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Where to start with a custom rifle build?

Quicksilver

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 3, 2013
156
1
37
College Station, TX
Well, just like the title says, I want a new rifle but don't know where to start.

I thought I would build a custom rifle from the ground up (ive always wanted to do that) but have NO idea where to start!

I know that I do want it to be a 7mm Rem Mag (love the ballistics, recoil is lighter than the 300, and I like shooting amateur benchrest and F class) and I want a bull barrel because I never just shoot 2-3 shots whenever im out with it.

I have an extra 5.5-22 NXS Nightforce scope that can stop sitting in the safe and get to work so optics are good to go.

I will be taking shots at game under 500 yards, targets at 1000 or less.

I would like a stock that's similar to the TRG42 Sako with an adjustable cheek rest if possible, no idea what action, no idea what trigger (but obviously adjustable) and a thick barrel, unknown twist, at least 26".

Any ideas? I literally don't know anything about building a rifle from NOTHING. And, I would like to keep it under 2,000 if possible (not including gunsmithing)
 
Probably should have thought of that one myself- I just didn't want to waste anybody's time unless im ordering something right then and there.... but I don't know whats good to order.... and salesmen do sell their own products...
 
Where to start with a custom rifle build?

Any ideas? I literally don't know anything about building a rifle from NOTHING. And, I would like to keep it under 2,000 if possible (not including gunsmithing)
Spend the money on training. Then you will know what you want, and how it differs from what you need.
 
If your going to do a build then start with trying to find your action. That is the hardest part to find. These are the places that I ordered my parts from.
-Southern Precision Rifles (Bugholes.com) - Actions, barrels, stocks, triggers, brakes, etc.
-Stockys (Stockysstocks.com)- I have bought three stocks from them and they are awesome! They carry McMillan, Manners, and everything else you need for stocks.

If you decide on doing a build, I would strongly suggest ordering the parts yourself and then sending them to the builder. This usually speeds up the process and eliminates any excuses about not being able to get your parts. Plus its fun! I have one rifle in the mail and another about to be started by Dana English of English Rifles. I would highly suggest him and I know Robert Gradous does frequently. Dana is really fast as well as professional. Dana is retired and builds/works on rifles around 4 days a week. He doesn't take on all projects and keeps his workload pretty light so he can focus on completing a few rifles quickly. He quoted me 4-6 weeks but said he hasn't ever gone 6 weeks on a build where all parts were supplied. I will be posting more pics of my "Hunting" rifle when it shows up tomorrow or Thursday. GA Precision, Surgeon or someone else could build you a rifle from scratch but after going through shopping, ordering the parts I wanted and sending them off to be put together quickly (alot faster than most builders could do), I doubt I will ever order a rifle from a builder. Here two pics of my rifle at Dana's place in Florida. As you can see, the shop looks very clean and organized...and that rifle is sexy as hell too...and checks in under 11 lbs as pictured.
 

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Buy the brass first. Measure it so you know what size neck you want on the reamer. Pick a bullet so you can then select the freebore on the reamer and the right twist on the barrel. Once you have your reamer nailed down, buy all the parts and send them off to the smith(s). Not much to it.
 
You definitely came to the right place! I diligently read and fired as many customs as possible for 2 yrs before my 1st custom rifle.
Purchased every part from HIDE vendors and HIDE classifieds before picking a top notch smith to build it. Very satisfying feeling having your first custom rifle built by a true craftsman just for you! Thanks Adam and Robert!
 
Okay, so after talking to one of the guys over at Burdett and Sons, I need to start by finding the action-

I was recommended to stay with the Remington 700 action due to parts availability and popularity- I just need to find a long magnum action-

I do have a question regarding the 7mm caliber- I was trending toward the 7mm Rem Mag (necked down 300, same belted case) but was told the 7mm WSM was far better and more efficient- so, what is the best 7mm cartridge available (please, no crazy wildcats that I can't find brass for) that I can reload? Im not hoping for a lazer beam but would like something capable of what I talked about in the first post.

After I find my action, I need to get a barrel blank, a stock and then drop them off with a builder to have the chamber cut and mated to the action, then bed the stock. Im probably going to keep a small contour on the barrel but have the muzzle end around .800 to 1.000 thick. I shoot too much to have a thinner barrel that might overheat. I realize I will only get 1000-1500 shots out of the barrel before it is washed out, and that's okay.
 
Checkout this page for TONS of good info on 7mm chamberings.

7mm Cartridge Guide

Sometimes the more you know the worse the indecision gets!

If you are polling the audience, I'd build a 7WSM or 7SAUM. Just know that Mag bolt face short actions can be difficult to find at times but Southern Precision Rifles does have some Stillers in stock right now...

I understand the urge to build a rifle, it is fun, and I did so myself.

But I know that Graham and the old heads here are correct. Buy an off the shelf Savage or Remington, put it in an appropriate stock, and spend the rest on learning how to really shoot.

I wish I would have taken that advice, but one thing is for certain for me, now that I have my rifle, I feel like I am letting it down each time I fudge a shot, which is often. The rifle itself motivates me to learn how to operate it properly. And it has helped build my desire to really learn how to shoot and I will hopefully be able to find the time/$$ in the spring, after my first born arrives in Dec, to head south to Rifles Only and get some quality instruction.

Enjoy the process if you do build one, I sure did, but like I said, you'd be amazed what guys with real knowledge of this craft can do with the guns you have sitting in the closet that you bought off the shelf.
 
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Pick the 7mm bullet you want and build the rifle around that. This will most likely dictate what twist you will use and how much freebore you will need. Pick your bullet first then your barrel. Action stock and triggers at the highest levels all preform well just try to handle some before you buy.
 
Russell Banks at Scout Supply Company did my first one. I'm sure I knew less than you did when I started. He's walked me through everything and helped me understand different options. But I really learned the most right here on the Hide. Once I got started on the build, I started learning more on this website, and then wanted to change some things here and there. I'd suggest talking to Russell, get a preliminary game plan on how you think you'll configure it, and then start researching everything. Don't start building it yet though, because you'll surely want to change something.

Graham actually gave you the best advice, and I do wish I would've done that first....but I also realize how bad the bug can bite!

Scout Supply Company LLC
La Grange, TX
979-242-2855
FFL 007/SOT
[email protected]
 
my suggestion is to figure out what cartridge you want to shoot. Then what bullet you want to push and that will give you an idea of twist rate you want to run. I'd order the pieces that take the longest first. right out of the gate. Barrels seem to be in that 6-9mo mark right now from what I've been hearing. Then your action. Then when you have all that on the grocery list then order your stock so you can tell the stock maker to inlet the stock for x action, y barrel and z bottom . I did a lot of research before I finalized my grocery list on the last build.

What you're going to need;
x barrel
x action
x stock
x bottom metal
x recoil lug -unless it comes with the action.
x finish reamer and go gauge if the gun smith doesn't have it on hand.
x brass, bullets, etc
x dies
-scope you have
x rings/rail
x sling
x bipod

order it and wait for it all to come in and give it to the smith of your choice. depending on wait time it could take up to a year to get it back. When i had the last rifle for work built, I worked around the action as my center piece.

That's about it.

xdeano

edit: I forgot about paint. barrel fluted or not is also an option.
 
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xdeano, that's a good list. You're going to need a trigger too.

I'm not sure how significance the difference would be in this, and someone with more experience can chime in, but I don't think you should have to wait 6 to 9 months for a barrel unless you want something that's out of the ordinary. You can order barrels from Grizzly.com or Southern Precision Rifles (bugholes.com) and a few other places I'm sure, and they have quite a bit in stock. Somebody mentioned earlier that Kreiger has barrels in stock. The only reason I can think of for getting it from the manufacturer is the price may be a little better and it can be fully customized, but there may be more to that.

+1 on Stockys for the stock, and if you're going with a Rem 700 footprint based action, then you should be able to find one in stock somewhere. On that note, you don't necessarily have to stay with an actual Rem 700 action. There are others that have the Rem 700 footprint, and that's what there are a lot of parts (stocks, bottom metal, etc) for. It'll give you lots of options for sure. I know Stiller actions have the Rem 700 footprint, and they're probably one of the least expensive of the custom actions. A couple months ago you could get a Rem 700 action, blued, from Brownells for $450'ish and it came with a bolt. But you have to buy recoil lug and rail. A Stiller comes with both of those. Little things like that you'll need to keep in mind. Also, your magnum bolt face will probably cost more and be harder to find as previously mentioned. I started off wanting a 300 Win Mag, but Russell steered me towards the 300 WSM, one of the reasons being the short action gives you more options in the future should you decide to have it re-barreled and chambered for a different cartridge.

You threw out a $2000 budget number (not including gunsmithing), and that's a little thin for a true custom rifle, but it can definitely be done. That being said, be sure to check the "Options and Accessories" board in the classified forum religiously for the things you know you'll want. You can always get the stock painted the way you want, and your gunsmith can do any additional inletting for action, barrel, trigger should the need arise on a used stock or chassis. Triggers pop up on there periodically. I'm currently in love with Huber triggers, but I see Jewell, Timney, and old style Rem 700 triggers appear, but stuff usually goes pretty fast there. You could get every single part you're going to need for under a total of $2,000 from that board, except the action which you can get from the Firearms for sale board.

Someone else mentioned calling GAP or somebody like that to ask questions, and you said: "Probably should have thought of that one myself- I just didn't want to waste anybody's time unless im ordering something right then and there.... but I don't know whats good to order.... and salesmen do sell their own products..."
Most gunsmiths are simply assembling parts from other people. Really, the most important thing they're doing is cutting the chamber (somebody correct me if I'm wrong). Of course, it's important that they put the rest of the parts together correctly, but the chamber is what you're paying for. So you wouldn't have to be too overly concerned about them only suggesting "their" parts. I could be wrong on that, but at least the ones I've dealt with didn't give me that impression at all. And for most of them, it is part of their service. Mind you, there are those that would prefer not to deal with a guy that's getting his first custom made and doesn't know what he wants yet. I'm pretty sure they would let you know that though.

Be sure to wear out the search function on the Bolt Action Rifles board too. You'll find a ton of information, and you can start to educate yourself. Once you've learned a little, then start a thread about your specific question. Just be sure to be specific, and make it very obvious that you've already done searches and researched prior to starting your thread, and you'll get the most favorable responses (in my experience at least). Everybody here loves to talk about guns and give their opinion. Soak as much of it in before you start making any final decisions. You'll be glad you did.
 
Well, just like the title says, I want a new rifle but don't know where to start.

I thought I would build a custom rifle from the ground up (ive always wanted to do that) but have NO idea where to start!

I know that I do want it to be a 7mm Rem Mag (love the ballistics, recoil is lighter than the 300, and I like shooting amateur benchrest and F class) and I want a bull barrel because I never just shoot 2-3 shots whenever im out with it.

I have an extra 5.5-22 NXS Nightforce scope that can stop sitting in the safe and get to work so optics are good to go.

I will be taking shots at game under 500 yards, targets at 1000 or less.

I would like a stock that's similar to the TRG42 Sako with an adjustable cheek rest if possible, no idea what action, no idea what trigger (but obviously adjustable) and a thick barrel, unknown twist, at least 26".

Any ideas? I literally don't know anything about building a rifle from NOTHING. And, I would like to keep it under 2,000 if possible (not including gunsmithing)



Sounds like you want this rifle to do double-duty ...both competition and hunting. Here is one place where you are going to have to decide where you are going to compromise. You are saying that you want to have a heavy/thick bull barrel... which will lend itself nicely to the benchrest shooting that you enjoy, but its going to suck for hunting. Trust me on this one; I'm speaking from experience. If you are just going to set up in a stand or whatever for your hunts, it won't be too bad, but if you're going to hump that rifle around... or if you need to take a snap shot while you're flushing game out of the brush... that heavy barrel is going to get old real fast.

I decided it would be fun to take my tactical rifle out for deer season this year and go for some long shots... 24" barrel with an MTU contour on a sniper fill stock... never gonna do that again.

I'm sure there are a lot of folks on here who could offer some good suggestions/advice on this topic... but my suggestion is to figure out what you want this rifle to do primarily and build to that purpose. Then, someday down the road, you can always build another rifle to fill the other purpose.

If you want one rifle to do it all... figure out what's most important to you and find the appropriate middle ground. Sticking with a more modest contour and a lighter stock can still give you good accuracy for long range target shooting and not be completely miserable for hunting/stalking.

Bottom line... the best place to start, when designing your rifle, is to decide what you want it to do... then let the purpose dictate the design and the details.

I can't remember the quote exactly, but Einstein said something to the effects of, "If the world were coming to an end and I had one hour to come up with a solution to save it, I would spend 59 minutes defining the problem and one minute solving it." There is some real wisdom in that quote... the better you understand your problem, the easier it will be to devise a solution.

So, do your best to figure out what is most important to you in terms of purpose and performance for your new rifle... let the folks on the site know what you want this rifle to do... and there are some real smart people on here who will give you some excellent solutions to your problem.

Good luck
 
I think a 7RM is a decent choice for what you want to do. You already have a good scope. Start there. You can get a sendero or a trued 700 action and 7mm barrel relatively quickly and then upgrade from there. That should get you shooting quickly. If you're going to be hunting a lot be careful not to end up with a 20 lb monster... for that keep it light and get a muzzle brake. A sendero/light varmint contour is a good way to go.
 
+1 to squid284, I did the same route ordered a .300wm sendaro from buds gun shop and started there. Trigger and brake came after the first time out. After about 2 years ive got 600rds thru it and decided to build. I have a barrel on order and I will do accurizing when I have the barrel changed out. Reloading has a way of getting a little more accuracy out of a stock rifle plus you get to learn a lot before spending the big bucks on a custom rig. I personally like the HS precision stock that came with it so I will probably keep it and have it bedded with the new barrel. I do use the heavier bullets all 200 + grainers and like the way they buck the wind as I have not yet mastered the wind.
 
Well I finally decided since im spending the money, why not go with a .338 lapua? I can finally get out to the longer ranges (I need to push myself out there anyway) and its still good enough for hunting, but also works for F class shooting- I'll leave the benchrest stuff to the .308 and just work it out less in F class. I've thought about building a heavy 6 dasher rig (maybe, but lets be honest- were talking 6K plus! and, my scope isn't really for benchrest work anyway)

As I understand it, you can use a Remington 700 long action w/ any magnum bolt face (which has to be opened up) and switched to a Sako type extractor but it does and will work. Still undecided on stock yet. Talking barrels now- thinking maybe a 10:1 twist? I would like to shoot 250-300gr bullets, but might also use a 215gr gameking sierra bullet.
 
Well if you're considering a 338 lapua, I would sure give the 338 NORMA mag a good look at. Or a 300-338 NORMA mag. Push the 285 HORNADY or 300 bergers at around 2800 fps. Just a suggestion take it.for what it is.
Xdeano
 
If you're going to spend that kind of money why not build a .338 Edge?! That's what I'm building. You can get good brass for it already head stamped .338 Edge and already sized from Shawn carlock at defensive edge. He has the die set also. This is what I'm building. It outperforms the lapua significantly but also has about a 300-500 round shorter barrel life due to the higher velocities and chamber pressure. Will shoot a 300gr Sierra matchking 100-150fps faster than a lapua generally. Read up on it! It's a great platform and you can use a standard remmy 700 L/A with standard magnum bolt face because the case head is the same size as a .300RUM which is the same as the belted win mags! My build is wearing a used .338 win mag action I pulled from one of my hunting rifles, a rock creek 9.4:1 5R stainless cut rifled barrel with a 30" finished length with seekins dbm setup for the extra long lapua and ultra mag setups and was originally going to wear a B&C A-5 but after ordering the B&C and texturing it with marine-tex and reshaping the forend I've came to the realization you pay for what you get. Thinking about finishing up the custom work on the stock and selling it and biting the bullet and getting a manners or McMillan! Hope this helps!
 
If you're going to spend that kind of money why not build a .338 Edge?! That's what I'm building. You can get good brass for it already head stamped .338 Edge and already sized from Shawn carlock at defensive edge. He has the die set also. This is what I'm building. It outperforms the lapua significantly but also has about a 300-500 round shorter barrel life due to the higher velocities and chamber pressure. Will shoot a 300gr Sierra matchking 100-150fps faster than a lapua generally. Read up on it! It's a great platform and you can use a standard remmy 700 L/A with standard magnum bolt face because the case head is the same size as a .300RUM which is the same as the belted win mags! My build is wearing a used .338 win mag action I pulled from one of my hunting rifles, a rock creek 9.4:1 5R stainless cut rifled barrel with a 30" finished length with seekins dbm setup for the extra long lapua and ultra mag setups and was originally going to wear a B&C A-5 but after ordering the B&C and texturing it with marine-tex and reshaping the forend I've came to the realization you pay for what you get. Thinking about finishing up the custom work on the stock and selling it and biting the bullet and getting a manners or McMillan! Hope this helps!
 
I think starting with caliber selection makes more sense than anything else. Why start with an action if you don't know if you're going to need a long or short, a standard or mag bolt face?

Selecting the caliber starts with laying out a set of performance characteristics based on the criteria you have in mind.

Once you have those performance requirements set you can look at the calibers that fit inside that box.

Then you get to decide if you want a certain version of 7WSM, 7/300WSM, 7SAUM, 300WSM, 300Win Mag, etc.

Or perhaps a 280 Rem or 284? Those are certainly capable and won't burn as much powder or a barrel as quickly.

After the caliber is set, you're next step is to decide the manufacturer of the action you require. Parallel path to that is to order the barrel. If your action will have an integral scope rail, then understanding the inclination machined into the rail so that you're not wasting space under your zero nor are you stuck with an extended range zero due to inappropriate inclination specs.

Once you have the barreled action laid out, it's time to decide the bottom metal, and FINALLY the stock because those previous things will dictate the inlet required for the barreled action and the bottom metal.
 
I would begin by defining the application this rifle will fulfill. I would then define the energy requirements the chambering needs to provide. I would then select a projectile that delivers that energy in the most effective, yet tolerable, manner; the lightest weight that provides both terminal energy and BC. The chambering would be based on driving the bullet at a speed that assures a supersonic arrival at target distance while doing the least harm to the throat of the barrel (meaning, it is wiser to download a larger capacity than to upload a smaller one). Barrel twist according to projectile needs and muzzle velocity, and bore length that allows the minimum chamber pressure needed to achieve the necessary muzzle velocity. Barrel contour which offers the best compromise between portability and barrel heat management.

Action choice would be based on simplicity, integrity, and maintainability.

Stock choice would be based on ergo compatibility, integrity, means of support, weight, and balance.

More to the process, but this would be my preferred good start.

Greg
 
Greg seems smarter and smarter with every post of his that I read!

I'm not sure what your experience is in the long range/precision/"sniping"/whatever you want to call it arena, but I'm guessing if you've never had a custom rifle built, your experience may be on the more limited side. If so, I don't recommend starting off with a 338 Lapua. That's a helluva lot of rifle. Way more than what you'll need to hunt anything on this continent, except maybe grizzly bear or moose, and even then not completely necessary. Plus, based on things I've read (there's a good thread now titled "My 338 Lapua Nightmare"), there is a lot more that goes into building a 338 Lapua than there is a more common cartridge (at least that's what I've inferred). Many more decisions to be made on very small details that you likely wouldn't understand at this point in the game. Not to say you couldn't learn as you go, but it seems like, to me at least, a 338 Lapua build is something you do when you already know exactly what you're looking for and not learning along the way. Plus, you don't need a 338 Lapua just to get out to 1000 yards. There's a multitude of other cartridges that can get you there and don't cost $3.00 to $6.00 per round to shoot. Not trying to rain on your parade, but you may really want to give all of that some consideration.

I have a 338 Lapua, and it's more rifle than I really "need" at this point. If the rifle aftermarket was a little stronger right now, I'd probably sell it and use the money to load up my 6.5 x 47 Lapua and .308.
 
Greg seems smarter and smarter with every post of his that I read!

I'm not sure what your experience is in the long range/precision/"sniping"/whatever you want to call it arena, but I'm guessing if you've never had a custom rifle built, your experience may be on the more limited side. If so, I don't recommend starting off with a 338 Lapua. That's a helluva lot of rifle. Way more than what you'll need to hunt anything on this continent, except maybe grizzly bear or moose, and even then not completely necessary. Plus, based on things I've read (there's a good thread now titled "My 338 Lapua Nightmare"), there is a lot more that goes into building a 338 Lapua than there is a more common cartridge (at least that's what I've inferred). Many more decisions to be made on very small details that you likely wouldn't understand at this point in the game. Not to say you couldn't learn as you go, but it seems like, to me at least, a 338 Lapua build is something you do when you already know exactly what you're looking for and not learning along the way. Plus, you don't need a 338 Lapua just to get out to 1000 yards. There's a multitude of other cartridges that can get you there and don't cost $3.00 to $6.00 per round to shoot. Not trying to rain on your parade, but you may really want to give all of that some consideration.

I have a 338 Lapua, and it's more rifle than I really "need" at this point. If the rifle aftermarket was a little stronger right now, I'd probably sell it and use the money to load up my 6.5 x 47 Lapua and .308.

You hit the nail on the head. I finally made a last decision on the caliber, because I had to just be realistic about what I wanted to do with the rifle.

I want to use it in F-class open competitions, which has a weight limit of 22lbs... well I was planning on using a #9 barrel (yes, insanely thick) with fluting work of course... but realized that 1. Its too heavy. 2. I'll hardly ever shoot it. 3. Competing with it will be outrageously expensive. 4. Recoil will tire me out fast. 5. It will end up like a lot of .338 rifles that get maybe 50 rounds through them and spend 99% of their life living in a low humidity dark steel box.

I decided to just stick with the 7mm Rem Mag cartridge- although I keep reading about Ackley Improved but have no idea what that is. I can use a much lighter barrel (to meet weight restrictions and then some) and still lug it around for hunting, and shooting competitions won't leave me broke at the end of the day. After looking at bullet/powder/brass cost, I can shoot more than TWICE the amount of 7mm ammo for every trigger pull of .338

Its sad, because I REALLY want a .338.... but I think maybe I'll build one after I learn from this build in a couple of years.
 
Based on experience, I can say you made a good decision. Anytime you want to make the drive down Hwy 6 and 290 to Houston, you're welcome to shoot mine until your shoulder falls off! I'm a member at Bayou Rifles and our range goes out to 1000. I just got my 338 back from GAP. It now has a Huber trigger, and I now know how to reload. So I should have it driving nails in no time. I'm eager to stretch it out to 1000. I've never shot that far before, but I have rang steel at 600 with it. I'm always looking for somebody to go out to the range with.

Are you an Aggie?
 
I'm class of '00.

I don't know a whole lot about the TAC21 chassis, but I do know I really like my AICS 1.5's. I prefer an actual pistol grip, so I put the Victor Viperskins on, and there's even a ridge on which to rest your thumb. You can typically find a used AICS 1.5 on the Options and Accessories board in the $700 - $750 range, and then the Viperskins are approx $200 more with tax. I used to have a JP Enterprises AMCS that has the Magpul PRS. I'm a big fan of the PRS due to it's adjustability. However, I think a bolt rifle, especially 7mm, should have something more than an AR-15 buttstock. That all boils down to personal preference though. But I prefer the AICS to the JP AMCS for whatever the reason. May be something to think about based on your budgetary requirements.
 
bluto77- do you say that because the AR15 style stock is very unforgiving in the recoil department? or do you just dislike the ergonomics of that setup?

Personally, I love the stock that comes on the TRG42 Sako- with an adjustable cheek riser and butt pad, I would just get that setup and bed the stock. I really do like the look of that TAC21 chassis setup though...

Also, im killing this thread and starting a new one that's oriented toward barrel/part selection for the 7RM.
 
1) Determine use(s) for this rifle.
2) Figure out how the rifle is actually utilized in pursuit of its purpose. Graham's suggestion of obtaining some training will go a long ways towards figuring this out; so will actually using an existing rifle. Both kinda point one towards the idea of picking up something run-of-the-mill in a commonly-available caliber, buying a lot of ammunition, and spending a lot of time shooting the rifle in a variety of ways.
3) Only after you have a good answer to #1 and #2, pick a cartridge that fits the purpose. This will probably also establish a workable range of barrel lengths.
4) Determine what ergonomics are going to satisfy the intended usage. I'd rather build a rifle around a specific stock than a particular action (although custom stock manufacturers can accommodate almost any reasonable request).
5) Select components accordingly.