Burris XTR3i 3-18
Illuminated SCR-2 mil reticle
Mil adjustments
Used in 1 PRS 22 match, otherwise only shot from the bench. Looks basically new other than a little residue left behind where I had coban wrap on it (show in picture).
$850 shipped, open to offers including trades.

Marking this as sold, but I just changed my mind and decided to put it on another rifle.

308-420 FC 1x FGMM 185G from a bolt gun $110 shipped ConUS



SOLD6.5g 1x from an AR. Not beat up but it's not as clean as bolt brass.
147-PPU large rifle $40 shipped
364- Hornady small rifle $115 shipped

$135 for it all



300wm new primed pulled down(from what I can tell) from American Reloading.


Sig 21 obvious annealing 50ct. $35 shipped

Sig no year 30ct $20 shipped

Sig 20 crimp marks on neck 19ct $15 shipped

Hornady 117ct little beat up but works fine if ran through a die to clean up the neck. $40 shipped

$90 shipped for all 300wm

Cops shot a tranny who had called them to avoid being kidnapped.

We all know of the cops doing bad things and killing people. Does this count because the person was trans? Or is it justified as a matter of hastening the meeting of the Tranny with God. Who is doing a favor for whom?

I currently have a 22" MTU V22 I picked up used here on RFC. It shoots great and has served me well but, it just doesn't balance as well as I'd like in my MDT chassis. I have all the internal and external weights attached to my chassis and it just barely balances forward of the magwell.

My question is, what would you do? Would you pull the MTU and have a custom (longer & heavier) barrel spun up or pick up a new barreled action from DI or Nedved precision?

If I rebarrel I'm looking at $1175+tax/ship from DI precision for a 25" 1.25" Straight MullerWorks 13 Twist. I have no clue what my old barrel would be worth? Are there better or equally as good options for less $$?

If I buy new from DI Precision or Nedved I'll upgrade to the 360 action and sell my current V22 barreled action. It's $2800+tax/ship for the DI build with the same 25" MullerWorks barrel or $2290+tax/ship with a 24" Bartlein (I assume) 1.2" straight.

Will the 24" 1.2"be enough to balance an MDT ACC elite with a honking Razor G3 on top? I'd love to shed some of the internal/external weights and run a lighter set-up that still balances. It adds ~1.4 lbs and moves it's own center of balance (not the rifle itself) forward 2". The 25" 1.25" straight add yet another pound and another 0.5" further forward.

Is the $510 price difference between DI and Nedved worth it? What am I really gaining other than the choice of a longer/heavier barrel?

22" MTU ~6.0 lbs

24" 1.2" Straight ~7.4 lbs

25" 1.25" Straight ~8.4 lbs

Have (4) new in box Triggertech Diamond 2 stage. No bolt release, RH, rem 700 clone, Pro curved. Sold

Sirhr

Found these in the random parts bin I am trying to organize. I think these are extensions for an atlas bipod, but honestly don't remember. I don't have one to test fit with anymore. Comes with hawk hill feet. ~6 - 6.5" extensions it seems.

SOLD $85 shipped.

Brand new, never used.

$35 shipped ALL SOLD
.290 (6.5 CM) SOLD

Would trade for 1 for 1 for a .287 neck/shoulder bushing in good shape.

Has some signs of use, took it as part of a rifle trade.
SOLD $70 shipped.

$55 shipped

3.5" riser

$150

Selling one: Leupold Mark4 6-24 with a PR3 reticle. Leupold# 183824. Brand new. Still in the wrapper. 1000$ shipped conus obo.

Bought it used and I only shot it off bipod 250-300 rds. Sold with folder and accessories as pictured. No barrel and the factory box is included.

$3900 shipped from individual.
Apple Pay Venmo Zelle pp ff no comments

Started life as a stock CZ 457 MTR in .22LR, Area 419 20" Lilja match grade barrel, stock milled flat to accept Area 419 weighted arca rail, L3i billet bottom metal, L3i billet 13 round magazines, Area 419 30 MOA rail and bolt knob. This rifle has less that 500 rounds on it and shoots 1/2 MOA @ 50 yards consistently, asking $1,250 shipped from individual to your FFL. Rifle as it sits weighs just under 13 pounds with optic.

Note: Area 419 Lilja 20" barrel is threaded with a blended thread protector....it is thread 1/2x28

Bushnell Match Pro ED scope with rings could be included for an additional $750.00.

Hello all, I have been in the process of researching a build for a new long range hunting rifle for a long time now and after too much contemplation I finally "pulled the trigger". It is a Remington 700 Action that I had a Bartlen 1:8 twist barrel chambered in 7MMX300 Win Mag. The barrel is finished at 26" + the break. I already had the MPA Ultra Lite chassis for it and had a Triggertech trigger installed. The Action was Blueprinted and if you can call it Truing for a Rem 700 it was. The break was timed but the Trigger/Bolt was not.

I am having some problems now though after being incredibly pleased with my initial shooting of right around 0.446" at 100 yards for a 6 round group. ( I load 6 so that I can have a 5 round group with a true called flyer if needed. This one was not needed so I just made the hole a little bit bigger. This was shot during the initial barrel break in and preliminary load development.



The smith that built this rifle uses a different type and manufacturer of brass. (Old Remington I believe- I could not tell you the exact details, but not anything I can get.

It is however a reamer for 300 Win Mag necked down to 7MM.

After having good luck with Lapua 300 Win Mag brass in a true 300 Win Mag I decided to use that.

I am now however thinking that due to the neck thickness of Lapua brass that I may need neck turn this. I have never neck turned before- But I have researched it and have everything I need with the exception of a 7mm Mandrel which is now set to arrive tomorrow.

If you all could weigh it if you think Neck turning is indeed going to help provide a solution and also any input on how/when to do that would be incredibly appreciated.

With little prep the Lapua Virgin Brass shoots well. I am getting some flattened primers but no other signs of pressure except for a heavy bolt lift that is different then what I have experienced as a pressure sign on other guns in previous loads. It is only that last 10 Degrees or so of bolt lift that is at all heavy like it just needs to make that final "snap into place". That's why I made the comment about also possibly needing to have the firing pin/bolt timed? Sorry for my ignorance- But I still have much to learn and want to soak up as much knowledge from the experienced users on here as possible.


The Virgin brass that requires extra effort for that last 10 or so degrees is only on the higher end of my load data.

The real issue was once I went to shoot my now fire formed brass. I have done so twice so far. My last trip to the range yesterday I shot some additional Virgin Brass to continue to work up my stock pile of fire formed brass while also shooting what I was hoping would be working towards my final load development for this rifle. I had trimmed the brass as it had now been fired twice and per the data was needed, but it was properly chamfered and deburred. After experiencing the issue I also closely examined for any "lip" from the trimming process which was not present.

Even though I was still .003 off the lands this now 2X fired brass was somewhat difficult to chamber like what you would experience with a load that was jammed into the lands. No true force was needed, but it was clear that operation was not smooth or proper. Once fired I was getting all "heavy bolt lifts" mostly for that same last 10 degrees.

When I got back to the range I took a few of these pieces of brass to see if my 7mm Berer EOL Elite Hunters would fit by hand back into the fired and not yet re-sized brass. even with what limited force I could give it with my hand I could not get the correct projectile to fit into the case neck past the rear taper where the true bullet diameter of .284 is. (same type/brand/weight/lot bullet that was shot only an hour earlier)

When measuring the inside diameter of the neck with just my calipers I am getting between .2795 and .2815. This does not seem right to me as the bullet that was loaded yesterday morning into this brass was .284 and shot that afternoon before these measurements were taken.
This leads me to believe that the neck on my brass is to thick for my chamber- Is this an accurate assumption?

When I measure with a ball micrometer the neck wall thickness of the brass is reads at different locations on different 2x fired brass of 0.01565" - 0.01605". I did tumble the brass prior to these readings to remove the carbon which I believed would affect these measurements. After seeing the discrepancies I believe my neck tension/consistency would benefit from turning the neck regardless of whether or not this thickness was too great for my chamber.



My real questions are as follows-

Do you believe turning the necks will help/solve this issue of the 10 degrees of heavy bolt lift?
Assuming I will be turning these necks how much do I take off? My original thoughts (though I still need to measure more cases) would be based off the .284 7mm Diameter and subtract narrowest fire formed neck inside diameter IE .2795. Then this measurement of .0045" would be divided by 2 since I would be trimming the neck 360 degrees and the measurement needed is a diameter. So that would mean .00225" Minimum just to get to .284. But would I want to take off a little bit more than the bare minimum? Subtracting .002225 would give me a new neck thickness of .0134" Which I understand to still be a fairly "healthy" neck thickness. Would I be better off going ahead and trimming everything down to and even .013" or even less to prevent this from happening once additional firings of this brass occur? Maybe .0125" for my target neck wall thickness?
It is my understanding that is best to turn the necks just after resizing- Is that accurate?
Finally- Based on what I have described- Do you think turning the necks is all that is needed- Or is there anything that stood out to anyone that may mean that I do still need to get the bolt timed?

Bought used less than 50rds and I never shot it. Great condition one small mark on left side of upper.

Barrel is a 20in 308ss

$sold upper
$450 barrel
Price shipped. Apple Pay ppff Zelle Venmo

The submachine guns 23 and 25 (originally model 48a/b) and the Sa 24 and Sa 26 (popularly also called pump) were the main infantry weapons of the Czechoslovak Army from 1948 to 1958. They use a 9 mm Luger cartridge (Sa 23 and Sa 25) and a 7.62 × 25 mm Tokarev cartridge (Sa 24 and Sa 26) and are equipped with a dynamic (unlocked) slide. They can fire single shots or bursts.


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1) Full custom 2011 Para 40 cal. Integrated comp barrel, ramped barrel, one extended mag, cmore red dot sit frame mounted, kart barrel (custom barrel for sure), flat face trigger. I haven’t shot this for years, last time I took it out, shot excellent but I’d get a new spring for magazine. I will include any 40cal ammo if I can find it. $999.99



2) FI industries 380 auto volt mustang clone, no issues, will include a few hundred rounds of ammo. $499.99



3) NIB browning high power. This was made in the 1980s. It is the rare target model with adjustable sites. It’s NEVER fired. Includes everything from factory. Will include 5 mags with it. $1499.99



4) High standard Model A. All factory, no issues, has some wear and includes 1 oem magazine. $399.99

Up for sale is a 16-inch 6.5 Grendel AR-15, fully built with high-end components and never fired—ready to go right out of the gate.


• Receiver Set: SMOS builder set, finished in Bazooka Green


• Stock & Buffer System: Magpul stock with A5 system throughout for enhanced recoil management


• Barrel: 16-inch stainless steel Ballistic Advantage barrel, optimized for precision shooting


• Handguard: 13.65-inch SMOS rail for a streamlined, lightweight setup


• Bolt Carrier Group: High-quality, built for reliability in 6.5 Grendel


• Accessories: Comes with mags included


never been shot.


Price: $1,500 OBO

Like new in excellent condition Sako TRG 42 .338 Lapua Magnum

Documented round count of 173

No box or manual. Rifle ships with the following accessories and current pricing (EuroOptic)
- Talley Sako TRG 28 MOA optic rail - $69.95
- Sako TRG 42 muzzle brake - $289.99
- Sako TRG 42 bipod - $439.99
- 3 x Sako TRG 42 five round magazines - (x 2 =$359.98)

Rifle will ship from my local FFL to yours

$3,400 shipped OBO.

Rifle is on consignment at local FFL and not in a hurry to sell. I won't separate accessories from the rifle at this time nor accepting trades. All offers considered.

Rifle and accessories will ship in a hard side gun case for protection.

USPS money orders or discreet electronic forms of payment accepted.

IM/email for any questions you might have.

Selling off my Savage F/TR in 223

this is a single shot rifle that does an excellent job in F/TR competitions.

Comes with an upgraded Jewel Trigger and adjustable cheek piece.

30" Factory Barrel
1:7 twist

I believe I might still have the load data if interested, this hasn't been shot in a number of years.

$1200 1000 as a package plus shipping to you FFL. Unless picked up in Northeast Ohio by licensed concealed carry holder.

Or rifle by itself 700 plus shipping

Sold

Vortex Impact 4000 new in box, never removed from it's box. Included a used Magnetospeed Sporter chronograph. $1400 shipped PayPal F&F

Scope is in excellent condition with very little use. Comes in it's original box with all the original paperwork, and parts. It also comes with Vortex Defender flip up scope caps, and an American Defense ADM Recon Uni-mount. PayPal F&F $2250, shipped.

So a couple of guys asked me about doing a group buy on M40A1 pattern barrels. Most guys if they want one they just order one.

So I'll throw it out there to see if there is any interest in a group buy and my thoughts on the two options.

The two options are but I only want to settle on one of each.

First is the contour....My 40a1 spec build I did the barrel contour to the A1 prints. Which is a .875" muzzle +/-.010". Breech length is 4" at 1.2" diameter.

I was given an original A1 barrel by Mr. Land. It was a used take off. If I recall correctly the muzzle is around .900". I'll double check tonight when I get home.

So that's the first question is the muzzle diameter. What would you guys want? .875" or .900".

2nd question.... number of grooves for rifling? Prints for all the A1 thru A3 barrels called out 4 groove, or 5 (which most likely means 5R but they never put the "R" on the prints. They still do that with the 6.5CM barrels and 300 and 338 Norma but the spec is 5R) or 6.

I'd prefer to do the 5R but give me your thoughts.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels

I did mine with the 5R