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Remember that time the FBI hired a serial killer as a paid informant ?yeah that was great !




And I’m sure they had “no idea “
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SOLD Eotech G33STS

Bought for a project but it never happened, literally never been taken out of the box other then the serial number photo.

$350 shipped, Buyer pays G&S fee through paypal or Venmo

Only reply here or via DM, do not reply to any emails as it's someone trying to scam you.

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SOLD Nightforce 4-20 milxt ATACR

Thinning things down. That being said, No Trades. For sale, not on sale.
4-20 milxt FFP illuminated 34mm. Excellent shape including glass. Comes with box, sunshade and whatever paperworks in there. The last pic shows the reason for the reflection in the glass .
Nope, still no trades , $2470 shipped

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SOLD 6.5 AR10 w/great parts

$SOLD shipped. Trade for Mark5 5-25 or similar optic
AERO upper and lower
24” McGowan barrel
Odin Works adj has block
ODIN WORKS BCG or JP LMOS BCG (buyers choice)
JP H2 Silent Capture
Trigger Tech Diamond trigger
Phase5 ambi bolt release
Ambi safety
Ambi charging handle
Sgt or Arms 17” ARCA hand guard
Magpul PRS Lite stock
MK Mach grip
MDT Comp Muzzle Brake

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Opinions ?

Opinions ? on the Pic.
just need an eye from a different perspective. Steel NAS3 cases are a big zero for me on any load info . ShellShok is throwing these case out there, and their new design is about as foreign to hand loaders as Ellen DeGeneres is to taking Penis .

NAS3, If over hot load, you have no brass flow on bolt face like the normal Brass that scream you should start thinking of 'stop' .
Primer are SR 450 CCI . The Bolt is factory Rem. with the normal larger than necessary firing pin hole on face .
When seating Primers into case . They are sliding into the primer pockets, but with a lot of friction, you can feel it . So ( my thought ) the Primers are seated tighter than the normal Brass case pockets.

I been moving powder load up 2/10 grain at a time across the Garmin chrony . At this moment I have No hard bolt handle lift, or sticky case wall in chamber after firing
But THIS ---> the Load I am firing out the NAS3 case is already ' far past' were I would ever take this Load in a Brass Case .

my thinking .. Normally if your fucking doing stupid . You will pierce/pop the Primers with Brass on stupid hot loads . But with these Steel cases, larger internal volume, with a base design that is totally foreign to me . I would hope ? , that blow primers would happen long before a Catastrophic Case Failure happens with theses steel cases.

....thanks
.
mainly looking at the 2 worst, on L-side .

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New Suppressor

Been out of the game a few years and thinking about getting back into it. I currently have 2 tbac ultra 7 cans and a kgm 6.5 and I'm thinking about adding a braked can to the mix. I don't have an issue with losing the target during recoil, my prs rifles do move but very little. My 7ss does occasionally kick me completely off target.

What's the consensus for top cans? I see a lot of people bragging about the Abel cans and I see tbac still has a huge wait list for cans. This can will probably go between my 7ss and probably the ar10 I'm building

SOLD WTS ZCO527 MPCT2x 10mil NLE with extras

Looking to sell my ZCO527 MPCT2x 10mil NLE, with throw lever, sun shade, and Tenebraex lense covers.

Also will come with Spuhr SP-6002M 0moa mount with diving board, Spuhr bubble level, SG pulse mount

Can FaceTime, phone call, whatever needed to assist with sale.

4000 and includes shipping in cont US insured. Not interested in trades at this time.

Can also meet at the GAP Grind in person
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Gas Gun Break In

I bought a 22” Seekins DMR in 6 ARC and will start shooting this week. I want as much accuracy as possible out of it so I’m planning on doing barrel break in like a bolt gun since I’ll be shooting out to 1000. I know everyone has an opinion about it and if it’s worth it or if it does anything but it can’t hurt. Any recommendations on best practices with gas gun accuracy in mind? About how many rounds until I should care about how it groups? I sent them an email but I don’t think Seekins recommends anything specific for their barrels.

Colorado residents......great hiking areas..?

Going to see my daughter week of the 16th in November. She's stationed out there and we plan to sniff around the Boulder area, maybe south to the "Springs". Visited the Garden of the Gods back in April. Last visit we got in 2 nice hikes. Other was in Castle Rock park where I had a very close encounter with a rattle snake. This time I really want to get closer to the Rockies and try to take in some great views and be able to say that I did hike in the Rockies!

I'm sure it will be cold and snow may shut things down, but we're gonna give it our best shot. I know many despise the politics of some states, but from what I did see last visit, Colorado is beautiful, unlike this suckhole city and state I live in. We are planning to be just outside the Denver area, west and maybe south by 30 - 40 miles. So I ask for testimony as to any great hiking I should put on the list. Thank you!
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How do you know if bedding is needed?

Hey fellow hiders,

TLDR:

Torquing and loosening action screws causes action to shift up and down. Stock has aluminum bedding block but maybe its not making a perfect mate.

FULL STORY:

I've got a rifle that quite frankly I can't seem to get shooting to my liking and struggles with consistency. It's a cheap rifle to start with, so I'm not expecting half inch groups all the time or smaller. It's a howa mini in 6.5 grendel with a bell and Carlson stock.

I chose this stock because I have another howa mini with a boyds stock that did not come with an aluminum bedding block so that one for sure needed to be bedded.

I did not want to go through all that again so I got a stock with a bedding block in it hoping that would be the easy button. I've thrown many different bullets, primers, and powders.

The problem is, I'll get a decent group once while doing a ladder and when I load that charge again to verify, it's nowhere near the initial result. I cannot repeat results when something looks good. Throughout many strings, I've had very low ESs & SDs on multiple occasions but never decent groups. Or as said previously, if I see a good group, it will not repeat it.

As I torque down or loosen the action screws, the whole thing starts to shift up or down. I've tried holding it pressed up against the stock, believing that the entire flat bottom of the action is mated up perfectly along the length of the bedding block. So it should not move since there is technically no pivot point, right? The entire length of the action bottom is pressed up against the bedding block.

Well maybe I'm starting to think I'm wrong and that's not the case. If there was a high point somewhere in between, it would cause the action to pivot. That would create a point of stress no? Am I onto something? Is there another way to diagnose if the action is stressed in the stock? Let me know yalls thoughts.

Below is a list of components I've thrown at it.

Virgin Starline
1x Starline

CCI 450
RUAG primers

BLC2
TAC
Benchmark
Varget

123 SST
130 AR Hybrids
107 SMK
107 TMK
120 Match Burner
120 AMAX

SOLD 6 Dasher Dies - Redding

I have an extra set of Redding dies for 6 Dasher. One is the Competition seating die and the other is Type S bushing sizing die. The sizing die does come with .266 bushing.

Asking $150 shipped for both.

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Adams Drops Out

“Despite all we’ve achieved, I cannot continue my re-election campaign,” Adams says in the video. “The constant media speculation about my future and the campaign finance board’s decision to withhold millions of dollars have undermined my ability to raise the funds needed for a serious campaign.”

Adams told New Yorkers that he hopes they “will see that despite the headlines and the innuendo, I always put you before me.” He also urged whoever wins the race to “continue the work we started, lowering the cost of living, investing in quality of life and staying laser-focused on reducing crime and disorder through investments in policing, mental health, substance abuse care, homelessness services and community-based initiatives.”

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Reticle Design and our Disagreements

I, like many, have been frustrated with most reticle designs in the past. Having started to design one of my own reticles, I certainly can understand the difficulty in pleasing every person and every unique situation. However, it was during the first parts of this ongoing design phase that I realized our differences are not typically about how the reticle is built itself, but rather how it fits our purpose and use.

There are some pretty standard reticle design elements that we all like to see. We may disagree on .25 vs .20 mil hashes, but we don't typically disagree that there should be neat linear spacing in our subtensions. Some of us prefer dots, some crosshairs, and maybe some open, but we all want an aiming point that is large enough to clearly see, but small enough to be precise.

When we think about designing a reticle, in my mind there are 3 broad categories that should define how this should be accomplished. This post is not merely my thoughts and meanderings but I am genuinely interested if I am on track or not, so hear me out.

These 3 categories are:
Dial
Hold
Hybrid

The problem with creating a reticle for everyone, is no one knows how you shoot, what your use case or situation is, along with various other personal preferences. If we break down these three categories, we can really start to fine tune our reticle to the end user. Just knowing which category our end user falls into helps to greatly narrow our reticle design.

Dial: In this use case our end user will primarily use the turrets to adjust for elevation. This is important, because we can put all of our information on our X axis and the middle/top of our Y axis and we can eliminate unnecessary holds and information that will obstruct our sight picture. A example would be something like the ZCO MPCT 1X reticle.

Hold: In this use case we don't plan on touching the turrets, so we need turret level information placed inside our sight picture at all areas up and down the x/y axis. This would include wind grids or dots. An example of this type of reticle would be something like a Horus H59 or a S&B gr2id reticle.

Hybrid: Here we want to do a little of both, but this represents a faster more dynamic reticle with more course values in the sight picture. The priority is on speed, but the option for precision exists, via dialing, if given the time. This would be your DMR style reticles. An example here would be your NF FC-DMX or your EOTECH SR5 style reticles, or, God rest it's soul...the LRHS3 "Gap" reticle.

Both the dial and Hold reticles are fairly straight forward, and in those we argue about subtension and line sizing, the crowding around our center dot or crosshair, how open the top half of the Y axis is etc. But we mostly agree those layouts follow a particular standard or pattern.

It is the Hybrid category that I believe gives us the most fits so I would like to focus my own personal thoughts on that area and get a gauge on how others feel.

For me, a hybrid reticle would be able to fill the following roles: Self-Defense, Dynamic Competitions (DMR, Gas Gun Matches, Run and Guns, etc) and Hunting.
  1. I want a reticle that is usable at the bottom end of the mag range, even if that aiming point is a course "circle" reference. This will aid in low mag fast stages in competition and low light moving shots on game. This can also be accomplished via bright and sufficient illumination.
  2. I want wind holds on the lower left and right sides of the x/y axis.
  3. I want my Y-axis clearly numbered (more on that in a minute).
  4. Personally, my preferred center dot size (if we are not using a crosshair) would be .2 MIL. I have found .25 to work just fine, but preferred it to be a little finer and have found .16 to be great for precision, but a little lacking on speed.
  5. I want exactly .5 mil space around my center/dot or crosshair. At minimum I would need .25 as I feel like the .20 spacing on something like the NF MIL-XT is too tight for the type of work these "hybrid" optics are meant for.
  6. On the Y-Axis, I want no less than .5 mil subtensions. I have found that I even like whole, 1 mil subtensions here. If I want more precision, I will dial, but my brain splits the .5's into .25 very easily and can even "quarter-up" a whole mil spread under pressure with no problem. Spreads of .25 or .20 here tends to scramble my brain under pressure as I look to count the hashes.
  7. In reference to point #3, I prefer the numbers on the vertical to be as tight as possible to the Y-axis, left side preferred (all else being equal we will hold against the spin more often and this pushes the number out of the sight picture). When the vertical is numbered in tree fashion, out beside the wind dots, my eye hunts back and forth to ensure I am holding properly. Numbers along the vertical eliminate this issue.
  8. One final thing I would like to see in Hybrid optics is wind dots throughout the entire x-axis range instead of in a tree pattern. I have had a manufacture ask, "Why do you need 5 mils of wind holds at 1.5 mils of elevation?" The answer to that is simple. In a DMR match with known distances where your targets are at 525, 650, 700 and 900, I like to dial for the 525 and hold the rest.
These above are simply my preferences, but I would like to hear what others think, specifically as it pertains to reticles in these hybrid optics that run anywhere from the LPVO to the "MPVO" physical design. My preferences assume an exposed and locking elevation turret with a maximum bottom end of 4x and a maximum top end of 16x. What say you?