I am mounting mine on the back of my rail underneath my scope at the 1 o'clock position. How hard is it for this model to zero? Do they pretty much get on paper somewhere after the first shot at 50 yards or are they all over the place? Any experiences here? Thanks!!
Rifle Scopes Zeroing a Burris fast fire ii
- Thread starter adam1122
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Re: Zeroing a Burris fast fire ii
I'd get closer than 50 yards for the first round or two. I'd also zero a little closer than 50 yards, I'd still be using my scope for 50 yards depending on the power range.
I'd get closer than 50 yards for the first round or two. I'd also zero a little closer than 50 yards, I'd still be using my scope for 50 yards depending on the power range.
Re: Zeroing a Burris fast fire ii
It's an optic like any other. Bore sight the thing first and you will be on paper first shot. They're very easy to zero after that, but can be tricky if you have them mounted at an angle.
It's an optic like any other. Bore sight the thing first and you will be on paper first shot. They're very easy to zero after that, but can be tricky if you have them mounted at an angle.
Re: Zeroing a Burris fast fire ii
Follow the directions.
The things I noted is that there are a separate set of screws for locking down the adjustment screws. Remember to tighten these before shooting. They don't have to be super tight during the zero process. Just enough so that any shift they might cause is minimal. Also keeps the other screws from flopping around.
Best thing to do is use your scope as a bore sighter for the the fastfire. Sandbag the rifle with the scope aimed at the target. Adjust the Fastfire to be centered on the target. This should get you close enough to be on paper.
Besides this, since your fastfire is off axis. Move the windage and elevation accordingly based off the angle offset. Moving the dot left(For right wind) would also move it a bit up. Moving it up(for decreased elevation) will also move the dot a bit right and so on. Also try and zero how you will shoot it. So if you are going to roll your rifle to use the reddot, roll it when zeroing.
Follow the directions.
The things I noted is that there are a separate set of screws for locking down the adjustment screws. Remember to tighten these before shooting. They don't have to be super tight during the zero process. Just enough so that any shift they might cause is minimal. Also keeps the other screws from flopping around.
Best thing to do is use your scope as a bore sighter for the the fastfire. Sandbag the rifle with the scope aimed at the target. Adjust the Fastfire to be centered on the target. This should get you close enough to be on paper.
Besides this, since your fastfire is off axis. Move the windage and elevation accordingly based off the angle offset. Moving the dot left(For right wind) would also move it a bit up. Moving it up(for decreased elevation) will also move the dot a bit right and so on. Also try and zero how you will shoot it. So if you are going to roll your rifle to use the reddot, roll it when zeroing.
Re: Zeroing a Burris fast fire ii
Thanks for the help guys. Should be pretty interesting to see where the first shot ends up at 50 yards since Im not even going to boresight it before i put a round downrange. Kinda interested to see where they put the dot at in the factory.
I'll keep yall posted....headed to the range on Wed or Thursday this week to zero my new US Optics SN-3 and the fastfire.
Thanks for the help guys. Should be pretty interesting to see where the first shot ends up at 50 yards since Im not even going to boresight it before i put a round downrange. Kinda interested to see where they put the dot at in the factory.
I'll keep yall posted....headed to the range on Wed or Thursday this week to zero my new US Optics SN-3 and the fastfire.
Re: Zeroing a Burris fast fire ii
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Adamxdavis</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Im not even going to boresight it before i put a round downrange. </div></div>
Yeah, cause boresighting is totally for amateurs...
I have to admit, I have begun following this guy's posts just for the laughs.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Adamxdavis</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Im not even going to boresight it before i put a round downrange. </div></div>
Yeah, cause boresighting is totally for amateurs...
I have to admit, I have begun following this guy's posts just for the laughs.
Re: Zeroing a Burris fast fire ii
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SSSamurai</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Adamxdavis</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Im not even going to boresight it before i put a round downrange. </div></div>
Yeah, cause boresighting is totally for amateurs...
I have to admit, I have begun following this guy's posts just for the laughs. </div></div>
I'm sure he will just use it for offhand head shots at 1000m and with his skillset a half ass zero will be close enough.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SSSamurai</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Adamxdavis</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Im not even going to boresight it before i put a round downrange. </div></div>
Yeah, cause boresighting is totally for amateurs...
I have to admit, I have begun following this guy's posts just for the laughs. </div></div>
I'm sure he will just use it for offhand head shots at 1000m and with his skillset a half ass zero will be close enough.
Re: Zeroing a Burris fast fire ii
It appears Adamxdavis has set himself up for a rough sunday...
It appears Adamxdavis has set himself up for a rough sunday...
Re: Zeroing a Burris fast fire ii
if your not even going to boresight it I'd at least shot at 25 meters first. when I set up my rifle with a doctor sight, I had to start at 10 meters (I was lazy and didn't boresight either).
What everyone else is saying is the best. Just boresight the thing, then do a 50 meter/200 meter zero since your only using it at less than 50.
if your not even going to boresight it I'd at least shot at 25 meters first. when I set up my rifle with a doctor sight, I had to start at 10 meters (I was lazy and didn't boresight either).
What everyone else is saying is the best. Just boresight the thing, then do a 50 meter/200 meter zero since your only using it at less than 50.
Re: Zeroing a Burris fast fire ii
Make sure when you turn the adjustment screws you stop turning them when you feel a change in the tension that it takes to turn them. If you go past this you will delaminate the recticle and it will not hold zero. use shims if you need more adjustment past that point.
Make sure when you turn the adjustment screws you stop turning them when you feel a change in the tension that it takes to turn them. If you go past this you will delaminate the recticle and it will not hold zero. use shims if you need more adjustment past that point.
Re: Zeroing a Burris fast fire ii
When adjusting them, think...etch-a-sketch. It zero's pretty quick it's just not what you're probably used to.
I put mine on the left. I can use it without coming off of the rifle. Seems most guys put it at about 1:00. I had just as soon use it either way.
Keith
When adjusting them, think...etch-a-sketch. It zero's pretty quick it's just not what you're probably used to.
I put mine on the left. I can use it without coming off of the rifle. Seems most guys put it at about 1:00. I had just as soon use it either way.
Keith
Re: Zeroing a Burris fast fire ii
I made it using a ring and short piece of rail. Actually pretty easy. I think you can buy them now. I would take that route given a choice.
Adjustment was no big deal. I zero'ed it at 50yds.
Keith
I made it using a ring and short piece of rail. Actually pretty easy. I think you can buy them now. I would take that route given a choice.
Adjustment was no big deal. I zero'ed it at 50yds.
Keith
Re: Zeroing a Burris fast fire ii
I'm not going to lie. I had a hell of a time getting mine zero'd! The adjustments are very, VERY touchy! I went all over back and forth trying to get it actually on zero at 75yds never could get it. Eventually I sat back and thought about it, and frankly I was asking/hoping for way to much out of the optic.
It's a 3 MOA dot for the reticle and that's all I was getting, but I was treating it like a normal scope. After taking a cooling off period, (I was getting frustrated), and putting this into perspective I got it as close as I could @ 75yds and called it a day. Once I get this through my head I was pleased with what I was getting from it after that with normal shooting.
YMMV.
I'm not going to lie. I had a hell of a time getting mine zero'd! The adjustments are very, VERY touchy! I went all over back and forth trying to get it actually on zero at 75yds never could get it. Eventually I sat back and thought about it, and frankly I was asking/hoping for way to much out of the optic.
It's a 3 MOA dot for the reticle and that's all I was getting, but I was treating it like a normal scope. After taking a cooling off period, (I was getting frustrated), and putting this into perspective I got it as close as I could @ 75yds and called it a day. Once I get this through my head I was pleased with what I was getting from it after that with normal shooting.
YMMV.
Re: Zeroing a Burris fast fire ii
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BigDKC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm not going to lie. I had a hell of a time getting mine zero'd! <span style="font-weight: bold">The adjustments are very, VERY touchy!</span> I went all over back and forth trying to get it actually on zero at 75yds never could get it. Eventually I sat back and thought about it, and frankly I was asking/hoping for way to much out of the optic.
It's a 3 MOA dot for the reticle and that's all I was getting, but I was treating it like a normal scope. After taking a cooling off period, (I was getting frustrated), and putting this into perspective I got it as close as I could @ 75yds and called it a day. Once I get this through my head I was pleased with what I was getting from it after that with normal shooting.
YMMV. </div></div>
"The adjustments are very, VERY touchy!"
I agree. First thing I did was ditch that "calibrated wheel" that comes with it. It is the most sensitive adjustments I have messed with. Once you get your head wrapped around that it's not bad.
Keith
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BigDKC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm not going to lie. I had a hell of a time getting mine zero'd! <span style="font-weight: bold">The adjustments are very, VERY touchy!</span> I went all over back and forth trying to get it actually on zero at 75yds never could get it. Eventually I sat back and thought about it, and frankly I was asking/hoping for way to much out of the optic.
It's a 3 MOA dot for the reticle and that's all I was getting, but I was treating it like a normal scope. After taking a cooling off period, (I was getting frustrated), and putting this into perspective I got it as close as I could @ 75yds and called it a day. Once I get this through my head I was pleased with what I was getting from it after that with normal shooting.
YMMV. </div></div>
"The adjustments are very, VERY touchy!"
I agree. First thing I did was ditch that "calibrated wheel" that comes with it. It is the most sensitive adjustments I have messed with. Once you get your head wrapped around that it's not bad.
Keith
Re: Zeroing a Burris fast fire ii
Yeah, that wheel is worthless. Same goes with the Doctor sights. It's similar to zeroing the Unertl/MST-100 scopes. Just make small adjustments and walk the shots in there slowly.
Yeah, that wheel is worthless. Same goes with the Doctor sights. It's similar to zeroing the Unertl/MST-100 scopes. Just make small adjustments and walk the shots in there slowly.
Re: Zeroing a Burris fast fire ii
Also, realize that if you are mounting it on top of a scope that it is at least 2.5" above the bore. I found out the hard way that with it that far off the bore, that anything under 25 yards will shift POI a huge amount for every 3 or 4 feet you move the target and try to zero.
I was VERY frustrated to the point of taking the thing off my gun and was thinking I had a faulty one until someone on here mentioned the fact that inside of this distance the mechanical offset cause significant zeroing issues. So, long story short, don't zero it inside 25 yards, just zero it at 25 or 50 and figure out your holdover/under inside that range.
If you end up mounting it on the rail behind your scope as you said in the OP, this may not apply to you.
madd0c
Also, realize that if you are mounting it on top of a scope that it is at least 2.5" above the bore. I found out the hard way that with it that far off the bore, that anything under 25 yards will shift POI a huge amount for every 3 or 4 feet you move the target and try to zero.
I was VERY frustrated to the point of taking the thing off my gun and was thinking I had a faulty one until someone on here mentioned the fact that inside of this distance the mechanical offset cause significant zeroing issues. So, long story short, don't zero it inside 25 yards, just zero it at 25 or 50 and figure out your holdover/under inside that range.
If you end up mounting it on the rail behind your scope as you said in the OP, this may not apply to you.
madd0c
Re: Zeroing a Burris fast fire ii
I'm going to foresight it tomorrow. Seems like some people think the adjustment wheel is too much of a pain in the ass to even use. Think with a boresighter I can get on paper without using that weird ass wheel?
I'm going to foresight it tomorrow. Seems like some people think the adjustment wheel is too much of a pain in the ass to even use. Think with a boresighter I can get on paper without using that weird ass wheel?
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