Which .308 dies?

[Randoman5]

I'm getting started in reloading for the first time. I ordered a Lee Challenger kit and bullet puller and I think the only other thing I need besides components are dies. I'm a little confused about dies so I'd appreciate it if someone could answer a few questions.

1. What's the best value in dies? There are lots of brands out there.

2. Which dies do I need? I know I need a sizing die and a seating die. I see full length seating dies and from what I understand these can also be used to "bump size" brass. But, I also see dies specifically for bump sizing or neck sizing.

I see seating dies with and without micrometers. Are these necessary?

Are less expensive non-match dies going to yield less accurate ammunition?

I'm sure most of you have gone through lots of different dies, but if you could start over again at the beginning what would you buy?

 

[Chris@InterstateGuns]

I like a forster micrometer for my seating die and a redding bussing die for my resizer.

 

[Clark]

Other than getting rid of the expander ball in the sizing step, dies have little effect on accuracy.
The world's cheapest dies and the world's cheapest 308 bolt action on a windless day will have 10X the accuracy of the world's most expensive dies and rifle on an average wind day [7.4 mph USA average].

I hand load 58 cartridges and have ~ 75 die sets.

Each time I get a new bottle necked cartridge I typically buy:
1) solid pilot reamer non custom
2) Forster utlra seater [then chamfer the chamfer on the seating stem mouth, as no amount of complaining for 12 years has affected Forster]
3) Forster sizer [take out the expander ball and decapping stem. Have Forster hone out the neck to .002" smaller than my loaded necks]
4) Lee collet neck die [and then polish the a) collet b) collar c) mandrel/ decapping pin. Although Lee seems to be getting much better at this]
5) A lifetime supply of Lapua brass if avail, if not Win, if not RP, if not.. anything I can find
6) A lifetime supply of Nosler ballistic tip bullets

If my dies were taken from me, and I had to use the cheapest dies money will buy, the Lee RGB set, no one could tell the difference in the groups on my targets. The difference would be down in the noise caused by wind.

 

[ArmyJerry]

I been using Lee Dies but have just started using the Forster micrometer seater die for load development. The Lees I have been using for 30 years have been good to me, only started looking at the Forster because I changed my method of load development. I bought a Lee hand press, once I find a node for the particular round, shooting 15 off lands I load next 100 up at the max COAL to the lands, using the LNL tool to measure, then I go to the range and shoot a series of 5 shot groups notching the COAL down 2 thou at a time until I find optimal COAL.

Another die I have and use is the RCBS SB X die for sizing LC once fired brass for my AR's and M1A. I do like Lee dies though.

 

[Deleted member 10043]

I shoot a lot of .308 and I still use my first dies. In fact, my only .308 dies. Lee. I use the FL die and the bullet seat die. I use the Lee case length gauge for trimming tool but I replace the steel handle with the round wood-like one. I use the Lee three jaw chuck to hold the case on a battery drill. That knocks them right down to spec size and wipe with rag with chuck running. I use a Lee single stage press. I can prep a case of brass pretty quick like this. For brass full sizing I use Quarter coin size dab of Alberto VO5 hair dressing in a mixture of 90% rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle (just spray a case of brass in a container and mix up with your hand). The alcohol evaporates and leaves the conditioner on the brass. It smells like a barber shop but this shit works good. Better than the Lee lubrication. I use the Lee pocket primer hole cleaner by hand.


EDIT: I loosen the cap on the spray bottle and heat the mixture in the microwave about 20 seconds to get best results with spraying. I just need to spray the top layers of brass and mix with my hand to get all 200 cases wet. One small spray bottle mixture lasts a long time or until the alcohol evaporates from the bottle from leaving the cap loose as a result of forgetting. A little bit goes a long way. But that VO5 is cheap.

New brass is going to need the primer hole trimmed/deburred. There are tools for that and it only needs to be done once for the life of the brass.

My advice is to stay away from neck sizing. Been there and done that. Not good in the long run.

The only other dies I have experience with are Hornday for the .300 H&H. I like these dies.

 

[lightman]

You have not said anything about the rifle that you will be loading for, or what you expect for it to do. For a beginner, I recommend a 2 die full length set in whatever brand that you like. After you learn the process and get comfortable with it, you can try neck dies, bushing dies, collet dies or custom dies. Brand wise, theres probably no wrong answer for a 2 die set. Lightman

 

[Perazziboy]

+1 to Lightman....2 die set from Redding is a great way to start (FL sizer and seater). I have been using this for years with great results and they are relatively in-expensive. No
need for the expense of micrometers or other fluff like that. A third die to consider is a small based resize die if you are shooting military surplus. If brass from a machine gun, the
chambers are larger and will need that small base die. Run through FL resizer THEN the SB die. Take your time and be safe. Good luck, Mike

 

[gewehr]

I like a forster micrometer for my seating die and a redding bussing die for my resizer.

Can't go wrong with that setup, though you may consider getting a neck sizer bushing die too, neck size the first 2 firings or so then bump the shoulder back .002 from there from then on and your golden

 

[Down South]

I full length size everytime with a Redding type S bushing die and bump the shoulder .0015-.002......I used to just neck size with a redding die and bump the should back with a body die when the rounds got hard to chamber but after testing the FL sized (everytime) rounds are just as accurate and are always easy to chamber.......I use a Wilson seater die with arbor press now but used a redding competition seater for a long time with good results.......I use a Forester Co-Ax press.

 

[Pinecone]

You want a full length sizing die. A neck size die will not bump the shoulder back.

The bushing dies allow you to customize the die to precisely size the next without having to expand it back.

The micrometer seating dies are nice if you change easting depth, as you can make repeatable adjustments. But if you are going to work up a load and load just that length, you are paying for a utility that you will not use much.

Of course, you can also buy better dies to start with and not have to upgrade later.

But to get started, any of the major brands will be fine. Lyman, RCBS, Redding, Hornady, Lee, etc.

At the higher end, I like Whidden dies. Full length sizer with bushing, and micrometer seating.

 

[Randoman5]

Thanks guys. I think I'm going to start off with a basic set. I've got a factory Remington 700 Varmint and know the lands will be out of reach so the micrometer probably won't help me anyway.

Just out of curiosity could someone explain the bushing die thing a little further? I suppose not having tried this before this stuff will become apparent once I begin.

I will be very careful.

 

[lightman]

Starting with a basic set is a good choice. Bushing dies use a interchangeable bushing to size the case neck, vs the fixed neck part of a sizing die. They can be either neck sizing dies or full length dies with a bushing. There is a learning curve with bushing dies. You have to do some simple measuring and basic math, and you need a caliper or micrometer. Bushing dies are ok, but I recommend learning the basics before getting too advanced. Not that it can't be learned, just advising to start simple and move on slowly. If you choose to upgrade later, your tools will hold their value pretty well, so you are not looking at a huge loss. Hope this helps, Lightman