My rifle is in 6.5 Creedmoor and I plan to leave that alone, I have heard so many great things about this caliber. I pretty much had my mind made up that I was going to be getting a Manners Stock until I came across the AG Adjustable Hunter Composite stock and I think I am now leaning in this direction. I put a 4x16 Nikon Monarch 3 scope on it from another rifle so I think for now I'm good on the glass.

 

[BrentBradford]

Update: I just pulled the trigger on a stock, I decided instead of investing $800 plus on a McMillan or AG composites stock I went with one from
HS Precision. I happy with my decision and can't wait for it to come in. I think the next upgrade I will make is a muzzle brake and would like suggestions of good but affordable brake for my 6.5 Creedmoor. Even though I don't have any plans to buy a new barrel anytime soon I am curious about what style and contour best suits long range shooting?

 

[hafejd30]

Update: I just pulled the trigger on a stock, I decided instead of investing $800 plus on a McMillan or AG composites stock I went with one from
HS Precision. I happy with my decision and can't wait for it to come in. I think the next upgrade I will make is a muzzle brake and would like suggestions of good but affordable brake for my 6.5 Creedmoor. Even though I don't have any plans to buy a new barrel anytime soon I am curious about what style and contour best suits long range shooting?

HS is a good choice. I ran a JEC brake on my 260 before going 100% suppressed. Like shooting a 22 recoil wise. Was loud as fuck tho as any good brake doing it’s job will be

 

[BuLLet]

Area 419 hellfire or APA little bastard gen 3 for brakes.

 

[b6graham]

^ this

And anything heavy palma and up. With the trend being heavier

But a medium palma or marksman work just fine too at a lighter weight

 

[Secant]

Zero reason for a beginner shooter to throw a brake in a 6.5cm IMO. Concussion/noise will develop a flinch as much as anything. A 6.5 has minimal recoil anyways, plus managing recoil is a skill you should develop.

 

[Snuby642]

May take some time to outrun your
rig .

When you think you have see if you can make friends at the range and borrow a top shelf gun and shoot a group.

That will let you know more about what you need.

I still let rso's shoot my guns when they are not busy to gauge my results against, in my case younger men some of whom compeat at a high level.

If they out shoot you have them watch close to see if they spot mistakes.

Getting a lesson ocasionaly is a way to speed up results.

 

[Secant]

Which is why so many prs shooters run a bare muzzle.... I believe the number stands at zero....Muzzle devices to their job. Even if your great at recoil management. Faster follow up etc etc.

If a 6.5 concussion causes you to flinch your in for a rude awakening when you touch off a 50....

Look at the context here: the dude is just getting into precision rifle. Suggesting he needs a brake to tame the recoil on a creedmoor is retarded on so many levels. Should he also get a 12oz trigger to avoid learning trigger control....I mean, that’s what the pros use LOL.

 

[BrentBradford]

Thanks everyone, based on the answers maybe I should hold off on getting a brake for the time being. I am more than capable of handling the recoil, I hunt with a 300 WSM without a brake. I'm still learning and was under the impression that running a brake or a suppressor was standard regardless of the caliber.

I do appreciate everyone's feedback!

 

[Snuby642]

Just a thought.
Shoot it first.

Some factory conture barrels are not fond of brakes

 

[hafejd30]

Look at the context here: the dude is just getting into precision rifle. Suggesting he needs a brake to tame the recoil on a creedmoor is retarded on so many levels. Should he also get a 12oz trigger to avoid learning trigger control....I mean, that’s what the pros use LOL.

I never suggested a brake to tame the recoil, only that the recoil was similar to a .22. OP also never stated he wanted the brake to tame the recoil.

A brake has many other uses other than just taming recoil. Controlling the muzzle for faster follow up shots being the best one in my book.

I ran a brake but never for the recoil. I also run a suppressor now. The brake controlled the muzzle flip etc better than the suppressor but the suppressor is obviously more pleasant to shoot

 

[Secant]

I never suggested a brake to tame the recoil, only that the recoil was similar to a .22. OP also never stated he wanted the brake to tame the recoil.

A brake has many other uses other than just taming recoil. Controlling the muzzle for faster follow up shots being the best one in my book.

I ran a brake but never for the recoil. I also run a suppressor now. The brake controlled the muzzle flip etc better than the suppressor but the suppressor is obviously more pleasant to shoot

No doubt that a brake helps keep the muzzle from moving much. My point is that good fundamentals will do the same thing. IMO, learn the skill, before you look to buy a device. If a shooter can’t spot shots with a bare muzzle creedmoor, than their fundamentals suck.

 

[hafejd30]

If a shooter can’t spot shots with a bare muzzle creedmoor, than their fundamentals suck.

Hands down agree with you there! Yes no special equipment can make up for good fundamentals!

 

[Steel head]

Shoot it
Possibly a chassis/stock, trigger and a nice scope in the future.

 

[BrentBradford]

Shoot it
Possibly a chassis/stock, trigger and a nice scope in the future.

I have put 60 rounds through it so far, I really like the gun, it's fun to shoot. I already had a Timney trigger set at 3.5 lbs on one of my hunting rifles so I dropped it in and just ordered a new HS Precision stock. I plan on doing a lot more shooting over the next few weeks trying to find what ammo it likes best.