Zeroing turrets on S&B Dual CC 1-8

[ace1400]

I'm having difficulty zeroing the turrets on my S&B dual CC 1-8. I have it sighted in, and then tried to loosened the turrets (unscrewed the two allen screws on each). I could not get the turrets to spin. The turrets are in the locked position (they have to be to unscrew the allen screws) and they are shown in the locked position during adjustment in the manual.

I did not force anything - in other scopes I have been able to easily turn the turrets once the set screws are loose, and these did not move at all. Any tips or ideas?

Thanks,

Ace

 

[dms416]

You will still have the tactile clicks with the screws loosened…use the same amount of effort as you would making regular adjustments

 

[Huskydriver]

After the screws are loose, unlock the turret and adjust...

Relock, then tighten the screws

 

[ace1400]

I will try this. The manual shows the turrets locked in the illustration and never mentions unlocking them to make the adjustment.

Thanks,

Ace

 

[dms416]

 

[DeathBeforeDismount]

Do they have a zero stop?

 

[ace1400]

Ok, things didn't go as I expected. I loosened the set screws and then tried to unlock the turret (unlocking the turrets blocks the set screws when unlocked, so the turret must be locked to get the Allen key into the set screws). As I tried to lift the unlocking ring, the whole turret came off the scope. So I rotated it to zero and put it back on. After tightening the set screws again, it seemed to work, though it was very mushy at first (no clicks at all) and after locking and unlocking the turret and turning it it seems the clicks are working again, but I don't seem to be getting the more tactile clicks at the full mil marks. I compared it to my offset red dot and it seems to still be in the same POI position.

Anyway, thanks for the help. I wish S&B had a better manual/instructions on how to do this. I have never had to think twice about this with previous Zeiss LRP, Kahles or TT scopes.

Ace

 

[Huskydriver]

Lol... Aight first of you don't have to back the set screws out part flush. Usually just a turn is okay....

Second how many set screws did you loosen ?

Third you will more than likely need to send it to Jerry to get your mtc clicks back

 

[madangler1]

On a side note, how do you like your scope? Eyebox? I am thinking about buying one for my DD5V3 .308 rifle.

Mind sending us a pic of the turrets? That sucks that happened.

 

[ace1400]

I must have taken the screws too far out to allow the turret to come off. It was certainly more than one turn but not past flush with the edge of the turret. I had loosened two as shown in the manual and it would not move, so I loosened all three and tried to unlock the turret and it came off. Bummer I need to send it back to get the MTC working. It seems to be working otherwise. Hopefully I have it set right other than the MTC.

I haven't spent too much time behind it as yet, but I like it so far. The locking exposed turrets are perfect for my purposes. I like the reticle (MDR - T6) very much. The illumination is excellent. There is a tiny bit of movement between the second focal plane dot and the first focal plane reticle when the dot only illumination is on and I am moving my head around the eye box. When illuminating the reticle this is not present. The illumination knob turns in one direction to illuminate a dot and the other direction to illuminate most of the reticle. Optical quality is excellent. The extra power (8x) is meaningful over my Kahles 1-6, my main point of reference in LPVO's. It does not seem to disappear as completely as the Kahles at low power (looking through it, you see the rim of the score more). On the CC setting, it is like a nice red dot. It has a flatter field than the Kahles - when panning the scope, there is less peripheral distortion. Again, these are very initial impressions.

The magnification ring is a little stiffer than I would prefer. I need to get a throw lever for it. I will probably use the offset red dot most of the time for near targets, as it's so much faster to cant the gun than adjust the through lever.

It's sitting on a KAC LRP (18" 556) rifle in an Audere mount. It's great for that application. I would probably go for something with more magnification for a 308. With this scope you pay a lot for the true 1x capability and using it with an offset red dot, I don't see myself using the CC mode much.

The turret is back on in it's correct position now, so nothing particular to see at this point.

Thanks again guys.

Ace

 

[dms416]

On a side note, how do you like your scope? Eyebox? I am thinking about buying one for my DD5V3 .308 rifle.

Given all this you REALLY want his opinion???

 

[ace1400]

Given all this you REALLY want his opinion???

Ha ha. . I probably wouldn't be interested in my opinion after reading the above.

Anyway, laugh all you wish. As long as no one tells my wife... She'd have a field day with this.

 

[Huskydriver]

Ha ha. . I probably wouldn't be interested in my opinion after reading the above.

Anyway, laugh all you wish. As long as no one tells my wife... She'd have a field day with this.

Lol good on you for being able to take the ribbing.

As you have figured out, that 3rd screw is how you take the whole turret off. If you play with it you can see how it works and you can probably get it back on there without sending it in.

Jerry at SB is great people if you need to tho and I bet the turnaround on that is really fast.

 

[dms416]

Lol good on you for being able to take the ribbing.

As you have figured out, that 3rd screw is how you take the whole turret off. If you play with it you can see how it works and you can probably get it back on there without sending it in.

Jerry at SB is great people if you need to tho and I bet the turnaround on that is really fast.

Concur
Hopefully a lesson was learned here

 

[Akfire907]

I will try this. The manual shows the turrets locked in the illustration and never mentions unlocking them to make the adjustment.

Thanks,

Ace

Ok, things didn't go as I expected. I loosened the set screws and then tried to unlock the turret (unlocking the turrets blocks the set screws when unlocked, so the turret must be locked to get the Allen key into the set screws). As I tried to lift the unlocking ring, the whole turret came off the scope. So I rotated it to zero and put it back on. After tightening the set screws again, it seemed to work, though it was very mushy at first (no clicks at all) and after locking and unlocking the turret and turning it it seems the clicks are working again, but I don't seem to be getting the more tactile clicks at the full mil marks. I compared it to my offset red dot and it seems to still be in the same POI position.

Anyway, thanks for the help. I wish S&B had a better manual/instructions on how to do this. I have never had to think twice about this with previous Zeiss LRP, Kahles or TT scopes.

Ace

I must have got a new manual then. Just got my Short Dot Dual CC, the manual clearly states with turrets in locked position, loosen the ”two” exposed screws, one turn, Unlock the turrets, adjust to zero, lock turret, tighten two screws. It even mentions the clicks will still be heard and felt, long as the screws are backed off one turn, will have no affect on reticle. Must have updated their manual. Just got it 1/10/24.

 

[Burdy]

I must have got a new manual then. Just got my Short Dot Dual CC, the manual clearly states with turrets in locked position, loosen the ”two” exposed screws, one turn, Unlock the turrets, adjust to zero, lock turret, tighten two screws. It even mentions the clicks will still be heard and felt, long as the screws are backed off one turn, will have no affect on reticle. Must have updated their manual. Just got it 1/10/24.

I don't think its possible to loosen the screws with the turret locked as the screw head is partially covered and you cannot get your tool in there. At least that was my experience. I did unlock the turret, removed the two screws (to flush against the turret housing I must admit) and then rotate to zero and retighten.
I have no issue with any of the process but for the love of God I wish you still didn't hear and feel the clicks when resetting the zero. It's a real act of faith, especially if you are not in a position to re-check zero afterward.

 

[dms416]

I don't think its possible to loosen the screws with the turret locked as the screw head is partially covered and you cannot get your tool in there. At least that was my experience.

Uh...no. Go look at the damn scope

When the collar is DOWN...the turret is Locked (with the red letters "LOCKED" exposed) and the screws are exposed.
When the collar is UP....the red letters are covered along with the screws, and the turret can move as the adjustment hashmarks are exposed.


Re: zeroing...it's not fucking rocket surgery...but people mis-remembering how it's done without looking doesn't help either.

 

[Burdy]

Uh...no. Go look at the damn scope

When the collar is DOWN...the turret is Locked (with the red letters "LOCKED" exposed) and the screws are exposed.
When the collar is UP....the red letters are covered along with the screws, and the turret can move as the adjustment hashmarks are exposed.


Re: zeroing...it's not fucking rocket surgery...but people mis-remembering how it's done without looking doesn't help either.

You are 100% correct. I have no idea how I screwed that up in my head. Now I think the confusion came from me thinking originally that the manual told me to unlock them before removing the screws and I was thinking that's not going to work.

Anyways, you are right. I am wrong.

 

[dms416]

You are 100% correct. I have no idea how I screwed that up in my head. Now I think the confusion came from me thinking originally that the manual told me to unlock them before removing the screws and I was thinking that's not going to work.

Anyways, you are right. I am wrong.

I only know because I've had mine on probably 20 different guns and thats a lot of re-zeroing.

Also, the screws can't come completely out of the turret. I had a bad screw (from the beginning, not stripped by me). I thought I could get a new screw but had to send the whole scope in to replace the entire turret...because my wear marks and witness lines were gone.

 

[Burdy]

I only know because I've had mine on probably 20 different guns and thats a lot of re-zeroing.

Also, the screws can't come completely out of the turret. I had a bad screw (from the beginning, not stripped by me). I thought I could get a new screw but had to send the whole scope in to replace the entire turret...because my wear marks and witness lines were gone.

Ok, so I knew I wasn't completely losing my mind because I remember my manual not jiving with the proper way to do it. Here is why...this is my manual:

 

[dms416]

Ok, so I knew I wasn't completely losing my mind because I remember my manual not jiving with the proper way to do it. Here is why...this is my manual:
View attachment 8320526

They need to swap those steps in that sentence as you do set back to zero in the “unlocked” position, but not before the set screws are loose. Right words technically but wrong order.


Also…who reads the manual? Nerd!

 

[Burdy]

Also…who reads the manual? Nerd!

Oh that's nothing...

 

[dms416]

The mildot should be .20 not .25, no? The old 1/4 mil Army dots were oblong.

ETA
Well fuck

https://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/datasheet-467x660.png

However we now know that the manual isn’t perfect so now I don’t know what to think