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Wood Stoves

Re: Wood Stoves

Id think you could craigslist a wood stove for a lot cheaper than 1K. Growing up we had a cast iron wood heater that my step dad eventually put in his workshop. Worked well. I think it was called a Ben Franklin wood burining heater.
 
Re: Wood Stoves

There are wood stoves, and then there are "Wood stoves with "catalytic heat generator" thingy's in them" that put out an incredible amount of heat, for an insanely long time, with practically no smoke or heat loss out of the chimney.

A couple I used to know, installed one in their basement. Seen the thing in action, and totally changed my outlook towards "wood heat".

Check 'em out.

Here's a link to a company (No affiliation whatsoever) that makes some. They're probably more fancier than what you're looking for, but it gives you an idea of their efficiency.

A woodstove site
 
Re: Wood Stoves

most kegs i have seen are aluminum and would not hold up to the heat of a wood stove. Most of the good shop stoves i have been around are home made and take longer than a normal wood stove. Because most shops are not sealed up the way a house is and therefor require a larger stove to heat them.
 
Re: Wood Stoves

Check if your area ever puts out burn/smoke restrictions too. If it does, most of the catalytic converter style stoves are allowed to burn during those times which would be a big advantage. They are very efficient and the fans put out a lot of heat. I have one in my house and it took my average winter NG bill from $300/mo to $50.
 
Re: Wood Stoves

failed to mention how big of shop.
TSC carries many different size stoves.

Seems like only Sean and 270 might also know about really needing heat.

Two hot water tanks.
Stacked, with offset pipes.
No need for cats, if it is designed, and fired right.
Also can melt, and treat stuff.

20x24 @120 F can thaw out a couple sleds real quick.

Will need a couple squegee people too.
 
Re: Wood Stoves

If you use a barrel stove make sure to put sand in the bottom of it that will bake a huge difference in how long it last. I know a few people who use them it there houses and they get 5+ years out of them if they aren't run red all the time and they just reuse the hardware and get a new barrel. If you go this way make sure to run it outside for a couple of hours fist to burn the paint off and the crap on the inside because it will stink to beet hell. The only other concern i would have is some insurance company's won't insure a house with a barrel stove in it I don't know how it applies to shops or how common this is but a friend had a problem with it a couple of years ago so if the building is insured i would check before i decided to go with a barrel stove.
 
Re: Wood Stoves

I second everything that 270 said. Large part of why I'd learned about the other direction. The other half of the reason, was the fuel/wood storage and cartage.

Ya gotta actually carry in wood, when you wanna turn up the thermostat. Not all that enticing, up here in the Frozen North. Eleventeen-hundred below, with a bazillion windchill.

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Re: Wood Stoves

Check out KwickKamp. I know it is for a wall tent but it is what I use for hunting and lend it to a friend for the winter. I put a balancing damper in the pipe and it works really well.
 
Re: Wood Stoves

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Triad</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you fill it with sand, how do you clean it?</div></div>


You will loose a little when you clean it but ash will do the same thing just make sure to leave 3 to 5 inches in the bottom weather sand or ash and your barrel won't burn out in a couple of months. You do this because fire bricks are made for flat bottomed stoves and don't work well in a barrel.
 
Re: Wood Stoves

Since I'm in the business I'll put in my $.02. First off check with your insurance company they will more than likely require a UL listed stove and chimney. Second most of the sub $500.00 are not controlled combustion which means you will not get any burn time or efficiency (look for an EPA tag if it says exempt stay away from it). Third stay away from catalytic woodstoves it was a band-aid cure when the EPA reg's came about in the early 90's most stove now use a Hi-Tech combustion system which is a set of tube above the burn chamber where the bring air in to promote secondary combustion. You might want to check out Monessen's new stove(model WR244) it should be under $700.00. I just ordered one to take a look @ it. I'll get back to you when it comes in. If you have any other question feel free to drop me a PM.
Here's a link for you I believe this also qualifies for the energy credit but don't quote me on that.
Link
 
Re: Wood Stoves

Neo, I have been thinking about one for the basement, my uncle had one that drew fresh air in from the garage, not burning any of the inside air. What would that be called or what am I looking for? My brother has a wood burner in his house (old house) and when its fired up you can feel the draft come in the windows doors and walls!
 
Re: Wood Stoves

Triad;
Trust me on this; for indoors use you do not want a "beerceg" style, not even in a workshop...
During my camping trips with the armed forces, the remf used those to heat up the larger snowtraps/cold-pits (take your pick) commonly known as "tents" and they suck.
It is impossible to regulate the heat in any way, they are either red hot and will burn the flesh clean off a hand or a dog snout in a split second, or they are cold.
Most of the energy from the wood goes straight up the chimney, and you have to keep feeding them and watching them more or less constantly, otherwise they die out and you have to start over.
For shorter camping trips they somewhat serve their purpose, but for a permanent install there is no way around a real wood-burner made from cast iron parts.

Living in a place where wood-burners make up the main heating source in many houses and almost any all-year weekend cottage, I have seen the light and it is a good solid modern cast iron stove.
Even the difference between an old cast iron stove (that a ceg-burner doesnt even come anywhere close to) and a modern "regenerating" one, with a specially designed chamber where the smoke exits, is immense when it comes to useful kW heat per log of wood.
Where the old ones will burn with a fierce flame due to the demand for oxygen (creating a draft in the entire room) the new ones burn nice and quiet with "calm" flames and create a way more comfortable heat than if using electricity.

Just my .02, best of luck and wishes of a nice warm and cozy winter
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John - out
 
Re: Wood Stoves

Craigslist would be the best bet. However, note the following:

Fireplace, 5% efficient
Wood burning stove, 15% efficient
WB stove with combustion air piped in from outside, 45% efficient. This is how most modern WB stoves are constructed.

Once I made a small stove from a 5 gallon steel water tank. I piped the combustion air in from the outside, and it was very efficient. Steel is okay, but cast iron would regulate the heat more evenly. This is especially true if burning softwood. Also the wood would burn more consistently with cast iron and insulating bricks inside.

Efficiency numbers courtesy Scientific American, from a long time ago.

-Steve