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Suppressors YHM Phantom 7.62 Question

Jackalope33B

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 5, 2010
1,457
0
Sunny Florida
Just got a YHM Phantom 7.62 with the QD feature. I noticed (a possible issue) that when I screw the QD onto the barrel hand tight. I then attached screw on the Can to the QD. I listen to several clicks as the Can is getting screwed in further and further. Once the Can is hand tight it sits in the middle of a "click".
Now my first question: Do I go ALOT tighter to get to that next 1/2 "click" or back it out 1/2 click and call it a day?

Question 2: After the Can is locked in place on the barrel, I can oh so slightly turn the can left or right. The Can doesnt get any tighter or looser, and the QD is NOT getting tighter or looser from the barrel. The movement seems its coming from the QD mechanism. Is this slight movement normal for these QD Cans, or is there something else going on here?

Thanks!
 
Re: YHM Phantom 7.62 Question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jackalope33B</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Just got a YHM Phantom 7.62 with the QD feature. I noticed (a possible issue) that when I screw the QD onto the barrel hand tight. I then attached screw on the Can to the QD. I listen to several clicks as the Can is getting screwed in further and further. Once the Can is hand tight it sits in the middle of a "click".
Now my first question: Do I go ALOT tighter to get to that next 1/2 "click" or back it out 1/2 click and call it a day?</div></div>

Mine did the same thing when it was new and it is no problem. Back it off that 1/2 of a tooth and leave it. It's not going to get loose so no need in trying to get it tighter. The only thing that will happen is you'll end up unscrewing your QD mount from your barrel, and then it's a PITA to get back out of the can lol.
I put a small Sharpie mark on the tooth that engages 100%. After 3 years...I've finally gotten to tighten it that one extra tooth if I give it the "GI Joe" hand torque. When new, it would never go all the way. In my case, a micro amount of tooth wear, just gave me a better suppressor lock up.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jackalope33B</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Question 2: After the Can is locked in place on the barrel, I can oh so slightly turn the can left or right. The Can doesnt get any tighter or looser, and the QD is NOT getting tighter or looser from the barrel. The movement seems its coming from the QD mechanism. Is this slight movement normal for these QD Cans, or is there something else going on here?

Thanks! </div></div>

Yes, the QD mount is tight, and yes, the can is tight to the mount...but the engagement point has a fraction of a micro gnat hair of play and in my experience, it will never get worse. I saw it on my 7.62 QD, saw it on the 5.56 QD and saw it on the 9mm WRAITH XL QD. Fear not! Never caused issues on any of them.
 
Re: YHM Phantom 7.62 Question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Now my first question: Do I go ALOT tighter to get to that next 1/2 "click" or back it out 1/2 click and call it a day?</div></div>

Mine does this as well on one of my QDs. Try rotating the ring with the teeth to the next indentation, not the can. All of my QD rings have a little play in them.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The only thing that will happen is you'll end up unscrewing your QD mount from your barrel, and then it's a PITA to get back out of the can lol.</div></div>

Actually, all you have to do to remove a stuck QD from the barrel (after it's off the gun) is remove the c-clip from the bottom of the QD. That releases the the spring from the ring and it will screw right out. Ask me how I figured this out.
 
Re: YHM Phantom 7.62 Question

I found that if I screw mine really tight, it requires a strap wrench to get it off after a couple hundred rounds. I now screw mine on til it quits clicking and back it off 1 click. No more stuck suppressor and it never backs off on its own. Not enough wobble to cause any problems at all. All in all one of the very best purchases I ever made.
 
Re: YHM Phantom 7.62 Question

I just went ahead and marked the suppressor and QD with a red dot where it stops clicking (after I back it off that 1/2 click). This way I can see if it does back off during firing and also to let me know how much to screw it down with out over tighting it..
 
Re: YHM Phantom 7.62 Question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jackalope33B</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just went ahead and marked the suppressor and QD with a red dot where it stops clicking (after I back it off that 1/2 click). This way I can see if it does back off during firing and also to let me know how much to screw it down with out over tighting it.. </div></div>

I use mine on 6 different guns of my own and my son uses it on his, so if I marked it for each gun it would be nothing but marks. I do use a pencil and make a reference mark so I can visually check it for tightness without grabbing that hot SOB.
 
Re: YHM Phantom 7.62 Question

I just purchased one of these for a LWRC 6.8 14.7 inch barrel. I am going to send the upper in to LWRC to permanently attach the QD muzzle brake. Is there anything that I need to do to make sure that I do not have baffle strikes with this set up. I know that this is a little off topic but would appreciate the help. This is my first can. I have read about the FH or brake not being installed properly and causing issues.
 
Re: YHM Phantom 7.62 Question

Just wanted to reinforce what others have said - let the teeth hold it. If you torque it on it can be very difficult to remove after you've shot for awhile. And, as noted, removing the spring clip is the easy way to remove the can from the QD mount if it is too tight to unscrew. I find keeping the spring-loaded mount ring clean and lubed helps, too.

The QD has to be concentric with the bore and needs to bear against a square (right angle) shoulder on the barrel. If it isn't you can get baffle strikes. After several months and much dispute and finally shipping my rifle to YHM to cut the crappy threading job off and do it right, and pressing in a new baffle stack and refinishing my can, I finally solved the problem caused by a local "gunsmith" who assured me he could properly thread my barrel. This is not a place to try to save money or time - LWRC ought to be able to do a good job.