Your dream drag bag build?

[Muskox]

With 18 years of Navy Parachute Rigger experience I know how to sew, and have a lot of time building odd projects for various commanders/Master Chiefs, and other pains in my ass.

I have bought quite a few drag bags, and there are things I like and don't.

What would you want on a drag bag if you could design it your way?

 

[ArmaHeavy]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

One big pocket...for the rifle.

I'm serious. For awhile I've been through some different bags and they always had tons of pockets, and tons of pockets mean tons of stuff, and the next thing you know you're carrying a rail mounted BBQ grill on your rifle, because the pocket that you originally had it for has the Tiger Stripe hot tub in it.

Something going back to the basics would be nice.

 

[TOP PREDATOR]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

what would be the bottom, have a slight tobbagan / sled type of upward slope to help run smoother over terrain. like fiberglass skeleton or insert sewn into / underneath the padding.

keep it slender, protection for the tool and a few extras is the key. a soft range bag is nice for the range, not on a stalk.

built in hydration system

molle type attachments on the inside, even more so than the outside. netting that can be attached to the outer molle for veggying / jute up

a quick disconnect shoulder straps to carry on the back, that can be somehow converted into a harness / tether system.

a long slender pocket to put the barrel in with a quiet cinching or button holddown for the stock in the rear.

small accessory pockets done seperately, so you can add or subtract what need and not have pockets for stuff you don't.
you can secure (molle) them where you want, not where someone thinks you should have them.

for opening and closing, nothing is worse than a zipper sound or ripping velcro. have the zipper for long hauls, but a gusseted button / cinching system for when you are closer. keep it zippered when humping, unzipper before you start the stalk and have the buttons / cinching be robust enough to keep it closed and contents protected.

besides the usual padding, some type insulation quality so you can use it as a makeshift shelter if needed. maybe some sort of skirting that can be added to the button downs to offer more protection in "shelter mode".

 

[DeputyDawg]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

Wow, Pred......... That sounds almost perfect. I say almost, not because I think i can improve it, but someone will think of the the most perfect thing to add or modify. You are spot on. I WOULD BUY THE BAG that pred designed.

 

[sobrbiker883]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

Eagle DB-S or whatever the little tri-fold is. I'm with Arma, more room, more shit, more weight.

 

[Triad]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

Watching this one.

 

[Jaxdialation]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?


I really want a variety of ways to cinch down the rifle inside the bag. They are never in the right spot for me, so I settle for one strap.

I like the simple bag others have mentioned. -Maybe a pocket for the mags?

Really good fabric and fill is a given - the best would be nice

This is the closest your rifle gets to sex after all. #

I don't give shit about color selection. Pick one or too colors and drive out the extra costs of making multiple patterns.


# Please, that was intended to be a description. There is no need to post up any additional examples.

 

[Muskox]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

Here is what I am thinking:

Cordura 1000 in 5 or 6 Colors max. Flecktarn, OD Green, Navy Type III or CADPAT Green, FDE, Tan/Coyote, Mossy Oak Brush, and Real Tree Max-1. Ideally a guy wouldn't want to pay royalties on a camo pattern. However, I really like MO Brush and RT Max-1.

I think getting CADPAT Green, Navy Type III, and Flecktarn in Cordura 1000 would be hard. But I haven't tried yet.

I think the royalties on Multi-Cam would increase total cost by $60-100 per unit. That and it's super gay!

Just a rifle holder with a magazine bag on the side. I concur.

Good padding, 2 layers of 2 different kinds of closed cell foam.

YKK Zippers, not sure why so many people miss this. Tough zippers are mandatory!

 

[ArmaHeavy]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

I do love YKK zippers, but even when you have 550 cord zipper pulls the zipper will still make noise. I also can't really give my vote to elastic either. I would say something that is Bombproof, BUT BUT BUT also end user repairable would be ideal. Even a 550 cord drawstring would be simplistically wonderful.

Based off my little bit of experience, military and hunting wise, coyote comes in as my favorite color. I really believe that if bag is going to get designed from the ground up then it should be understood that the end user WILL modify it with the ancient art of krylon to his environment. Hence, I don't believe that patterns are that big of a deal, but I question, say if your being observed then wouldn't that pattern work against you, if it isn't modified?

 

[fw707]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

I'd have some zipper pulls I could find easily, kinda like these I made for my gun cases, but maybe a little smaller:

 

[Shiffty]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TOP PREDATOR</div><div class="ubbcode-body">what would be the bottom, have a slight tobbagan / sled type of upward slope to help run smoother over terrain. like fiberglass skeleton or insert sewn into / underneath the padding.

keep it slender, protection for the tool and a few extras is the key. a soft range bag is nice for the range, not on a stalk.

built in hydration system

molle type attachments on the inside, even more so than the outside. netting that can be attached to the outer molle for veggying / jute up

a quick disconnect shoulder straps to carry on the back, that can be somehow converted into a harness / tether system.

a long slender pocket to put the barrel in with a quiet cinching or button holddown for the stock in the rear.

small accessory pockets done seperately, so you can add or subtract what need and not have pockets for stuff you don't.
you can secure (molle) them where you want, not where someone thinks you should have them.

for opening and closing, nothing is worse than a zipper sound or ripping velcro. have the zipper for long hauls, but a gusseted button / cinching system for when you are closer. keep it zippered when humping, unzipper before you start the stalk and have the buttons / cinching be robust enough to keep it closed and contents protected.

besides the usual padding, some type insulation quality so you can use it as a makeshift shelter if needed. maybe some sort of skirting that can be added to the button downs to offer more protection in "shelter mode". </div></div>

yea pretty much perfect someone call TT or one of those guys!

 

[Jaxdialation]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

I would specifically NOT want the following items:

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TOP PREDATOR</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

built in hydration system

besides the usual padding, some type insulation quality so you can use it as a makeshift shelter if needed. maybe some sort of skirting that can be added to the button downs to offer more protection in "shelter mode". </div></div>

 

[memyselfi]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

Somebody get out the sketched pad and draw some plans for Muskox. Theres alot to be said for<span style="font-weight: bold"> simplicity in form and function</span>. A buddy made one out of a LBT gurney, bed roll and anything that he could scroung up. It worked and actualy didn't look bad.
The shid plate idea is awesome, one of those "why didn't I think of that", also the multiple tie downs is a must.

 

[Chiller]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

something that would remind me to get rid of more crap.....

more pockets....more weight.....more stuff I NEVER use.....

 

[Platypus]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

Muskox,

It is nice to see someone with some common sense that subscribes to the KISS rule on gear. From having drug rifles around in the weeds for years the two drag bag set ups I found to be the most functional for my M40A1 were:

1. A surplus canvas rifle parachute bag. Removed some of the external straps and attachment points and left the strap on the end with the opening to use as a drag point. Sewed on some netting for ghillie and natural veg and we were good to go.

2. A BDU trouser leg sewn up on the large leg opening (where it was cut at the crotch. A loop of nylon webbing sewn to the bottom of the leg as a drag handle and the draw string in the leg opening replaced with 550 cord to close the opening covered the bottom (the side opposite the cargo pocket) with Shoe Goo and canvas. The cargo pocket was left on the trouser leg but really did not get used for much.

The problem with most drag bags is they are not really worth a shit for skull dragging with a rifle trailing between your legs or tucked under your arm and dragged along. Most drag bags out there are nothing more than a misguided rifle soft case. We were issued the Eagle drag bags with all the pockets and BS on them and honestly never went to the field with us. When the rifle was out of the Eagle bag and you had to pack it, and that was like trying to stow two sofa cushions in or on your ruck, more trouble than it was worth. I always stalked with my muzzle forward so the rifle could be pulled from the bag and pointed towards the target without having to turn it around. The only additional thing I found that we wished we had room for on the drag bag is our spotting scope and shooting tripod. Some suggestions for a functional and durable drag bag:

Size just wide enough and long enough for the rifle with attached optics and bipod.

Material of construction and padding is a given that they are to be durable (not too much padding to make it bulky though) padding that does not absorb moisture.

1000D Cordura (tan in color, it is always easier to take a light colored object and make it darker, paint, natural veg and jute will dictate the camo you need to match your environment) I wouldn't worry too much about making a tactical fashion statement, with that folks will still want colors and patterns as the reality is very few cases are actually used in the field they become a soft case at the range. Something to consider, but most folks stalking for real just want a durable neutral colored bag suited for their intended purpose.

A canvas bottom (it is quitter when being dragged and pretty good about being abrasion resistant) and or 4-5 lengths of 1" webbing running the length of the bag, maybe a length of 1/4" rope sewn inside the webbing to give it a ridge to work as a runner, less drag but still allows the bag to be folded up. Lord only knows how many GP tents were sacrificed for ghillie suits and drag bags over the years.

The opening at the top is like an old style saddle rifle scabbard and has a flap covering the top and tucks in (see how the flap on a Spec-Ops "Shark bite" wallet closure works, no buckles to break, no noisy Velcro to collect dirt and veg, no zippers to break). The one thing that worked pretty well on the Eagle bag is a hood piece that slips over the opening and allows the drag handle to go through it. The hood is an extra layer of protection and aids in keeping stuff out of the bag (and could even be a replaceable/sacrificial piece). With that a durable sewn in drag handle large enough to slip your hand through it and easily attach a carabineer. Something we had with our homemade drag bags was an adjustable sling of sorts that you could wear over a shoulder under the ghillie top and had a tail long enough to rest on your butt and hook up the drag handle to it. Beat the hell out of hooking to a trouser belt and having your pants pulled down as you crawled. Molle sewn across on the top for attaching whatever pouches you may want along with vegetation. An additional idea is have a single length of webbing sewn the length of the bag on both outside edges with the same increments of cross stitching as the molle to allow for attachment of carry straps, handles, and also provides a means to lash other gear on top of the bag. With the attachment of some caribeeners or Grimloc clips and shoulder straps the bag easily converts to backpack carry or over the shoulder. In the middle of the outside long lengths of webbing you could leave the webbing unsewn just enough to act as a suitcase style carry handle.
Just some ideas and what would have benefitted me.

 

[Tomcat]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

I really don't need a drag bag, but I am looking for a bag that fold out to a shooting mat. Some pockets to keep mags, and a spine to keep a cleaning rod.
Back pack straps, good carry handles are a must.

Most of the these bags are single purpose. I'd like to get more utility out of mine that just a bag.
The ability to fold it out and lay on it would eliminate the need for a shooting mat.

 

[Muskox]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

I am against the tent/shelter and shooting mat as well.

I have the cordura at the house. I need to order the closed cell foam and zippers.

 

[VJJPunisher]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

ive said this before, I want it to be a roll out sleeping bag as well as rifle sleeve drag bag

 

[_Shay_]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

Something simple and effective. It doesn't need molle webbing, just some vegetation straps at the most. Has a rifle pocket and tie downs, and has shoulder straps, maybe an inner pocket for a databook, but that's it...

I think I'll make one.

 

[Redmanss]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

Platypus is dead on with my experiences and opinions. I never tried the trouser leg, but I did try one of the jump cases borrowed from another sniper in my platoon. My problem with it was it was too squared off on the muzzle end and the old school brass zipper sucked, but otherwise it was nice and simple.

On the issued Eagle bag, my sentiments exactly. It NEVER went to the field with us on an actual patrol or mission, and was only something to store all our armory gear for transport or for a school style stalk. Way too much padding, way too bulky and heavy, didn't need it anyhow.

The overall application of the drag bag is something that should be considered. They're used a lot in training but rarely in the real world. You're not going to daylight skull drag across open ground to a range of <200m out on a two way range. Also if I'm skull dragging, I'm getting close, real close, and it's for the purpose of reconnaissance not shooting.

As for what you're bringing with, sure you have to have that tripod in school but otherwise improvised/positional shooting is what's going to actually be used when approaching within that distance. That basically puts your required gear load at rifle, sidearm, log book with map, Camelbak and your spotter with radio, spotter/binos and rifle. Everything else is stashed at the ORP.

Lets face it, there's plenty of "drag" bags out there that will carry everything including the kitchen sink, and while they're nice for the range or GP transportation, they suck ass when skull dragging for 500m+. What I would have liked is something that is made for dragging and only dragging.

For me the ideal sniper school drag bag would have the following characteristics:
* Minimal padding on bottom only.
* Padding having separations so it can be easily folded.
* 500 denier Cordura on top, 1000 on bottom.
* Scabbard styling.
* Internal length of rifle +2", width same.
* Single pouch for tripod/shooting sticks, another for magazines, monocular, misc., again with double fold and elastic for access and retention.
* No snaps, velcro, zippers or QR (fastex) clips on it, double folded top loading access pouches only with elastic sewn in for retention and ease of access.
* Scattered sewn on elastic loops and 550 cord for veg attachment, scattered jute too but not too much.
* Heavy duty drag loop for tow cord attachment.
* Rounded at muzzle end with Eagle style protective hood.
* Nylon bottom (not canvas) so it can slide easier.
* No pack straps, handles or anything else like that.
* Coyote/FDE color.
* Separate pouch for suppressor as necessary.
* Minimalist concept throughout, but heavy stitching and double bar tacking at critical areas.

My overall thought is that you don't have to fight with zippers, clips with dangling straps, snaps that get crudded up, and it is as lightweight as possible while still being durable. It should slide with as little resistance as possible, hence the nylon bottom. A smaller end opening will hold the rifle securely while being dragged, but is flared with elastic to allow for ease of use and retention. Rounded end for streamlining to keep it from getting hung up. As compact as possible while still being roomy enough that you don't need to struggle getting the gear in and out.

 

[Jaxdialation]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

You sure spec'd it to the max! For example, why worry about zipper noise if its only used in training? I could say the same about many of your specs.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Redmanss</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
The overall application of the drag bag is something that should be considered. They're used a lot in training but rarely in the real world.
</div></div>

 

[Redmanss]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

It's not the zipper noise. It's the fact that they get all jacked up and ruin the bag while frustrating the shit out of you in the FFP. I've surveyed more than one Eagle bag due to a bad zipper. Sure, they have the snaps to back it up, but those get filled with sand and piss you off too. All things I don't want to have to worry about when I need to be finding a loophole through three bushes.

I'm just glad my days of worrying about getting those perfect scores to graduate are long since gone, but what I wrote above is what I would have wanted back then.

 

[Muskox]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

Right now I am trying to find a 2nd hand industrial sewing maching here in Australia.

Through the FPO I can only recieve 70 pound boxes. The Navy/Marine Corps Rigger standard machine is a Consew 206RB weighs about 80 and the table about 120. That is the machine I want since I have been using one since 1993 in A-School in Millington.

Might have to wait until I retire in 2014 and head home. But the price on new Consew 206RBs is $1500ish out the door delivered. So they finally got reasonable, I never actually priced one before as in 8 different units I have never had one break down so far that I couldn't fix it.

I can get a table top 206R for $500. But I am not sure if it has the power to sew through 5 or 6 layers of Cordura 1000 or not.

I'll let you guys know, I might start doing a few project sew jobs if I can get a machine sorted out.

 

[lonely_wolf]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

For an easy, durable, quick, secure, and quite way to close bags- I like what Arc'teryx did on their Silo backpacks. I was a little leery at first because it was different, but after using a 40 for a year I really like the feature. Basically pile everything in through the top hole of the bag then roll it down. There are straps on each side you pull to keep it tightly closed. Might work for a drag bag done sheath style.

Scroll to the bottom of the page to see some pictures:
http://www.largo99.com/store/backcountry/pack/actrx/index.htm#silo40

 

[Muskox]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

I found a sewmech that should work. All Navy and Marine Corps parachute riggers use a Consew 206RB, I found a Consew 206R (non table model) that will work for our needs.

According to Consew it is a industrial medium designed for carrying onsite for custom work. The biggest difference is it has a internal electric motor, and the 206RB has a big external motor and is belt driven.

I am headed out for a TAD for a couple weeks, but when we get back to town I think I'll order one. Should be using it after Christmas, and I am already set up with a lot of leather and Cordura 1000.

 

[sirhrmechanic]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: fw707</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'd have some zipper pulls I could find easily, kinda like these I made for my gun cases, but maybe a little smaller:

</div></div>

FW707...

How about doing a video or tutorial on making those zipper pulls? That's what my Blackhawk drag (well, trunk) bag needs! I hate rooting for little metal zipper pulls. Those are great!

Cheers,

Sirhr

 

[mobius38]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

All those are great ideas. I am about to buy my first bag and will take into consideration all these ideas. Those zipper pulls are great!

 

[LOBO151]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

FW707, made me some of those zipper pulls. they are nice, and work well!

+1, for having zipper pulls on your dream drag bag!!

Thanks'
FW707

LOBO 151

 

[fw707]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

Thanks guys!
I had second thoughts after I posted the picture because I know nothing about actual "drag bags" that a lot of y'all use in your line of work. I apologize for that.
The zipper pulls are nice to have on gun cases, back packs, or other zippered stuff. I've got one on the zipper of my data book cover.
They're easy to make if you know how to do a "Solomon braid".

 

[Sniper2012]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

Eagle or Tactical taylor...Eagle has webbing...Tactical has built on pockets both made in USA and after many junk bags I have learned you get what you pay for

 

[mclevela]

Re: Your dream drag bag build?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ArmaHeavy</div><div class="ubbcode-body">One big pocket...for the rifle.

I'm serious. For awhile I've been through some different bags and they always had tons of pockets, and tons of pockets mean tons of stuff, and the next thing you know you're carrying a rail mounted BBQ grill on your rifle, because the pocket that you originally had it for has the Tiger Stripe hot tub in it.

Something going back to the basics would be nice. </div></div>

What Arma said. +1
Enough padding that it can be thrown into a pelican case when needed and hold up to gorilla baggage handlers.