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White cerokote to reflect the sun

Jmkjr87

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Aug 13, 2019
    886
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    I got a chamber cert which comes with cerokote job. I shoot prs and some times you gotta leave your gun sitting in the sun. Has anybody tried a white cerokote on the barrel and seen any reduction in temperature leaving it in the sun? A black car feels hotter in the sun then a white car but by how much I dunno
     
    Black absorbs all wavelengths of light and white reflects all wavelengths so it should make a difference as far as temperature of the sun, but who knows how much.
     
    Black absorbs all wavelengths of light and white reflects all wavelengths so it should make a difference as far as temperature of the sun, but who knows how much.
    Right If anybody has tested this I'd like to hear about it
     
    I should think silver is pretty close to white. A bare stainless gets less hot than a black barrel sitting in the sun. (Or doesn't heat up as quick)

    My suggestion would be to paint it white with a couple accent chevrons on it for the stormtrooper look and juxtapose the stereotype of storm troopers poor marksmanship!
     
    I think painting the whole rig stormtrooper white woukd be an awesome idea...that way when you miss, you have an excuse already.

    In reality, a white barrel will probably be a bit cooler if it bakes in the sun for hours, but red or green fence posts will still be too hot for my hand to hold onto longer than a few seconds if they're in 100* weather and direct sunlight too.

    A naked stainless barrel in 100* heat is no different either.
     
    If white coating was the solution to something I think some desert-based military rifles would have adopted it by now.

    -Stan
    I'm sure it's because white is a stand out color saying "Shoot here" and tan is cool enough and blends with the environment. Bro...

    On a one way range playing a marksmanship game, the shit could be pink, white, yellow, traffic safety yellow. LOL
     
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    I'm sure it's because white is a stand out color saying "Shoot here" and tan is cool enough and blends with the environment. Bro...

    On a one way range playing a marksmanship game, the shit could be pink, white, yellow, traffic safety yellow. LOL

    I would think that a black rifle against a sandy desert would stand out more than a white rifle against a sandy desert, but I am red-green color deficient so I could be wrong.

    That being said, if not adoption, I submit at least experimentation would have occurred, which I would love to be aware of if it did in fact happen.

    I am also thinking about the “Pinkies” of World War II but that is likely a separate discussion.

    -Stan
     
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    Any coating will insulate the barrel, both from the inside (trapping heat in) and outside air temps. With solar (radiant) heating, white will reflect more heat than black, but not as much as bare metal. If you want a coated barrel, lighter color would be better. If you want optimal cooling and minimal solar heating, no (typical) coating is best.
     
    All the Western ranchers, cowboys, & country folk with all their white trucks prolly figured out some thermodynamics shit a while back. :ROFLMAO:
     
    If sun is the only heat source, white would lessen it. But I’m pretty sure the automotive world has found that black is better for shedding heat from within, or I could completely be making that up, who knows.
     
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    I'm wondering if the cerokote would cause a insulating effect and keep it from cooling as quick if it were in the shade or something. I have a ghost grey ACC chassis so the white barrel would prolly look fine
     
    Throw an old towel over it instead of letting it bake in the sun and then you won’t have to have a silly looking rifle. Your welcome.
    Old shitty towel and a sports bottle with water.

    Drape it over the barrel and give it a squirt

    If it’s hot the towel always dries out so your not having a soggy wet towel and you take a sip of water and stay hydrated at the same time.

    Done it a million times at the range
     
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    I'm wondering if the cerokote would cause a insulating effect and keep it from cooling as quick if it were in the shade or something. I have a ghost grey ACC chassis so the white barrel would prolly look fine
    If done to spec, Cerakote is so nano thin it doesn't trap heat. If you don't do white, Tungsten metallic is a sweet look and low heat draw.
     
    If done to spec, Cerakote is so nano thin it doesn't trap heat. If you don't do white, Tungsten metallic is a sweet look and low heat draw.
    Hmm thank you for the info, tungsten metallic does look cool with the color of my chassis
     
    Some guys call it ghost gay but I think it looks cool
     
    So, now I need to sit both type barrels in the Sun and temp check them. The heat of the Sun might be a non-factor considering the temps generated by firing.
     
    So now the question is:
    Is the change in POI for a cold-bore shot negated by allowing the rifle to soak up the sun and already be normalized and up to temp?
     
    So now the question is:
    Is the change in POI for a cold-bore shot negated by allowing the rifle to soak up the sun and already be normalized and up to temp?
    I observe heat/Cold Bore matters not on a thicker barrel profile anyway. It's the Clean Bore shot(s) that make the first few go wonky. Since I started doing the graphite neck lube patch through the bores after cleaning, the initial shots hit where the 10-15th hit. If heat were the cause, none of those rounds would still hit same POI.
     
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    I observe heat/Cold Bore matters not on a thicker barrel profile anyway. It's the Clean Bore shot(s) that make the first few go wonky. Since I started doing the graphite neck lube patch through the bores after cleaning, the initial shots hit where the 10-15th hit. If heat were the cause, none of those rounds would still hit same POI.
    I've found the same. After I clean with isso is when POI changes. I used lock ease and I still have to fire atleast 10 rounds to get it back to normal. I've had situations at matchs where there is no shade and I didn't have a extra towel or anything to keep the barrel in the shade and that's where maybe a white barrel might help. It's how much is the question.
     
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    This is why you see so many white cars in Florida
     
    I've found the same. After I clean with isso is when POI changes. I used lock ease and I still have to fire atleast 10 rounds to get it back to normal. I've had situations at matchs where there is no shade and I didn't have a extra towel or anything to keep the barrel in the shade and that's where maybe a white barrel might help. It's how much is the question.
    So, that lock-eaze stays wet. So, I moved to dry ass neck lube. That has been the ticket.
     
    High polished chrome like the bumper of a '52 Mercury. :cool:


    Though a can of white Krylon would probably be a cheaper test.
     
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    Because you never know for sure unless you've seen the results first hand.
    Correct but I don't need to jump off a bridge to test the results either, I can take multiple accounts of what happened and trust em if they are all saying the same thing
     
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    Correct but I don't need to jump off a bridge to test the results either, I can take multiple accounts of what happened and trust em if they are all saying the same thing
    Correct. If we want to follow some of the tenants of the "Scientific Method" Doing research on previous testing comes second to the Hypothesis. The pre-established data can direct the testing, as in, "No Point Reinventing the Wheel". If enough data all showing the same results is agreed upon by the scientific community, then it becomes a "Theory".

    So, in essence, one doesn't have to repeat the same tests to get a rational conclusion of the hypothesis and would only commence testing to add to the collective results. You aren't about that, and lots of us are not, so I find it only rational you'd ask before doing. Now, I personally would like to see you do the white Star Wars thing! :ROFLMAO:
     
    Correct. If we want to follow some of the tenants of the "Scientific Method" Doing research on previous testing comes second to the Hypothesis. The pre-established data can direct the testing, as in, "No Point Reinventing the Wheel". If enough data all showing the same results is agreed upon by the scientific community, then it becomes a "Theory".

    So, in essence, one doesn't have to repeat the same tests to get a rational conclusion of the hypothesis and would only commence testing to add to the collective results. You aren't about that, and lots of us are not, so I find it only rational you'd ask before doing. Now, I personally would like to see you do the white Star Wars thing! :ROFLMAO:
    I think I'm gonna do it
     
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    It will 100% make a difference. I deployed to the middle east multiple times flying tankers and our maintenance team repainted some of the control surfaces white IOT keep their temperatures lower. I love the storm trooper comparison!
     
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    It will 100% make a difference. I deployed to the middle east multiple times flying tankers and our maintenance team repainted some of the control surfaces white IOT keep their temperatures lower. I love the storm trooper comparison!
    Thank you for the input. I think every little bit has got to help
     
    I'm wondering if the cerokote would cause a insulating effect and keep it from cooling as quick if it were in the shade or something. I have a ghost grey ACC chassis so the white barrel would prolly look fine

    Reflectivity is a function of smoothness in a surface. The more diffuse (rough, even at microscopic levels) a surface is, the more it will scatter and potentially absorb light. So if you want to maximize reflectivity you should not only use a light colored finish, but also make it mirror smooth. And therein lies the rub: most quality finishing products require some diffuseness to the surface for the finish to properly mate. This is why surfaces are normally sandblasted before applying finishes.
     
    Reflectivity is a function of smoothness in a surface. The more diffuse (rough, even at microscopic levels) a surface is, the more it will scatter and potentially absorb light. So if you want to maximize reflectivity you should not only use a light colored finish, but also make it mirror smooth. And therein lies the rub: most quality finishing products require some diffuseness to the surface for the finish to properly mate. This is why surfaces are normally sandblasted before applying finishes.
    Are you saying a highly polished stainless barrel would reflect more heat than a blasted white cerakoted barrel?