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Who has upgraded their 10/22?

The most I would do to your Granddad's 10/22 is send to Randy at CPC. It would keep the rifle looking and feeling original, but shooting better.
10/22 modification is a huge rabbit hole and seldom results in only one rifle. Spend some time on https://www.rimfirecentral.com/, there is thousands of collective years worth of knowledge on 10/22's and other rimfires there.
 
Another old guy here that plans on a 10/22 after my current Bergara B14R project is finished.
In all of the decades I have owned guns I have never owned a 10/22.
Actually the only 22lr semi auto rifle I have ever owned is a Marlin 60 which I have had for decades and which I still own today.

I have been doing a ton of research and pricing parts and different options for a 10/22 build and in the end I keep coming back it just makes more sense to just go ahead and buy the complete Kidd Super Grade barreled action with their bolt and trigger and be done with it.

When you compare what the difference in price ends up being if you pretty much want to be sure of having an accurate 10/22 with no fuss buying the Kidd is a no brainer.
Not to mention if you ever want to sell it a Kidd Super Grade in a nice stock or chassis system will surely hold its value of what was initially invested better than a hodge podge of 10/22 parts you assembled at home.

Unless you like putting things together. I get a lot of pleasure out of it. Figuring out the correct pillar height, and making a rear anchor point that indexed with the cleaning hole were enjoyable to me. Anyone can just buy something. My hodge podge of parts shoots really well for a whole lot less than a kidd build.
 
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Another old guy here that plans on a 10/22 after my current Bergara B14R project is finished.
In all of the decades I have owned guns I have never owned a 10/22.
Actually the only 22lr semi auto rifle I have ever owned is a Marlin 60 which I have had for decades and which I still own today.

I have been doing a ton of research and pricing parts and different options for a 10/22 build and in the end I keep coming back it just makes more sense to just go ahead and buy the complete Kidd Super Grade barreled action with their bolt and trigger and be done with it.

When you compare what the difference in price ends up being if you pretty much want to be sure of having an accurate 10/22 with no fuss buying the Kidd is a no brainer.
Not to mention if you ever want to sell it a Kidd Super Grade in a nice stock or chassis system will surely hold its value of what was initially invested better than a hodge podge of 10/22 parts you assembled at home.

There is not one thing wrong with that. I totally get it taking a pile of shit and trying to make it fantastic, hell I was one of three idiots on this side of the ocean that road raced an Opel GT.....trust me I get it. And if you get joy from making something that is really not that great into something great more power to you, and you can do it without one single Bill 10 rounds is enough for anyone Ruger part if you wish.

But where I can't get on board is they are done to death, you really are doing nothing but bolting on parts. You are not figuring out anything for yourself, digging, researching, reaching out to people in other places of the world to find out why it is over heating, or shooting horrid. There is no real "work" on creation with it, you are not making anything. There is nothing special about it, nothing to stand it asides from all others.

As to the 60, I have 3-4 something like that. I have had that many 1022's in my life, and I have never had a 1022 OUT OF THE BOX that shot "better" tighter, more accurate....whatever then a 60, from new to so old there is no SN#. The 60 is a better rifle out of the box.

I dislike Ruger quite a bit, back to that bent barrel on christmas story I think I have told before. Done with that company. But I still just don't "get it" why the love for this thing, is it only because you can change it into something that should have been done years ago?
 
There is not one thing wrong with that. I totally get it taking a pile of shit and trying to make it fantastic, hell I was one of three idiots on this side of the ocean that road raced an Opel GT.....trust me I get it. And if you get joy from making something that is really not that great into something great more power to you, and you can do it without one single Bill 10 rounds is enough for anyone Ruger part if you wish.

But where I can't get on board is they are done to death, you really are doing nothing but bolting on parts. You are not figuring out anything for yourself, digging, researching, reaching out to people in other places of the world to find out why it is over heating, or shooting horrid. There is no real "work" on creation with it, you are not making anything. There is nothing special about it, nothing to stand it asides from all others.

As to the 60, I have 3-4 something like that. I have had that many 1022's in my life, and I have never had a 1022 OUT OF THE BOX that shot "better" tighter, more accurate....whatever then a 60, from new to so old there is no SN#. The 60 is a better rifle out of the box.

I dislike Ruger quite a bit, back to that bent barrel on christmas story I think I have told before. Done with that company. But I still just don't "get it" why the love for this thing, is it only because you can change it into something that should have been done years ago?
Same love there is for the ar15. The ability to assemble a great shooter from a bag of parts in a home garage with minimal tools stands it apart. Digging, researching, reaching out, troubleshooting, blah, blah, blah. What a fucking drag. Though not in firearms, as a field scientist, that’s my fucking day job. Firearms is a hobby. If you have 2 brain cells to rub together and create a spark, you can assemble either to run very well. Then again, from reading the semi auto subforum, it is apparent that many don’t have those 2 cells.
 
As to the 60, I have 3-4 something like that. I have had that many 1022's in my life, and I have never had a 1022 OUT OF THE BOX that shot "better" tighter, more accurate....whatever then a 60, from new to so old there is no SN#. The 60 is a better rifle out of the box.
Exactly the reason I do not want or am not considering just buying a stock Ruger 10/22.
I have heard the stories about some of what Ruger was letting out and past the QC people over the years.
I think that just the amount of good quality aftermarket parts for the 10/22 design make it an interesting subject to own.

Sort of like the Remington 700 and the clones of that action again the sheer amount of aftermarket support for it adds to the options available.
At this point and time I sort of doubt my 10/22 design rifle will have anything actually Ruger in it or on it except maybe a magazine or 3!
 
hell I was one of three idiots on this side of the ocean that road raced an Opel GT.....t
And I also owned an Opel GT for a short while anyway!
It was a cool looking car, like a mini Corvette but it had to have been one of the biggest pieces of crap overall I ever owned, and you raced one? Hell I doubt if the one I had would have outrun a stock Pinto by much if anything at all.
 
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And I also owned an Opel GT for a short while anyway!
It was a cool looking car, like a mini Corvette but it had to have been one of the biggest pieces of crap overall I ever owned, and you raced one? Hell I doubt if the one I had would have outrun a stock Pinto by much if anything at all.
Laid out by the same GM dude, it is really an interesting car, and company.

Like most things german it is WAY over built. The engine is strong enough for some big HP numbers, and not grenade like some of the other high strung production cars.

I ran F Production in SCCA up to about 2003-ish. Still have the car in the trailer, just can't bring myself to sell it. Like most race cars more money in it then I will ever get out. I could buy a dozen good GT's with what I have in the engine let alone the other parts.

2.0L ford is also a great engine. They use it in, or used it in Spec Racer ford, as well as (again back in my day) formula ford. Great little engines, and really a car that had issues very over blown.

Knew a guy that ran a Pinto and he was pretty quick, engine responds well to the mods we are allowed to do.....REAL WELL.
 
@Franko

! more vote to keep your Grandfathers .22 as is!!

10/22 are cheap enough to get a used one, and then go nuts with it!
Yep that's what I did, new trigger and stock. Was planning a barrel too. but it shot so well with the trigger and stock kept the barrel.
 
I own a 10/22 that I don't shoot because it's not particularly accurate. Usually I would sell the gun in this situation, but will not because I inherited it from my grandfather. I am now looking into upgrading the heck out of it to make it into a super accurate lightweight plinker (he used it to hunt squirrels so I want to be true to what the gun was used for by him) . Here are my questions:















Kidd (ultra lightweight or lightweight) or Volquartsen (carbon fiber barrel) or something else?



I am looking at a KRG Bravo stock, is there anything else I should be considering?



I expect to upgrade most of the Ruger parts to Kidd parts. Are there any parts made by Volquartsen (or anyone else) that are better than the Kidd version that I should be considering?



Thanks all.
 
I just started one, so far I have reworked the factory trigger to 2.5 lb pull, installed a Shaw match heavy barrel 20" and a Magpul hunter stock, started breaking the barrel in last week i expect it will be close to the same hole at 50 yards in the near future using wolf match ammo. Good luck have fun
 
Did you do anything yet? It sounds like you probably already have some more precision oriented rifles. I'm not keen on 10/22 precision builds. If I had one, I'd probably still shoot my Tikka or I wouldn't have one at all because I sold it to fund a Vudoo.

I had a 10/22 from a long time ago. I added an M1 Carbine Stock and tech sights. Super fun. Not expensive. And a unique but quality plinker.
 
Did you do anything yet? It sounds like you probably already have some more precision oriented rifles. I'm not keen on 10/22 precision builds. If I had one, I'd probably still shoot my Tikka or I wouldn't have one at all because I sold it to fund a Vudoo.

I had a 10/22 from a long time ago. I added an M1 Carbine Stock and tech sights. Super fun. Not expensive. And a unique but quality plinker.
I left my grandfather's 10/22 alone and am saving up enough money for a complete package Kidd build.
 
I left my grandfather's 10/22 alone and am saving up enough money for a complete package Kidd build.

You should still throw some tech sights on it. Completely reversible and fun to shoot with! It will make your older 10/22 look that much finer on top.

 
I own a 10/22 that I don't shoot because it's not particularly accurate. Usually I would sell the gun in this situation, but will not because I inherited it from my grandfather. I am now looking into upgrading the heck out of it to make it into a super accurate lightweight plinker (he used it to hunt squirrels so I want to be true to what the gun was used for by him) . Here are my questions:

  1. Kidd (ultra lightweight or lightweight) or Volquartsen (carbon fiber barrel) or something else?
  2. I am looking at a KRG Bravo stock, is there anything else I should be considering?
  3. I expect to upgrade most of the Ruger parts to Kidd parts. Are there any parts made by Volquartsen (or anyone else) that are better than the Kidd version that I should be considering?
Thanks all.
Send it the Randy at CPC for $250 it will be amazing and you’ll have saved the originality of the rifle. If the gun isn’t accurate or reliable enough to be fun for you then it will sit and not get used. No parts get wasted by being thrown in a box. I think you’ll be very happy with the accuracy. Had mine back in 3-weeks. Build a custom from scratch if you want to go farther with a 10/22. These are 10 shot 50yrd groups shot one after another no cherry picking. Done with a bone stock 10/22 just worked over by Randy with a 3-9x scope nothing fancy shot off a couple sand bags. The Aguila super extra group is half the size it was before the gunsmithing the flyers are what you get from the cheapest ammo available. The gun is 100% reliable, custom parts sometimes have horror stories attached to them with fitment and functionality. I’ve shot CCI quiet, Norma and American Eagle sub-sonics they all ran fine. For aftermarket stuff a like F.J. Feddersen stuff stellar accuracy and value. Also the Titan stock is truly amazing. Cheers
 

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I recently upgraded mine with a Shaw heavy match barrel, new Leupold scope 4x18, Magpul Hunter X22 stock. I filed and ground the trigger myself ( very simple) 2 lb pull and polished the action. And it shoots good ammo as well as any of the others and bad ammo good. I shot last week at a local IBS rimfire challenge and shot a 250 with 7x. There was a guy next to me shooting a full blown Kidd and he shot a 250 with 3x so unless you are going to strictly shoot matches why spend more than you have to ?
 
Pretty sure i went the opposite direction as everyone else.
I wanted to keep it much lighter and handy for carrying around and offhand shots on vermin.
16825412218031291598948.jpg
 
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There was a guy next to me shooting a full blown Kidd and he shot a 250 with 3x so unless you are going to strictly shoot matches why spend more than you have to ?
I never understand why someone makes a big deal out of shooting a better score than a person with a so and so brand rifle!

All that says is either the guy was having a bad day, was not actually a top tier shooter to begin with or just any number of factors.
Fact still remains you give an actual top tier shooter an actual top tier level rifle and 99% of the time he will still outscore the shooter with something they cobbled up at home!
 
I wanted an accurate rimfire. I really wanted a bolt gun but had a 10/22 laying around so I went down the rabbit hole. Kidd barrel, Brimstone trigger job, KRG Bravo, Athlon Helos, cheap ass bipod. Not done yet. Will have Kidd trigger group etc. Got close to $1500 in it.😳 I love it.😂View attachment 8043697
So there I was.... looking at buying a used 10/22 on the shelf at Cabela's one afternoon. Decent price for what it was.

Then I got to thinking about what I was fixin to replace: barrel, KRG Bravo, trigger, probably bolt. I realized that the only part of a 10/22 I needed to buy is the receiver so why spend $ on a rifle when I'm fixin to have 95% of it left over?

I'll build one 'soon.'

M
 
I never understand why someone makes a big deal out of shooting a better score than a person with a so and so brand rifle!

All that says is either the guy was having a bad day, was not actually a top tier shooter to begin with or just any number of factors.
Fact still remains you give an actual top tier shooter an actual top tier level rifle and 99% of the time he will still outscore the shooter with something they cobbled up at home!
You are probably right, what I am saying is if your building a squirrel shooter that is accurate why spend big bucks if not needed.
 
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You are probably right, what I am saying is if your building a squirrel shooter that is accurate why spend big bucks if not needed.
Because then I know I have the highest quality, likely most reliable, consistent and accurate rifle built on a 10/22 platform that I can buy and just because I CAN!😁
 
It's certainly a "going down the rabbit hole" experience. I hate to think of how many $$$$$ I have spent but they are fun guns.
 
My wife got me a 1022 years ago for Father's day. I didn't want to do anything to it, but I'm 6'6" so I went with the Magpul Hunter for LoP. Other than that it's perfectly fine for rabbits and squirrels.
 
I wanted an accurate rimfire. I really wanted a bolt gun but had a 10/22 laying around so I went down the rabbit hole. Kidd barrel, Brimstone trigger job, KRG Bravo, Athlon Helos, cheap ass bipod. Not done yet. Will have Kidd trigger group etc. Got close to $1500 in it.😳 I love it.😂View attachment 8043697
That is KIDD Super Grade money. Went with the KIDD and it groups better then my CZ bolt guns.

OFG
 
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Send it the Randy at CPC for $250 it will be amazing and you’ll have saved the originality of the rifle. If the gun isn’t accurate or reliable enough to be fun for you then it will sit and not get used. No parts get wasted by being thrown in a box. I think you’ll be very happy with the accuracy. Had mine back in 3-weeks. Build a custom from scratch if you want to go farther with a 10/22. These are 10 shot 50yrd groups shot one after another no cherry picking. Done with a bone stock 10/22 just worked over by Randy with a 3-9x scope nothing fancy shot off a couple sand bags. The Aguila super extra group is half the size it was before the gunsmithing the flyers are what you get from the cheapest ammo available. The gun is 100% reliable, custom parts sometimes have horror stories attached to them with fitment and functionality. I’ve shot CCI quiet, Norma and American Eagle sub-sonics they all ran fine. For aftermarket stuff a like F.J. Feddersen stuff stellar accuracy and value. Also the Titan stock is truly amazing. Cheers
Update: Finally tried a few Eley ammos all under $8 a box(my imposed limit to not get hooked on pricey stuff). Eley target got me three 1/4” 5 shot groups at 50yrds in a row Eley force was close behind. With a 3-9x scope and it was a little windy that’s perfect to me with a factory barrel. Don’t give up on your target model Randy builds an excellent combo for dollars spent.
 

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If it was me, I would keep your Grandfather's gun as is. The Bravo is a great chassic but it is not a good carry gun for squirrels. Go on Kidd's site and price out a Supergrade barreled action. The Kidd 2 stage trigger is the main cost, but is the best 10-22 trigger made. If you still want to build, go all Kidd. Check Kidd's prices before doing all that to your gun.
I agree with keeping Grand Pop's gun original. You would be changing the character of the whole thing customizing it and you'll end up with several $$$ in it anyway.
 
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Do you know where I can get the drawings of the receiver?
I found one online when I built mine plus I was taking measurements from a 10/22 and then adjusting them to fit the bolt tighter. The outside dimensions I just made larger to fit my liking because I knew I was making a custom stock.
 
I have and it is worth it. His page will tell you what he does.
Send Randy a bone-stock 10-22. You get back a selected factory bbl , new chamber, headspace’s, recrowned, and special sauce in the action which I will not describe further. Legal in factory class ABRA. Raw precision equal to the best custom builds but more difficult to shoot for accuracy as sitting in a factory ruger stock. Nothing to stop you from throwing it into any stock you chose depending on the game you play. Best bang for the buck.
 
The best trigger mod for the money is the Volquartsen hammer kit. I spun up a bedding pillar and used a surface grinder to true the bolt face and reduce the pocket depth to .042". The stock bedding ( jb weld original) is curing right now I also heli coiled the takedown screw hole to regular m6
 
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I'm thinking a better question is "Who hasn't upgraded their 10/22?".
For me a 10/22 is a hole in the safe that you pour money into. I've done it 4 or 5 times now .
They have their place, and I still have several but I will never do it again.
Not since I've found quality bolt actions.
 
I'm thinking a better question is "Who hasn't upgraded their 10/22?".
I haven’t upgraded my 10/22.

I read so many posts about the pain and expense of upgrading 10/22’s that I went straight from 0 to 100mph and bought a Kidd Supergrade.

Many people, at the end of their long, arduous upgrade path full of tinkering suggested a Kidd instead. After, I should say, spending equal or more cash on their Ruger.

So, for once in my life, I listened and just did it.

The Kidd is glorious. I am happy.
 
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I haven’t upgraded my 10/22.

I read so many posts about the pain and expense of upgrading 10/22’s that I went straight from 0 to 100mph and bought a Kidd Supergrade.

Many people, at the end of their long, arduous upgrade path full of tinkering suggested a Kidd instead. After, I should say, spending equal or more cash on their Ruger.

So, for once in my life, I listened and just did it.

The Kidd is glorious. I am happy.
I don't consider the supergrade to be be a 10/22 but more of a clone. I'm still a bolt action guy but if I were to do it again, I'd go supergrade too. the thing about going with the super grade is that at least you have some retained resale. Of the custom 10/22's I've sold, I had to either parts them out or take the 50% spanking on them. Very few want someone else custom 10/22. They want to build their own.
 
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I haven’t upgraded my 10/22.

I read so many posts about the pain and expense of upgrading 10/22’s that I went straight from 0 to 100mph and bought a Kidd Supergrade.

Many people, at the end of their long, arduous upgrade path full of tinkering suggested a Kidd instead. After, I should say, spending equal or more cash on their Ruger.

So, for once in my life, I listened and just did it.

The Kidd is glorious. I am happy.
I bought a Kidd, then upgraded the 30 year old 10/22 I had in the safe. Ironically, the upgrade gets shot more than the Kidd. The upgrade is a practice/kids’/loaner rifle. The Kidd is a match rifle.
 
I bought a Kidd, then upgraded the 30 year old 10/22 I had in the safe. Ironically, the upgrade gets shot more than the Kidd. The upgrade is a practice/kids’/loaner rifle. The Kidd is a match rifle.
I'd build again, only ruger part on the three of mine is the trigger which has been worked on, put a kidd trigger in it and I'm sure it's as good as a kidd. All three I put together will shoot one hole 10 shot groups at 25 with CCK SV. Out at 50 there's always one that sticks out a bit.
 
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A nice light weight squirreling gun you say. Here's my list
VQ hammer and polish the rest
KIDD LW barrel
Kidd charging handle
Have bolt headspaced
VQ extractor and mag release
Boyds Evo stock
Picatinny rail
Scope and rings of choice

Get some CCI SS HP and add your can. If no can then get one. It'll let you decide hoot more than ounce at em
 
Are these bases OK, or should I go with a one piece base for better accuracy?

20230730_154237.jpg
 
Are these bases OK, or should I go with a one piece base for better accuracy?

View attachment 8201169
Just use at least Purple or better yet blue loctite on all the threaded fasteners. The biggest concern is making sure you have the proper thread engagement. Pull the bolt and put the bases on with the screws a little past finger tight. Look at the inside make sure the screws are really close to flush with inside of the receiver if not buy longer ones. I made the mistake of just throwing on a pair on Talley ring and base combos. Went to torque the base to the recommend tq about half way to the tq setting the threads pulled out. I took a look and they were way short. I emailed Talley told them about the problem and the proper length needed I never heard anything back. I had a tap saved the hole put blue locite on and am not worried because it’s a rimfire with a fairly light scope. If you’re wanting the most you can do bed the bases to the receiver for more contact and fit. I do like using a lapping bar the keep the rings as straight as possible when you tighten up the clamping screws to the base. Lastly an old gunsmith that specialized in featherweight magnums for pack hunting told me a trick. He said brush liquid electrical tape(has to be fairly fresh and runny) on the top and bottom of scope ring cradles where they touch the scope body. This fills in any tiny voids left after lapping or if you haven’t lapped the rings plus cushions the metal to metal contact never had a scope move. I’ve done this on close to 50 different rifles(all mine and lots of friends) it works every time plus when I take a scope off I’ve never had a rub line on the scope tube finish either. After the liquid drys just peel off the excess and it leaves a clean look. Here’s a photo of my 10/22 with the Talley rings curing. Cheer’s enjoy that .22!
 

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Personally I always use a Picatinny rail on everyone I can so if I chose to swap scopes it's a 10 second thing. YMMV.
 
Sorry guys, I was being a little funny with the 2 piece Weaver rail pic. I usually use a one piece pic rail with built in moa from a reputable company. I was curious if someone would notice the serial number on a beauty I found in a shop. Everything is almost perfect except for the two rails on top.

I've modified many 1022s with just about every trick you can find on rimfirecentral, but this one won't be getting touched.
 
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