Zero press Gen2

No way I’d switch. I cam over my sizing die so I have no idea why I’d need stronger linkage. It’s by and far already the smoothest press I’ve ever owned and I don’t know why an improvement there would matter. The detent for primers might be cool but I have no idea why I’d need it - the tray has never moved even with swapping on my inline fabric. And I put my torque wrench in the hole in my inline fab.

It’s cool they’re continuing to improve but there’s no reason to upgrade I can see.
 
If one were buying new today, Gen 1 or Gen 2? I currently use an older Hornady single stage. I am looking for a turret style for precision rifle reloading (Redding T7 or Zero). I don't (up to now) use the press for primers.
 
No way I’d switch. I cam over my sizing die so I have no idea why I’d need stronger linkage. It’s by and far already the smoothest press I’ve ever owned and I don’t know why an improvement there would matter. The detent for primers might be cool but I have no idea why I’d need it - the tray has never moved even with swapping on my inline fabric. And I put my torque wrench in the hole in my inline fab.

It’s cool they’re continuing to improve but there’s no reason to upgrade I can see.

I obviously haven’t used a gen 2 but this is pretty much my view as well. It’s already rock solid with very strong linkage and extremely smooth. I decap on a Dillon with a case feeder and prime on a CPS so no opinion on the detent for the little primer tray.
 
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I have one arriving Thursday, bought directly from Area 419 last Friday. I thought about buying the Gen 1 and saving some money but a couple places I looked at were already sold out of the Gen1. I'm sure I could have easily found one but just went with the new version. It'll be my first press, new to reloading.
 
On Gen 2, the ram now goes up and then back down a little at the end of the stroke, correct? This is what they are calling cam-over? What is the perceived benefit if this?
Correct. I believe in the video they said it will drop about .001" at the upper end of the stroke.
The benefit of this is when your shell holder isn't making contact with the bottom of the die. It's really difficult to make the ram stop in the perfect position every single time. The stops at the bottom of the stroke always have a little give to them, or you can get some dust on it. If you have contact between the die and the shell plate, the die actually sets the base position which is reached before the end of the stroke, negating the need for cam over. This is why they strongly recommended shell holder contact on the gen 1. Most presses have a "cam over" so the maximum height of the ram is achieved before the bottom of the stroke, meaning that stop point is far less critical and the max height is more consistent. This is a lot more important if you float your dies.
 
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Correct. I believe in the video they said it will drop about .001" at the upper end of the stroke.
The benefit of this is when your shell holder isn't making contact with the bottom of the die. It's really difficult to make the ram stop in the perfect position every single time. The stops at the bottom of the stroke always have a little give to them, or you can get some dust on it. If you have contact between the die and the shell plate, the die actually sets the base position which is reached before the end of the stroke, negating the need for cam over. This is why they strongly recommended shell holder contact on the gen 1. Most presses have a "cam over" so the maximum height of the ram is achieved before the bottom of the stroke, meaning that stop point is far less critical and the max height is more consistent. This is a lot more important if you float your dies.
I understand now, thank you!
 
Correct. I believe in the video they said it will drop about .001" at the upper end of the stroke.
The benefit of this is when your shell holder isn't making contact with the bottom of the die. It's really difficult to make the ram stop in the perfect position every single time. The stops at the bottom of the stroke always have a little give to them, or you can get some dust on it. If you have contact between the die and the shell plate, the die actually sets the base position which is reached before the end of the stroke, negating the need for cam over. This is why they strongly recommended shell holder contact on the gen 1. Most presses have a "cam over" so the maximum height of the ram is achieved before the bottom of the stroke, meaning that stop point is far less critical and the max height is more consistent. This is a lot more important if you float your dies.

At least on mine, with SAC dies if they touch the shell plate, I get almost 75k of sizing past where I need to be. Been debating about putting they die in the lathe.
 
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At least on mine, with SAC dies if they touch the shell plate, I get almost 75k of sizing past where I need to be. Been debating about putting they die in the lathe.
If you’re getting 0.075” excess shoulder bump over your goal (with firm die-to-shellholder contact), you definitely don’t want to trim your die with a lathe. That will make matters worse. Your die is out of spec. You can back the die out ‘til you find the correct shoulder bump but it’s likely the case will not get sized correctly at the base .200 line.
 
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This seems more like it's a refinement. Not really any kind of upgrade. Will people dump their Gen1 for a 2, absolutely. I love the next new shiny as much as the next person, but see nothing that would make a round better than the Gen1. Money wasted on upgrading can be better spent on putting it into supplies. Like powder and bullets.
 
I received mine yesterday and now trying to figure out a bench or something to mount it to. I'm new to reloading so gathering the required equipment. While I know other presses make perfectly fine ammo, one look at the Zero and it's easy to see why it is quite a bit more expensive. I haven't seen any of the Gen 1 Zero's for sale yet so don't think most will upgrade but obviously a few will I know.
 
I received mine yesterday and now trying to figure out a bench or something to mount it to. I'm new to reloading so gathering the required equipment. While I know other presses make perfectly fine ammo, one look at the Zero and it's easy to see why it is quite a bit more expensive. I haven't seen any of the Gen 1 Zero's for sale yet so don't think most will upgrade but obviously a few will I know.
Get an inline fabrication mount and add tracks to your workbench.

IMG_2183.jpg
 
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Thanks, I like the tracks. What kind of bench is that you're using? I need to order the mount, was looking at them this morning.
That is a Home Depot 72" workbench
 
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Anyone mounted their Zero press with the included mounting plate and if so how thick is the bench it’s attached to? I’m most likely going to order the Inline Fabrication mount but in the meantime I had planned on mounting it to a section of an old desk I currently have. But, the bolts included are too long and it looks like the bench top needs to be at least an inch thick, maybe a little thicker, I’m guessing mine is around 3/4”. I’m looking for an another bench also to permanently mount it to.
 
Anyone mounted their Zero press with the included mounting plate and if so how thick is the bench it’s attached to? I’m most likely going to order the Inline Fabrication mount but in the meantime I had planned on mounting it to a section of an old desk I currently have. But, the bolts included are too long and it looks like the bench top needs to be at least an inch thick, maybe a little thicker, I’m guessing mine is around 3/4”. I’m looking for an another bench also to permanently mount it to.
Mine is mounted to 1.5" butcher block. on a custom bench I welded together. It flexes a small bit. Or I think it does as it makes my scale fluctuate. Still need to buy a granite slab for that.
 
Thanks, I looked at a couple of benches today and can see I’ll need to take the mounting plate and make sure it’ll fit. A couple I looked at had the brace, one was metal, recessed about an inch or less from the front edge which might be an issue also. Definitely think a minimum of an inch is a necessity now. I’ve seen a couple of butcher blocks for sale so might look more in to that option also. Appreciate the info.
 
Thanks, I looked at a couple of benches today and can see I’ll need to take the mounting plate and make sure it’ll fit. A couple I looked at had the brace, one was metal, recessed about an inch or less from the front edge which might be an issue also. Definitely think a minimum of an inch is a necessity now. I’ve seen a couple of butcher blocks for sale so might look more in to that option also. Appreciate the info.

I have a 6’ Gladiator work bench with 1.75” thick wood top. Very stable. I have a Zero and a Prazi mounted on it. No movement
 

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I personally don’t like that my gen 1 doesn’t cam over. It makes for a very inconsistent feel. It does make excellent ammo though. I also take it to the range periodically and the primer tray has never failed to fall out in the truck. I’ve since learned to just leave it at home.

Looking at the gen 1 stop it appears it can be ground off to create a cam over then drill and tap the body to install a new stop. I’m just the fool to try it and ruin a perfectly good press. Then I’ll buy a gen 2.
 
For the Gen 2, they should have come out with a press mounted priming solution or at least made accommodations for a future release of one. Imagine one that looks like the Redding T7 setup.

I'd also like for them to add additional components that mount to the ArcaLok rail on the back other than just that tray. A tray with an articulating arm would be nice.
 
For the Gen 2, they should have come out with a press mounted priming solution or at least made accommodations for a future release of one. Imagine one that looks like the Redding T7 setup.

I'd also like for them to add additional components that mount to the ArcaLok rail on the back other than just that tray. A tray with an articulating arm would be nice.
Why bother with a priming system? Personally, I don't know anyone who primes on the press. It's all done with a different tool.
Here's a solution for anyone real intent on priming on the press.

The cool part about it being ARCA spec is it's pretty easy to make whatever you want using super cheap clamps at least.

I can't imagine a real benefit of the ball detent on the primer catch tray. It's not like it flops around or falls out as it is...
Seems unnecessary and just something to say that's "different".
If your press never moves, it's a non-issue. If you have to move your press around, it's a mild inconvenience.
 
Why bother with a priming system? Personally, I don't know anyone who primes on the press. It's all done with a different tool.
Here's a solution for anyone real intent on priming on the press.

The cool part about it being ARCA spec is it's pretty easy to make whatever you want using super cheap clamps at least.


If your press never moves, it's a non-issue. If you have to move your press around, it's a mild inconvenience.

I don't prime on press either, but many people do and a good solution that's an add on would have probably been a worthwhile upgrade. Almost every other turret and single stage press on the market have some sort of factory supported priming capability.

I don't move my presses, but I know some do. I think the % that do move them around is VERY small.
 
I've actually never primed on a single stage press and wouldnt on my zero gen1 even if i could. I do on my 550 but otherwise I now use the ugly primer. I thought priming on press went out several years back when the bench primers and all got more popular and then completely died out when cps and the ugly primer came out?
 
I've actually never primed on a single stage press and wouldnt on my zero gen1 even if i could. I do on my 550 but otherwise I now use the ugly primer. I thought priming on press went out several years back when the bench primers and all got more popular and then completely died out when cps and the ugly primer came out?
Not for me. Large rifle is primed on an automated 750, small rifle on an automated 1050.

The consistency of primer depth in each of those machines is plenty good enough to be in the range where some slight variations don’t affect anything. That’s what I understand of the smart people doing statistical analysis on primer crush.

The CPS is still great and very precise, it’s just not as efficient as an auto drive on the dillon machines.
 
Not for me. Large rifle is primed on an automated 750, small rifle on an automated 1050.

The consistency of primer depth in each of those machines is plenty good enough to be in the range where some slight variations don’t affect anything. That’s what I understand of the smart people doing statistical analysis on primer crush.

The CPS is still great and very precise, it’s just not as efficient as an auto drive on the dillon machines.
yeah I prime on my 550 that I feed and all too, I was just talking about single stage presses.
 
I can't imagine a real benefit of the ball detent on the primer catch tray. It's not like it flops around or falls out as it is...
Seems unnecessary and just something to say that's "different".
Mine is on an Inline Fab quick change plate and every time I move the press it falls out. This was a practical, worthwhile upgrade for sure (in my opinion). Not a reason alone to release a new gen press, but if they were making bigger changes anyway (link arms) it makes sense to include this minor upgrade.